Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1979 F250 Starter Keeps Running
Jul 4, 2005
I have a 1979 f-250 4x4 with a 351m. The problem I am having is my starter keeps running after the truck starts and also after I shut off the key. I didn't get the battery unhooked in time today and it completely melted the lug off on the solenoid, but the other wires were barley warm. What could be causing this problem? The battery is new, the cables are new and the Sol. was new. Maybe the switch or the starter?
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2002 Ford F250 V10 Auto... When I put the transmission into reverse, the starter kicks in...
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my 79 Bronco tail lights only are stuck on with the key on? the brake lights and blinkers and headlights work fine and (all the running lights) work fine when turned on, but with all the switches off and key on only my tail light running lights stay on?
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F250 6.8L .. So Ive read a lot of posts about intermittent cruise control issues. I understand that the most common failure is the brake switch on the master cylinder. My concern is that I am unable to run the cruise control self test I keep reading about. Does this test not work on my model year. I have tried even when the cruise control is working and still the cc light does no come on.
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I have a 2000 Ford F250 lariat 7.3 .... This vehicle has an aftermarket double din stereo pillar gauges for Pyro meter and transmission temp and has also had a snowplow attached but since re moved since I purchased it. It also has H ID headlights, which are run by the passenger side headlight connection.
The problem I'm having is that whenever I turn on the parking lights it is blowing the number eight fuse under the hood. Which is giving me no dash lights running lights parking lights or taillights. Initially the fuse would last for a few minutes and then burn out. I should also add that the trailer wiring harness doesn't work either and the driver side headlight will work sporadically.
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Just bought an 04 Super duty with the factory plug 7pin and 4 pin plug. Checked the fuses and finally tracked down the 2 relays under the hood but can't seem to find anything wrong. Everything on the trailer works except for the running lights. Is there another fuse or something I have missed? Trailer works fine on my buddies Duramax and worked fine on my old 97.
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I just replaced my starter solenoid and I'm getting nothing. When 12 volts are applied directly from the battery to the solenoid, the engine wants to turn (granted my batteries are weak) however when I turn the key to start, after waiting for the "wait to start" light to go off and hearing the glow plug click, I turn the key and I get absolutely nothing. No click, nothing. Is there a possibility my ignition is bad?
Would the "wait to start" and glow plug keep working if this were true? Electrical is not exactly my forte'. Before I replaced the solenoid, the bad one had a broken post but the truck would still start most of the time, and when it wouldn't I just connected the two large posts on the solenoid with channel locks or pliers or whatever was handy. I put the new one in exactly the same way the old one came out. I only undid one bolt and set of wires at a time so I wouldn't screw the order up, so I'm at a loss.
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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I am trying to add courtesy lights to the existing reflectors in the front doors of my supercab. I can't find a wiring diagram that shows where to connect the light sockets. 1999 F250 SD...
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I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
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What PMGR starters are comnpatable with 351W?
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1986 ford f150 standard cab, manual trans with 3 plus overdrive.
1989 302 rebuild v8. When trying to start occasionally the ignition continues to turn over..
Even after the engine fires, the starter continues to turn over until I have to disconnect the battery to stop it. Then it fires up fine afterwards what could the problem be.
I'm thinking the starter, or the ignition switch but I also heard it could be the starter solenoid.
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I have a 2004 Ford F-150 lariat with a bit of a problem. My running lights (not sure if correct term, I'm talking about the tail lights' illumination that stays on while you drive at night) are not working. My headlights and parking lights do work, and my brake lights and turning signals also work. I have put in a brand new brake light switch and checked every fuse and relay, but no luck.
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2006 F-250 SD... I Keep popping the 15A #17 fuse under certain conditions - Driving forward
1. Start with good fuse.
2. Start engine, while in park, turn on parking light...4.8A on circuit. No problems.
3. Put into reverse and drive. down the block around the corner and back up to the house... No problem. 4.8A on circuit.
Put the shifter into drive and - POP - the fuse goes. I never see a jump in the current. 1-5 seconds until fuse goes. While conducting testing, I have had the fuse blow when shifting from reverse to park. Looking at the wiring diagrams, I don't see a common wire that would cause a short when shifting. What I should try next?
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Pulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery, engine and aux turned off. Then Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. Then put key in and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in first then connected battery and truck started. Last stop took key out as well as disc batt and engine stayed on this time. repeated steps above several times to get back. Looking for narrowing the problem,possible ignition key cylinder, actuator or possible bad circuit.
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My turn signals will not work with the engine running. With the engine off they will. With the engine running if I move the ignition like I am going to turn it off they work.. Is it the ignition switch or ign cylinder....
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I have an 01 diesel excursion and last night I came home and when I turned the headlights off the park lights/running lights stayed on. When I turned the switch to park lights on, they got a little brighter? After an hour or so, the lights then went off.
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I have a friend of mine that has a 1983 and he had me change the water pump in it because it started leaking and it has been sitting for 7 Months now. I changed that but I can't get this bugger to start. I used to be a mechanic in a past life so I know what I'm doing most of the time so let me explain what has transpired here.
I attached my remote starter, turned on the key and cranked over the engine after shooting a little bit of starting fluid in the carb and she cranks over but won't start. I then pulled the #1 spark plug out and then did the same thing to check for spark and nada. I put my light tester on the coil and there was power. I have run into this kind of problem years ago with other vehicles so I thought I would just go ahead and replace the Coil and also the Control Module. After replacing these parts, still no spark. Since the distributor is there only to distribute the spark (meaning no electrical connections to it) I'm assuming that the Pick Up part that is down by the Crank shaft might be bad.
How to test either the Control Module or the pick up. I'm trying to diagnose this problem without needing to remove the module and taking them to the parts house for testing. (long drive). These wires should have 12 volts when the key is off and these wires should have 12 volts when the key is on.... and so on.
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First off my driver side brake light with stop working. I took it apart to try and find the short. In the process I shorted out all my running lights tail lights and brake lights and turn signals I think also. While I was looking for the short, turn signal wire from my tail light touched the frame and grounded out and that's when all the lights died . My tail lights are some cheap trailer lights without reverse lights. I pulled headlight switch from another Ford truck I have. On the harness connector that connects to the switch which wires should read what when I test with a voltmeter?I checked the fuses in the power distribution box under the hood and they were good. Truck has a flat bed so I don't know if that matters with the wiring, I suspect it's different then a normal bed truck. Wiring on the bed is old, maybe from 94. I am unexperienced with electrical.
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1998 Expedition EB, the lights on my running boards do not work. Checked online and can not locate the fuse for them, checked the lamps and found one that is burnt out. Here's the dumb question, if one bulb is out will that make the other three not work, something like the Christmas light strings?
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The front running lights come on immediately, but the tail and side running lights take their time coming on (usually 10 to 20 seconds later. 95 Ford E-350. Is their a relay that could cause this issue?
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