Ford Transmission :: Rear End Locks Up When End Caps Torqued
Nov 28, 2015
I got the preload on the pinion just about perfect (24 in-lbs). I put the end caps and spacers in the same exact place as they came off. But as soon as I tighten down the end caps, the rear end just locks up. It will not turn through.
I have taken the carrier out and put it back in several times to make sure I haven't missed something. But I always get the same thing.
By the way, it is a 8.8" 3.31 rear end that is in a 2000 Ford Expedition.
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1994 3.0L 5 speed Splash. 77K original miles, but sat in driveway for about a year without being run. Got it running and all seemed good. My brother-in-law was going to take it to his house (bigger city) to sell. After about 30 miles or so rear wheels 'locked up' as he was starting out from a stop sign. Carolina summer, temps 95+ at the time. Truck wouldn't move, even in neutral. He had to leave it to make it back to work in time; several hours later when I went to meet a tow truck I could shift it into neutral and it rolled fine.
Took it home, pulled the rear wheels, and cleaned the rust off of drums and e-brake. Thought that was the problem, seemed to be working fine. Then when I took it into town for errands (maybe 20 miles each way), I got home and it did the same thing at the top of the driveway. 'Locked up' and couldn't drive it or even roll it in neutral. After several hours I could back it down the driveway but heard some funky rattling noises from underneath the truck, almost like nuts & bolts rolling around a steel pan. Checked the manual transmission fluid level and it took nearly a quart. Shifts and drives fine but I still hear the rattling at times when it's in gear. I'm afraid to drive it very far in case it locks up again.
I'm a mechanical novice, but here's what it seems like:
1) Not the brakes after all.
2) Clutch seems ok.
3) Heat seems to be an issue. Only locked up after driving at several miles in hot weather, and then ok after cooling down for awhile.
Could the fluid level being down 1/3 have lead to the symptoms I experienced? Not enough in there & something locking up after heat reached a certain point? If so , what might have locked up? Is there something we might be able to do in the driveway to further diagnose?
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I've just replaced a front ABS tone ring on my 2003 Escape and I'm ready to replace the axle nut (I've got a new one, as per Ford's recommendation) and torque up. I've heard that you're supposed to torque the axle nut *before* you put the wheels back on the ground, but I have the factory service manual for the 2003 Escape and I can't find anything to back that up.
I've looked at every listed procedure I can think of that involves removing and replacing the axle nut, and none of them specify that you must torque the nut with the wheels in the air.
It would be easier for me to do it with the wheels on the ground, but would I be risking bearing damage if I did that?
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So I've been away a long time. My sister recently bought a 1997 Ford Explorer with the V8. When she tries to turn on the cruise she says it throws the transmission in to neutral and then locks the gas pedal...
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Sometimes the LR brake skids MUCH too easily under just moderate braking. Other times it works normally. It's unpredictable. I may drive it for weeks with no trouble and then have a few days in a row when the problem comes back.
It usually happens when the truck has been sitting for a while (several hours or days). sometimes it goes away after driving for 10-15 mins, other times it sticks around a few days then stops.
I had Les Schwab inspect the brakes several months ago and they could find nothing wrong. It's been happening for a year or more.
It's a '99 Ranger, 2 wheel drive with ABS.
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It seems that every time I put the truck into 4 low, the rear axle locks up. When turning, one tire skips no difference which way I turn. When doing this, I do not have the front hubs locked. Also noticed that when turning in 2wd one tire will spin w/o other locking up. I have spun the tire enough for the L/S to catch, but hasn't. I have heard that the locker was not available until years later. Is this true?
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My wife and I have a 1986 Cutlass Ciera with an engine size 4 -151, 2.5L engine with 41,749 original miles. Right after the transmission shifts at around 30-35 mph it locks up (for a lack of a better word.) This lock up can continue to about 40 mph. It feels like it 'misses or hesitates' until I let off the gas and increase speed again by going faster than 40 mph.
The GM service department said there was a recall sometime ago to solve this problem but the fix was only for the larger 4 liter engine and to use this fix would damage the cars engine. They said it was not a transmission problem and that we will probably have to 'live' with this condition which is more a nusiance then anything else. They go on to say this condition will not harm the engine. Are they right with their answer or can something actually be done to fix this problem? Other than this the car runs great. It has been tuned up, all belts and hoses replaced, new thermostat, etc.
Also, when we turn on the ignition, the engine would race at 2,000 rpm until we let it warm up and then put it in gear at 1000 rpm. A new thermostat keep the idle from going so fast when we start the car. Is the fast idle normal for this age of a car or could something be done for this also.
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Car is a 2001 Accent 1.6L 4 door automatic with about 130,000 miles on it.
Transmission shifts correctly into reverse, drive, neutral as well as manually shifting into 2nd and 1st. When in drive I will accelerate perfectly through 1st gear, shifts smoothly into 2nd gear then the problem arises. The car will shift ok into 3rd, but if I let off the gas to coast to a light or a corner, etc, the transmission physically downshifts or locks up in 3rd (like driving a stick, ie the car has drag like the converter is locked instead of freely coasting). It feels like 3rd gear but could be 2nd. When I go to accelerate again without coming to a stop the car has this same feeling of drag with no power and speeds up very slowly (almost like i am pulling something behind the car or am in a gear that is too high). If I give it enough gas to force a downshift it really slams that downshift. While the car accelerates through the rpm range after this downshift it will rev past the normal up-shift rpm until it finally slams into the higher gear. Or if i hold the gas steady at the higher rpm the car will suddenly slam into the higher gear. after all of this nonsense the car drives perfect through to OD. The problem is much worse going uphill and is consistent every time it is driven.
Also, sometimes the car would shake and vibrate when hitting the gas during this "drag feeling" until i let go and did it again. This is pretty random compared to the main problem but also seems to happen while the car is in 2nd or 3rd. This has been happening for about 5 months now and as far as i know was sudden. And on another note it suddenly was shifting fine the other day while driving it. I haven't driven it since then but this completely stumped me, as most problems will do when they magically disappear.
There is no check engine light, OD works fine and the car does not go into the safety mode where it will shift to 3rd gear on the highway. It's city driving that is the real headache (2nd and 3rd gear difficulties). Would the pulse generators cause this? bad TCM? i haven't scanned anything yet but will be within the next few days(at pep boys or similar) as well as ohming out pga and pgb. i have found resistance readings for pgb but nothing for pga, what should pga read? fluid is also within acceptable amount and color.
My initial thoughts were dirty or stuck solenoids/valves in the valve body and i was going to do a filter and fluid change with a quick valve body cleaning and check. But after researching on here I am starting to think it may be electrical. The only reason I put my scenario up is because it seems that everybody else who is having a similar problem is also having the "no reverse" or "shifting into 3rd on the highway" problems while i am not. On a random note, for my own piece of mind, how do the pulse generators work? Are they just reading ticks on a gear cog in the tranny or something? fluid flow?
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I was watching a tv show a while back, I cant find the episode but I think it was performance tv, and they had a 6.0 L expert on there and he was saying they see a lot of high pressure oil rail end caps come loose and or pop out. He was saying that they tap/thread the end of the oil rail and put a threaded in cap? Does it make any sense, can it be done, is it worth doing?
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There has got to be an easier way then the homemade method I'm using?
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My dads 2012 F350, how do you remove the bed caps on the top of the bed? I can see some plastic clips or something but are they a press together or pull apart or something else?
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1998 Dodge Durango, runs fine when cold, but when it warms up, the transmission will lock up going down the road(scary to say the least).
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2000 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 L engine, transmission drops from 4th gear to 3rd gear at cruising speed (65mph) and locks into 3rd gear, I have to stop and turn the key off and start the engine again to reset the A/T what do you think is happening?
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Having problem of center wheel caps falling off? I had two fall off while I've been driving and was lucky enough to hear them fall off and find them in the ditch. I made sure that they were on tight enough but yet they still come off. How to keep them on????
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What should be the RPM when cruising at 65 m.p.h. on a flat, well paved freeway? The car is carrying only the driver in this case. My transmission was replaced and my RPM is now 3,100 rather than, as I recall, around 2599. The mechanix says that the transmission is for a Honda Prelude and that they're all the same. Is this true? By the way, my gas milage has proportionately dropped.
Also, how difficult is it to replace the rear shocks? Can this be done in the driveway with the car's rear end securely up on blocks?
One last problem involves the status indicator on the dashboard. This is the one that shows the status of the doors, brake lights, etc. Sometimes this comes on and flickers. Sometimes it never comes on, except for the test flash when starting the car. Sometimes it always stays on. Is this an easy fix?
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How to disable the auto door locks but I have the opposite problem. Mine were not enabled and I would like them to be. Looking for instructions for enabling the auto door locks? 2010 s, no smart key, manual transmission.
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My 04' FX4 rear door locks hesitate to open with the key fob or the door switch. I can get them to open sometimes but not every time. Why this is happening?
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My 2003 2.3L used to run bad... it had a lot of lag to it when i would try to accelerate. The check engine light was on so i got it checked, and the reading said o2 sensor high voltage or something like that... anyways, i purchased a new sensor (i researched, and found there is only an upstream o2 sensor), replaced it, and the truck ran WAY better, no more lag during acceleration, it was crisp. As i was driving home one day, i was accelerating up a hill, and at about 4000 RPM, the truck almost dies and starts sputtering.
The check engine light started flashing, so i new it was serious, but luckily i was able to make it back to my house. When i got home, i looked under the hood and noticed that #2 & #3 spark plug caps had popped off the spark plugs. What I don't understand is what would have caused that to happen in the first place.... Is it a clogged Catalytic convertor, or is the o2 sensor bad.... Ive read different opinions and technical diagnostic possibilities, but man, i don't want to throw a bunch of money at a truck that I'm really going to have for a few more months. but I need to get it fixed in the mean time.
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Bought the car 3 days ago, 2013 40000m silver SE 5spd, manual ... pretty nice over all, but those rear door locks trying to lock every time I stop and go over 10mph is driving me crazy. So after researching, I ended up to the conclusion that I have to replace them both, and put the sleeves/covers that they came up with.
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I bought a used 2005 Prius in early February, and have driven about 7,000 miles so far.
Yesterday, I noticed an issue with the braking. When the traditional brakes (non-regenerative) kick in when approaching a full-stop the right-rear tire completely locks up, and skids. The weather has been wet the past two days, but the issue is severe enough that the resulting vibrations feel like they may tear the car apart.
There are no warning lights aside from the skid light, so I assume there'll be no code for a mechanic to easily identify this problem. I'm worried if it's not easy to pin down, this may be a huge expense, and if so, I'll have to hold off awhile, and find some other mode of transportation.
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We just replaced the #5 injector. Went to take for a test drive and the 4 glow plug caps on passenger side popped off and leaking oil while driving. Pushed them back on and they popped off again. They shouldn't be under pressure should they.
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