Ford Transmission :: Pressing OD Off Button Does Not Seem To Change Engine RPM
Sep 2, 2014
I managed to replace all the damaged gears and other hard parts in my 2002 E150 transmission 4R70W and did a full rebuild on it after it self-destructed. I did not change the solenoid valves but I now suspect that I should have. It shifts smoothly until you get to the time that overdrive should engage but it doesn't. If you drive a bit at a steady speed around 50 mph the OD light on the shifter will start to flash.
Once you turn it off and restart it, the flashing stops. I did not drive it again to see if it repeats, but I can tell that Overdrive is not engaging. Pressing the OD off button does not seem to change the engine RPM. Is it most likely the solenoid valve or could I have not put it back together right?
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Today I went out to crank my Sonata SE 2.4. Pressing the ignition button only got me a buzzing and no turning of the engine. We've been out of the country for 2 weeks and the car has been in the garage since then. I have a portable battery booster that I attached to the battery and the car started normally. I drove it for around thirty minutes and switched it off in my driveway. Immediately tried to restart and it would not start. Boosted again and headed to Auto Zone to have the battery tested. Battery tested bad so I had it replaced. The car started immediately so I turned it off and tried to restart as a precaution. No go.... boosted again and cranked fine. The new battery tested out good so we decided that maybe the charge could be low or? maybe we just needed to run it some on the interstate.
I now had a cel on. So we get out onto the interstate and drive about two miles and the engine looses power, limp mode ?. Pull to the side of the road and RPM's at only 1500 with the accelerator to the floor. I was afraid to restart the engine that it would possibly not restart and I'd have to be towed.
Luckily, we were about two miles from the Hyundai dealership so we limped there at 20 MPH. The car is at the dealership now being diagnosed.
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Do I have to press a button on the ultimate lockpick every time I want to use the navigation while in motion? If I do have to press a button is there any module out there that will allow me to use the navigation while in motion without having to press a button?
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2011 Prius with 30,000
At the first start of day when I pressed on brake pedal and got the green light on power button as usual I pressed power button and never got ready condition, trying to figure out what is happening I have had this condition occur almost every morning (outside air temp around 40 degrees F) also when I went to train station to pick up my daughter I shut off for about ten minutes and it happened again.
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As the title says the cruise control is not working, the cruise light comes on but no workee after pressing the the set button. I have followed the steps according the the owners manual.
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So when I press auto(physical button) and have my temp at HI or 85, it turns on the AC as well. Why this is? I thought auto was supposed to adjust everything to get it to that temp. AC is also on when I hit the front defrost(physical button).
This is on a 2013 Premium with rear seat controls, and S Flow and 3 Zone is off, if that makes a difference. Maybe I'm missing a setting somewhere, I'm still pretty new to all this coming from a 99 GS 300!
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On Monday evening my wife left our 2010 Prius Gen III without pressing the "off" button. She took the keys with her and she claims that she locked the car.
On Wednesday morning I noticed that the dashboard panel was switched on and I deduced that the Prius has been running all the time, with the ICE engine kicking in now and then to keep up the Hybrid battery level. A quick call to my dealer confirmed this, and also the fuel consumption average was in line: 14 l/100 km on a 20 Km trip (my average is 3.9 -4.2 l/100km...).
I was very surprised to discover that the Prius does not switches off when the key is removed (i.e. taken far away from the car). This seems to me a sort of engineering flaw.
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Yesterday I found that I could't lock the Phaeton by pressing the button on the outside door handles .
I could only lock/unlock from the key fob . Is there something I can do to resolve this short of going to a service dept ??
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On my MPG display if I push the steering wheel button once, I see actual MPG and the numbers jump all over the place depending on how I am driving. Push the button a 2nd time I see avg mpg, push it a third time and I see range how many more miles I can go.
If I push the button a 4th time I see "- - -?".
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Today while hanging out in my gt,i I turned on the stereo using the button wheel on the console. I tried to connect my phone using Bluetooth and noticed that it was grayed out and not an option as an input. I noticed pressing the start/stop ignition button was the only way to get the Bluetooth to connect to the car. Im not sure if the Bluetooth is powered separately or I'm doing it wrong. I just wanna use my phone and listen to music without turning on all the lights and car electronics.
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2005 Prius, 50K. Newly purchased two weeks ago. Last night, driving into my garage with the ICE off, noticed a noticeable electric or electronic-sounding hum from the engine compartment. With the hood up and looking toward the engine from the front of the car, noise comes from the right side of the engine compartment, to the right of the inverter cover.
The noise, a loud hum, appears when pressing the Power button and the brake pedal. It also appears when pressing the Power button twice without pressing the brake pedal. When starting up the car, the hum lowers in pitch significantly (though not in volume) as soon as the Park button is pressed.
When I bought the car, I brought it in to the dealership for a complete checkup. They replaced the inverter coolant pump under the recall notice. Don't know if that's significant. I opened the coolant reservoir cap last night with the motor on, and noticed movement inside, so it appears to be working fine.
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So the other day I was waiting on my friend outside her job, but the car was on off, I got bored and pushed the Push Start button twice without holding the brake so only the stereo will turn on. However when I turned on the car again to driver off the stereo shut off and wouldn't turn on. It's been three days now and I was hoping it was some sort of glitch that would fix itself out, but it hasn't. Its a 2011 Sonata without the Navigation, Just the simple bluetooth fm/am radio with CD.
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I tried to start my car with the remote key by pressing the unlock button 3 times and hold on it on the third time. It does not work at all. What is the problem?
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So I have a 2010 jetta 2.5 and my key is stuck in the ignition has been for a couple weeks also don't know if it's related but when I start the car I can pull the shifter out of park without pressing shifter button just have to press brake and after I shut the car off if I take it out of park and put it in gear it just freely rolls only stops if it's in park. NOT A DSG
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I need to pinpoint this clunking noise. I've recently noticed this noise on the highway, after I have been driving a while, when I stop and begin driving again, if I am barely pressing he accelerator, she will clunk along. The sound is accompanied by a movement that you can feel as well. I'm beginning to think maybe there is some slippage in the rear differential.
Also I was wondering how much repairs run for this diff, the numbers I got were:
D26W0
and
2148
I know its not the U-joints, I just had them replaced along with a new driveshaft.
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I Learned on a Toyota Avalon web page that you can force your audio system to reboot itself by pressing the power button for three seconds. On the Avalon, it only works on the "Limited" levels. I tried it tonight on my Prius Four and it worked. Great to use when your audio gets "confused" and you just want to clear it and start over.
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I started the car with keyless push button and almost immediately moved the gearshift selector from Park P to Drive D. I drove like this for several miles on traffic-congested surface streets. The Phaeton felt as if I was on 2nd gear. Upon stopping, and moving gearshift selector to P, Phaeton would not turn off engine by hitting the keyless push button Start/Stop. I had to plug in the key (had not done that in a long time!) and twist it counterclockwise to kill the engine. Upon rebooting the car (used to be called re-starting the engine, I guess), everything went back to normal.
Photo of screwed-up transmission indicator : [URL] ....
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I just bought a 2011 F250 Super Duty 6.2L and the manual A/C buttons were stuck on Max A/C and wouldn't change. I fiddled with every switch on the dash thinking it might be a stuck switch and eventually all the buttons started working. This truck has SYNC, which works fine, and I can't find anything else wrong with the truck.
When the buttons are lit, it blows good and cold, in A/C and Max A/C. The problem I'm having now is that they won't light up at all. Visual inspection shows nothing obvious under the hood, and it has a charge of freon. I drove and it id working just fine, but stuck on the Max setting. I'm thinking electrical gremlins, like stuck switch or a relay...
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So I have a 2006 2.4 sonata with a transmission whine only when pressing on the gas in drive or reverse. I just flushed and replaced the fluid and it is at the correct level. What I want to know is since the transmission has in internal filter, is it possible for me to clean it out to get rid of the whining sound?
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I have had my 2007 GX for 5 months now. I have discovered the "clunk" issue and had the dealership replace the driveshaft. I want to start a new thread because I have a different clunk. The new driveshaft has fixed my clunk issue at a stop but I have one more. While driving in the city or leaving the highway on the exit ramp (transmission is in overdrive) and I press the accelerator I get a clunk.
This only happens when the transmission is shifting out of overdrive. I can repeat this clunk while driving around 30-40 mph. I will coast a bit then accelerate enough that it wants to shift out of overdrive and then "clunk". It sounds loud but not much of a jerk. I have 85K on it and did not perform any fluid changes in the drive train yet. Transmission is sealed so not sure if it is worth changing or just leave it and drive nice so it don't clunk.
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It's a 2003 Mountaineer with a mechanical throttle not drive by wire. For about two weeks while idling in park or in gear but stopped in the drive-thru, the engine revs upwards of 1200-2100 rpm. Runs fine normally, no check engine light, no misfire and doesn't matter if the A/C is on or not.
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