Ford Transmission :: Nasty Ticking Or Clicking Noise Coming From The Front Of Trans
Aug 8, 2013
My daughter recently got a '92 f-150 SCAB 4x4, 302 w/ E4OD. The trans needed new seals in the front pump, so I did those and replaced the filter and fluid while at it. Now it runs fine, but it makes a nasty ticking or clicking noise. It is definitely coming from the front of the trans. I was thinking it was a cracked flexplate, so I pulled the inspection cover yesterday, but could not see any cracks. I have heard that sometimes you cannot see the cracks, as they are tiny, or around the crank bolts, which are not visible from the inspection cover. Is this the case? Also, could the torque converter be the culprit? I haven't heard of this kind of noise coming from the TC, but then, I've dealt mainly with manuals.
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Got home from work this morning and noticed when I pulled in the drive and opened the door a ticking noise coming from under truck. Finally had time this evening to crawl under truck and investigate noise. It's coming from the front of the transmission where it bolts up to engine. It's a pretty much steady tick and goes away for a few seconds here and there. when you increase RPM's it's still there and I think goes away at higher RPM's, it doesn't get louder as you increase RPM's just stays the same level. Will get it to shop Monday hopefully and get this checked out and NoX sensor changed out too.
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Our 2002 Ford Windstar has 78k miles. On 6/2/15 we had the brakes replaced. Soon after I noticed a ticking/clicking noise that sounded like it was coming from the right rear tire. It only happened when I braked and then only happened sometimes. It didn't seem to matter if the car was cold or had been running awhile, if I was on flat ground or on a hill, or if I had been going fast or slow. I couldn't predict when it happened. The car always stopped okay. So I took it back to the repair shop, and they made an adjustment and it was quiet. Two days later it started again, so I took it back. They machined the rear drums and the noise was gone. Five days later I hit a rough patch of pavement and when I braked the noise started again. Back to the shop. They had one of the mechanics ride with me. No noise of course. They said to bring it back when it makes the noise. Well, it has made the noise, but only a few times and I can't predict when it will happen. The car runs fine and brakes fine. I trust this repair shop. They've worked on the car in the past.
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I have an 07 Camry with an I4 engine and there are times when I am driving with the two front windows down and I hear a ticking/clicking noise coming from the engine as if the engine is brittle.
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I have a 2002 Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.7, auto trans. 214,000 miles. Transmission had a complete rebuild in August 2015. Last few days when driving slowly (5 mph) there is a rhythmic clicking or ticking noise coming from the center of the vehicle, best I can tell with my limited hearing. Noise is variable with car speed. With rear axle on jack stands in gear and idling, and my kubota backed up to it for safety ,sound is still there. All U joints appear to be fine, they are tight and there is no sign of fresh rust at the bearing caps. All axle boots are fine, no holes or anything else. I originally thought front hub assembly but the jack stand test rules that out. Not sure what the heck it could be.
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I hear this clicking/ticking noise on the driver side front wheel or somewhere there whenever i reached 40mph and up. Car drives straight and no weird anything, just the noise.
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I recently had a good amount of work done to my Mk4 R32. Last night on my drive home from the stealership I ended up with a passenger headlight out and a very loud clicking/ticking noise which seems to be coming from the Serpentine belt area. After closer inspection it looks like the tensioner lines are't lined up which means my belt and tensioner need to be replaced? I'm not sure, but I have a video and this picture.
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2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 ... When I first turn my car on in the morning (or after an extended period of time - i.e. the car has completely cooled down) it makes a clicking / ticking noise that appears to be coming from the engine area. It lasts approximately 10 - 12 seconds and then simply goes away. This happens consistently. I recently had it serviced end-to-end: belts, plugs, total tune-up etc.
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I posted in this thread originally: [URL] .....
But today I had my wife drive the car and take some slow left turns while I listened so I could get a better idea about what the sound was and where it was coming from. From inside the garage and in the car, it sounded like it was coming from the rear but I now know it's coming from the front passenger wheel and it is not a "grinding" sound at all, it's more of a tick-tick-tick/click-click-click sound.
Applying brakes doesn't change the frequency or quality of the sound, but speed does. The faster the wheel turns, the frequencly of the ticking increases. It doesn't appear to tick/click only once per revolution, it clicks a number of times throughout the rotation and at some points during the rotation it clicks more often than others. Like, tick.... tick... tickticktick...tick...
When going straight there is no noise, turning right, it sometimes might click once or something but it doesn't really happen turning the other way. I've looked at the dust shield around and even tried bending it back a little bit in case it was making contact when I thought it was more of a grind but nothing looks out of place and nothing has been done to the wheel recently other than putting new rims on a couple of months ago.
Wheel bearing? I thought a bad wheel bearing would make noise no matter what direction you're going and pretty much constantly. CV? I thought CV ticking usually only happens at full lock but it ticks even on not so severe turning. Fender liner doesn't appear to be touching the tire, and the car isn't dropped and is AWD so there's plenty of clearance.
So, is this a trip to the dealer? I'm only under powertrain... not sure if something is up if it would be covered. I think wheel bearings are, but not sure about other suspension parts that might cause this.
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With the front hubs locked locked I get a ticking noise out of the front axle almost like there is rocks in the hubcaps. But unlock the hubs and the noise goes away. Also, if I put it in 4 wheel with the hubs unlocked i get no noise.
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I originally own an mk4 r32 but my friend owns a 20th.. He recently lowered his car about an inch or 1.5 of an inch he might have a finger gap.. He is on jam coilovers all the way down in the rear and about 20 threads left up front.. There is a nasty sound coming from the front driver side when he is turning or going straight.. he still didn't do an alignment idk if that matters.. and he also miscounted the threads so his driver side is about two threads higher but he fixed that now.. he also doesn't have camber plates up front does this matter? he has 8mm spacers up front so he cant be hitting the coil.. also he never replaced his front strut mounts/bearings ...
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I originally own an mk4 r32 but my friend owns a 20th.. He recently lowered his car about an inch or 1.5 of an inch he might have a finger gap.. He is on jam coilovers all the way down in the rear and about 20 threads left up front.. There is a nasty sound coming from the front driver side when he is turning or going straight.. he still didn't do an alignment idk if that matters.. and he also miscounted the threads so his driver side is about two threads higher but he fixed that now.. he also doesn't have camber plates up front does this matter?
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I Have a ticking noise coming from the front when I first start up the vehicle and only lasts for 5-10 secs maybe 15 secs tops.. I assume I think its from the engine..
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I have 98 ford explorer sport 4x4 does has a clicking noise coming from the front driveshaft that connects the transfer case to the front differential. At first we thought it was the front drivers side cv joint which we replaced. nothing changed. there is still a noise apparently coming from the front driveshaft. we can not tell if it is the front differential or the transfer case itself. The noise is being transfer through the front driveshaft. It sounds a bearing is going bad.
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I recently purchased a 2015 Elantra a few months ago and I have noticed a couple times now that when I'm driving along and hit the gas when I'm trying to pass someone or speed up in a hurry that it just revs high but doesn't catch until it revs back down. Is this a normal thing these days or could it be a problem? It's an auto. Also the other day I had the window down and I heard ticking noise sounded like it was coming from the front left but it followed my speed. Hit the brakes and it didn't change but it slowed down when I slowed down. Then I turned and it stopped and haven't noticed it since but I haven't really gone too far.
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Over the past month, I've started to notice a rattling noise/ticking coming from the front passenger door/"B" pillar area of the SFS. More so on bumpier roads... so I'm sure something has come loose somehow....
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I have had a Clicking noise on my 2000 x 4x4 since 6 months coming from the front right side tire noticeable over rough roads or over bumps and I went on a journey starting with ford dealer to almost all well recognized service centers and every body says your front suspension is ok and no one seems to know where it is coming from. I thought it was my hub bearing since it fails almost every year but when I was changing the bearing, I noticed a big Excessive play in axle.
See video : My AXLE Shaft - YouTube
Also I noticed oil mixed with grease the grease is prawny with a reddish sort of color or that is some thing else.
See photos ....
Any way after replacing the hub Bearing with a used one and butting every thing together I went on a test drive. Noticed that the vehicle drive line is not right the car seems to wonder and the noise still there so i didn't get far i came right back and park my x then a funny burned oil smell was present.
Is it some thing i did wrong or is it bad situation gone worst ?
Items Checked Or Replaced In The Last 4 Months ( trying to fix)
Tie Rods. Ok
ball joints. Ok
suspension front and rear. Ok
Front stabilizer bar. Ok
control arm bushings. Ok
stabilizer bar bushings Ok
steering linkage. Ok
brake pads. A new front set installed
Rotors . Both front changed with oem parts
body mounts + sub-frame mounts. Some replaced
shock absorbers . New 4 set installed
- Rear Monroe 911176 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
- Front Monroe 911175 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
tires. Replaced with a new set off four
Hub Bearing. Second hand (that's when I saw it)
Spare Parts waiting list (Ordered):-
O ring ord part # 4C3Z-1K106-AA
(knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB).
and some other dust seals which i can't recall.
I am looking for how to fix axle play and get red of the noise. (this is a video from you tube for clearance)....
F250 wheel bearing, is this bad or not? - YouTube
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I have a 2001 ram 1500 4x4. For the past 2 weeks, when I touch the brake pedal I can hearing a ticking noise coming from the front driverside wheel. The ticking frequency is speed dependent. I had the brakes replaced, and the shop could not find the ticking noise. The truck performs get and there are no braking problems other than the ticking sound, but now for the strange part...
My abs and brake light are now coming on. However, as soon as my abs and brake light come on, usually on the freeway around 65mph, the ticking noise from braking is gone. So with no abs and brake light, brand new brakes tick at the slightest touch of the brake pedal, with the ticking freq. equal to wheel revs.
With abs and brake light on, no ticking. Plus the shop said that I only have abs in the rear.
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A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
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I thought there was a v10 specific superduty section like how the psd does, but my thread went in the "performance, engine, troubleshooting" section.
I wanted more exposure than that particular small viewed area.
I don't have a video of the noise, but my 99 f450 v10 5spd has some iffy noise coming from the front. I've read so many threads on this and they either end with "my motor had 1-2-3 bad pistons" or "my flexplate was cracked" and all that dealt with chain tensioners were never finished.
I know what piston slap sounds like (worked on many cobras and lightnings with forged pistons that had it) and have experience with bad wrist pins and broken piston skirts, and this noise doesn't sound like any of it.
Noise is a loud clicking/clunking/Detroit diesel idle noise. When you rev the engine up it doesn't lighten or get better, only worse as rpm goes up. Oil is terrible looking, I'll be getting that changed this week.
Story on truck. I've had this thing for 4 years with blown motor. I got a buddy that acquired a parts truck and he said it ran good. I dropped my truck off and he swapped the engine. I got my truck back running, but with this engine noise. He said it needs to get run some more and change oil.
I think it's timing tensioners, my buddy says it will come out of it, a mechanic friend says it's going to blow up "because they all do" and I don't really want to replace the engine again.
If it's tensioners, how big of a job is it. I have the cam clamps and crank stop and the ford tools to make sure crank and cams don't rotate while apart.
I'm just 650 miles from my truck and may need someone else to do the work. Which sucks.
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Having problems with a squeaking or ticking noise coming from the front windshield area on the passenger side? I took off the A-pillar and tweeter speaker cover, and the noise was still there. Pressing on the A-pillar did not work and it's not any of the cords or plastics in there rubbing. It almost sounds like it's behind the A-pillar. Pressing on the dash, windshield, headliner, etc. all have no effect on the noise.
I'm trying really hard to fix this myself because I'm worried about a tech tearing apart the dash trying to fix it. It might end up worse than it is now. I'm thinking this TSB will need to be done (which seems to apply to all Toyotas): [URL] ....
Next on my list to check is the passenger side mirror (make sure it's fastened securely) and also the black liner under the windshield wipers. I also have foam (like the kind you use when installing a window AC) which I may also try stuffing into the bottom of the front windshield (and maybe the top) to see if that works.
If all else fails, the car is going to the dealer I guess. The Camry is such a quiet car that the noise is really irritating in an otherwise quiet interior. Other than this noise, the car is great! Just a little bummed because my 2005 has zero rattles or noises and my gf's old 2009 also had no rattles or noises. The 2015 refresh is nice, though we're still on the fence about the front grille. My relative is waiting for the 2016's to be released later this year and then he will be buying one for his patrol car. The 2015 isn't a full redesign but it looks different enough that he wants to wait for the next MY to come out. He's dreading leaving behind his 5MT Civic but it needs to be replaced. He hasn't had an auto, ever, come to think of it..
It sounds exactly like this, and is at its worse when accelerating: [URL] ....
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