I have a 2006 F-150 SuperCrew King Ranch. The 4R75E automatic transmission has some sort of fault. In overdrive...intermittently...it stumbles or shudders for a second or two. By feathering the throttle...it calms down. If the overdrive is cancelled, the shifting from 1 to 3 is fine. The fluids and filter have been changed.
View 6 Replies06 with 5.4 and AT. It shudders in overdrive during light to no acceleration. I was told it was the converter. I was also told by a technician in a trans shop that the Trans-X additive for hypoid oil in a posi-trac was ok to use even though the back of the tube says "Not safe for automatic transmissions". Do this is accurate or if the guy was just blowing smoke?
View 5 Replies2001-F150 5.4 Eng. bucking/stumble. I think my problem is slightly different than what I am reading about. Here is what I get (125k miles):
* Engine only bucks/stumbles intermittently and not at idle or at harder acceleration (this bucking is really harsh and makes the truck feel like a learner trying to drive a manual transmission and it is jumping down the street). The engine stumble is not a regular timing such as a cylinder going out and staying out for a period of time. It is quite a random pattern to the jumping
* Originally thought it was humidity related, but now I realize it happens in any climate
* No stumble in neutral at any rpm... only at a stop if I put it in a power brake load.
* When the stumble shows up, it seems like the throttle is around 10-25% (my best guess)
* Sometimes goes days without issue, but sometimes every ride and virtually every acceleration.
* Normally no stumbling at highway speeds, unless going up a hill.
* Every time it stumbles, it can be eliminated by either backing off on the accelerator some, or hitting the accelerator harder.
* No engine codes or CEL has ever come on
* Fuel mileage appears to be the same before and after the trouble started
Here is what I have done to try to correct it:
-> Fuel related (bad gas)... tried to run the tank as close to empty and fill it with fuel from different stations... when this didn't work, I have added HEET to it to dry up any water in tank.
-> Fuel delivery... replaced the fuel filter... seemed to work for one day, but then the gremlins came back.
-> Fuel delivery... ran multiple injector cleaners through tanks of gas.
-> Intake... replaced the filter.
-> Electrical... I don't believe this is related, but my battery died... parts store tested the system and stated the alternator was bad... replaced it, and took the old one to the parts store for bench testing and it was 100% OK... even thought the old showed OK, I left in the new one as a precaution. Only other item was a set of plug changes around 30k miles ago... I think I put in the super duper Bosch plugs with a lifetime warranty.
Current thinking and items I don't understand:
A) The bucking is so severe, it appears to be a random harsh loss of either fuel or ignition. A component that has failed electrically should give me a fault code with this level of severity. No trouble codes or indicators to electrically sense this disturbance...
B) For the fuel path, the most likely item is bad gas and I emptied my tank by running it as close to empty as possible and then used different gas and HEET to eliminate water. THIS MIGHT STILL BE THE CAUSE???
C) Another one for the fuel path is an intermittent fuel pump electrical connection or a weak pump from a pressure point. But if this is the cause, then why does it dissappear upon harder acceleration?
D) One last fuel thought is injectors... perhaps one or more have a range of delivery that they don't work properly... but this doesn't make much sense as at idle and harder accels are fine
E) From an ignition standpoint, perhaps I have failing COP's. I have not just gone out an replaced them due to my limited budget and the difficulty I read about changing them. Again, if one of these is failing in an either open or short condition, the computer should set a code for a misfire for the related cylinders. I get nothing. Hence my hesitation in making this change so far.
One thing i don't understand from the various posts is that the cops can fail under loading. what makes this happen as electrically, i don't think they can detect a load or not? it is hard for me to also understand why my truck would allow me to back off on the throttle or hit it harder and the issue disappears.
My girlfriend has a 2006 Suzuki Reno which is the hatchback version of the much more common Forenza. Mechanically they are the same car. I began to look into this car soon after I began dating her and realized it was simply a rebadged Daewoo product. I attacked the timing belt replacement early on as she had no idea when it was last changed. The old belt was all cracked up and in dire need of replacement when I did the job.
Since then it has just been a lot of small stuff, all things these cars or known for. We are now getting a new symptom. The car sometimes hesitates/stumbles when trying to maintain or gain speed at highway speeds, especially going uphill. There are no check engine lights and I have checked for pending codes. There are none. I figured a misfire would show up but no codes of any kind are present. There was an issue a while back with the evap system purge valve which I cleaned and reinstalled. I don't know if this could be the issue but it isn't throwing the P0496 code anymore like it was before I cleaned it.
These symptoms are very intermittent. She used to always put like 3 gallons of gas in the tank when it got near empty and never fill it up. I got frustrated and told her to fill it to the top at least every once in a while. The first time she did this these symptoms started. I wondered if she busted some varnish loose inside the tank that had not been in contact with fuel for some time. We put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank and it cleared up for a while but returned a few tanks later. It seemed to start as she was nearing the end of a tank and continued for a bit after the fill up.
I am getting the feeling this might be a fuel related issue and not the ignition system. I already looked to see if her fuel filter was replaceable and it is not. It is an in tank one that requires the tank be removed. I would do the fuel pump if I had to do this. My other thought is maybe the fuel pump is getting iffy. I am going to do a loaner tool on a fuel pressure gauge if this happens again as I am wondering about that. Also, I haven't looked into a fuel pressure regulator but that might be something to look into.
My son has a 02 - 2 wheel driver xls. His over driver light is blinking on and off. what the problem might be? He has about an 80 mile round trip drive today before he can get it to the dealer. Would he be damaging the vehicle if he drives it that far?
View 1 RepliesMy '89 Ford Crown Victoria Country Squire is a 5.0L with the AOD transmission. Yesterday, I slowed from 40 mph to 25 mph to turn on my street. As I drove up the street's slight incline I noticed the acceleration was sluggish as if the transmission had not downshifted from 4th to 3rd. When I stopped to back into my driveway, the engine shuddered and stalled as if it was hooked to a manual transmission and I had released the clutch with the shifter in an upper gear. My wife had to push the car into the driveway (she is a Minnesota farm girl ).
Now the engine starts normally with the gear selector in Neutral. It shudders and stalls the moment I try to put it in any gear or Park. The engine will not start in Park, but once again, balks as if I was trying to start a manual transmission equipped car without depressing the clutch or taking it out of gear.
The transmission and engine had been working perfectly before the above sudden problems. My guess is that the transmission is somehow stuck in overdrive.
Is there any way to knock it out of 4th gear? Why would the engine start in Neutral but not Park? It is the original AOD transmission with over 230K miles on it, but this car has at least nine lives and I am hoping this is another serious problem that turns out to be not so serious!
I have a 1995 Explorer 4x4, and starting last month i have been having an intermittent problem with bang shifting, the only time the bang shifting occurs is when the overdrive off light flashes, the only time the O/D Off light flashes is after driving the interstate or driving around town on hot days, after a few days or a few weeks the light turns off and its shift normal and no bang shifting, but i have a new problem now, the O/D Light off started flashing last night after driving the interstate and I noticed on my way home that it wont shift, it hit 4000rpm and i had to tap the break and accelerate again to make it shift, I went to AAMCO and they wont give me the codes the only thing they said is they want to do a soft parts rebuild, and something about hte gear ratio being off, i dont have the money to spend for a new trans or have one rebuilt, i would like to fix this myself.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F-150 4.2L 2WD LS with 102k miles. At 95k miles, the clutch slave cylinder started leaking fluid. So, I had my local garage replace it. And while they were at it, put in a new clutch. That is when the trouble started.
I cannot let the clutch out like I used too. When letting out the clutch from a dead stop,the rear end now shakes, shutters, and if it is really bad, the rear end starts bouncing. To minimize the shakes, I have to keep the engine below 1000rpm until the clutch/1<sup>st</sup> gear is fully engage. It is worst when there is a load on the truck like going uphill, or a sharp turn for a dead stop. After the truck gets rolling, I don’t notice the problem when shifting gears.
I have been babying it for 7k miles and it has not improved. What is wrong? Did I get a bad clutch job?
The trans in my motor home has made a growling or slight grinding metallic noise after it shifts into 3rd gear. It only does it for maybe 3 seconds and it doesn't seem to affect the operation. Only way I can describe it is that it grinds, and shudders then goes away. I have towed my race car all this year and it has not caused any issues at all. I am planning on driving out west next year and would like to figure out what the deal is before I hit the road. Also if a rebuild was in order what improvements can be made during a rebuild?
View 1 RepliesI have an '01 F350 super duty dually, 7.3L, auto trans. Over the past weeks my overdrive light on the gearshift would flash intermittently, maybe once every couple weeks. I chalked it up to a prior theft attempt where the steering column was damaged, and had turn signal/hazards issues after that.
Over the past few days my reverse gear has taken longer to engage, and is hard getting into the higher gears at speed. As of yesterday, reverse is out and won't shift out of second. Fluid level is good and clear. Could this be a PCM issue, or some sensor or relay?
When pulling my trailer away from a stop transmission shudders in first gear, feels like t c. Once it changes to 2nd, it clears up. Getting ready to take in for service. Any thoughts? Still under bumper to bumper warrenty. 2008 6.4 auto f 350. 26k miles
View 4 RepliesI and a friend both have 1997 ford F250 Diesel pickups and both at about 140,000 miles have had problems with the transmission going out of overdrive and changing gears at higher than usual rpms. The overdrive light blinks and if the pickup has a day or two it will reset the computer and function normally. Any fix easier than a new transmission???
View 5 RepliesWe recently purchased a 1991 Minnie Winnie (Winnebago) which rests on a 1990 Ford E350 chassis. It only has 58k miles. While driving on the freeway or highway, the Overdrive starts to go in and out; downshifting and upshifting willy nilly. It has a manual button for turning off the Overdrive and when I do this, it stops jerking and drives smooth. But, of course, this effects the gas mileage significantly. I took the Minnie to a garage recommended by the company I purchased the Minnie from. They replaced the manual Overdrive switch and replaced the transmission with a rebuilt Ford transmission.
We got it back and it was okay for one trip but by the second trip, it was doing the same thing again. I took it back to the garage and since it was under warranty, they put in a new rebuilt transmission, another new Overdrive switch, a new fuel sensor and checked the wiring but it still had the same problem. So they sent the onboard computer board to Ford who rebuilt it. The guys at the garage thought for sure this would resolve the problem. It didn't. They have exhausted their ideas as to what is causing this problem. We love the Minnie Winnie and other than this problem it is in beautiful condition.
I have a 95 f150 5.0 with a 4r70w Trans. What to check now no overdrive Trans shifts and drives great but no od the od off light on shifter is lit up and just never goes into overdrive solenoids have been replaced and new shift lever and button where do I go from here is not throwing any codes...
View 7 RepliesI need to decide what to do with my transmission. I just acquired a 2007 F150 Supercrew 2WD 4.6L truck with 184k miles. While in Drive the automatic transmission (4R75E) runs ok thru 2nd gear and then; if O/D is on it will rev without engaging and if O/D is off it will just stay in 2nd gear.
I was hoping the problem was a broken retainer clip, as are so many others. So I removed the pan, and the valve body. All of the retainer clips seem to be fine, but, there is a lot of metal sludge on the magnet of the pan. See pic.
Should I buy a complete rebuild kit and take the tranny out of the truck? Is it just a problem with the valve body? I need to get the truck going so I can get to work. I am uneducated in the transmission department.
I have an unmodified 2000 Excursion 7.3. with 239000 miles on it. My transmission started to slip in overdrive. I could turn off the OD and it would run fine. I was in upper Wisconsin headed home to Georgia and figured the cold had something to do with it. Drove sixty mile with OD off turned it back on shifted fine and drove 750 mile to Paducah, KY stopped to eat and it started down the road and it slipped again.
Drove 45 miles stopped added 8 oz of tranny fluid and it drove fine back to a friends house and after I dropped him off and headed home it started again. The tranny is serviced every year, new filter, drained torque converter. I use Amsoil Synthetic ATF. I have used the truck to tow a 10000lbs trailer over 65000 miles. I was not towing when this occurred. What is going on? I guess what I am asking is my tranny about to become toast or am I looking at something that can be fixed easily.
My 2010 F-150 with 170,000 miles - 6R80 Transmission is starting to chatter while shifting into overdrive. It lasts about two seconds and then all is well. I'm sure it will get worse.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1993 Aerostar 3.0L, automatic. The transmission has started dropping out of overdrive into drive while at speed. It's very inconsistent as sometimes it will drive without incident and sometimes it will barely go into overdrive and then drop back out and remain in drive for an extend period of time. I changed the fluid/filter/gasket thinking it was just overdue for changing but no luck. The fluid level is fine, perhaps even a little high. Fluid looks clean on the stick, so I don't think it was a lack of draining enough fluid. The problem seems to be more pronounced when warmed up.
Also when cold, I've had an issue with it stalling while taking off from a stop. I wouldn't necessarily relate the two problems, but someone mentioned they thought they might both be a symptom of a slipping torque converter or something. But the stalling issue seems to go away when it's warmed up.
Also had an issue with the van not wanting to start when damp. But I attributed this to water getting on the coil or plugs or something. What I could try before taking it to a shop and risking getting taken?
My 1994 Ranger keeps shifting in and out of overdrive. It will go into OD easily, but it keeps downshifting, then shifting back up constantly. If I go up hill, if will downshift and stay in drive, but on a flat stretch, it wont stay in OD. It works fine when its cold, but after it warms up, then the shift problem begins. What do I do?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 with auto lock 4x4 and a automatic transmission. The problem I am having is after setting for about a week I drove it and 1st to second shift normally but when the RMP's/MPH hits time ti shift to third I get RMP increase and no third. I have shifted it manually 1 then 2 and into drive same result RMP's increase just like it is in neutral.
Miles on trans is about 120K have been serviced about 10K ago with no poor color or smell. Mechanic said transmission and filter looked good no metal or junk in oil. I drive down the road and it shifts from first into second then about 35-40 it hits what should be third but nothing free RPM's. I let it slow down to below 35-30 second kicks back in and away we go again until it's ready to shift into third.
I have been told possible speed sensor problem, possible other sensor problems looking for leads on where to look and what items to check. Just had Shop Mechanic drive it and he was baffled for everything looks good that he checked such as oil, and how it drove until it tries to shift into third. No over drive light flashing or anything and no engine codes showing at all everything clean in memory.
I have a 1990 class C motorhome with a 460ci engine an a E4OD transmission, It shift pretty smooth, but it goes on overdrive mostly only when I go up a hill, and down shift as soon as I reach the top when it should be the opposite. I bright it to a tranny shop, they change fluid and filter and make road test on a plane road and find no problem.
The way I see it is that it shift 1-2-3 then I hit the OD button and it goes on 4, then, if I'm going up a little or asking for more power it upshift another gear(5th ) and when I coming back on a plane road it downshift to the 4th gear until I need more power. It doesn't look normal to me.