Ford Transmission :: Manual 5 Speed Trans - Spinning Noise After Push The Clutch In
Jun 29, 2013
My cluch is almost 2 years old and gets treated with kid gloves , I shift low in the RPM's And accelerate slow for smooth shifting and fuel savings (17mpg avg.). But as of yesterday I can here the gears wind up after I push the clutch in. No problems with power or gear handling , Just the sound of the gear(s) (low dry rev/wind sound) No visible leaks , Clutch has oil at the step mark. Also - I can Make The Trans create the same sound if I keep the clutch petal in and rev the engine.
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So ive been having issues with my trans 6 speed manual making noise and took it to the dealer. They more or less told me the trans is done, something with the linkage, need a new trans and clutch. They also told me my warranty was void because there was indication of a cold air intake before i bought the car and have reason to believe it's due to abuse. I've only driven this car 3,000 miles and have taken care not to beat or sport shift the car to avoid this very problem. I can't argue the fact that the previous owner could have very well driven the car hard and the problem might have been a ticking time bomb. I guess my best bet is to find a used trans and install myself but really dont know where to start.
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I currently own an mk6 gti with a manual trans... as of late I've been noticing a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is not engaged.. once engaged the rattling stops completely .. it seems to be getting louder and louder .. I am worried this could eventually turn into something worse than just a rattling noise .. i had a friend mention it could be the "throwout bearing" ..
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This lady at work has a 2011(?) Elantra sedan and she said she complained about her manual trans. not being smooth. She said the Hyundai mechanic adjusted something in the clutch and her transmission became smooth again. What part needs to be adjusted? She doesn't know and I would definitely like to know because I know it is not normal.
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So my accent with a manual trans has a small leak at the slave cylinder for the clutch. I am driving home and it's shifting hard. I get home pull up to where I live and push In the clutch and the car feels like the clutch is not pushed in. RPMs drop and car stalled. Look under hood and see not fluid in clutch master cylinder. Fill with fluid and pump pedal. I get some pedal back but the car will not crank. Nothing. I have accidentally cranked car when in gear in the past and there did not seem to be a safety switch as the car would move if my foot was not on brakes.
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I have a legacy. Notice some slippage between 2nd and 3rd and 3rd and 4th. Also noticing an extreme burning smell when vehicle first gets started (for about 15 min) it's gagging it's so strong and pours in through defrost but can be smelled standing outside car also. Finally I parked in friends garage and notice some dark weird colored fluid on ground when I backed out, I dont know if it's oil or transmission fluid.
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95 Ford Escort 1.9L, 330,000 miles. Never changed the clutch and i bought it with 80k on it. With that said the clutch never slipped and a lot of this is highway mileage so i never saw a reason to change the clutch just because.
Last week i pulled into the driveway i depressed the clutch pedal as i normally do and as i slowed, the car bucked like it was still in gear and didn't recognize the clutch was depressed. When it started bucking i tried to pull the gear shifter to neutral but it wouldn't move, the car finally died in it's parking spot. I quickly popped the hood and had my son press the clutch in and out and all components seemed to be moving fine, i was mainly looking at the slave cylinder assuming since it's a hydraulic clutch if it was a hydraulic issue that wouldn't move if i didn't have hydraulic pressure.
No obvious leaks were noted, i looked at the master cylinder and it seemed a little low but not empty maybe just above min. I filled it to max and still no change. So i assumed it was the clutch finally disintegrated and locked up. Yesterday i got in the car to attempt to move it to the garage to work on it. It started up fine, shifted through all gears with no issue's, drove it around for about 15minutes shifting a lot and pressing the clutch randomly and it worked fine.
I brought it back home and tried to kill it a few more times before i got it to the garage, it finally locked again but it was in neutral and i couldn't get into any gear. Turned the car off and then restarted and it shifted into gear, i pulled it into the garage and stopped with no other issue's.
Checked closer for leaks, between master and slave and couldn't find any. Pulled speedo cable and checked trans fluid, its brownish red (more brownish) and thin but didn't really smell burnt and it is at the correct level. Linkage has some slop in it but i don't see it binding anywhere, i layed under the car and was able to move linkage in/out of gear with my hand. It's easy enough to say the clutch is well over due for changing but since there were no signs of a failing clutch when i drove it i think i need to look elsewhere.
Could it be worn fluid? Could it be debris in the line? Or could it be that the fork just isn't engaging or disengaging properly due to wear?
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1994 E4OD Transmission.
Transmission was slipping terrible after vehicle warmed up. After feeling around for thoughts, it was suggested by numerous people that the transmission needed an overhaul.
Upon Disassembley the clutches were found to be excellent. They are actually thicker than the new ones in the kit. By .015" actually. Quite impressive considering they are 20 years old.
So now, I have kind of lost direction. If the original clutches are thicker than the new ones, and don't show signs of wear. What does that mean?
The fluid is pretty good, and there aren't fragments of metal. Nor is there any metallic shimmering to the color. It doesn't smell burnt or rotten either.
I have drained the torque converter and filled it with gasoline. I am going to spin it and hopefully knock any sediment loose.
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I have 2013 Honda Accord 6 sp manual with 25k miles on, its clutch was completed gone last week, got new replacement, local Honda customer rep. told me I should watch my driving pattern, should using more break, instead transmission slow down, particular from high speed/high gears. I told them, we have 2008 Civic 5 speed Manual, I taught my two daughters how to drive it, and the car is still running without any problem… And, this is manual transmission car, tell a driver can not using/changing gears slowing down car is a joke… but maybe I am wrong...
Is there a possibility Accord has design problem with inferior clutch materials used on their new 6 speeds manual Accord? Since car has new clutch, should I keep it for a while? Or, sale it immediately? I just can’t not see I am going to come up another 3rd replacement on clutch before the car get into 60K miles.
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My 1997 Saturn SL2 with 5 speed manual transmission won't shift into first or second gear. When I shift into the location where first would be the car is in third gear. It shifts into 4th, 5th and reverse just fine, though the shifter is in the wrong position for those gears. I can wiggle the shifter in neutral and get it to move into the position where 5th and reverse are normally found, but it is stiff and makes a clunking noise when I move the shifter over to the far right side.
I have removed the center console and the bushing appears to be intact. Both cables are in their proper positions inside the vehicle and at the engine. One of the cables (the top one in the engine) has some wear and tear on the boot, but does not appear to be binding. Other than the stiffness and the clunking noise, the shifter seems to be working fine too.
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I am looking to change out my manual transmission in my 79 f150. I want to put a 5 speed in it but still keep my manual clutch. I have a 300 engine that I also want to keep, can I just put a late 80's early 90's 5 speed transmission in it and keep my original bell housing?
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First of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past. My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up.
Also regarding the trans fluid. my le has 80,000 miles on it and I am not sure whether or not the previous owner ever changed it before. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use. All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt-90 or amsoil MTF? I dont want to ruin the trans by putting in the wrong fluid and/or wrong quantity.
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I am in the nasty position of having to remove my 6-spd manual transmission to investigate the nasty whine in it. The dealer says $2300 to fix it and the parts are $100, so I am going to do it myself. I have been unable to find a repair manual yet for the 2010 Camry and I was wondering for step by step for removal of the tranny. I don't need a lot of detail, but it is nice to know the order in broad strokes.
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2004 Jetta 1.8T w/5 speed manual transmission. Bought the car this way, mostly for a parts car, but everything else runs and drives good, so if it wasn't for this issue it would be a decent driver.
Won't/can't select first gear. Seems like there is no "spot" for first, or that the shift mechanism has no where to go., locked out. All the rest of the gear selections work perfectly. Tried the cable adjust ritual, but it was fine-as I suspected. The shift assembly works/moves perfectly from the tranny end and the shift lever end. Not a synchro, it won't go in stopped, moving, running or shut off.
So, what's the probable best guess or best way to come to a diagnosis? Shift tower parts broken somewhere, or something like a shifting fork bent broken? Seems like if it was internal there would be other gear selections that would be affected. Any links to some diagrams?
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So when the car is idle i hear a weird rattle noise but when i push the clutch in the noise goes away.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Matrix. I want to change my manual transmission fluid in it. I have called dealerships and auto parts stores and keep getting different answers. I was wondering exactly what kind of fluid do I use and how much fluid do I use. I am not going to pay $219 for the dealership to do it but I want to make sure I put in the right kind and the right amount.
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I've been getting a spinning/whirring noise from the transmission when shifting from 1st to 2nd. It only lasts a few seconds, and seems to occur between 1st and 2nd. Since the transmission is still covered under warranty, I went to a dealer. I knew I needed a new clutch, so I had to let the dealer do the clutch replacement in order to get to the transmission. Once inside, they found my release bearing in several pieces, as well as "damaged gears." VW agreed to replace the transmission, but I still have the spinning noise. The car has 96K miles.
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad...
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My wife and I recently moved to Panama and we bought a 4 wheel drive 2007 Nissan Frontera diesel pick-up. Great little truck so far, 27 miles per/gal! However, the 5 speed manual transmission has started making a loud whine or growl under power. Down hill, gas pedal up, no noise. Clutch in, no noise. Gas pedal down, growling .Growl is related to ground speed as it stays the same when I shift gears.
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I have a 2011 Tiguan 125TSI with the 7 speed DSG. When it starts cold, you can hear a noise that sounds like a bad gear change when going from 3th to 4th, and 4th to 5th. It almost sounds like changing gears in a manual car without clutch completely depressed. It has been there since I got the car brand new, but recently it seems to be getting worse.
Once the engine gets warm, the sound goes away and gear changes are smooth.
I've asked the VW dealer about the sound and they tell me it is normal. Is this right? The problem is it is very hard to demonstrate to VW the issue since it may happen only once when the engine is cold. I've left it with the dealer overnight and they were able to reproduce it in the morning... but again, they tell me this is normal.
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How often should my A/C clutch be cycling when the compressor is being used. (i.e defrost, mix, a/c and max a/c). My clutch never cycles, it starts spinning when I turn something on and it does not shut off until I shut off the a/c. The truck is a 95 F-150 4.9L 5 speed...
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