Ford Transmission :: Truck Moves Forward In Every Gear Including Park - Missing Shift Detent
Oct 31, 2009
Reverse band broke in my C4, I took it apart enough to get the rear band out and then reassembled. Everything to my knowledge was seated correctly and the front pump seated flush with the case when I reinstalled (which is supposedly a sign that it is all seated correctly). I adjusted the bands to spec and replaced the vacuum modulator and torque converter. These were the only things replaced besides the reverse/low band. Vac modulator was replaced to original (yellow band) as I was running an adjustable before. TC was replaced just because I did not the last time I had the trans rebuilt in 2003....decided to go ahead and R&R.
I got everything assembled, filled up with fluid and no leaks. I start it up and once i finished topping it off, the truck moves forward in every gear... including park! It also seems that I'm missing a shift detent. I have P, R, N, D, 2 but no 1. I disconnected the shift linkage and tried manually shifting from the trans and have the same issue.
I did not open up the valve body, just unbolted and replaced. When you start it up, it doesn't jump forward (while in park) but when you rev it up it sounds like the motor is under load. I've consulted my Haynes C4 book and an extensive google search and no way...
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My truck gear shift is stuck in Park (console type). I have been reading threads that discuss potential causes such as blown fuses, bad brake switch, bad brake shift interlock actuator, and even ignition switch. All fuses are okay. Before I try to get into all the other possibilities, I have a question around what the local auto parts worker suggested. He said that there is a small plastic piece that may have slipped down interfering with gear movement. This could make sense, especially since the white manual release lever doesn't seem to be moving.
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I have a 2005 ford expedition with 91000 miles, it has the 5.4 w/ the 4r70w transmission.
For some reason when my truck tries to shift into 4th gear, the RPM's climb to approx. 3000 rpms (meanwhile the truck is not gaining speed) and slowly drops down to about 1000-1500. once the rpms drop down fourth gear eventually engages and I can go about my business as normal as long as I do not let my mph drop too low.
If I turn O/D off, the truck drives perfect, minus not having overdrive.
If I come to a dead stop and put the truck in 2nd gear, with O/D on the truck drives great and it has good engine braking so I am assuming that the band is holding.
I took it to a transmission shop to have some diagnostic checks done, they told me that fourth gear was barely engaging and that they would have to tear apart the transmission to diagnose it further, I told them not to disassemble the transmission.
So I changed out the torque converter (which I assumed was "fourth gear") and changed out all the fluid, the fluid looked a little burnt but there was no debris in the pan but there was some silver material on the tranny pan magnet, and installed a new filter. and the problem still exists.
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I have a 99 passat wagon - it hasn't been shifting right - sometimes it won't shift out of park, other times it won't sift out of 1st... we are wondering if it is worth fixing or if we should find a different car...
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I have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3 and a 6 speed ZF transmission. My problem is that when you go to shift into any gear inc. reverse the transmission stays in 5th gear. I pulled the shifter and tried to do it from top of transmission it still stays in 5th. Any thoughts that I could possibly check?
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97 Silverado - 5.7 with 4l60e trans. truck will not shift into 2nd gear while driving. stays in first gear until rpm are high and shifts into 3rd. under hard acceleration will stay in 1st until let off gas then shift into 3rd. manual shifting results in same, no 2nd gear until selector is moved into 3rd then shifts into 3rd. Haven't got any trans codes, fluid change netted no change in performance, fluid was pretty dirty but didn't smell burned, and there were no metal shavings in pan.
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2009 corolla le won't shift into park. Disconnected linkage and works good. Lever at trans moves smooth in every gear except park.
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This morning my 2006 Dodge Dakota v8 auto decided to become a large paperweight. I started it up fine and let it warm up a bit (about five-ten minutes), then shifted into reverse to leave my driveway and it won't move. It just rev's and rev's like it's in neutral. I tried Reverse, Drive, and both low gears, but no luck.
Since it got very cold, it has been making a buzzing/whirring sound that seems to be coming from the belts. But that sounds would go away when the car warmed up. I thought I needed a new power steering belt (and still may), but that wouldn't keep the car from moving at all, right?
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1988 ranger, its a automatic 4x4 v6 and is leaking tranny fluid real bad. Truck barley moves because fluid comes straight out...
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My cousin has 1999 f-150 v8 automatic. Anytime you take it out of park you get forward gear. Was fine when parked just started happening on startup.
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72 Ford F250 with big block 460. after three years my truck is ready to run as soon as i get my new fuel pump in today. was hooking up shift linkage and noticed the shift lever will only click back two times and then goes all the way forward. I put a shift kit in the c6 and it was beautiful condition inside cant figure out why it would only shift to two places.
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I have a 95 F250 with 7.5 and E4OD. I was towing my Jeep and trailer out for the weekend a few months back (its been parked since) and heard some noise coming from the trailer. So at a stop light I put it in park with the engine running for a second, went to put it back into drive and it hasn't gone back into drive since. Reverse works perfectly. Fortunately I was able to back up onto the center divide, unload my Jeep and back the truck onto the trailer and tow home with my buddies Chevy. Anyways, its been dead since. Where I can start to look? None of the forward gears work at all.
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My truck will be running real good then all at once start missing so bad it shakes gear shifter,spits and pops and then goes back to running fine.
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So I drove my F150 to work as always, with no problems. I went to leave and it fired right up, but it wouldn't shift out of park. The emergency brake light was on even though the brake was not applied, the traction control light was on even though I wasn't moving, and the tire pressure warning light was on even though all tires are new and inflated properly. I removed the cables from the battery and brushed the contacts even though there was no grime on them, and when I went to start it, it just kept cranking without turning over. So I turned it to off and gave it one more shot and it fired right up, and drove like it was perfectly fine. Why this happened? I got 75k miles on it and have never had a problem...
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My son who is away at college, has a 04 F150 that has a center console and he can't get the truck to shift out of the 'Park' position. I told him to try and rock the truck back and forth and then try again...no luck.
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Early 2000 F250
Originally the truck would not go into any forward gear, but had reverse all day long. So I had a rebuild kit ordered (new bushings, seals, frictions, steels, a washer and flat bearing kit, a sprak kit, and the od piston)
After rebuilding it, taking my sweet time double checking everything, it will now go into forward gear but not reverse. So I dropped the pan. The small 3 bolt plate was torqued to spec. When I got to the third bolt in the smaller section of the valve body (upper valve body) I heard a click like maybe a valve returned to its place but I'm not sure. I removed the valve body and accumulator and all the valves were free and had tension. When I had it apart the first time one valve stuck for a split second but I never could get it to stick again.
Finding nothing there I uninstalled the tranny and took the barrel apart all the way down to the L/R piston and could not find anything wrong.
After the build and me running the truck for about 10-20 min there was metal on the magnet (part of the reason I took it all back apart) however I could not find anything worn or chewed up. Could have been the tc I prefilled with 2 quarts in stead of filling all the way.
When I initially rebuilt the 4r100 I took apart the pump to replace the bushing and seal but did not take apart the valves. I've heard the pump is directly related to reverse but I'm not sure. Could something gone wrong in the pump when I took it apart? How would I know? If I new all parts of the reverse system I could then test them.
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Have a 99 Ranger XLT, 4 cyl, manual transmission with 191K miles. Was running good as ever last night but went to start it this morning and throttle's stuck open, causing truck to move forward when in 1st gear. Even with clutch in, near impossible to get vehicle in or out of gear. Managed to get it into reverse, but truck was having none of it. What is the cause or causes of my trouble? Or how much the repairs might cost? I'm on the road so no chance of doing this myself.
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My son called me today to pick him up. His 98 S10 would shift into gear but wouldn't go forward or into reverse. New clutch 6 months ago, hoping something simple like low gear oil or worse?
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having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
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I was pulling into my driveway. I put the car in park, but when i went to get out of the car, it started to roll forward. When I finally got it stopped, I tried to shift it, and it wouldn't shift to any spot. Then it became stuck in between Park and Reverse. I can't move the gear shift.
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I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
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