Ford AOD in 1988 F150. It's my first time rebuilding a trans and after install will not roll in neutral. I guess this is part of the learning process but I really need to get this fixed.
View 9 RepliesMy low miles (under 50k) 1999 Ranger has a 5-speed manual transmission. One morning, I could not move it. The shift lever shifted, but the gears were locked. No forward, no reverse, and it wouldn't roll in neutral. Eventually, I popped the clutch, and, with a loud BANG! restored itself.
Background: I had rolled the car up tot the curbing in my driveway, so the wheels touched, then shut it off (in gear) and finally set the emergency brake. I'm guessing that this caught the gears in a way that caused the problem.
Yes, it's running just fine now. What happened?
I was wondering should I find metal in my pan after a rebuild on my AOD? It's been about 4 months since the rebuild and i took it in to have the fluid changed at another shop. Now the unit is doing fine but I did let the shop that did the rebuild know what was found.
View 14 RepliesI rebuilt my 4r100 myself. 1st time I re-installed it, I had no 2nd gear. All other gears worked fine. Drove it less than 2 miles.. slowly..
Took it back out, found i built the Intermediate Clutch wrong. Fixed. At the same time, found a stuck valve in the accumulator VB, Fixed that, at least i think I did. all the valves snapped back under spring pressure.
Put the trans back in, Drove forward, all forward gears work. Drove 10 miles normally, w/ some time spent in all speed ranges. Temps good, outside temp was 73F
M1 = i get good engagement and engine braking
M2 = I get 1st and 2nd, seems normal
OD = Normal shifts, 4th is a little soft, but always was.. TCC lockup good
OD (Cancelled) = Normal 1-2-3, with lockup in 3rd Worked the button multiple times, shifts down, and back up normally.
N = No movement, no creeping.. Normal.. as far as I can tell.
R = No reverse, or is binding in reverse, not sure. worse when up to temp.
P = Normal, no learching or creeping.. No stalling.
The OD light never blinked, so I don't think it is electronic..
Since M1 works and holds with engine braking. L/R clutch and seals are ok. Forward clutch is ok since i have ALL forward gears, No slipping that I can tell. no creeping in Neutral, so the clutches are not fried.. New fluid is still perfect. I'll have to re-pull the pan to see if there is anything on the magnet. I think it could be some stuck valves in the VB also.
Pulled transmission out and it needs to be rebuilt front to back. My motor is generally stock but I'm rolling on 37" tyres so I'm thinking a stall converter and a "performance" rebuild. Looked at "Monster in a box" from Monster Transmissions. Truck is used at tymes to haul cement and heavy bed loads.
View 2 RepliesSo last night my trans have out, going up a slight grade, all of a sudden the engine revved and I had no more 3rd gear. I've done some research, looks like rebuilding it is the only option. I've got my Mustang GT to drive in the meantime, so I am thinking of rebuilding it myself. The truck is an '07 F150 5.4 2WD.
View 7 RepliesI have a e99 7.3. had the transmission rebuilt a couple weeks ago by a local shop. have been getting some hard shifts between 2nd/3rd when lightly accelerating. Took it back already but they couldn't find anything. I am planning on taking it back again but what it is so it gets fixed right. What is causing this or what it might be? Should I be worried about having this shop try and fix this?
View 1 RepliesI have been having transmission problems in my 2005 Ford Escape due to my torque converter coming apart so I took it to a local transmission shop for a rebuild. After 2 days it was ready and I took it home today. I put it in reverse once and it was fine but the second time I tried to back out of my driveway it won't go into reverse. It will go forward though. His shop is closed and I am going to take it in tomorrow morning. I have a warranty but it says I am responsible for labor. Is this something I should have to pay to fix if it happened the same day I picked it up?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1997 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed manual. We are rebuilding the transmission ourselves, and taking on the task has been pretty hard. We are stuck at the input shaft. How to take the input shaft out? Do you need a special tool?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1989 ford f150 xlt lariat it has a 5.0 and a 5 speed and is 4 wheel drive. Any way I am looking into rebuilding the rear end of the truck the pinion shaft has a lot of play in it up and down and both outer axle bearings seem to have lots of play in them. I believe it is a 8.8 inch in the rear. Just wondering if there hard to rebuild or what it all entails I have never taken one apart before and want to know what I am getting into. I have access to a press and a pinion and carrier bearing puller. the axle bearings i have done tons of them but never had to pull out the carrier. wondering how to set turning torque and backlash etc... and torque specs for everything.
View 8 RepliesTransmission rebuild? I seen a few threads where people talk of it but no follow up. I've heard it takes special tools but then so does a lot of things we shadetree on our own....
View 14 Replies1994 E4OD Transmission.
Transmission was slipping terrible after vehicle warmed up. After feeling around for thoughts, it was suggested by numerous people that the transmission needed an overhaul.
Upon Disassembley the clutches were found to be excellent. They are actually thicker than the new ones in the kit. By .015" actually. Quite impressive considering they are 20 years old.
So now, I have kind of lost direction. If the original clutches are thicker than the new ones, and don't show signs of wear. What does that mean?
The fluid is pretty good, and there aren't fragments of metal. Nor is there any metallic shimmering to the color. It doesn't smell burnt or rotten either.
I have drained the torque converter and filled it with gasoline. I am going to spin it and hopefully knock any sediment loose.
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2004 Ford Taurus - transmission was going out last Aug - had it rebuilt (new seals and torque converter) got it back steering wheel was slightly off (1/2 inch) of being the center when driving straight. Took a while to get it back to the shop - life happens - took back today - said they did everything they could and really needs an alignment which they do not do - drove it home after hanging out at the shop for 5 hours. The steering wheel is now off 2 inches from center and the car is pulling noticeably to the right. Going back tomorrow - but they are saying that it was not them and that I need to pay for an alignment.
View 3 RepliesMy '01 f350 up and running the last 5 years. The truck has 130,000 miles on it and the transmission quit on me two weeks ago. My mechanic pulled the tranny and sent it to a very reputable rebuilder for a complete rebuild. My mechanic then reinstalled the tranny. I picked up the truck and when I paid the bill my mechanic told me that the rebuilder provided a new 4-plate torque convertor and that I would hear it rattle when I was at stop signs, stop lights etc. and that this was normal for these types of torque convertors. I have searched this forum and found all kinds of reasons for this rattle. None of which tell me this noise is normal or should be expected. I have no problem going back to my mechanic and discussing flex plate cracks, engine/tranny misalignment or any of the other causes...
View 2 RepliesI am about to purchase a 2001 F450 7.3L with a 6 speed ZF6 that has a slightly worn 2nd gear synchronizer. I will be rebuilding this transmission with a friend and was wonder if there is any documentation available to assist with the overhaul.
View 14 RepliesHad a front seal leak on my 2000 F250 V10 with 122000 miles. Since I've towed for years and the tranny had to be pulled I opted to just rebuild the whole tranny. I had problems from the beginning where it wouldn't shift into third and when I took my foot off the gas it would just go out of gear completely and just rev. After I stopped and started over, it would shift fine for the rest of the day.
Finally the O/D stem light started flashing and the mechanic did something to fix it. Since then it has shifted fine but when it went into overdrive the rpm would bump up and kind of slide into overdrive. Left the truck with the mechanic again for two weeks and it's better, sometimes revs and slides into overdrive not every time though.
My problem, besides the overdrive shifting, is it now takes forever to shift in to 4th gear. I have to take my foot off the gas to make it shift into 4th and overdrive won't kick in until 45 MPH. My gas mileage, while bad enough before all this, has now dropped another 2 mpg to around 7.5 to 8. I was thinking about taking it to a Ford dealer for some kind of analysis.
I have been having problems with my drivers side power window on my 06 Ford F-150. At first, it would roll down, but wouldn't roll back up, so I replaced the switch. After replacing the entire power window control switch, if you push the switch for the drivers window down, it will start to go down, then stop, and you have to press it about 20 times to get it all the way down. You can definitely hear the switch clicking off. All the other windows work perfect. I took it to get the oil changed and asked about it, and they said to change out the regulator, which I did, but the same thing happens. I checked the fuse and that was fine. Is there a relay or something I should check?
View 12 RepliesI had a rebuild done on my 2002 Accent. My question is now we get a code for the output shaft speed sensor. Would this have been replaced as part of the transmission rebuild?
View 2 RepliesAn independent mechanic rebuilt my 2001 Honda Accord transmission.
The first problem I had with my car shifting was when I tried to pass a car. The car kind of bucked and would not accelerate enough to pass cars. The fix engine light was on. I took it to a small town mechanic who did some diagnostics and said it was not the transmission. He reset the engine light but it came back on as I was driving home ( 150 miles away). On my next trip downstate ( 150 miles) I had my oil changed. As soon as I left the oil change place my car would not shift from 1st to 2nd gear consistently, and once it dropped into neutral then kind of slammed into second. The D4 light was blinking. This happened inconsistently, but I did not drive it more than 10 miles.
Being 150 miles away from home, I didn't know where to take my car. The local KIA dealership said they could get the diagnostic codes for me but could not fix it. After diagnostics they said the codes indicated some "sort of trouble with the transmission" but couldn't tell what. I called the closest Honda dealership and an independent transmission specialist. I gave both places the codes. Both said it sounded like a transmission problem but couldn't say for sure until they saw the car.
The transmission guy warned me that when people bring their vehicles in for a second opinion, the dealership always recommended very expensive full repairs that are not needed. He told me I should not drive the car, even though it was drivable, (since the problem was intermittent), so I had it towed in to him in the closest big city. He said he would check the car over ( I have a gas leak, some inconsistent electrical problems and my oil light had come on before I had the oil changed) to see if it was worth the price of a repair and call me. I made the 150 mile trip home and waited four days before I called him, since I hadn't heard him. When I called him, he said ,"the transmission rebuild was almost done". He said second gear was "burned out". I was ticked because he did not call me or give me any details ahead of time or put anything specific in writing for me. He said he could "take it back out" if that is what I wanted. I didn't know what to do, so I told him not to take "it" back out.
I picked up the car on Saturday and drove it 15 miles. It worked fine. The next day I drove the car a block and it did EXACTLY the same thing it did before I had it "repaired". The car would not shift from 1st into second.. then it kind of dropped into neutral then clunked into second gear and the D4 light was blinking. When I called him he said he would have to look at it to see what the problem could be. (electrical or something else).
i have a c6 in an off-road truck that seems to work fine but when getting up in rpm it will just act like it hit neutral. won't go in any gear. doesn't make any noise or anything. pulled it back checked fluid and it was a touch low so i topped it off. tried again and it went in reverse and forward good. no hesitation or noise. drove about half mile and it acted just like it hit neutral again. loaded it up brought it home and drove it off the trailer and in a barn.
I have had some say to check the filter and gasket. i did change it before it was taken out to drive. Been doing a lot of reading and haven't found anything close to this. its a 4wd trans with 205 t case 460 motors.
I'm wondering what transmission fluid is the best to use for my 73' f100? Also wondering if changing the Fluid would stop the tranny from slipping. When i start her up reverse works great pops in every time quickly, but when i go into drive nothing happens like its in neutral?? after awhile of sitting and pressing on the gas a few times it pops in gear but very slowly and in stages.
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