Ford Transmission :: Remove Transmission With Truck Rolled Over On Its Side?
Oct 26, 2016
I have a 2000 Expedition that is going to the wreckers, but it has a perfectly good rebuilt transmission in it. It's been sitting out in a corner of one of the fields for two years.
I was thinking of taking the tranny out as a spare - I have another 2000 Expy that's still running - and thought, rather than spend a couple days bent over and/or on my back, it might be easier to just flip it over on its side for easy access to the underside. I could take a bunch of suspension parts off at the same time.
But - I wonder - does it sound reasonable to take the tranny out in that orientation? Obviously I don't care about the rest of the vehicle, but will it be possible to gently remove the tranny without damaging it?
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The video below IS NOT my truck, though my truck makes the same sound. Mine isn't nearly as loud as the truck in the video at idle, but gets much louder when under load at about 1700-1900 rpm. If you take it easy accelerating it doesn't get any louder than at idle. At cruising speed in third it isn't audible. The trans in my truck is a 1979 C6. Again, not my video. Same noise though.
Transmission whine - YouTube....
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2003 Limited 6.0 130K. Just took a 1000 mile trip for spring break. While away, I noticed a small leak near the front passenger side of the truck. It is red so I assumed it was transmission fluid. It is leaking from, the best I can describe, a small housing that looks like it might be a filter near the tire (it looks like the old style canister oil filter housings). All the hoses are clean and where the hoses go into the radiator are clean. Is this an easy fix? I am a bit worried about trying to get the thing off without damaging the hoses.
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I parked my 2010 F150 XLT at work and went inside, 10 minutes later it had rolled 25 feet and into a ditch.
My first thought was that I had somehow forgotten to put it in park but when I went over to the truck, I checked and it was still in park and the display "lit up" on the "P". Also, a buddy of mine pointed out that the key won't come out unless its in park.
And so my insurance is taking car of the damage but right now I'm driving around with my "parking rock" because my parking brake doesn't work and even if it did, I want to know the root cause of what happened for peace of mind that it won't happen again.
I never use the parking break and my truck was in 2WD at the time. Luckily it was a shallow ditch and so I threw it in 4WD and backed out.....
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As explained in the photo annotations, I can't figure out how to remove this line from the radiator so I can remove the radiator for cleaning.
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I have a 04 Saturn Ion with auto transmission. When I go to shut off the ign. sw. after driving the ign. key won't shut all the way off and you can not remove the key. The key operates just fine. I can start the car, turn the engine off but the key won't turn all the way off to release the key. I was wondering if it could have something to do with the neutral safety switch on the transmission. How I can access it and test it to see if that is the problem?
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So there I was, a very proud owner of my new Touareg driving down to DIA (Denver airport) to pick up my mates from England and show off the new motor, After I pick them up I push the gear lever button in and try and move it out of drive - it jammed solid. The button would not come out after I had pushed it in and the gear lever would only move from Drive to Neutral and I could not get the key out of the ignition. I had to get my mates to push it backwards while I had the car in neutral. Managed to drive it directly to McDonald Automotive in Littleton. They gave me a loaner car within half an hour and fixed the car by noon the next day. I guess the mechanism inside the gear lever was not assembled correctly from the factory.
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I bought a truck a week ago and finally got it running. I got into the truck put it into drive and nothing happened. It is a 59 2wd with an automatic transmission. All the linkages are moving all the way to the transmission. There is a second arm coming out of the transmission in the same spot where it is hooked up now. Should it be hooked up to something? Is the transmission done for?
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If I understand correctly my 2004 Expedition has the 4R75E transmission. We are experiencing a clunk upon acceleration when the truck downshifts from 4th to 2nd. I had the fluid & filter changed, flushed the transmission with cleaner. It still does it but not all the time. I turned OD off and I didn't notice the problem when shifting from 3 to 2.
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I have a 2005 ford expedition with 91000 miles, it has the 5.4 w/ the 4r70w transmission.
For some reason when my truck tries to shift into 4th gear, the RPM's climb to approx. 3000 rpms (meanwhile the truck is not gaining speed) and slowly drops down to about 1000-1500. once the rpms drop down fourth gear eventually engages and I can go about my business as normal as long as I do not let my mph drop too low.
If I turn O/D off, the truck drives perfect, minus not having overdrive.
If I come to a dead stop and put the truck in 2nd gear, with O/D on the truck drives great and it has good engine braking so I am assuming that the band is holding.
I took it to a transmission shop to have some diagnostic checks done, they told me that fourth gear was barely engaging and that they would have to tear apart the transmission to diagnose it further, I told them not to disassemble the transmission.
So I changed out the torque converter (which I assumed was "fourth gear") and changed out all the fluid, the fluid looked a little burnt but there was no debris in the pan but there was some silver material on the tranny pan magnet, and installed a new filter. and the problem still exists.
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My truck does not go into reverse but thinks all positions of shifter are drive. I had some slippage and changed the filter and oil great for awhile then blame no reverse just forward I was told my torque converter was out I just don't know....
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Chasing down a grinding noise. I have done a lot of research but nothing quit matches up with what I am hearing.
I have a 1979 F250 4x4. A few days ago I put the truck in reverse and as I was backing up it was like the drivetrain locked up. After that I put the truck in gear and started on my way. As I got up in speed a pretty loud grinding noise was coming from the tranny. 2nd and 3rd gear aren't bad but when I get up to 40+mph it sounds like crap. If I push in the clutch the grinding is still there. While driving I also put the transfer case in neutral, kept the tranny in gear, pushed in the clutch and the grinding stopped.
I also took the lid off, inspected the forks and thoroughly cleaned the inside but noise still continues.
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2012 F150 STX 2wd 6spd 100kmi
I just dropped the transmission oil pan and changed the filter. Put a new filter in. 5qt of oil came out, I put 5qt of oil back in. Oil level is right between the A and B hash marks.
I start up the truck and put it in gear and nothing happens. Its like the oil filter dropped and it isnt getting oil. I dont think this is possible because i watched it go in, the oil pan holds it, the seal came out with the old filter and the seal went in with the new one.
Am I missing something here? this oil change went just as well as any other tranny oil change i have done but the thing wont move.
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I have a 2001 m5r2 ford f-150 standard transmission. i have replaced the slave cyl., the entire clutch assy., the master cyl. pilot bearing. the trans. will engage all five gears plus reverse while truck is off but will not engage a gear while running. i have bled and bled and bled and still will not engage.
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I bought a 95 Explorer with a known bad transmission, rebuilt it (broken band and chipped intermediate apply piston), put it back in, and now it's acting odd.
It wants to start in third. I can manually start it in second (first rarely works), shift it to drive at about 30, and it's fine. It shifts into OD, locks the TC, and when given a bit of gas kicks down to second. It downshifts during deceleration, but once I come to a complete stop, it'll try to start in third again. The only transmission code it's giving is for incorrect first gear ratio, there is an off and on engine code for the EGR pressure sensor as well.
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Just finished putting a fresh 460 backed by a (1977) c6 in my '68 ranger and now I'm having (what I believe is) transmission problems. The truck will idle and rev properly in gear but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse the RPM's drop and it dies. I jacked the back end up and put it in both drive and reverse and the tire's spin, but if I try and apply the brake to stop them the truck will die. My suspicion is that the torque converter is locked up all the time. I have managed to get it in gear and give it gas and it'll drive and shift fine, until I come to a stop. My question, what would cause the converter to do this? It's the same transmission and converter that I pulled out a month ago and I never had any issues before...
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I have a 2001 F-150 4.2L 2WD LS with 102k miles. At 95k miles, the clutch slave cylinder started leaking fluid. So, I had my local garage replace it. And while they were at it, put in a new clutch. That is when the trouble started.
I cannot let the clutch out like I used too. When letting out the clutch from a dead stop,the rear end now shakes, shutters, and if it is really bad, the rear end starts bouncing. To minimize the shakes, I have to keep the engine below 1000rpm until the clutch/1<sup>st</sup> gear is fully engage. It is worst when there is a load on the truck like going uphill, or a sharp turn for a dead stop. After the truck gets rolling, I don’t notice the problem when shifting gears.
I have been babying it for 7k miles and it has not improved. What is wrong? Did I get a bad clutch job?
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My 2002 excursion 7.3 is acting weird when in drive. I have to get to around 2k rpm to get moving and hard shifts. But if I put it in 1st it has no problem but in 2nd i have hard vibration that shakes whole truck.
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I have a 1998 F250 XLT single cab 5.4L V8 Triton. Truck idles fine 1st and 2nd are fine, when it shifts into 3rd it starts shaking really bad until it gets higher into the gear then it smooths out. same with 4th gear. If i punch the gas it flies right through the gears with little shaking. Ive heard its the u joints, I've heard its the tranny. I don't know what to do or try to figure it out.
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Last night I backed up out of a parking space and when I put it in drive it wouldn't move. It seemed like the transmission was locked up. What happened? The truck was running fine. It's a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0 with auto transmission. Getting it serviced? I'm tempted to go to a dealer. What the problem is? Repair costs? The fluid looks good - no burning smell.
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I have a 2002 F-350 6.8L, 4x4, crew cab, 8' bed, SRW, trailer tow pkg. I purchased it new in the fall of 2001. The truck currently has 54,000 miles on it (only gets used when I need to tow/haul something). It's kept in the garage and is in near showroom condition.
Everything on the vehicle is 100% functional except the transmission temperature gauge. Even when the truck sits for weeks, the needle will move to mid scale as soon as the key is switched on - haven't even started the engine yet! Put the scanner on it - no codes stored.
I'm attempting to trouble-shoot the TFT (transmission fluid temperature) sensor. Found some documentation online on the 4R100 transmission. It shows an electrical connector on the solenoid body with pins for the thermistor (so I can measure its resistance). However, I can't find a connector anywhere on my transmission that even remotely resembles the diagram I found online.
Question 1: When you first get in your vehicle and turn the key, does your tranny temp gauge read "cold" just like the engine temp gauge?
Question2: Does my truck have the 4R100 transmission? How can I verify that?
Question3: Looking for documentation on what connector and which pins are for the thermistor?
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