I got my 77 ford truck w/four wheel drive half ton with a np435, 351M and i was wondering if a bad or worn bearing can cause vibration. i can feel it by the pedal when i accelerate from 50 to 65. I don't know if that's my trans or maybe the pilot bearing?
View 10 RepliesIt's NOT a truck. But my '97 Town car happens to use the same 4R70W transmission and 8.8" rear axle that the F150 from the same era used to use....
I'm troubleshooting what I first thought were bad pinion bearings in the rear differential. On the highway the car makes a shaking/growling kind of noise that fades in and out from 55 MPH and higher. Also when you're on the throttle there is a howling type of noise that comes from the rear of the car, the harder you're on the throttle the worse it is.
I got under the car convinced that my pinion bearings were shot, looking for the smoking gun. But I can't find any noticeable play on the pinion shaft of the rear axle. Slid on up to the front of the driveshaft and there's noticeable play on the extension housing of the transmission:
2013 12 27 19 06 40 - YouTube
Any chance this is causing my issue, or am I in for some expensive rear end work?
I'm the original owner at 50k miles with Ford ESP warranty. Drive-train still under original warranty. I started noticing a low growl hum noise and vibration felt on gas pedal when accelerating at about 40 MPH. At first I thought it was the road or tires.
Then a few weeks later on a slight hill the growl-low hum was accompanied with a much more noticeable/louder growl/grinding noise in a heartbeat like rhythm. Took it to dealer and they first said it was the transmission. It was replaced.
Then they said the noise was from the rear differential/axle. It was rebuilt, oiled and sealed. Taking it back today for another drive with the mechanic to show them again the problem persist. What it may be? Also, my MPG has dropped significantly from an average of 18 to 13. This is while driving on 4x4 Auto.
I have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?
2004 F150 FX4 5.4L. I drove from Vancouver to Edmonton and back this week and I started to get some issues. If I'm in overdrive at highway speeds, from about 90km/h to 120km/h give or take, which would be around 1600-2100rpm, and then I try to accelerate, sometimes on flats, rarely on downhills, but always on uphills, the truck will begin to jerk fore and aft. It feels like it's something through the driveline, either the driveshaft or the differential, but I really can't say for certain as I'm stuck in the driver's seat while this is happening.
If the truck downshifts or if I take it out of overdrive, i.e. getting the revs up high, the problem is no more. Other than the issue I'm having, it operates perfectly so this is very odd. I know that overdrive isn't a hill climbing gear, but normally an engine in the wrong gear will simply lug along until it's downshifted. The entire truck jerking shouldn't happen.
On my way to Edmonton, I noticed that this would cause one single, minor jerk. This is my way of describing it, but it was like the driveshaft had spun freely and then promptly re-engaged with the differential gear, causing a clunk. I doubt that's actually what happened, but I'm just trying to explain the sensation. It kind of feels like trailer jerking.
On the way back to Vancouver, it was a lot worse. Like I said, the whole truck would be jerking about once per second but there was one time that I found the sweet spot and it began jerking rapidly, twice per second. I threw it out of overdrive to stop this but the vibration caused the check engine light to flash a few times but it went away and didn't stay on.
What I might be up against? Been doing a little research. Seems as though this is common and it's supposedly the spark plugs, but those only have 50,000km on them.
I have a 2011 F150 ecoboost supercrew 6.5 ft bed. I have noticed a bad vibration/ grinding in the driveline, mainly after a long trip on the highway and coming to a stop and starting again. And it's noticeable at lower speeds. What this may be caused by. It seems like the rear end is binding but I have had the rear end checked and the level was good.
View 2 RepliesOn my 07' I bought it home mid AUG. It has been getting much worse to a point there is a rear driveline vibration at all speeds above 40 and up to 70. I used to change intensity whether you are on or off the gas, and would almost vanish if in neutral. However now it is all the time.
I cannot feel any play on the u-joints, the yoke has a little play in the xfer case but is is normal like on most other trucks I have owned, and the pinion flange is nice and tight. Could this be **tight** ujoints or the driveshaft itself? It looks rusty, but there are no dents on it.
Truck is an '07 F350 Supercrew, 8ft bed, SRW, 2wd. I bought the truck last month and noticed a low frequency driveline vibration starting at about 45 mph and is noticeable to about 65 mph. Feels like a bad u-joint. So I pulled the drive shaft (two piece) and checked the joints. They seemed find so I sent it to a commercial truck shop that does driveshaft work. Had the joints replaced and the shaft rebalanced.
Re-installed drive shaft and went for a test drive. No real change in the vibration. The hangar bearing seemed fine so it wasn't changed. Doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance. My experience tells me its a drive shaft.
I have a 15 F250 CC SB 6.2 4x4 that is suffering from a driveline vibration. Had the shaft checked for balance and it was off. It's a little better now but still there. Checked all the angles and they're correct. Also came up with a curious observation that all CC SB 4x4's have a slip yoke driveshaft at the transfer case while all the other trucks have the fixed yoke. This appears to be my source of the vibration.
View 3 Replies2007 explorer makes a grinding sound I feel in the gas pedal upon acceleration. Also hesitates when acceleration on highway.....
View 3 Replies1988 F-150 4X4, 302, 5 speed manual Mazda transmission. I picked this truck up from a teenager and have been going through it fixing the odds and ends, just when I thought I was done a new one popped up.
There is an odd "clunk" in the driveline, but I cannot pinpoint where it is coming from. It happens almost exclusively in third gear, shifting up or down into this gear. It has happened in first gear one time that I can remember. When it happens, I hear the pop (clunk), then feel a slight jerk like when a chain slips on a bicycle.
I spent some time under the truck yesterday trying to locate it, but had no luck. Did find the yoke on the rear end , 8.8, a little loose. Found that the U-joints at each end of the driveshaft were worn out. The transfer case, BW 1356, was quite low on fluid. And there was nothing out of the ordinary with the transmission.
Tightened the yoke, replaced the U-joints, drained the T-case and refilled with fresh ATF and pulled the fill plug on the tranny to ensure it had ATF instead of gear oil in it. It did.
I hoped all of that had solved my mystery noise, but I wasn't that lucky so now I need to isolate it. Seems that if there was a problem in the T-case or rear diff, the noise would be present trough all gears wouldn't it? With it being primarily in one gear, could the problem be in the transmission? If so, can it be rebuilt for a reasonable price?
I have a 1999 f250 SuperDuty with a nasty vibration That begins at about 70mph. The truck is an extended cab 5.4l Manual trans 4X4 with a one piece driveshaft (No mid bearing). The Vibration appears to me to be a driveline vibration that is speed dependent. It is the same in gear, out of gear clutch in or out. I have replaced the wheel bearings/hub assemblies on all four corners, completely rebuilt and balanced the driveshaft the driveshaft, removed the front driveshaft, put brand new tires mounted and balanced on all four corners, new clutch, had the flywheel turned and balanced, and replaced the transfer case output bearings. Pinion bearing feels tight and does not leak.
Also the Input in the trans felt tight when i had the trans out. The truck had the vibration when i bought the truck and still vibrates after i have done all of this work. i did not change the motor mounts because they looked fine. when i bought the truck the tabs on the extension housing holding the trans-mount to the trans were broken so i make a huge "exhaust clamp" to straddle the trans and bolt to the trans mount.
After driving the truck up north last weekend the truck seems to shake going taking of at lower rpm as if the motor mounts and trans mounts are bad. I guess my questions is can a bad trans mount, motor mounts cause this Vibration at highway speed. if so is there a way to fasten the trans-mount to the extension housing without replacing the extension housing. If not what else can cause this issue?
02 CCSB, and I have a vibration in my driveline that's starting to drive me nuts on my commute every day. I can feel it faintly starting at about 45 mph, whether the torque converter is locked or unlocked. The vibration peaks at about 60 mph and goes away at about 65+. My u-joints are all moog and grease them every oil change (about 120k on them now). At this point I suspect the carrier bearing, yokes, or even u joints but there's not much play. However the rubber around the carrier bearing is in rough shape and dry rotting. I'm curious if there's a test I can do to find the culprit.
View 1 RepliesMy car definitely has a driveline vibration, but the steering wheel also vibrates. All vibrations are, however, intermittent as to when they come and go, and the intensity - on both the chassis and the steering wheel - can also vary.
Tires and wheels have been ruled out with 99.9% confidence at this point... What puzzles me is how a driveline issue in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle can affect the steering wheel (even though it can certainly explain the shaking of the whole car). In the end, it's all connected to the same body, but still... I am even wondering if my car has this driveline vibration PLUS something else (e.g., control arms in the front suspension appear to be a popular replacement part in these cars according to other threads).
Here is a link to the TSIB that I borrowed from another thread: [URL] ....
5.0L ... I'm having one of those moments, you know after you do a mod to your truck and all of a sudden you notice something about your truck that could have been there all along but now you notice it as something new? Ok earlier in the week I had my exhaust resonator removed and replaced with a straight-pipe by a reputable exhaust shop. IMO the work looks to be pretty good for what it is.
That said I have always been nervous about getting exhaust work on any vehicle because it always seems like tampering with or removing the OEM plumbing for aftermarket or custom work tends to develop a vibration at some point.
So here is what I've noticed over the last couple days, when driving my truck it is extremely smooth, almost like glass. When I come to a complete stop say at a traffic light about 1-2 seconds after making the complete stop I feel this slight harmonic vibration in the steering wheel. For those of you that have an iphone it would be like having your phone bolted to the steering shaft somewhere and it on constant vibration if that makes sense.
Just to prove it only happens when I'm sitting still and idling in (D)rive I sat in my driveway with the truck idling, set the park brake and released the brake pedal holding the truck in place in (D)rive with the parking brake. No vibration, smooth as glass engine idle, as soon as I put my foot back on the brake pedal the vibration comes back. It's as if the extra draw of applying the brakes puts an extra load on some sort of accesory drive or componant under the hood and the result is this harmonic vibration.
Just so everyone knows, the vibration is very noticeable to me because I drive the truck daily, most people wouldn't pick it out if I didn't tell them first. Case in point if my wife drives the truck she can't feel it unless I tell her what to look for. There are going to be some of you that just say my truck doesn't do this and has had a smooth idle for XX,XXX miles I believe you but let me know now that I have explained exactly what to look for. Like I said for all I know it's done this since day one.
I have a feeling that the straight pipe might have been welded in slightly longer than the oem section that was removed thus putting more tention on the exhaust and engine if that makes sense, the end result being a slight vibration?? I know that manufactures put these little rubber bushings along the exhaust system on cars/ truck to absorb harmonic vibrations and for all I know my resonator might have been designed to balance out harmonic vibes in the exhaust system as well as quiet down the exhaust.
I have a 2005 F-250 4x4 and recently i noticed a grinding noise while driving and then when I come to a stop I hear a clunk and the grinding stops. It sounded like it came from the driver side wheel so I changed the wheel bearing assembly. About 3 days later it started again. Now it sounds like it's coming from both sides. I am at a loss. The hubs are unlocked. It's hard to describe the sound but to me it sounds like 2 gears with a large chain rotating on them. I hope that made sense. The clunk can be felt in the brake pedal.
View 2 RepliesI couldn't avoid seemingly a huge pothole when drove at night, and the sound was really awful. After that, I could feel vibration through the steering. The ride isn't the same anymore. What causing the problem? Try to get the car to the tires shop tomorrow. don't wanna bring it to the dealer. Bad experience when I tried to get an alignment after installed vwr lowering springs.
View 11 RepliesMy wifes 08 santa fe awd has started to make a subtle clunking that I can feel through the gas pedal. At first I thought it was the AWD system but now it seems to be getting more frequent and noticeable.
I have searched and see that the front stabilizer bars have had issues with this year. Is the thump I am experiencing possible a sign of this?
If so how long would that be covered under warranty. The 3/36 has just expired on us.
I got the attached warning today on my 2010 LS600. The pedal felt a little soft after the warning. It kept popping off and on, dinging every 30-40 seconds.
I checked the brake fluid, it was full. Car has 36k
I had it towed in to Lexus and they couldn't get the warning to come back up.
I have a 2003 F150 manual 4WD with 4.6L engine and 165000 miles. When i am driving i feel a vibration in the steering wheel and on floor board that intensifies when i press the accelerator. I do hear an irregular humming that sounds like it is coming from the driver side front. I checked the wheel for any play but it was very tight. i check tie rod ends, ball joints no play. i recently changed both u-joints on the rear shaft and the bearing hub on the passenger side front. Also, the steering feels a little 'wobbly' when i make sharp turns. it almost feels like it is giving. What else should i check?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 F150 XLT SCAB 5.4L 3v Fuel that I drive Daily, it has 280,000 miles on it. While driving to work (70mph) my throttle became unresponsive and it felt like the transmission was downshifting. Made my way to the edge of the highway and placed truck into Neutral, then the engine quit. Tried restarting at which point would not fire. After letting the truck sit (while waiting for a tow) I decided to try to start it. The Truck did start and ran for only about 2 minutes and then quit. The Tow truck finally arrived and I tried to start again with the same problem occurring, stated and ran for about 2 minutes (no throttle response) and died.
Got the truck home and decided to remove the Fuel line from the filter to see if there was fuel flowing, which there was none and no pressure. Replaced the FPDM with a new one, old unit was corroded but not cracked (replaced it once before). Tried to start and would only crank with out any fuel flowing (still had it removed from the filter). Thinking it may be the Fuel Pump but have to drain the tank being that I just filled it this morning before it died. The problem is, how to drain the tank before lowering it if the Fuel Pump is not running??? What the Problem is or how to test Fuel Pump or drain the Tank?