Ford Transmission :: Reverse Go Out Completely On Tranny
Jul 12, 2016
I ran into an issue on my rebuild. I have a 1978 F-150 Ranger 302 V8 2WD Automatic. (Just to makes things easier) back to the point. I had the reverse go out completely on the tranny, and have not had any luck what so ever finding another I could buy.
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Rebuilt trany after losing all gears filled the tranny and while cycling through the gear everything seemed to fine took it around the block topped off the fluid and went for a drive and it will not shift out of second and i lost reverse. What did i do wrong?
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Went for a drive today in my Wifes 2003 F-250 5.4 automatic, Parked it and went for a hike, came back, started the truck ,put the it in reverse and it was running real rough.Put it in Drive and still running rough, figured i would put the truck in low and see what happens.It ran fine.Got home and did a visual inspection on the tranny, didn't see anything that jumped out at me.The fluid was fine. What this might be?
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2000 F150 Lariat, XC, 2WD, 5.4L, 4R70W
I don't know if this all started right after I got back from towing a 3500# lathe + 2000# trailer back from Texas a couple weeks ago or if there might have been some slight symptoms before. I do know that this really got bad a couple days ago and I haven't driven the truck since then.
So, here's what is happening. I noticed a few days before that when I would back out of a parking space, the truck didn't seem to go right into reverse. It was as if it was in neutral, but as I was reaching to jiggle the gearshift lever, it would engage and I could back out just fine. All forward gears, and shifting, have been fine all along, including lockup. I kind of wondered if the shift linkage had somehow moved and was on the edge of being in the right spot, so I was going to have a look at it one evening soon. Then a couple days ago, I went to back out of a parking spot at work and it wouldn't go anywhere.
Just acted like it was in neutral. Put it in drive and it engaged just fine, then back to reverse and nothing for a few moments before it finally engaged. Then, as I was backing up, it acted like you might expect a limited slip that was not slipping to behave. But, that was right before I put it in drive and went home. After I got home, I tried it out some more and found that in reverse, it just wouldn't go anywhere unless the truck rolled a little bit. I don't know if the rolling really had anything to do with it or not, but the driveway is on a slight incline, so it happened, and then the transmission would engage. But, when it did start to back up, even straight, at first it acted like it was under a load, then when it started to move, it bucked really badly. Put it back in drive and all seems fine.
There are no codes set. Trans fluid is full, and doesn't smell or look bad. I've searched for reverse shudder, and other stuff, and there are threads about the TC, about no reverse at all, and a bunch of other stuff, but nothing like this that I found.
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I'm wondering what transmission fluid is the best to use for my 73' f100? Also wondering if changing the Fluid would stop the tranny from slipping. When i start her up reverse works great pops in every time quickly, but when i go into drive nothing happens like its in neutral?? after awhile of sitting and pressing on the gas a few times it pops in gear but very slowly and in stages.
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This weekend I replaced the transmission in my 2000 12v vr6 5 speed golf. Got In drive around block going through each gear all seemed fine. Then I tried reverse and couldnt find it. Seem like it reverse was more like 5th cause car would try and move forward. I have the new style shifter and the bearing is quite a bit beat up. However if I in engine bay operating the gears directly on shift paddle I still can't seem to find reverse. Is there some kind of lock out or what could I be missing. I tried adjusting the cables but that seemed to make things worse not better.
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I have an 86 f350 with a 4 speed manual transmission, I am trying to figure out how to check transmission oil and rear end, and clutch.
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My 1.8 Turbo runs great, but when I am backing uphill (standard 5 speed trans), it makes a grinding noise. Is my tranny bad?! Or what is this? Never have a problem with any of the other gears...
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My 02 trans with 189k miles on it has lately started not going into park completely. Every once in a while it will feel like it is in park, but when i get out of the truck it starts to roll away, and the park pawl can be heard ratcheting. The shift tube screws are tight, as is the tube itself and the shift lever. Does this sound like the trans will have to come out?
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I have a 2002 F150 Super crew with a 5.4 and a 4R70W tranny. The issue I am experiencing is when the truck is driven where the tranny has shifted through all it's gears and cruising at say 55 mph, when depressing the accelerator pedal it either downshifts of something unlocks making a shuddering sound which sounds like when you run over rumble strips on the side of the road. The shuddering only happens for maybe a second at the most. If I am on the accelerator pedal when it up shifts or locks back up it makes the shuddering sound again. The harder the unlocking / locking or downshifting / up shifting happens the harder and longer the shuddering is.
This shuddering happens at the very last transmission function which happens in the transmission during it's normal operation. Other tan this issue the tranny shifts and operates excellent.
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I have a '78 F250 4x4 with the 400 engine and C6 automatic tranny in it. All of the sudden, it won't shift as I'm driving. It will go into reverse, drive, 2, 3, when I'm shifting, stays in the same gear all the time while I'm driving.
I was looking around and I found a hose that I think goes from the top of the tranny to...nothing. A friend said it's a vacuum hose that should go from the shift modulator to the carb. Well, I can't figure out where it should connect to the carburetor. There is a hose towards the front of the carb that was cut off and is plugged with a bolt, but that's been like that since I bought the truck 3 years ago. So if that's where the hose SHOULD go, then something else must have caused the tranny to give up on me.
Tranny has been acting fine until now. And I'm sure that hose should go SOMEWHERE!
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Been working on tightening up the 3 on the tree assembly because shifting has become troublesome; not wanting to engage gears completely, tough to go from 1st to second and so on. I have already adjusted the linkage per the shop manual with no improvement and found that it was not misadjusted. One of the first tasks is to replace the bushings from the shift rod to shift level under the hood though the bushings have some play but don't look that bad.
I have noticed the amount of play in the column when in neutral seems excessive, between 2nd and 3rd I can move the shifter about 2-3 inches up or down from center without feeling any tension toward a gear. This I think is the shift collar. Before I go tearing into the column, after replacing the shift collar was the amount of play significantly reduced?
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I have a 71 F250 4x4 with the 435 and recently had the tranny out to replace the output shaft i believe its called, and other than the shaft it seemed all was well. Shortly thereafter it became impossible to shift it into 4th gear without it grinding. I am able to minimize it by double clutching and keeping the rpms right, but the grind is unavoidable and its only 4th gear, all others shift fine. I was hoping there was a way to adjust the clutch but if not am i going to have to pull it back out and look at the fork and gears? But like i said, we just had it out and the fork and gears seemed fine.
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I have rebuilt my transmission but it keeps burning up reverse high clutch plates. It has burned up two sets so far. I am thinking that it might be something stuck in the valve body.
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I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
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I have a 2009 that seems to have issues in the lower gears, I think that I have a transmission issue.
When I'm coming to a stop, I feel the transmission downshifting from about gear 3. It's not wildly jerky or abrasive, but it's not smooth either (or I wouldn't feel it). When it downshifts, after it engages (or torques down for lack of a better term) it feels as if it releases a bit, which makes me have to compensate with harder braking (again, not saying I am slamming on the brakes, but I have to brake harder so it doesn't feel like I am now going to coast into the car in front of me). It doesn't feel like the transmission is going to take off on its own, but it definitely feels like it has a certain threshold it wants to stay above.
In the loaner I have (RX), when coming to a stop the best way I can describe it is it feels like the transmission has completely disengaged and I feel NO transmission downshifting at all. The only way I get this type of braking in my LS is if I throw it into Neutral and take the transmission out of the loop. On the way to the dealership this morning to drop it off for other issues, I was at a stop light and went to accelerate and it felt as if it skipped a gear because I was stalled for a second (acceleration wise, not that the engine turned off) before it took off as it should. Also my acceleration seems to be a little hesitant when starting off .
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I have 2013 Honda Accord 6 sp manual with 25k miles on, its clutch was completed gone last week, got new replacement, local Honda customer rep. told me I should watch my driving pattern, should using more break, instead transmission slow down, particular from high speed/high gears. I told them, we have 2008 Civic 5 speed Manual, I taught my two daughters how to drive it, and the car is still running without any problem… And, this is manual transmission car, tell a driver can not using/changing gears slowing down car is a joke… but maybe I am wrong...
Is there a possibility Accord has design problem with inferior clutch materials used on their new 6 speeds manual Accord? Since car has new clutch, should I keep it for a while? Or, sale it immediately? I just can’t not see I am going to come up another 3rd replacement on clutch before the car get into 60K miles.
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4l60. Tranny 08 xpress. I'm getting p0700 code. 2 weeks after first getting code the tranny went out. Replaced tranny but still getting the same code. Should I b worried and how can I fix it.
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Last night transmission in my beloved '89 Caprice Wagon let go, it slips completely in all the forward gears. I was coming down a long hill using low gear for several minutes and when I put it back into OD at the bottom it seemed to skip a little but it was still making power well enough. I got off the freeway at my exit and stopped at a red light, when the light changed I was revving high but barely creeping through the intersection. I pulled over and this is what I figured out:-All the forward gears make essentially no power any more.-Reverse seems to work normally.-The fluid is at a normal level and not discolored or burnt smelling.
I don't know if this is related or just an amazing coincidence but the water pump also seems to have blown the gasket at the same time. I must have just happened within a few minutes of me pulling over because there was still a ton of coolant left and the temp was still in the normal range. I don't see how they're related but, like I said, the timing is too coincidental. Earlier this week but just a few miles ago I also topped the power steering fluid and oil.
It's a 200-R4 transmission, is it toast? Why does reverse work but all the forward gears slip completely? Is the water pump just a red herring? I did drive the rest of the way home in reverse.
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I was driving up hill last night and the van lost power competely. The car did not die out but I could not get it to move. After it cooled down for 20 minutes or so I was able to move it another half block up hill out of the intersection I was obstructing. It then failed again. I was able to shift it into 'L' to move it to the side. I had it towed home. This morning the battery is not completely dead but the car won't turn over. Sound like the transmission?
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My car is a Toyota Camry 2003, automatic transmission. I don't know if the previous owner ever change the transmission fluid, but my car has 100k miles already. Today, I took the transmission fluid dipstick out, it look black and smell burnt, but I don't see any metal. I don't know how to take out the pan and check for metallic pieces, is there any auto shop that would do it for free?When I accelerate to 40mph from a complete stop, the RPM goes up the 3000 and then quickly drop to 2000, then gradually drop to 1300. My car speed up really slowly even when I keep holding the gas pedal down with my feet. Is my transmission slipping? Sometimes when I start my car or when I change gear, my car jerk a little. I'm afraid it too bad already and my transmission is depending on the broken metal pieces, so I don't know if I should flush it? Will changing the transmission fluid fix the problem?
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