Ford Transmission :: Vibration Occurring During Deceleration - Pinion Shaft Play
Aug 15, 2012
I had some vibration occurring during deceleration and though it was either the slip joint or the rear u-joint because I could sense some movement back there.
After I replaced the u-joints and properly serviced the slip joint I still had the issue (although it was a little better). I now see that there is a little bit of play in the pinion shaft. I can't really shake it back and forth, but if I hit it hard upward it clearly has play.
What should I do next? I have read a bunch, but would like to get an expert to chime in.
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I removed my drift shaft to get balanced since I have felt a vibration at 55-60 mph. After removing the driveshaft I noticed there is some play in the output shaft when I grab a hold of the yoke on the transmission. The play is a slightly up and down. If my memory serves me right that should not be. Seal is not leaking but need diagram of this yoke off the output shaft. I know in past on other vehicles there is sometimes a crush washer. Also what is the torque specification for that output shaft nut?
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I was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
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On my ongoing project, I have a replacement trans out of an Explorer. I have swapped over the bracket and will be changing the shifter shaft, but I noticed that the new trans has what appears to be some sort of vibration damper mounted to the lower side of the tail shaft with 3 bolts.
It is just a bracket that has a cast weight mounted in rubber. It was not a mount of any kind as the only bolt connection is to the trans itself.
The trans I took out did not have one of these, nor can I find any mention of it in the factory manual. The Explorer I pulled the trans from was a 92, my Aerostar is a 91. It doesn't appear that this device will conflict with mounting.
It is possible that the whoever installed the trans that I have removed forgot to install the damper, or it is possible that it is used only on the Explorer but not on the Aerostar.
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I just finished my first MK4 steering rack replacement (don't work on too many VWs), and when I placed the steering shaft from the column onto the shaft from the rack and bolted it down, there was still some clearance (see photo). I was able to get the bolt tightened down ok, but the clearance is bothering me.
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I just bought a 5speed manual 2004 ford ranger 4x4 and when shifting usually upshiffter 1-2-3 I get a mi8ld clunk when I looked underneath I grabbed and can move the from drive shaft clockwise about 1/4 inch is this normal and if not how do I fix this?
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Well, I am getting a vibration In 4x4 99 f250 sd, pinion seals leaking and it has a little bit of movement. I have done a pinion bearing in a crown vic I had before. But not a dana 50. What am I in for, I searched but couldn't find a step by step , how long does it take a back yard guy.
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Trying to figure out my rear pinion angle should be. I still have vibration in the truck around 65-70 mph and sometimes around 80mph if i go that fast. I checked my rear axle last night and its at 8.5 degrees on top of the pinion snout is that correct???? And i forgot to measure the rear driveshaft angle but i can do that after work when i get home. Truck is a 2004 ext cab short bed 4x4...
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If I am going over 60MPH and let off the gas pedal (decelerate, no brakes) I get a bad rattle/vibration that shakes mainly the dash front. only happens when I let off gas pedal. As long as I am giving gas the Bronco runs smooth, no vibration/rattle at all.
I just changed..Front Rear Brakes, Repak Front Wheel Bearings. New Front Rear Shock (deutch Tech), new track bar poly bushings, greased all joints axles, changed rear diff fluid (bottle of transX diff additive 85W-90 gear oil). It did the same thing before all this too and it is intermittent (but more so than not). Sometimes it is really violent (feels like the whole truck is going too shake loose, other times it is fine.
I am going on a long trip Thursday and this is bothering me. Cant pin point problem. One note i towed a boat for the first time last sunday and the problem went away, i.e., more wait in rear? Alignment,tires,driveshaft? I really dont have time to do anything except minor adjustments before I leave.
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2004 F350 single rear wheel with 8" suspension (springs) lift and 37" tires all put on in 2005. Having low speed vibration 15-20 mph on accel and decel. Recently put on thick aluminum rear dif cover and vibration seems to have come since that install. Used Mobile synthetic fluid and 4 oz of Motorcraft antifriction additive and 4 oz of off brand. The Mobile fluid and antifriction have been in my barn for over 5 years in the winter and summer. I just changed the carrier bearing and all U-joints look good. Any chance the fluid and antifriction additive could be causing this? Truck has 66k miles.
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I have noticed, and this seems new and not a change in my driving habits, but when driving the prius c, and I am on rolling country roads, I like to loose speed as I go up hills if no cars are behind me, but here is the problem that has become noticeable.
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I bought a 95 Explorer with a known bad transmission, rebuilt it (broken band and chipped intermediate apply piston), put it back in, and now it's acting odd.
It wants to start in third. I can manually start it in second (first rarely works), shift it to drive at about 30, and it's fine. It shifts into OD, locks the TC, and when given a bit of gas kicks down to second. It downshifts during deceleration, but once I come to a complete stop, it'll try to start in third again. The only transmission code it's giving is for incorrect first gear ratio, there is an off and on engine code for the EGR pressure sensor as well.
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I have a 2002 Honda CRV-LX with over 200,000 miles. I'm experiencing a loud hum and vibration between 40 and 50 mph on acceleration and deceleration. It occurs when I'm driving straight or turning left, but goes away when I turn right.
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I just bought a used 2004 3.5l automatic Santa Fe. The vibration is most noticeable from 35 - 40mph during acceleration and deceleration. It's there at higher speeds but the car doesn't physically vibrate as much.
The vibration is there with the car coasting and transmission in neutral. It's there with the car coasting and the motor off.
The tires and wheels have been swapped out with other wheels and tires. No change.
The front driveshaft U-joint has been replaced. No change.
It seems to be in the drivetrain somewhere. I would like to fix it without slowly replacing everything.
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I had the universal joints replaced on my 1999 Ford Ranger now it vibrates badly starting at 45 mph and when I coast at 65 mph the vibration is very significant. The mechanic does not know what is causing this. I never had this problem before changing the U-Joints and I have 171,000 miles on the truck.
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2007 XLS Crew Cab 2wd. 60K miles When going through the 35 to 60 mile per hour range there is a vibration that seems to come from the drive shaft. Let off the gas and it goes away. After 60 mph it seems to be gone. I am thinking Trans support, motor support? One of the postings on this sight made me wonder about the transmission. By the way, I just bought this truck used and love it. Can I run flex fuel in the 4.6L engine?
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I have a vibration starting at 60mph. Its slight but there. I crawled under and found a very shiny rectangle of metal. Safe to assume I flung a shaft weight? It drives perfect around town just at freeway speeds.
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I thought that my front wheel bearing was bad but I removed it and it seems fine. The issue that I'm having is a continous vibration (noise) in the left front that gets worse with speed.The half shaft makes a noise at the point where the half shaft meets the steering knuckle and when I turn the shaft at the outer splines, the grinding noise is present. My question is, is the entire half shaft supposed to turn, even the outer diameter of it that would enter the steering knuckle, or is the shaft supposed to turn inside of that outer diameter? I hope I was able to explain my problem clearly/
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I purchased a 1964 9 inch from a Galaxie 500 to use in my 51 merc M1. The drums were seized onto the axle shaft and after trying everything, I was forced to break them up with a sledge to get them off. The axles turn freely and I have removed the 4 bolts that hold the shafts to the housing flanges. The axles should slide right out but the do not. Am I missing something? How do I pull them if they don't budge?
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I have a 1997 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed manual. We are rebuilding the transmission ourselves, and taking on the task has been pretty hard. We are stuck at the input shaft. How to take the input shaft out? Do you need a special tool?
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Can I take off the output flange on the tranny and use a slip joint, with out changing the tail shaft?
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