Ford Transmission :: Idle RPMs Are 800 In Park
Jun 18, 2014
I have a freshly built C6 in my F100. Vacuum line is new and not leaking. Idle RPM's are 800 in Park. Manifold vacuum is 16" in Park at idle and 14" in Drive at idle. I run a 2500 stall converter and a Hughes shift improver kit. The tranny is a '67 truck unit.
When slowing down at an intersection to make a turn; the tranny doesn't shift down. I make the turn and always pull away in Drive. The tranny does not shift down until about 5mph or less.
The tranny is now at a second shop and the tail housing has been pulled at least 4-5 times to check the governor. An early 70's valve body was even tried and yes; it will fit. Is this normal behavior for a C6? My Cruisomatic did the same thing.
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As of late, my 06 Camry (I4) idle's real rough @ 600 rpms when in park. It stays the same in drive with the A/C on. However, when I switch the A/C off, for about 2 secs, the idle will be smooth before dropping down in rpms. Some folks have said this is normal, but I've had this happened to my car before. I've got 135K on it so I'm guess a tune up is in order.
I'm new in the game of working on my car myself since a past issue with the dealer on my '06. So if all is needed is a tune up, I can do that myself with the parts of my choice.
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I just purchased my brand new 2014 F150 4x4 STX 5.0L single cab short box about a month ago. I noticed when I drove it off the lot that it had a slight vibration at low RPMs. I boiled it down to brand new stuff working out all the kinks and running around for the first time, bought a brand new jeep in 2005 and it made interesting noises and had funny vibrations for a while, but this is starting to get annoying. I have a very noticeable vibration at low RPMs both in park and while driving, more noticeable at speeds between 35-45 with RPMs anywhere from idle to 1500 or so.
I have not had it at the dealer yet, I want to be armed with a little bit of knowledge when I go in an talk to them if possible. I know how stealerships work and since it seems similar problems are somewhat common in these newer F150s, I don't want to get the "oh it's common in these trucks and perfectly normal". In my opinion a brand new truck should run smoother than melted butter on hot flapjacks, especially one that only has 1400 miles on it.
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I own a is350 been having this problem. I drive the car get home put it in park and rps go to 1500 and stay there feels like my idle stays high...
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Earlier this week, noticed that my car was surging on its own; basically, if I came to a stop, I could still feel the engine, like it wanted to just take off. And if I would have taken my foot off the pedal, it would have done just that. Also, I knew the car had gas, but sometimes, when starting the car it would not start at all. I would have to wait about 5 minutes or so and add major gas to it with the pedal and then finally it would engage. And then the last thing was that when I would get to my destination and put it in Park, the RPMs would go up to about 1500 or so, maybe a bit higher and then stay there and go back down to about 1000, without me pressing on the gas pedal at all. So anyway, thought it was the throttle position sensor, so I had my Dad install a new one on the car. It was a pretty easy process and thought that took care of the problem.
The surging part basically stopped, so the new TPS took care of that, but then it still had problems with starting. Took it to a car repair place the next day and they changed out the spark plugs, said that they were causing a misfire in the engine. Also changed ignition wires and a new gasket. So after they were done, drove away and all seemed to be fine, but then went to the dentist and Parked and then the RPMs went up again. Tried to start it immediately afterwards and it wouldn't start again. Tried a few minutes later, added gas with the pedal and it did start. Took it back to the car repair place, they drove it around, inspected everything and everything checked out fine. (Yeah, of course!) Ok, so just thought maybe the repairs were taking a bit to take effect. But later in the day, wouldn't start again.
So next morning, took it to the Hyundai dealer. They looked at everything for about 2 hrs, and said that there was a vacuum hose that was leaking, so they put on a new clamp but everything else checked out okay. Ok, so now it starts fine every time, but today it did that high RPM thing again when I put it into Park. It doesn't do it every time, but the RPM will just go up randomly then go back down and go back to normal. Should I clean the IAC with some type of carb cleaner to get out any carbon deposits? Or could it be a bad MAF sensor? Not sure what the symptoms are of that. Everything else seems to be okay now except for the random high RPMs when in Park and sometimes at startup too.
It's a 2 WD, V6 engine.
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1999 Saturn SW2. Here's a video of what's happening: [URL] ....
When the car is in park, pressing the brake pedal can make the RPMs go down, although sometimes it does nothing. Also, sometimes pressing the brake pedal kills the motor, especially if I put it in Drive or, even more so, if I put it in Reverse. Furthermore, my turning and hazard lights are now cutting in and out: sometimes they work, sometimes they don't.
As far as I can imagine, here are some options of what might be faulty:
fuel pressure regulator
coolant temperature sensor
computer
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My 2004 fx f150 with 177K miles is stalling (rpms bottom out) driving down the road and coming to a stop (coming to idle) and when trying to park. AND, its an intermittent problem.
Of course, not spitting any codes or CEL's. I've searched the site and there are multiple types of the same issues and solutions. Narrowed it down to either the dreaded vacuum line sandwiched against firewall and engine compartment, OR the cleaning of MAF, throttle body and IAC valve.
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An injector stuck open on my 05 5.4 and bent a rod. I had a new rod put in and all new revised Motorccraft injectors. This was about a month ago. Truck has ran great for the past 3 weeks until today I put it in park and it idles real rough, put it in gear and it smooth as butter again? (Once in a rare while it will continue to idle rough in gear for a few seconds but then clears up.) New motorcraft plugs were put in right before it bent the rod. The truck runs real strong other wise. I am about done with ford this pickup has been the biggest pile I've ever owned one thing after another and just when I think its fixed its some other stupid problem. I'll start by cleaning the maf and throttle body. Could it be a bad coil?
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What could cause this? I have 100k and I only notice this if in park or neutral at 1500rpms. It goes away before and after and it seems to drive very smoothly. I had a bad alternator and I just replaced it but the "new" one is making a high pitching ringing so I'm having the shop change that out for a new oem. Any chance it's the alternator or could this be something else. I have sea foamed the throttle body recently and cleaned the maf recently and changed the air filter. I didn't do plugs but they are do at 120k
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1992 Buick Park Avenue - Base
This morning my serpentine belt tore and slapped everything for a few minutes and I'll be receiving a new one tomorrow or the day after, but that's not the trouble, I just feel it's related as that is when this problem started. In the last 2 months I have replaced the Cam sensor and interrupter, timing chain and tensioner were in good shape. replaced the ICM, coils, wires, and plugs and used dielectric grease on all connectors, including the cam sensor and new crank sensor, also replaced the harmonic balancer, fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, PCV valve, alternator, and a new pigtail is coming for the cam sensor as some of the wires had bare spots. This plug is currently taped and shoved out of the way, not plugged in, and has been for a week, so I doubt it's relevant.
This issue is : The car fires up fine, but has great difficulty idling and stalls too often to drive after a few minutes. At higher RPMs it only misses or misfires occasionally. With the serpentine belt off, the car idles much smoother. Tonight I plan to try tightening the harmonic balancer again, running the with MAP sensor unplugged, again with the exhaust O2 sensor removed.
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2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
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I have a 1992 Ford Escort. It's a junker (literally - it has a recovered title, the car having been totaled at some time in the past), but it gets me around. Or, it did.
The battery went dead a while back, and I'd been using the wife's car. She had to be out of town, so I got a new battery. Car started right up, but I couldn't get the transmission out of Park. I think there are switches to make sure that the brake is on, etc., that have to be made before the car can be put into gear. Is there anything I can do? Where are these switches? Obviously, I can't drive the car to a shop, and I'd prefer not to have it towed unless there's no alternative.
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1997 Ford F150 4.2 liter V6 with Eod transmission. I have replaced the shift actuator, the brake switch, the ignition switch and tumbler, tightened all nuts and bolts on and around the steering column shifter, and had a mechanic replace the shift cable and go through the wiring from front to back. He couldn't figure out the problem.
I recently noticed while coming to a stop on a gravel road I touched the brakes and the front brakes locked up. I have anti-lock on this truck so is this normal and could this maybe be the problem with no brake lights and not coming out of park? Just for giggles I also had to come to a sudden stop in town on pavement a couple times and the tires locked up so hard I could smell rubber burning where the tires slid.
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having never been into an E4OD, I have a quandary. I have an F-350 with a 460 engine with the E4OD trans. the trans works fine, but wouldn't go into park. I pulled the pan and tail housing and found that the thrust washer behind the park wheel had broken and dropped down to obstruct the pawl from engaging. I have no problem in tearing into a C-6 on back, but the E4OD, I'm not so sure. I had considered just pulling the trans and replacing it with a used one. I can find all kinds of trannies, but NOT the '89 to '91 that I'm told is what is needed because of the electronics. I have been told that the '87 to '97 will work but I have to swap out the electronics? is this so, and how much of a mess is that to do? OR, someone told me that it is possible to use the 4X4 trans by putting on my tail housing? doesn't sound right to me, but what do I know? any pointers????
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I have a 97 ford taurus that when it is at idle (either in driver or park) it over heats. But if you give it some gas and the rpms get up to over 2300 the temp starts dropping immidiatly down to where it should be. Also the heater in the car stopped working not sure if the problems are connected.
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Car surges/rocking at idle whether at idle or in park but runs fine. have new plugs and wires new 02 sensor and mas air flow but still the same problem..
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I'm trying to find out what I need to check or replace to get my 2000 Excursion to idle at normal rpm's in park and neutral.
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My truck has a similar rough idle and I decided to investigate. What my plug gap was supposed to be as I didn't have access to my owners manual at the time. The specs I was given (.041-.047) is what I followed and recapped my plugs .045. The idle improved a great deal.
Now I was wondering and finally got around to checking my owners manual after I read somewhere that the gap for the 5.0 changed between 12 and 13 model years. What I found in my owners manual is that the gap I'm supposed to have is from .049-.053. My plugs were out anyway at .057. I will leave them be at .045 but am wondering why the change from .041-.047 on the 2011 model years to .049-.053 on the 2012+ model years? I assume the engine hasn't changed, so am curious of the thought process.
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92 PA Base, 141,000 mls
Whenever I have to drive for more than 50 - 75 miles or for one hour at a constant speed, the engine causes the car to buck and loose acceleration. When I press the gas pedal down to the floor, the rpm's stay at zero or when I lightly press the gas pedal, it would accelerate but with noticeable hesitation and difficulty. I go from maintaining speeds of 70 miles down to 40 miles. It also feels like no fuel is getting to the engine. This causes me to pull over for a few minutes, shut the engine off, and then its okay to drive for a few more miles.
I replaced the fuel filter and the MAF sensor. When I changed the MAF, I noticed that the bottom portion of the old one where the little wires are, was broken. I really thought that was the issue but when I replaced it, it started doing the same thing. What should I check or replace next?
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My 02 trans with 189k miles on it has lately started not going into park completely. Every once in a while it will feel like it is in park, but when i get out of the truck it starts to roll away, and the park pawl can be heard ratcheting. The shift tube screws are tight, as is the tube itself and the shift lever. Does this sound like the trans will have to come out?
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My Dad has a 01 f150 xtended cab 5.4 auto. Some of this info is second hand. He had driven it on a trip about 50 miles,when he started it to return he said it did not want to engage, put it in gear and nothing happened. Messed with it a bit and got it to go. was fine for about 30 miles or so. Then it started to make noise. I trailered it home and drove it a couple hundred yards to the shop. It sounds like a very large, very dry bearing, also seemed to catch/lock up then clunk.
With the wheels off the ground you can kick it into neutral and while the wheels are still rolling it quiets down. Also it does it sometimes while in neutral. When it is in park it sounds like stuff is still turning. At fist I thought wheel bearing or rear end until it made noise in neutral and park. The noise in park is not loud, just sounds like things are turning. It is full of fluid. The tranny has always worked flawlessly and still does even with the noise. Where to start looking? Transfer case?
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