Ford - Windstar :: 2001 Rough Idle After Warm Up
Jul 29, 2014
Back after months...van has been checked by 2 ford dealer mechanics here in VA , nothing.
Now it's the opposite ...temp outside 90 or higher, drive it for 8 -10 ml, park and come back after 15 min. From shopping, try to start, won't idle, stalls every time I try , after 6-8 attempts, back to normal, all together 3 times, last time was so bad, had a real problem to make it back home, at every stop, it stalled.
Back to the shop ....they drove several times, no show ...it's fine, don't know what to do ????
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2001 windstar rough idle at warm up, start drive the van with cold engine for about 3-4 ml s, come to a light, stop, van starts rough idling, if I don't put it in neutral and hit the gas it will die ... after that , no problem .
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We are at 120K miles. The vehicle runs fine most of the time, but every once in 10-15 starts, it will rough idle or stall after a short warm up time when my wife stops at an intersection. Once she restarts it, it runs fine.
I have changed the spark plugs and wires, the fuel pump, the crankshaft position sensor (was fried) and after consulting this forum, I checked the fuel pressure regulator and the diaphragm is not leaking.
I was able to recreate the rough idle and the CEL on the dash, but my two OBDII readers said there were no codes And the bluetooth reader I am using is indicating that the following tests are not completing: Fuel System, Catalyst, Evaporative System and Oxygen Senors.
The dash CEL resets itself upon restart and does not light until the symptoms return.
After reading the Haynes Repair Manual, I am wondering about the Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system? But I don't want to lead the troubleshooting.
We bought the vehicle at 60K miles and it has been mostly reliable.
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I have 2000 ford windstar with 3.8 engine. I have been reading up on the idle problems with these vans. However, most responses are in regard to the engine stalling and/or it trips a code. My does not do this. Sometimes the idle is rough and other times everything is smooth. I am thinking it may be an egr valve or dpfe valve.
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My windstar 3.8 engine has idle problems and engine light comes on at times. Code po305 (misfire #5). When I add sea-form to tank and drive awhile, the engine light goes out and the engine idle's normal. Is this an eva problem and what should I look for?
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It is idling very rough at times, not all the time, when sitting at stop lights/signs. Sometimes it will stall out. 3 times it has stalled in the middle of an intersection while turning. Scary as hell! I Have to stop the van on the side of the road, put it in park, turn it off, then start it again before I can go. This process is getting Old!
While sitting at a stop sign/light, it's like the engine surges up and down. Some surges get low enough that the van will just die. If I step on the gas or put the van in neutral it will quit for a minute. All of the lights in, on, outside of the van go bright/dim with every surge. The battery light will occasionally flash on and off during the surges, but not every time.
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This is a little odd. Over the last two years or so the van had developed a rough idle issue. When left to idle in Park or Neutral the roughness would usually lead to the engine stalling after a few minutes.This happened both in and out of gear but only when the engine was still cold, idle returned to normal once normal op temp had been reached. Cleaning the IAC got rid of the problem... sort of. Now it idles fine in Park or Neutral but when in gear and engine/tranny still cold it is still very rough.
When waiting at a traffic light with my foot on the brakes the van shudders as it tries to lurch forward, the shaking is very noticeable even to those outside the van. This has become so bad I shift it into Neutral every time I need to stop at a traffic light, and it instantly settles into steady smooth idle at 800 rpm. However once the engine is warm everything returns to normal. Another thing I noticed is that when in gear and cold the roughness only occurs with brakes applied. Feels like whenever the roughness in the engine occurs the transmission attempts to override the brakes, which causes the lurching.
While the problem only lasts 5 to 10 minutes until op temp is reached it is nevertheless very annoying and driving me nuts. My main concern is that it may eventually cause damage to the transmission to be tugged at and jerked around in such a way. I am running out of reasonable explanations as tho what may be causing this and have begun elaborating more esoteric theories. My latest one is that since this only happens when the brakes are applied then the tiny voltage required to activate the brake lights is somehow causing some other electric part to fail, and that the rough idle is somewhat related to this. Shows you just how desperate I'm getting.
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After all my attempts, I could not fix the rough idle. I have done the gaskets of the gaskets and bolts of the intake manifold (the engine light disappeared), I have changed the bushings of the manifold too (the one one the left side), I have changes the TPS sensor, I have cleaned the MAF sensor...
The rough idle is still there (and getting worse) and there is some smell of gasoline now. I suspect that I have to change sparks and cables, but I wanted to confirm first with you because the whole thing seems complicated as some of the plugs are buried very "conveniently". You could usually feel an ascending vibration while waiting at the traffic light. You can't feel it as much when in neutral, but it is still there.
I have noticed that on the right side of the Intake manifold (under the throttle) there is some sort of greasy substance that always looks wet. I suspect that it is burnt oil, but that think's been there since I bought the car, so I am not sure if it is related in any way.
I haven't changed the oil and air filter since last summer but I doubt that would be an issue. Additionally I realized that I put pure antifreeze when I need to use 50/50. Anyways, those things I will fix this summer anyways. All I want to fix now is the rough idle because these vibrations drive me nuts.
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I drive a hot mess of a vehicle. It is a 1997 for taurus that's got more than its fair share of miles on it.My big brother drove this car when he was 16 and I am 22. I am a college kid and I don't do much to my car knowing it will die soon but at the same time I don't have much money to do much. We have a good relationship most of the time and I gladly provide gas and regular oil changes in exchange for transportation.
My car when its warm outside especially idles very rough. So rough that at times it stalls out. It seems to happen most often and to the worst degree when the outside temp is very high and it has been running recently and I'm trying to start it up again. At other times and temperatures it has idled rough but not bad enough to stall. Once I start driving, or moving, its fine. The rough idle makes my car sound like a boat, that's the best way I can explain it.
Why my car does this? How to fix it?
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I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
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I have a 05 fx4 5.4L with 85k on it. It has started idling rough when i come to a stop light or slow down to 10 mph or less. It only does it once in a while. There doesn't seem to be any real pattern. The motor shakes until you rev it up and then it goes away.
I have cleaned the maf, put in new air filter and fuel filter. And put in a new battery. Would a coil act like that? Maybe plugs? Or a vacuum leak?
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I have 2004 f150 small v8 (4.7?) Has about 92000 miles.
When warm truck runs excellently. At first start up the idle is very rough and raw gas smell for about 4 minutes then truck runs like new. Will start and restart great until it cools down overnite.
My actron says missfire cyl 3. Did not fix it. Dealer says that on start up compression is zero in cylinder three but is 100% when it warms up. Suggested I run seafoam through it. He thinks it has a vacuum leak or carbon at start.
In my limited knowledge I am thinking:
sticky lifter
bent push rods
warp valve
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My 95 4.0 has had a periodic idle issue for quite a while. It seems it may be getting worse. Here is when it may only happen:
Vehicle is fully warm. I shut it off for about 1 hr or so and when I restart it, it shakes and misses in idle. It will idle fine after I drive it around or if I rev the engine for a while when still parked.
This never triggers the "check engine light". New fuel filter, plugs and wires.
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Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
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Second off my 01 PSD CC has a issue. When its more or less sunny and hot out 90+ at idle A/C blows warm .... I've just replaced my fan clutch as it was lose a bit .... Also replaced dyer VVO and compressor recently. Idle low is at 40 and high is at 190 200 ...
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My 06 currently has 296k miles. 3 years ago I put a lot into her. Dummy plugs, stand pipes, STC, hg,studs, oil cooler, bpd egr cooler. Cleaned spool valves and fresh o rings in injectors. (Alliant) plus a lot more that I can't remember. Ran very very well after all that.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago. Driving down road and truck died as I let off pedal to slow down for turn onto my road. Took about 7-8 tries to get started back up. Icp was reading in the 300's until it finally started. Made it home. Shut it off. And started right back up.
Few days later truck died again same way. Let off to make a turn. Several attempts to restart icp was in the 300's again. Once it started building 420ish it sounded like it was firing a few injectors and slowly started running. The next time it happened the same way but when I got it back running I eased to my inlaws like less than a mile. When I got to their house and pulled in and went to back up to turn around the display on dash said low oil pressure and started missing a little. So once I got home started researching.
A few days ago I pulled out the low pressure oil regulator to check it out. It was clean but did have some mild scaring. I used some fine scotch rite and smooth it out a a little. It moved freely in the bore so I put it back together. Then pulled the oil filter cap off to check the little black valve. I noticed the filter was not dripping with oil like normally when I change the oil. And yes it's motor craft filter and cap. It checked out ok. Press it down and turned engine over and it filled and held. Let off of it and it drained.
Next I air checked the high pressure side. Applied air and waited until I could hear the air (IPR still open) then closed the IPR. Couldn't hear any leaks. Just a very very minor his and couldn't pin point where. So I went ahead and went to dealer and got new stand pipes and plugs. And ordered new print set for injectors. Pulled injectors and didn't see any smoking guns. Replaced prongs, stand pipe and dummy plugs and put it all back together. Cleaned the injector cups and hold down bolt holes. Torqued injectors to spec.
Got it all done and rotate motor by wire next to heater blower to assist prime system. Tried to start it up and it took two tries but fired right up and sounded smooth as hell. After it idled a few minutes I saw a haze from exhaust. It smelt just like fuel. A few minutes later started idle a little rough. Gave it some go pedel and it was rougher at about 1600-1800rpms and couldn't feel it above 2k. Got my laptop out with AE and done balance test. Did not show anything. No codes either.
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Recently I have been experiencing some rough and low idles with my 1MZ-FE 05' Camry. The car runs idles perfectly fine and drops to the correct idle when cold, however if the engine has been running at normal temperature and started again soon after the idle drops extremely low until the throttle is opened.
I have cleaned the throttle body with with throttle body cleaner a number of times, although I haven't taken the IAC valve out and cleaned it separately. I have also heard that the Engine Coolant Temp valve may be going bad. Could my symptoms fit this?
I had a dodgy EGR sensor not long ago that was giving me rough idles on a cold start, however I managed to mitigate that problem a by cleaning simply removing the sensor and giving it a quick clean. I don't think that this is the cause but I can't be sure.
I haven't had the spark plugs or fuel filter changed in a while although I'm unsure that these would be the problem if the idle was rough and low only when the engine was warm.
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I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
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This is what my car is doing after it warms up. It will do it then stop, then do it again and so on. I am pretty sure when the motor is under load it runs a little rough but is hard to tell. The car has 178,000 miles on it. timing belt was done at 113,000. I just replace the plugs and wires changed the oil and the air filter 1,000 miles ago. and it will still do it. I am at a loss as to why it keeps doing this. I have tried injector cleaner, sea foam and engine restore. What would cause this? The check engine light is not on. i replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor about 40,000 miles ago.
Its a 2003 hatch with the 1.6 5 speed .....
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I've got an 01 Ford Escape 4 cyl 5spd awd, it idled low when its warm, revs between shifts and if you put it in nuetral and let the clutch out when you're moving it revs to 3500rpms and just sits there until you stop or push the clutch back in. I've replaced the iacv and the pcv valve, elbow and hose, and the tps. What to look at next?
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'91 buick, 3 spd. 0 acceleration in 3rd, trouble code says TCC curcuit. Lopes @ idle when warm, runs rough @ times. many new sensors, timing chain & sprockets, still, the loping.
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