Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1979 - Taillights Only Stays On With Key Inside?
Feb 5, 2015
my 79 Bronco tail lights only are stuck on with the key on? the brake lights and blinkers and headlights work fine and (all the running lights) work fine when turned on, but with all the switches off and key on only my tail light running lights stay on?
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I discovered today that I have no brake lights on my '02 Excursion. The center brake light works fine, but the two in the taillights don't come on. Stopped and bought new bulbs on the way home and replaced both, but the ones I pulled out were not blown. Checked the fuse - OK. Taillights and turn signals both work fine.
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I have a 1979 f-250 4x4 with a 351m. The problem I am having is my starter keeps running after the truck starts and also after I shut off the key. I didn't get the battery unhooked in time today and it completely melted the lug off on the solenoid, but the other wires were barley warm. What could be causing this problem? The battery is new, the cables are new and the Sol. was new. Maybe the switch or the starter?
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My truck just came out of the shop. Was in for spark plug change. My parking sensor button is lighted up with OFF. I tried pressing it but it stays in OFF and no beeping occurring when in reverse and there are objects behind me. What could it be? Fuse?
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I pulled my CD player and put it back in and now my air bag light won't go out when it self tests. It blinks for a while then stays on steady. What's up with that -- I thought I was having enough problems with the CD player as it was?
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Why the parking brake light in my dash stays on, 2004 F150. Fluid in master cylinder is full, has no signs of leaks anywhere.
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I have a 2004 250 SD. Supercab. Took out the bench and replaced with captains or buckets, whatever you want to call them. Perfect fit. The new seats have their own seat belts built in to them. The old ones, were mounted to the floor and roof. Now the air bag light blinks for a fairly long time, then stays on! What? OK, So, what do I NOT know about this project? I did have to make the wires longer in order to reconnect the plugs. Not a problem, I am an electrician. Trouble shooting is ok, when you know where to start.
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What the code "32" means for the airbag? Lately my airbag light on the dash will blink 3-2 for several cycles then stays on solid til I shut down the truck.
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My father in-law gave us a 1996 explorer AWD with a 5.0 for my son who is 16. A couple of weeks later he's out learning with my wife and a very strong electrical smell took over the cabin. They came right home and when I got in I found all of the gauges not working. The instrument lights work, blinkers work, but all gauges do nothing. Pulled cluster and wires look O.K. behind it from what I can see. They saw no smoke, just smell, fuses look O.K.. What could cook on this vehicle that would wipe out just the gauges?
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Just this evening I turned off my car (2000 Toyota Corolla), went inside and then came back out an hour or so later to discover that my radio, clock, and cigarette lighter still had power. Without the key in the ignition, I'm still able to listen to the radio, for example. This was never the case before. I had the battery replaced five days ago, but I doubt that makes a difference.... How I can fix this so that my battery doesn't drain.
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I am looking for a wiring diagram for that taillights for a 1999 f350 pickup. I am working on a friends truck that doesnt have any taillights and I would like to have a diagram in hand before I get started on it.
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I have a 2012 Prius 3 and just noticed yesterday that I have some condensation on the inside of my Taillights. It's been raining and cold around here lately but I park my car in the garage. You could see it in the pics below....
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Since the first time I saw the OEM LED taillights I knew I wanted them and I knew I didn't want that turn signal glitch when braking. There is, of course, the option to wire the LED tails the OEM "proper" way, but I wasn't interested in running multiple wires from front to back so I came up with another way.
All of the wiring to make these work without error* (This method will make the inner LEDs work as brake and Running lights, opposed to just running lights) is confined to the hatch and outer taillight areas.
The main thing that I knew I had to avoid was using the current Pin 1 wire to power the Pin 3 turn signals. For some reason unknown to me the Pin 1 wire wants to be a brake light even after the brake light coding is removed from the adaption channels relating to the pin out. So if that wire wants to be a brake light so badly then that's what I would let it be.
The idea behind the wiring is to use the power from the running light on each side of the hatch to power the turn signal on that respective side (hatch and outer amber signals) and then re-power the inner running light by using a jumper from the outer taillight power.
Now some illustrations to clear that mess up:
The top portion of the picture shows the stock configuration and then the modifications take place in the lower section
And here is a quick video showing that the LED Tails are working. (When brakes are applied the turn signals don't flicker...) [URL] .....
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I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
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Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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Looking for a source for a wiring diagram for the 2003/4 f350 instrument cluster, specifically the wiring/connectors to the gauges? A link to a PDF file would be nice. I would like to try and disconnect the PCM control to the transmission temperature and engine temperature and drive the gauges from my own sensors to bypass the non-linear behavior that ford decided was in our best interest. I am NOT interested in installing any more gauges, just want to control the ones already present with my own signals. It is possible that these gauges are all addressable devices on a common bus, instead of individual controls.
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Just bought an 04 Super duty with the factory plug 7pin and 4 pin plug. Checked the fuses and finally tracked down the 2 relays under the hood but can't seem to find anything wrong. Everything on the trailer works except for the running lights. Is there another fuse or something I have missed? Trailer works fine on my buddies Duramax and worked fine on my old 97.
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Im installing a set of 04 lariat seats into a 00 truck. I need to know how to hook up the heat. The power part is no problem. What I thought was right which was a separate constant 12v and a switched 12v for the module and ground apparently isnt right. If somebody could ohm out their harness on a 01 truck that would be great. As I have it right now the light on the switch comes on but almost instantly turns off.
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Looking for a wiring diagram for a F-150 XLT LARIAT 5.8L 4BBL, all the books I have looked at show the wiring for this year with fuel injection and this truck came with a 351W with a Holley 600 4BBL, I have a few wire's in the engine compartment that melted away all the insulation, they are located close to where the harness passes the firewall before the ignition module. Is this a common problem on old models ?. Need a clear copy of the correct diagram for a f-150 1987 with carburetor, how I can get a copy so I can fix this problem before it gets worse.
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