I'm swapping a 90 E4OD into my 86 6.9 F350 and find my injector pump won't take the usual throttle sensor. I'm wondering whether the controller (from a 90 E350) cares about intermediate throttle settings or is it only worried about coast vs wide open.
My options appear to be rigging some sort of linear travel pot, or would limit switches with something cobbled together to give two resistances be enough?
I have a 1990 class C motorhome with a 460ci engine an a E4OD transmission, It shift pretty smooth, but it goes on overdrive mostly only when I go up a hill, and down shift as soon as I reach the top when it should be the opposite. I bright it to a tranny shop, they change fluid and filter and make road test on a plane road and find no problem.
The way I see it is that it shift 1-2-3 then I hit the OD button and it goes on 4, then, if I'm going up a little or asking for more power it upshift another gear(5th ) and when I coming back on a plane road it downshift to the 4th gear until I need more power. It doesn't look normal to me.
My 1990 F-250 with the 460 overheats when driving in overdrive. Driving a hundred miles will turn the trans fluid brown and the transmission is very hot even though it drives just fine. If I drive it out of overdrive I have no problems at all.
It all works fine except the overheating in overdrive, no flashing on the overdrive light. The tans shop is not getting a code, they tell me they have to rebuild the tranny.
I have been hoping this problem would go away but it hasn't. I drive a 1991 350 diesel with Banks turbo and transmission module. When we first bought the truck it was only a few thousand miles before we had to have the tranny rebuilt. It was fine for about a year or two when we installed the Banks turbo and then after about five thousand miles the torque converter flew apart and ruined everything inside the tranny.
After this second rebuild it seems to be doing pretty good all except for it wanting to shift in and out of overdrive for no reason. I can have the cruise set on anywhere from 50-65 and when I start up a VERY slight hill it will downshift to third. I know that this engine has plenty of torque to maintain its speed up these small hills without downshifting so something isn't right. On this last rebuild our mechanic contacted Banks about the trans command and they told him to wrap the exhaust pipe with insulation to keep some of the heat off of the module under there and that seemed to work some.
(It shifts better than at first except for going in and out). Another thing that might be interesting is when it was first rebuilt this last time it had a problem with jerky shifts and the tranny light would come on. Our mechanic had to replace some sort of sensor in the tranny that kept breaking. He did this about three times and since he wrapped the exhaust it hasn't happened again. I hope I made everything clear for everyone to understand.
I have a 78 F350 2wd With a 460. I want to install a 99 E4OD trans. I have the Trans it is rebuilt with all the upgraded parts. I was going to order the converter this week. I am not shure on the best programer to order and shifter to order.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1990 F250 with a 7.5 liter and an E4OD. It starting acting up a couple months ago. Tranny would seemingly go into neutral while on freeway. I figured trans was going out... After reading several threads I've decided to try changing the mlps first, got a new one at the dealer!!!. It is the updated one with the connector on the top. I'm currently waiting on a new pigtail from autozone (the original is in bad shape, wires frayed, insulation missing. Also I think when it started having issues we were having some serious rains, which may have caused this connect to get wet.
I believe a previous owner may have had the trans rebuilt at some point. The connect has 6 wires going in it and when I trace those wires back, two are spliced into one farther up the harness a bit. Looks like one is tied into a wire that goes to the solenoid harness. I'm hoping I can cut and splice the 6 wires into the new pigtail and be good.
For now, while I was under there I decided to pull the solenoid plug as instructed to make access to mlps plug easier... the lock is on the backside almost impossible to get to, I messed the plug up all the way around, but not fubarred. When I pulled the plug out, it was soaked in transmission fluid... Is that normal?
My tranny slips in drive and od when it is warmed up.It's fine for a few miles when it is cold.Did a quick search and it seems like it might be a bad mlps.
My question is, Will a bad mlps act up all the time or just when it's warmed up? Will a mlps and connector from a 91 tranny work on a 95 tranny? Don't really want to throw money at it if it will need a rebuild.
My 95 psd recently started shuddering on takeoff... Pretty sure its the torque converter. It has a full ATS tranny with 5 star t/c and all the goodies installed by the previous owner (warranty not transferable). Its only got about 25k on the trans but they have been far from easy miles.
Symptoms: If I hold the brake and keep the truck stopped while holding the throttle its totally smooth, not until the truck starts moving that the shudder begins. It shudders worse the more power i put to it. Does it in first gear and second gear takeoffs. Goes away at about 10 mph or once the speed catches up with the rpm.
I have an E350 1992 7.3l Diesel, with E40D. The transmission slips in the 3rd and OD position. Every time, if I want to accelerate it slips for a few seconds and then the drivetrain is correct connected. The shifting into another gear works properly, the transmissions slips by changing from free-wheeling into accelerating ( for example: at speed 90km/h and no changing the gear).
I have recognized that the oil temperature is getting higher now. That may an indication for additional losses in the transmission. What do I have to check?
I have seen a few threads about E4OD's and there valve issues just want to narrow down to a valve issue or if it needs a rebuild. I can shift threw all gears i just have lag going into 3rd. also when putting it in reverse it takes about 5 seconds to finally drop into reverse. This is also accompanied with P0782 2-3 shift malfunction.
View 6 Replies A while back I picked up a 1994 Bronco with a bad tranny for a flip. I recently picked up a 1993 E4OD that seemed to work well with low miles to throw in it.
I got it in the Bronco but it does not work right. If you put it in drive if feels like it's taking off in 3rd or 4th gear pull the shifter down one notch and it feels like 2nd gear pull it down again into 1st and no change. It bangs into reverse really hard. When up shifting manully it bangs pretty hard. No kick down at all under any circumstance and no converter lockup. I can't tell if it's in OD or third gear when at highway speed. OD button on the shifter has no effect but the light does go on and off.
I'm not an automatic tranny guy at all but it seems like an electrical issue. I was not able to drive the truck with the original tranny other than reverse (no bang) but the PO told me it was fine till it started slipping. I did test drive the donor truck and the new tranny worked correctly in it.
Being new to the process I need more detail and some of the basics. I'm comfortable with electronics and have the test equipment I just don't know the procedure. I'm guessing a bad connection/wire or something not compatible between the 1993 tranny and the 1994 truck.
1994 E350 Club Wagon 351w, E4OD Transmission. New MLPS, New VSS, New TPS, New Fluid, New Filter, 5 year old Torque Converter.
The Transmission dribbled a little bit from the front pump seal a couple weeks ago, I checked the level, it was a bit low. Topped it off with Lucas, the dribble stopped. I drove it successfully for another week. I took it on a 10 mile trip, and 5 miles in, it started slipping above, 35mph, I let off the accelerator, and the transmission "Caught up" and I drove 35mph the rest of the trip. I let it sit over night.
The next morning it acted as if nothing were wrong. I drove it some more, and the same thing happened. I parked it, and revved the engine up a bit, and it tried to MOVE in park, I put it in neutral and revved the engine, and it lurched as if it were still in 1rst gear.
This time I let it sit for 24 hours, and after work I successfully put 20 miles on it without missing a beat. It was shifting right, good solid connection between the gas pedal and the road, and I thought the problem was fixed, as the temperature the day before was -20, and it warmed up outside to 30 degrees above.
I parked it for a couple hours and went to go do the errands, and it wouldn't make it above 15mph. It even struggled to do that much. I put it in reverse, and it held great, no slipping at all.
Let it sit until the next morning, and it was better. I pulled the Codes, and it gives me a 63(7) TOT High, and a 62(9) Torque Converter Clutch. It may or may not be relative, but Cruise hasn't worked in about 6 months either. What am I missing here? What could possibly causing this trouble? Fluid is up and new.
My rig is a 1995 F-250 Powerstroke 4x4 with 150k on the clock and an E4OD. It has been well maintained and no major work performed aside from glow plugs recently... That was fun! But that's another story...
The issue: Irregularly and randomly over the last year or so the truck has had a problem going into drive. I'll hop in, put it in Drive and nothing. It's like its in Neutral. It is also the same in 1 and 2. If I put it in Reverse, I can feel it engage and the starts to go in reverse. When it has this drive issue, the only thing that I can do to make it go is to give it some fuel and idle it up. Then it slowly engages and its fine.
Last night it did this... But this time when I could only get it to go by putting it in first and then giving it fuel... It slowly engaged.
Overall its done this maybe five or six times over the last year and doesn't seem to be getting worse. Sometimes it will go for a month with no issue.
This has happened when its warm or cold so I'm not sure heat is an issue. About 10,000 miles ago the transmission was flushed / full service. Oh, and the ATF level is exactly where it should be. My biggest fear is that the transmission needs a rebuild. One local shop quoted me $4200 to rebuild it. What I'm looking for is to know if there is a simpler and cheaper fix. I'm not really interested in a rebuild, unless that is the only option.
Replaced Troque Converter, Truck runs engine runs fine transmission won't shift out of 1st gear.
View 2 RepliesI currently drive a 92 aerostar rwd with a 4.0 and auto transmission. I just bought a 97 4wd but the tranny is messed. will they line up? I heard maybe have to swap a cone where the transmission goes into the T-case....
View 3 RepliesI was wondering about swapping out the short OH console on a 2001 F350 Lariat with the longer one that has two doors for a garage opener etc? Are the clips on the base plate the same? I see the longer console shells on e bay for a little over 100 bucks which seems like a no brainer if it snaps in place of the shorty. Looks like the temp and compass slots are identical.
View 4 RepliesI just rebuilt my E4OD transmission in my 1996 F250 7.3L it has all new clutch packs torque converter and a shift kit. When I first put itback together it would not shift out of second cleaned mlps and shifts threw all the gears now. I took it out on the road to test it and this thing ran great shifted smooth and quick could not askfor any better but when Trans temp gets around 140-150deg it shifts hard and od light flashes. I have ordered a scanner to read the codes but won’t be in till later this week. What I could check in the meantime.
View 13 Replieshaving never been into an E4OD, I have a quandary. I have an F-350 with a 460 engine with the E4OD trans. the trans works fine, but wouldn't go into park. I pulled the pan and tail housing and found that the thrust washer behind the park wheel had broken and dropped down to obstruct the pawl from engaging. I have no problem in tearing into a C-6 on back, but the E4OD, I'm not so sure. I had considered just pulling the trans and replacing it with a used one. I can find all kinds of trannies, but NOT the '89 to '91 that I'm told is what is needed because of the electronics. I have been told that the '87 to '97 will work but I have to swap out the electronics? is this so, and how much of a mess is that to do? OR, someone told me that it is possible to use the 4X4 trans by putting on my tail housing? doesn't sound right to me, but what do I know? any pointers????
View 5 RepliesThis has been a problem since I got the truck. It's a 1996 F150 5.8 4x4. It's got about 140,800 miles on it; had about 139,000 when I picked it up. Not sure if the trans has been rebuilt or not. I'm the 3rd Owner. It doesn't matter what temperature it is outside or how far my foot is down on the pedal... Just about every 1-2 shift is accompanied by a little kick/jolt. Going slow..(coasting, about 15mph) and it shifts into 2nd, usually the jolt is harder than hell!
Same goes for when I'm going about 25mph and I put the pedal to the floor It downshifts then comes back up to 2nd gear and wow. It jolts, shakes and shudders. Sometimes (rarely) I don't feel anything when it shifts. But it ONLY and always happens 1-2. not 2-1 either. Furthermore, when I go to put my truck into Reverse it kind of slams into it, with a clunk noise. All fluids have been changed recently and I also put "Lucas Oil Transmission Fix" in it and that didn't seem to change anything. What is going on internally?
I have a 1997 f250hd that shifts into 4th at about 25mph and lugs the motor down, then shift back to 3rd (maybe its 2nd and 3rd). It will keep shifting back and forth until you get up to speed, or if i'm in town i will put it in second.
No codes but the tranny fluid is dirty. I changed the filter the other day but didn't have time to flush it as it was getting dark and the line into the tranny was pretty rusted and starting to strip. Also there was no burnt smell. I'm planning on taking it in to have it flushed this week.
I've got an E4OD trans out of my 1994 F150 4x4. It has 145,000 miles on it. The reason why it came out was because the front seal was leaking terrible. Also the electrical connector for the transmission melted and there is a hole right there now. Other than that the trans shifted fine and worked when I drove it. My question is what can I do with the trans?
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