Ford - Windstar :: 2000 - Gauges Gone Wild?
Jul 27, 2007
My '00 Windstar has recently begun to exhibit some curious instrument panel behavior in the form of dancing gauges. All gauges are affected simultaneously - temp, tach, speedo and fuel - quickly swinging from stop to stop in no apparent pattern. This will go on for a few seconds to a couple of minutes, then they resume normal operation. It may occur again on the same trip or not for a week or so. There are no other symptoms, no CEL, no obvious trigger or apparent after-affects, the van runs fine. The battery is fairly new and quite strong. Is this likely just a ground issue? Where would I start to look?
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we have a 2000 Windstar that has chattering brakes...what is the cause of this?
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I have a 1984 XJ6 and while driving the RPM dial will go wild and then the car dies. It starts up again no problem. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to this. The car has a new transmission and I just replaced the starter... What could be causing the problem?
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I a 2002 ford windstar 3.8 engine. I need to put a new shift cable on it. And reconnect it to the transaxel range sensor or the netural safety switch. Not sure what i have on my van. But what i need to know is how to put it into park by hand to start the van, then how to put it into drive to drive the van. I need to get the van running the right way. Next month, I'll get them. but need to get around now. so how to shift the gears by hand.
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I have 2000 ford windstar with 3.8 engine. I have been reading up on the idle problems with these vans. However, most responses are in regard to the engine stalling and/or it trips a code. My does not do this. Sometimes the idle is rough and other times everything is smooth. I am thinking it may be an egr valve or dpfe valve.
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My question is about a 2000 ford windstar with 3.8 engine. Does this vehicle have a coolant temp sensor and sending unit or just a sensor?
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About two days ago we were driving home and our van started to make a noise when we press on the gas pedal. it sounds like a machine gun under the hood. what can it be?
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2000 Windstar 3.8L sounds like a diesel engine (exactly like and old diesel) when it warms up. My girlfriend noticed the problem and checked oil and it was low, she added, and then when she started it the next day, sound was gone. While she was driving it came back and would stall out. When she got it home I checked and the coolant overflow was empty, I added water and it poured out on the front (passenger) side of the engine. I immediately assumed head gasket.
Once it cooled I started pulling the stuff out. Down to the head on the Right hand bank (front of car). There is oil in the coolant, but no coolant in oil, (or very very little). Found the coolant is leaking from water pump itself it looks like. where the lower rad hose goes into pipe for water pump. or on the flange seal for water pump. It is so tough to actually see where. It also looks like the intake gaskets were bad because of the dirty oily wet condition under the intake manifold.
The car only makes the noise when warm, when it is cold it runs just fine. Would just the water pump being bad and leaking coolant cause this problem, is it a bad head gasket, something else? If it is the head gasket, I cannot get the head bolts to break free. I didn't have a 15mm 1/2 drive, so used a 3/8 drive and the 1/2-3/8 adapter spun right off.
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Ford - no front heat - 2000 Windstar - actuator
My Dad's 2000 Ford Windstar van stopped putting out heat to any front vents. I was able to hear a rhythmic thumping sound when the heat control slider was placed in the hot position. I looked for info on line, and found many posts that said the actuator was probably the issue. I also went back and asked my Dad if before the thumping sound he had heard anything else, and he confirmed he had heard some gear grinding noises, which others have reported as the actuator is starting to grind and slip its internal gears. If the actuator is not working correctly, it won't hold the heater duct door in the open position, which means you can't get any hot air.
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I have a 2000 Excursion V10, I keep blowing the #19 10A miniature fuse while I am going down the road. All gauges and speedometer all of sudden die but the vehicle keeps running until I turn it off. When I try to restart she won't fire until I put a new fuse in.
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I recently purchased a 2000 F150 Regular Cab Work Series with the 4.2 V6 4x4 and an automatic transmission. It has what seems to be an electrical issue where the speedometer and gauges come in and out seemingly at random. All of my fuses are good with the exception of Fuse 1 in the fuse box under the steering wheel, which will blow every time I put a new one in. It seems like there is a short in the wiring for the radio? However Fuse 1 is supposed to control only the audio, and I'm not sure why that would be an issue with the gauges.
When they come on, everything seems to work just fine. Also, even when they go out and I have the headlights on, both the gauges and the car stereo will be backlit with the green glow.
When I turn put the key in the run position, the gauges will come on and remain on for a random amount of time after I start the engine, then will go out and come on at random. When the gauges go out so will my check engine light (code P0460).
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On my 2000 Ford Windstar when I step hard on the gas I have a coolant leak from the back side of the motor and had antifreeze coming up onto the windshield when I turned on the heat. I took the van into the shop and they did a pressure test on it and could not find any leaks and after this I didn't notice any leaks or smell of antifreeze. Drove the van 400 miles with no problem but last Friday I had to step on the gas to exit a parking lot and then again I smelled coolant and my van was steaming. I added coolant and drove it and it is fine now. There is no oil in the coolant tank.
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2000 F-350 7.3L no gauges or throttle, I checked the fuses and no luck....
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I have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
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Dad's 2000 F150 5.4 ltr will start intermittently, when it does fire it runs fine, but right after start up all the dash gauges "spike" to the max levels for a sec and then go back down to normal....
Put the Cen-Tec 98614 code reader on and it continues to say "Link error" and I can't communicate to the interface. P.S., I confirmed the Code reader is good by pulling a 420 O2 sensor code from my Toyota in just a few seconds....
I can hear the fuel pump kick in so I doubt that is the culprit. Because of the gauge spike at start up (every time) this problem screams grounding problem, but I don't know where to start. Could it be a faulty relay?
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I have a 2000 f350 XLT SD v10 gas. The radio works, the heater works and the power windows work too. It's just the cluster. Lights work in the cluster it's the gauges are dead truck starts fine.
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I decided to tackle my ABS warning light issue because it's been on and off intermittently since I bought it.
I first suspected bad wheel sensor(s) per many previous threads. I borrowed a scantool with the ABS diagnosis and found that all 4 wheel sensors are reading same speed value, but they indicate wheel speed of about half of the speedometer reading. Another thing I noticed was that the ABS main power relay output is "1bit" when the ABS warning light is OFF and is "0bit" when it is ON.
So it seems like the ABS power relay is bad. My alldata manual for this model says that the part number for the relay is FOAZ14N089A but it also says that "the ABS is not equipped with an external ABS Relay. According to wiring diagrams provided by Ford, the function of the ABS relay is incorporated into the ABS module". Does this mean that I have to replace the whole ABS module or HCU just because the relay is bad?
Why wheel speed is different than speedometer?
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The horn came on solid about 10 minutes after parked. This is not alarm, as horn is blowing solid. Tried all things to reset the alarm, started engine, locks, etc. Only way to get to stop blowing was to disconnect battery. Re-connected, still blew, disconnected 5 minutes, reconnected, and was ok.
Since that time, it has started going off randomly, even when driving on road.
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I have a 2000 F350 4x4 with 7.3L diesel and a manual transmission. While driving home yesterday my gauges (fuel, temp, volts, oil pres) stopped working. Within a couple min the speedometer and the tach also stopped working, but the truck was still running fine. Within a couple miles the engine stopped running, just like I had turned the engine off.
After having it towed home I checked all the fuses, none are blown, but there is no power to fuse #16 (15A, instrument cluster, high beam head lamp). Also in the fuse box under the hood, again, no fuses are blown, but fuse #9 (left head lamp low beam) and #11 (right head lamp low beam) have no power to them.
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My 2000 Windstar cooling fan on the passenger side is running all the time when I am driving, even in freezing temperature. My gas mileage goes from 18 to 13 now.
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First, it's not a sticky IAC. I already experience that in cold weather and compensate simply with the gas pedal until engine warms up. However this coughing, sputtering, backfiring, misfiring problem is very severe. When it is in this state, the engine will lose rpm and stall. No way to coax it with the gas pedal to keep it running.
It happens most often when you restart the engine after having stopped somewhere for 10-30 minutes. It happens less often during a cold start in the morning. When it does this, I remove the key, and try again. Usually in 3-10 tries, the engine runs properly. Once running properly, there is never an occurrence of this.
However, today only, first cold start, it cranked and would not fire at all. Repeatedly. Jiggled the key and maybe they made it start. Ignition switch? If Neutral Switch, it should not have cranked. Perhaps my intermittent problem is worsening.
Wet weather seems to aggravate it.
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