Ford Transmission :: Small Leak Around Tail Shaft Seal
Oct 25, 2015
I got a fmx mated to 351w, trans was on back of a 302 and no problems other than small leak around tail shaft seal but shifted great. Now I decided to install mildly built 351w so figured it'd be a good time to build tranny. Installed after build and immediately it was slipping. Pulled trans out took it back to shop and he said the forward seal was blown. Installed again, after about 15 miles same result! What could be causing this. It is fine in reverse, but slips bad in forward gears.
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we have a 97 dodge neon soc that keeps leaking at the cam shaft seal. it has been replaced 3 times now? It keeps working it's way out and leaks oil.
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Can I take off the output flange on the tranny and use a slip joint, with out changing the tail shaft?
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I'm trying to replace my transmission output shaft seal on my 2wd and I can't seem to get the seal removed. I couldn't find anything to rent from O'rielly's or Advance Autoparts that would work. It's in there really tight ....
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair. I can't afford that at this time. I put in Valvoline Maxlife for older cars, sealed for couple mnthsnow its leaking again. Its not PCV. Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner"...
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On my ongoing project, I have a replacement trans out of an Explorer. I have swapped over the bracket and will be changing the shifter shaft, but I noticed that the new trans has what appears to be some sort of vibration damper mounted to the lower side of the tail shaft with 3 bolts.
It is just a bracket that has a cast weight mounted in rubber. It was not a mount of any kind as the only bolt connection is to the trans itself.
The trans I took out did not have one of these, nor can I find any mention of it in the factory manual. The Explorer I pulled the trans from was a 92, my Aerostar is a 91. It doesn't appear that this device will conflict with mounting.
It is possible that the whoever installed the trans that I have removed forgot to install the damper, or it is possible that it is used only on the Explorer but not on the Aerostar.
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I'm trying to get to the manual transmission input shaft seal on my 01 GTI w/12V VR6. I've removed the 3 bolts surrounding the input shaft but the metal shroud underneath the 3 bolts seems to be adhered tightly in place. You can see the 3 bolt holes and metal shroud in this photo: [URL]
Am I on the right track in trying to remove that shroud? If so, how do I loosen it?
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair $800 I cant afford that at this time. My question is: can this product be tried as as temporary fix or if it works? Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner.
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I noticed pool of oil yesterday morning, felt engine oil has leaked. Did oil change as it was due, the mechanic said the leak doesn't seem big enough, still overnight there was again lot of oil leaked, I kept a pan below to capture it. Checked it at auto shop near me and they said it is transmission fluid leak and probably due to driver side axle seal leak. I am going to take it again tomorrow to fix. How much do you think it will cost to fix if this is right diagnosis? This is 2005 4 cyl Ford escape with 150k on it. As per them if it is axle leak it will probably more of labor (2 hrs) than seal price.
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This is a photo of my '79 F250 4x4 rear axle (Dana 60 full floater) this seal will leak in a few miles ..what I need is the part number of a replacement seal made like the one in the lower photo ..it seems that Ford no longer has this seal.
Notice the increased distance from the bearing to the sealing lip in this photo ..the sealing lip on the new seal in the upper photo lies almost on the bearing, this one just barely engages the seal surface on the axle stub. I can machine the bearing pocket deeper to cause the seal to move farther onto the sealing surface, but that would also cause the bearings to be closer together, and may cause problems there.
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Noticed fluid under the car two days after my dyno run but assumed it was from excess GumOut. I ran 3 tanks of fuel and the car is dripping fluid so the GumOut is not the problem. Closer investigation lead to fluid build up around the drive shaft on my passenger side. The driver side fits flush with the transmission housing but the passenger side has a gap.
Is the gap normal? It looks strange, kinda like the shaft is sliding out from the transmission. Again, the left sits flush. There is a small rubber gasket between the shaft and the housing. My passenger side has a 1/4 inch gap from the shaft to the housing and there is no rubber gasket. The undercarriage is soaked now. I will fill up THE transmission with fluid and take it to PTP.
What is the problem? Bad seals? Is there something missing? Did the dyno mess me up?
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 5.4 Triton motor with a Transmission Leak. I have drained the Transmission, replaced the Transmission pan gasket and filter. The auto parts store also had me purchase the Torque Converter bearings/seal along with enough transmission fluid and a bottle of Lukas Transmission fix. Do I really need to replace the bearings/seal if I have everything else already ?
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I had the abs come on on dry pavement.. I changed the front ring gears,, Bought 2 new axles with ring gears all new on there.. fixed the issue.. Now i have a oil leak--transmission oil at the driver's side axle.. Is that the seal there in the trans that should be replaced? difficult? Why leak now if it wasn't leaking before..
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Well, the ac in my truck has been less than exciting since I've owned it and its time to address it before another trip.
I crawled under last night to explore the Ac clutch air gap and found that the shaft seal is leaking and clutch is grooved pretty bad and covered in oil.
I'm thinking it's time for a compressor, clutch, orifice tube, expansion valve and reciever/dryer. Does that about sum it up? I haven't messed with AC systems much outside of my simple jeep system that was as easy as two seals and recharge in my garage to fix it.
Do I need to flush the lines out? Should I do that at all? Motor craft worth the cost over something like four seasons? Its almost twice the cost but in the end if something goes I'm further downstream after freon etc to charge it and the possible shop charge if I pay to have to done.
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I have a 2006 sonata 3.3 with auto trans I'm having trouble with fluid leaking from the passenger side axle seal. I have already replaced the seal with a Hyundai seal and it is still leaking. Not as bad as before but it leaks onto the exhaust and smells really bad. The transmission is not overfull...
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For what it's worth I have been feeling a bit of a tug for 3 weeks. That's about 150 miles or 5 times driving. Installed new sway bar damper.
Pulling into the driveway the heard a ting, and look to find the inner seal of the hub spinning on the stub shaft!
An exploded view of this front end hub/bearing/brake assembly?
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I replaced the seal the other day on my ranger because I noticed my fluid disappearing. Went ahead and changed the filter and fluid as well. Flushed the system, and I go back to my truck tonight and there's a huge puddle of trans fluid. And the output shaft seal is once again, up against the drive shaft. I've spent like $150 on trans fluid since Friday, and $1000+ to get the truck running again last month, so pardon me if I get edgy about her.
99 2.5 auto. I changed the trans pan gasket too. No leaks from it.
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I have noticed a few drips coming from the rear axle input shaft where the drive shaft connects. It has only done it once and there is no residue on the trailer hitch so I know it didn't dump everything on the road. If change this seal, how difficult is it and do you have any information which might make it easier.
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I'm replacing my clutch components in my 89 Ranger with an M5OD transmission. While I'm doing it I'm going to replace the input shaft seal on the transmission. I'm looking for the torque specs for the housing that holds the seal.
Also, should there be any play on the input shaft? My transmission has never made any noise but I noticed some slight play in the shaft.
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I took the front axle shafts out a couple months back and remember NOT seeing any differential fluid in the axle shaft housing. But then when I took the tire off tonight.. I noticed diff fluid leaking from from the axle shaft dust seal ?
1. I didn't think diff fluid flowed up near those front dust seals ?
2. That's a brand new dust seal so I'm guessing some debri must be in the connection causing the leak ?
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Had a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
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