If you are driving in 2wd and lose power to wheels is it possible the transfer case is the problem and not the transmission? This was in a 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4 automatic transmission.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
View 1 RepliesI was driving my 2006 Prius on the highway (120,000 miles on it). I'd been driving about 10 minutes and all of a sudden, the dash warning lights lit up.
Red triangle with exclamation point.
Yellow circle with exclamation point.
Yello check engine.
The car did NOT lose power. It kept driving fine with no noticeable change in how it operated. Fuel consumption stayed the same. Braking worked fine. I had a completely full tank of gas (had just filled it up before I got on the highway). Temperature outside about around 60 degrees.
I kept driving to my destination (another 20 miles at highway speeds). The car sat parked for about 3 hours. I returned to the car, started it up. The same warning lights appeared, except for the Yellow circle with exclamation point. Plus, this time I noticed on the energy monitor screen the graphic of the red car with the exclamation point.
Again though, everything seemed to be working fine. While the car had been parked for 3 hours I did some browsing through the owner's manual and saw a notation that is the warning lights were only yellow and not red that it was okay to proceed with caution to the nearest dealer.
I own a 2009 Nissan Sentra with a CVT transmission. It has about 65,000 miles. During the warmer months, my wife and I have both experienced times while driving (usually for more than 2 hours) when the engine would lose power while going up a hill. After doing some reading we learned that this was common in Sentra and Rogue models with CVT transmissions. Apparently the transmission fluid heats up, boils, and foams. The foam triggers a sensor that cuts power to the engine. Once the fluid's temperature decreases the car performs as it should.
We have visited the dealership and even have a case number with Nissan consumer affairs. After many appointments and phone calls, the only action taken was decreasing the level of transmission fluid. This action was approved by Nissan. This has worked a little but the issue still occasionally persists. For the record, neither my wife nor I are expecting this to drive like a race car. We'd just like it work correctly. I know Nissan has extended the warranty on this and many CVT transmissions.
My daughter has a 1995 Grand Prix - 3.1. The car has an intermittent problem that can go 2-3 weeks in between occurrences.
It runs like a top, but will suddenly lose power while driving and die completely. After a while it'll be fine. (starts up again.)
The lights will flicker and give a bit of warning before it dies. I had both crankshaft sensors replaced a month ago and I though that would do the trick.
I have a 2005 B6 TDi 2.0 sports 140bhp passat and have encountered a glow plug lamp problem. The light came on while i was driving and the car seemed to lose power. We then switched it off and restarted and it was fine but then the problem recurred a few days later. The light has come on both times when i have accelerated on the motorway. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesMy vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
View 1 RepliesI have a 06 sonata v6 with 120k. Today while driving the car started to lose power then the lights on the dash board flickered radio went nuts and the car lost all power. What could be causing this? Moved battery a little bit and got power back but then started driving and it did the same thing. I did have the heater on 2. You can feel it lose power while accelerating.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Honda Accord SE and I observe that the transmission slips, meaning the car revs but does not power the wheels. I have got this checked by a mechanic and he recommended a transmission replacement or live with it until it completely fails and then go for a transmission rebuild/replacement. The car has 115k miles on it and I did not do a transmission flush as per recommendation from the mechanic. He said that if I flush the transmission fluid, there is a high chance that the transmission will fail and will need an immediate replacement. I do not have any issues with the way the car drives now, but I am worried if something happens to the transmission while I am driving.
View 5 RepliesIs it normal for the Prius energy monitor to be showing that the ICE and motor are driving the wheels without any battery power? How can the motor drive the wheels without any battery being drawn going up a hill?
View 4 RepliesWhen I was driving my car the engine was running fine, but all of a sudden there would be no power to the wheels as I was driving. I tried shifting the car down into lower gears, but the car still was just coming to a stop even though I was revving the engine. I was able to limp home because I could turn the car off for about 30 seconds, and when I would start it back up the engine and transmission would work fine together for a few blocks and then I would have the same problem. I did check my transmission fluid, which was low (at the lower dot when hot). Could this problem be fixed by simply changing and filling the transmission fluid? Or do you think it is something else? My car is an automatic with about 114,000 miles. At about 98,000 miles I had a full tune-up and my timing belt was replaced.
View 6 RepliesProblem started 2 days ago, driving around and my truck would stumble and lose power. Give it gas, won't rev up but it cleared and ran fine for a mile or so then it comes back (off and on all the way home). Check engine light didn't come on the first few times, came on a couple times on the way home (maybe 4 mile trip) but goes off when the truck runs fine. Thinking it was maybe the fuel pump (got 140K on the stocker). Talked to a few friends, some thought it was algae build up in the tank that was clogging the filter on the pump, underhood filter changed a couple hundred miles ago. Looked fine with slight brown build up at bottom of bowl when I replaced it.
Ran it around yesterday with a friend of mine and his scan tool hooked up, acted up once, check engine came on for a few seconds and shutoff. No code and for some reason we couldn't get it to live data while driving. I dumped in an algae eater yesterday and left the truck overnight since I had to work. Got home this morning to run her around the block to circulate the eater. Truck started and idled fine, went to pull out and she won't rev up, pumped the gas and NOTHING! Check engine light is on now but don't have a scan tool handy to read it. I heard the truck will store the code?
What this problem might be? What's a good scan tool for our trucks that can live data as well? CPS is good and already did the UVCH mod.
I've got an E99 powerstroke. Recently it's been getting hard to steer, if not impossible. When I'm parked i can't turn the wheel and it gets better if i Rev the engine up, driving is usually ok and going around corners. It's just low speed, low rpm that it won't.
Also every once in a while when braking it feels like i lose all power brakes. The pedal goes to the floor and the brakes let go, then i can feel the pedal pump back up and i get a good feeling brake pedal again that actually stops well. All this happens within about a seconds time. But the steering is by far the worst.
I just did the power steering flush with atf and it didn't work. I'm thinking i need a new power steering pump, but want to ask here first to make sure. The truck has 290,000 on it, and it never has been replaced to my knowledge. I bought the truck with 147,000 however so it may have been done before that.
I just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.
I picked up a 2003 6.0 awhile back went ahead and did studs,gaskets, delete. Was driving it and seemed to lose power, started coughing and carrying on blowing bluish white smoke then shut off. Ended up hydrlocking #5, Oring on injector was tore when took out. Put all back together, ran horrible, did a balance test with AE, showed #3 injector, replaced, ran horrible, did AE dropped #1 injector. So in process of replacing the rest of the injectors. Just wondering why it is or was dropping them 1 at a time. Ficm was showing 47.6 to 48.6 volts, could that be it?????
View 14 RepliesThis all started more than a month ago. Our 13' GTI would cool off (temp gauge would drop) at idle. This did not take long, I could sit and watch the needle drop in a matter of just a few minutes. Next, the car would lose heat while driving. It could be 20 miles into a trip, and if you slowed down to say ~30 mph i.e., coasting to a stop, or slowing until a light changed the car would lose its heat. At one point, driving in heavy traffic, the car had no heat. Fan on 2, heat all the way up, at best you'd get luke warm if not cold air. Recirc did not make a difference. It simply struggles to stay up to temp, even under load.
The thermostat, water pump, check valve, and heater core have all been replaced by the dealership in an effort to fix the problem. I understand a small loss of heat idling with the heat up when its -15 out. My R actually cooled off a little bit the other day after idling (at 190 aka temp) for about 20 minutes. It was -15 and windy. The GTI isnt keeping heat, is slow to heat up, and randomly drops heat.
What am I missing here? This seems like a thermostat problem, however the thermostat was replaced! (they broke the water pump trying to replace the thermostat so that is new as well) It as never leaked coolant, it doesn't leak coolant, there are no codes thrown. The only modifications to the car is a raceland down pipe I installed myself. They have questioned if the down pipe could be causing this issue, which I highly doubt.
What kind of damage could this cause? Not staying up to temp, and being driven.
I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
View 8 RepliesI have a 98 Silverado, 2wd, 5 liter V-8, 180,000 miles. Occasionally, my truck will lose power. Driving down the road I lose speed and cannot accelerate. When I depress the accelerator the motor does nothing. This happens at any speed from take off to highway speeds. When it begins to happen I lose speed slowly for maybe 30 seconds then the service engine light comes on and the problem gets much worse. Sometimes it will sound like it's back firing but the sound is muffled. This seems to happen more often in damp weather but it can happen in dry weather too. And it doesn't always happen in damp weather. It happens in the morning or afternoon. Auto Zone put their tester on it and a code comes back for O2 sensor but the guy didn't think that would cause the trouble I'm having.
View 4 RepliesMy daughter drives a 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse. About 6 months ago, she noticed that occasionally when driving over a bump in the road her brakes lose pressure. The pedal goes nearly to the floor and the car is harder to stop. After a few days/weeks, the brakes return to normal. I was skeptical at first, but drove the car after one such incident and confirmed the lack of pressure. However, a Mitsubishi dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes while a specialty brake shop wanted to replace the master cylinder.
View 12 RepliesI had a dead battery on my '97 power stroke Ford F250. I realize now that when I was jumping it (successfully) I clipped the (black) ground cable to the alternator itself! Doy. The alternator is definitely dead now as I lose power after a few minutes of running the engine. My question is: did I blow a simple fuse or do I need to replace the whole alternator? How likely is it that I did further damage? I ask because I'm contemplating replacing the alternator myself. But maybe it would be wiser to get a tow to the mechanic.
View 4 RepliesHow to figure out what caused my rear seats to lose heat?
No heat, no illumination on the buttons
Fuse looks good