Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1977 - No Start - Ignition Wire Melted?
Aug 23, 2014
My 77 F150 Ranger with a 400 in it didn't wanna start up at all. It wouldn't even crank or click like if the battery was dead. Then I tried again this morning and it cranked once then melted a red wired with I think a black or gray tracer, on the ignition. (I put a new solenoid on a couple months back and the positive also melted a bit by the solenoid but didn't pay any attention to it.) I'm just wondering what could be wrong with it to make it do that and how to fix it. Also when I went to put gas in it (it's on a slight hill making it lean to the driver side) it was empty but no fuel would go down the filler neck, then it started to gurgle and spit it out some. I was told it was vapor lock but I thought vapor lock happens when it's hot.
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My 85 f150 5L is parked to far in into my alley.. the last time i saw my keys i moved it up to water the plants that it was tucked almost on top of.
ive been looking for the keys for 2 months.. the truck isnt being driven at all but i think my neighbors are getting mad at it being out so far.
I can get in the engine bay, and i have jumped the starter on our big trucks at work before.. but what wires do i have to join to put the ignition into the run position?
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I purchased a 94 Ford Explorer 4x4 4.0L w/ Automatic transmission with Overdrive. Great work truck, but I am finding that these had a lot of wiring problems. First thing that messed up with me is the backup lights wouldn't work. Then the dash lights and parking lights stopped working (Still no fuses where bad). Then about 2 weeks later, I was on my way home when It just died like someone had turned the switch off, I pulled off the side of the Interstate, and after checking my fuses/Relays under the hood.
I found that the EEC Fuse (30AMP-BIG Fuse) had blowed, I didn't have one and the truck wasn't off the road good, So I wrapped a small wire around the fuse to see if I could start it and get it out of the road better, It started right up, but soon as I pulled it off the road it died again, and I found that it melted the EEC Relay, I went to the parts store and got a new relay and fuse and put them in, It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in, with the switch off or on. I just need to know what things will cause this so I can check them out one by one, until I find the one that is causing this problem, cause It run great up till this happen.
Only other thing I may need to let you know, Is when I bought it, the key switch would start it, The guy had put a push button starter switch that you push to start it with the key on, I unhooked it, and it started fine with the key for a while then it stopped again, so I had to hook the push button back up and had been using it until it stop running with me.
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I bought a 1952 F1 that is mounted on a 1978 E350 chassis.( 351W )
It has all the 78 wiring installed. When cranking engine, it will not start, unless you release key to run position. You have to get engine turning over, and then quickly release key to start. Checked back of switch, not losing voltage at ignition post while cranking...
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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Our Honda Odyssey will have an occasional delayed start where you turn the key but no sound occurs. All the lights come on like normal and the automatic doors can all close and open without any issues. Originally we didn't know that we could eventually get the car to start by turning and holding the key in the start position. It happens every couple days to couple weeks and without holding the key in the on position it will be anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days before the car will start normally again. We've spent about $1,000 at the Honda dealer to have the battery, battery cables, starter, and starter relay replaced but we're still having the problem.
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Just bought a used, 03 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat. Having some minor electrical issues. While cleaning truck, I discovered a red wire coming into engine area on passenger side of vehicle. Wire has a built in 40amp fuse but isn't connected to anything. What this is for/ should be connected to???
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Only numbers 1,2,5 match the diagram below. my 6,7,8 are BK/W, PK/B, BR/PK. My Sony CD player came with bare wires. So I could cut off the truck oem plug. How hard is it to find a plug that goes from my OEM plug to my Sony CD player?
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I've searched all over and can't seem to find the answer. When I pull the tail light out of my 12 F150 there is a blue/wht wire and a black wire going to the back up light. I assume the blue wire is the positive and black is the ground. Is that correct?
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The red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
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I'm planning the install of a 1996 351w into my '77 F-100. I'm using the '96 accessory serpentine drive (FS-10 A/C compressor, '96 alternator, etc.). It needs to mate up to the '77 wiring. I'm going to use stock '96 underhood A/C components (accumulator, hoses, condenser).
As best as I can tell, the '96 system uses the ECU to manage the A/C system, but I've converted the '96 motor to a carb.
Looking at both the '77 and '96 systems I think the easiest underhood wiring solution would be to use the '77 compressor ON wire as a relay trigger, and use the '96 High Pressure Cut Off (HCPO) on the compressor manifold, and compressor cycling switch attached to the accumulator to interrupt the relay output to the compressor.
I can get the switches and pigtails, and I can look up their pressure trigger points, but I don't know the voltage the '96 switches operate at (12v or some reduced voltage?) or how to simulate their trigger conditions to see how they work. I guess that at ambient pressure the HPCO should be normally on and the cycling switch should be normally off. So I could just wire them into the relay ground or trigger connection. But of course they aren't simple two wire switches. (Edit: Looking at it online, the cycling switch appears to be two wire, the HCPO is 4 wire).
How to wire them, should I use them to interrupt the relay ground or trigger connection?
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On a 2008 E250, Where is the dome light wire and what color is it? To use with an omega security system.
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I have a trans temp gauge on my 1996 F350, I have it all hooked up and functioning except for the light. I have searched without success looking for where to splice in to get the light on and have it dimmable. I have a wire routed from the gauge to the center of the dash behind the stereo. What wire I can splice into?
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I have a wire that i think belongs to my Cruise control and I can't find out were it connects. It is dark blue/green stripe. It is in a wiring bundle with the oil sending wires ( two wires blk/w and y/o ).
I also get a code ....no sig from clutch neutral switch.
I just got done putting new heads on my little 2.9 and can't wait to use this as my daily drive. These two wiring issues are keeping my truck from running well enough to drive.
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I would like to hook up some auxiliary reverse lights, I want to use a relay. And activate the relay when I put my truck in reverse. I would like the relay to be in my custom relay/fuse box under my hood near my battery. I'm looking for a wire I can tap into, to use to active the relay as close to the battery as possible. Or at least a wire on the outside of the cab near the engine compartment. Maybe there's one coming from the tranny? I have a 2011 f250 super duty. XL, I think, its a very base model truck no power windows or locks, only fm/am radio, no NAV system, no remote unlock, no nothing, 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 1976 Ford F100 with a 302 and my problem is sometimes when my engine is running and I try to cut it off, it continues to run and the only way to stop it is to jerk the coil wire off. This is an intermittent problem. Happens about every 6 or 7 times I drive it. I have replaced the ignition switch and still have the same problem. Pretty sure it is some type wiring or ground issue, just need someplace to start.
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I have a 2007 e350. I installed a battery isolator and I believe I need to run a wire from the ignition circuit to the exciter post on the isolator. I found the Power Distribution Panel under the hood (drivers side) which has a fuse in slot #7 (60 amp Maxi Fuse) listed as Ignition Switch/Accessory Delay. What is the best way to tap into this?
Also, I have 8 gauge wire which I ran from the isolator to the batteries. I am second guessing this now and wondering if I should go with thicker wire?
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Pulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery, engine and aux turned off. Then Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. Then put key in and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in first then connected battery and truck started. Last stop took key out as well as disc batt and engine stayed on this time. repeated steps above several times to get back. Looking for narrowing the problem,possible ignition key cylinder, actuator or possible bad circuit.
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Just got a 66 f100. Some one cut out the ignition. It has a toggle switch that doesn't seem to do anything, turned it to on and used a screwdriver to short the solenoid and it did not crank. I think I counted 9 cut wires in the area of the ignition counting 2 for the toggle. My other 61-66 trucks seem to just have five wires? So I can remove an ignition from one of these parts trucks, but might there be a difference since the gauges are unique to 1966 ?
Started to take the ignition out of my 62 f600 but i hate to cut wires but i must since there is no remnant of an ignition in the 66 f100. If I can match the five wires i should be ok. Just putting a battery in i have headlights, tailights and dash lights. Solenoid and cable to starter look horrible so i bought a new cable. I think i have a good solenoid or two? I didn't even get a spark when i shorted the solenoid with a screwdriver....
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I have a 77 ford truck with a 351 ,the ignition system keeps shorting out, killing spark. If i replace the starter solenoid, it works for a while, then goes out again. I have replaced 4 solenoids this month. What could be shorting the solenoid out? Had the truck for 8 yrs. now, never had a problem with it till now. It has a mallory dist. it was in when i bought it.
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Having problems with their door locks attempting to activate when turning the ignition key? If so, how can I correct it or make repairs.
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