Ford - Windstar :: 2002 - Intake Manifold Left Bank Stuck Open
Jan 28, 2016
I bought a 2002 Ford Windstar, it has over 154,000 miles on it. My problem is I got a ODB II code reader and it said that the Intake manifold on the left bank is stuck in the open position. How do I keep it from sticking.
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Check engine light computer scan indicates intake manifold runner control valve stuck open. Will it damage the car to drive it in this condition and what does fixing it entail?
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I have 98 windstar, p1538 code, IMRC. I have physically checked both IMRC's and they are functioning as they should. (if they were bad, they would not move at all right?) Assuming they are good, which step in the troubleshooting process I go to now? The van runs perfect, just that darn light! Do I start going for the O2 sensor now? What to next in the chain of troubleshooting?
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2001 windstar, IMRC works fine (closed) under 3000 rpm. When above 3000 rpm the intake runners open and i get surging/loss of power.
No error codes.
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On the manifold there is a metal/steel pipe that the heater hose hooks to. That pipe is leaking anitifreeze. It has a small hole in it. Is this pipe replaceable or is it part of the manifold.
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Check Engine Code P2006 intake manifold runner control stuck on closed? Taking it in to have it checked out.
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I needed to replace the intake manifold gasket on my 2002 f250 v10. Tore everything apart put the new gasket in which was the same as the old one lyrics to notice something isn't right. I have been driving the truck for over 10 years like this. Is it OK to just continue bolting everything down and go on like this? I am guessing the prior owner 10 plus years ago put the wrong intake on. I keep looking up intakes but they all look just like the one I have. Also that port exposed is on the back passenger side.
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I have a fudged-up looking oil leak that my oil change guy says is probably a blown intake manifold gasket. Is this the same as a head gasket? I thought a head gasket was around the pistons. I see there is a product on the market that you can put into your radiator that plugs up leaks in the head gasket (Steel something). Is this an OK fix? It would cost $90 for a bottle of the stuff. And what is a reasonable, or low, rate to replace this gasket? And, how long can I drive the car with this condition? It has lost a quart of oil in the past month, driving about 600 miles.
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Looking for any pictures or directions on replacing the intake manifold on the 2004 F150, 5.4. Got all the parts with the pulgs, and ignition coils.
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What are signs the intake manifold may be cracked? 2001 V10 Excursion....
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Will an intake manifold from a new mustang 5.0 fit on a 2014 F150 5.0?
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Driving around today my cel flashed on. Checked my programmer its saying P0022 intake camshaft position timing-over-retarded bank 2. What is the culprit?
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Check engine light is on, this is the code that came up when checked at OReillys, "P0113 Intake Air temperature sensor 1 Circuit high input". Earlier took it to repair shop, he did not give the code, some sensor needs to be changed (don't know if he came up with same code). He had erased the code but it came back on within minutes. Wanted to check if there is any cheaper way to fix this. This is a windstar van.
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'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no luck.
Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.
I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.
Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.
Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?
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I've got a 1997 F150 with the 4.2L V6. Before I got it last summer I did some research, but apparently missed the issue with the intake manifold gasket leaks on these early engines. It seems to be a very slow leak, but obviously I want to get it fixed. I called Ford to see if it had had the recall work done on it, but all they could tell me is that there wasn't an open recall on my truck (with the exception of the recent fuel tank strap recall). Their system apparently only goes back 10 years, so they couldn't even see the freakin' recall. So, I've got a few questions:
1) I know I didn't post much info, but does this seem like an intake manifold leak?
2) Are there any special tools needed to change out the gasket myself?
3) Can you all recommend any replacement gaskets? I found a few different manufacturers of gaskets, but I'm sure some are better than others.
4) Can this issue cause the computer to throw the loose gas cap code (P0455 if I recall correctly).
5) Would it be worth it to just get a new truck? I really wanted a diesel in the first place, but I also hate to give up on a nice truck with only 115,000 miles.
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Replaced head gaskets on 2003 f-150 5.4. Now I can hear a ticking noise in middle of intake by #5 port. Maybe timing is off 1 link?
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I was working on my friend's '87 Ranger with 2.9 L V6, and a little bit of dirt fell into the intake manifold through the injector ports and intake ports. I should've cleaned the top of the engine with a shop vac first. Anyway, should I remove the intake manifold, or try to vacuum the bits out? It's pretty oily inside, and they might be stuck to the inside of it, so the vac might not do much. If I have to remove it, do I have to de-mesh the distributor gear to remove it, or does the distributor attach to a splined shaft? After looking at the diagrams, the answer was unclear.
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I have a 77 bronco with a 5.0 efi engine from a 97 Ford Explorer. I noticed there is oil in the cold air intake area and upper intake manifold. I was checking on things and noticed oil around the PCV valve and on the outside of the cold air intake system. Should I be concerned about this? I have done some research. I checked the PCV valve and intake manifold gasket which appear to look fine.
The PCV valve rattles and the gasket is intact. Granted there isn't a lot of oil when I looked inside the upper intake manifold but thought I should write and ask if this is a problem or not. Should I just replace them pcv valve any ways and recheck it after driving it for a few miles? The explorer did have 110K on it but when we took it apart we thought the engine looked great for how many miles it had on it. We did change out the cam and timing chain but as far as the other parts, we did not replace.
I am also getting a unusual reading to not reading with my oil gauge. When driving for a about 30 minutes or so, My oil gauge goes down to zero when I'm stopped but when I'm drive off then the pressure comes back up. When I have it in park the gauge reads fine.
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So i was thinking about buying a intake manifold for my truck and porting it and polish it. Would it be worth doing. I've decided that trying to port the heads will take up to much time and money for gaskets. Now the only reason why I am buying another stock one is so i can take my time and do it right.
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I am about to replace the intake manifold and gaskets. I know all of that process, but first question is if there is anything i should do whilst in there. Second question; what can I do with my intake to get more power? Mainly just kind of wondering before I get my parts ordered.
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so new motor new intake , rear passenger side decides to leak when roughly about 10 degrese or lower and being -13 yesterday and-18 this morning.
last year it did this n i put a nother hose clamp on that rear tube and just happened to stop . n now back but the ting is that its not wet at all at the hose but at top of head bottom intake hmm . this is all just during the initial start of truck stops even before truck really gets warm
if i tke it off n its messed up i hope its warrentied even though i painted it. if fine i guess add some gasket maker ?
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