Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1965 - Clicking When Turn The Key To Start / Total Loss Of Power
Feb 11, 2013
1965 F100 300cid electrical drain...
I am attaching a link to my thread in the 1960's truck forum : [URL] .....
With my limited skill level, I have given up! It could very likely be something I am doing wrong with the diagnoses/troubleshooting.
Basically, When I turn the key to start the truck, I get a clicking solenoid at best and what appears to be a total loss of power. Not even the dome light will come on. The starter is new as is the solenoid.
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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I'm working on a 289 from a 65 Fairlane; When I attempt to start the engine it will turn over however, it will not start. I can switch it on and jump it with a screw driver and it starts right up. It started once with the key so I don't think it's the wiring. I don't want to start buying items chasing the problem when I don't know the answer. I have a new battery.
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'98 Dodge Caravan occasionally loses power and dies while driving. No power steering or brakes. Have changed alternator, battery, starter, computer, and starter switch. What else could it be?
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2005 Honda Accord. I have been experiencing a loss of electricity to my dashboard - the radio cuts out, tach and speedometer needles drop, sometimes warning lights come on. I don't think I have experience a loss of power with this but when it happens, it lasts less than a second.
I can go days of driving without issue. Then, in one drive it may happen four or five times. I hate the idea of taking it into the dealer on an intermittent electrical issue. That could be a real bank drain.
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There is a clicking sound (about once per second) in the front of the engine compartment of my 2002 Dodge Dakota (2WD, quad cab, manual, no alarm, no electric windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) when the vehicle is off (ignition in the off position - with or without key in ignition). It stops if the battery is disconnected, if the key is in the run position, or if the key is in the position that allows one to use power while the vehicle is off. The interior lights and headlights will flash in sync with the clicking sound if they are on as well. The chime that lets you know that the key is in the ingnition with the door open will miss a beat with the click also. The amps running through the circuit (no lights on) jump up from 27 milliamps to 39 milliamps with the click sound. A possibly related issue is that the headlights no longer stay on for the 30 seconds or so that they used to when I turn off and exit the truck after having driven with the lights on. The clicking and light flashing continued even though I removed each fuse and relay in the box under the hood and the one next to the driver door (the lights stopped when their fuse was removed, but the clicking continued).
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2001 F-350 diesel. Out of nowhere, I start the truck and there's no turn signals. Fuse is blown so I replace it. It immediately blows. Tail lights work. No turn signal, brake lights, or hazards. I haven't hooked up a trailer or done anything abnormal recently. Only the #1 fuse (20Amp) is blown. Pulled bulbs and they work fine. Inspected wiring under and near lights. NOTHING! Any way to localize a short?
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New ghost in the machine.
Pulled out of the driveway two days ago to go trailer a wrecked car home. Got about half a mile up the road, and my electrical system started flickering. Engine died, dash went nuts, everything is clicking on and off real fast. This went on for a minute or two, then stopped. After a little internal debate, I decided to continue on.
Ran fine for another mile or so. Hitched up the trailer and checked the lights, everything A-OK. Started rolling down the lane and the truck went dark. Engine shut down, no sign of electrical power anywhere. It was as if my batteries had been suddenly abducted by aliens. Truck stayed dark for about 5 - 10 seconds, then like a switch was thrown all the electric came back on. Dropped the trailer and drove back to the house without incident. Not towing a car like this.
Checked the battery connections. Looked really good and tight. Pulled and cleaned them anyways.
Pulled the fuse box out from under the dash and looked for water damage. Absolutely no sign of moisture or corrosion anywhere on the box or anything else under the dash.
Started the truck and turned every electrical item I could think of on. Truck sat and idled for 15 minutes without a hiccup. Voltage at the batteries was normal. I wiggled wires everywhere with no effect.
Decided to quit for the night. Got into the truck to move it to it's parking spot and POOF, all went dark again. Engine died, heater blower, radio, headlights, interior lights, all dark. About 5 seconds later, everything came back online.
No CEL. No other symptoms. She was either running perfectly or had no juice at all.
I drove it last night to the mechanic I use. 7 miles, bumps, potholes, stop and go traffic, no issues.
Just spoke with the mechanic. They can't reproduce the problem. I told him I can't reproduce it on demand either. I asked that they put it up on the rack and check all the ground points.
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After installing new struts and springs, I have now lost power steering. The car was fine after the strut install, but after driving a bit, the power steering quit. Can this be related the install, or completely unrelated?
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Driving the 98 Passat this morning everything fine. Then total loss of power, give it any gas and it stumbles and almost dies. Idles fine, can rev it in park or nuetral. Starts and idles fine, give it gas and it starts to move thens just dies down. If leave foot on accelerator, will move at idle pace but stumble with no power whatsoever. No "check engine" light. DOn't have a VAG tester but do have OBDII. Haven't checked if any stored codes. Will an OBD code be stored an not light up the CEL?
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I drive a 2007 Prius, I just purchased it about four months ago. Today after filling up with gas I drove about 60 miles and suddenly three lights on my dash came on. The all system light (the red triangle), the check engine light as well as the VSC or VCS what ever way it goes, my electric batter was also low on charge having only one bar(my car is not a plug in, the battery is recharged by the engine) then the car lost all boost and while pressing on the gas it was not accelerating. I pulled over and put it in park so the battery could charge. It charged to half way, however the lights stayed on.
My car then started running really rough, I am still in park at this time. I put some gas stabilizer in my tank because I thought maybe I got some bad gas. I left my car sit for about five minutes before turning it back on. All the lights were off except my check engine and my car started running normal. Then about three minutes later all the lights came back on and the car started running jerky again. When I push the gas to move I can, however I've only gone about four feet because it is running so rough.
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The other day I was driving down the 710 I-CA at around 80mph but as soon as I got on the east ramp for the 105 fwy I lost total power as the engine had just cut off and my check engine, battery, and oil lights went on so I came down the ramp in neutral. As soon as I stopped I popped the hood and saw that everything was ok I tried to restart the engine but it didn't work.
At the time the starter would crank the engine so I thought that the alternator was the problem. I had it towed home and changed the alternator but now when I try to start it all I get from it is a single crack from the starter and no crank. I tried to move the engine by hand and it wouldn't budge. I opened the engine thinking if could be that the timing chain broke but it is completely intact. My car is an 04 Toyota Matrix XR with a 1ZZ-FE engine....
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2000 XLT F150 4.6 - New starter & solenoid(s), battery cable & fuse links good.
When i turn the key, I hear one single click and the power cuts out entirely. I can't attempt a second start or turn on the lights or have any power going through the truck until I disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. Electrical becomes live again, then when the ignition is turned the electrical cuts out again. I do hear a single cluck at the starter (probably attempting to engage when it cuts out) and a clunk right at the inside fuse box (drivers side).
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I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
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I have a 1996 E350 7.3 pstd and it hasn't started since April... Van ran great but had bad bearings in the steering column. I changed out the bearings around the steering stem and it hasn't started since but turns over just fine. The main symptom is the dash loses power when key is rotating from the last run position to the spring back crank position. Basically halfway between run and start the the dash drops power. You can see the problem very well in this video I'm attaching.
I filmed this moths ago so the dash is in disarray and I'm using a screw driver to activate the ignition switch. The screw driver bypasses the key cylinder which I thought was the problem but it's not. Parts I've replaced include new glow plug relay, new ignition switch, alternator rebuilt, 2 brand new batteries, new cps sensor, and also a new pcm. All fuses and relays have been checked and most have been tested, pcm gets power in run position as well. Gotta get this thing figured out it's been sitting for 6 months
Watch the video : [URL] ....
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I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
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I have a '84 Bronco and before I redid all the ignition wiring when I turned off the key the engine would stay running for about 6 seconds and then turn off. Now when I turn off the key and turn off a switch about 6-8 seconds later I here a click sound that comes from under and about center of the dash. And sometimes it clicks on and off in rapid secession kind of like when you flip a light switch on and off quickly. Some days it does it and some days it don't.
If I leave the battery hooked up then it drains the battery overnight or within a day, and sometimes its just fine. So to be safe I unhook the battery whenever its not being driven or started periodically. I am wondering what is in the center of the dash that needs power and that controls the ignition stuff?
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I am trying to hook up my power door locks to my command start. I am having trouble getting it to work. Ive tried a number of relay diagrams from the12volt.com. I've tried actuators/reverse polarity and it blows both my factory door lock fuse and the fuse I have supplied to the relays. Ive also tried 5 wire alternating 12 volt positive door locks, and 3 wire positive door lock combinations. Both of these combinations the relays click back and forth fine with the actuators unhooked, when I connect the actuators the doors unlock with the factory switch but when I unlock with my remote it blows the fuse. How to properly connect the actuators?
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The tail lights do not turn off- the head lights do not turn on. every fuse was pulled and still the tail lights stayed on. Headlight switch was swapped out with a new one to eliminate it with no different result. No modifications known to have been made to the electrical system. This thing did spend a lot of time in NY state, so corrosion is likely. But this does not explain how/why the tail lights would stay on even if the headlight switch was off... IMO this would have to be an ignition switch issue.
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I'm trying to find the wiring diagram for the power windows in a 96 f150. I've got a set of these that i need to fab a harnes for to install in my 82.
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I recently had the high and low pressure tubes on my power steering fail causing a total loss of fluid. After about a week of living with manual steering, I brought it in and had the tubing replaced. Everything worked fine, though the steering felt a bit sloppy to me. Today, on my way home from a 100 mile trip, the car decided that turning left just wasn't something it wanted to do.
So to turn left, I would have to back up and turn the wheels to the right. Not exactly an efficient way to drive in traffic. Do I try to get the car back into my mechanics place to see if he can fix it for a reasonable amount, or should just bite the bullet and look for a newer car? BTW when I had brought the car in for the tubing replacement, they showed me where the bracket holding the strut on the left had begun to crack, probably from driving without the power steering. 1998 Malibu LS ....
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