Looking for a pic or diagram or able to explain it well, of how the valve body engages the shift linkage/kickdown on a c6. I need a pic of the actual valve body itself and how it engages INSIDE the pan NOT externally.
View 14 RepliesI recently purchased a 2000 Expy 5.4 with AWD. The issue is when in Drive it is only in 1st. I can manually shift it to 2nd. If I get it up to 40 and shift it back to drive it just reeves if I am going 30 and do that it throws it back in 1st.
So I searched a lot of the forums, I asked the previous owner some questions. Been 80 to 90k since the last tranny fluid change. Said he tighten the shift cable when it first noticed it was not shifting right and then it started to shift hard (squeal the tires). I ordered a rebuilt valve body assembly, came with plate, solenoid, accumulator and valve body. The supplier indicated this was the fix for my symptoms.
I dropped the pan. A bolt from the solenoid was in the pan. No magnet. The oil smelled more like axle grease, but did not really see signs of metal sludge in the pan or filter. Dropped all the components, yeah that accumulator plate is not for the faint of heart, I found all the rubber fortunately.
I found a couple decent pictures showing where they go in the tranny, the plate pictures were missing to many of the 'other' holes to use that as a guide. I saw a comment to use petroleum jelly to hold in place, I used that trick and it seemed to work. Put everything back together, torqued all the valve body nuts and bolts to 8 ft lbs, figure that is approx. 96 inch lbs and in the 80 -100 recommendation, new filter. Added 8 qts of oil back into the pan.
With it still on the stands started it up and went thru the gears down and up stopping in each one. Set it down and went for a test drive. Same exact behavior. Drive is first, can manually upshift to 2nd, put back in Drive at a slow speed and it goes to first, at a high speed it acts like it is in neutral. What I missed, do I have a clutch problem, or ?????
I started my Subbie and all the lights just start going crazy on my dash. So I pulled of the road and started freaking out, Never had a hint of a problem. So I pulled in AutoZone and they ran the codes and now I'm being told I have to replace the brain to my transmission WTH? I don't own a DODGE!!! Had 3 different dodges and the tranny went on all. So I wont own one because of transmission problems. Now my Subaru has been parked since it can only get worse. Is this normal? All the error codes are...
P0700 Transaxle Control System (MIL Request)
P2762 Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Range/Performance
I just finished replacing the Valve body gasket in my 99 ranger with the 4.0 liter v6 with the 5r55e trans. My problem now is that I have no gears i can shift it but the gears do not engage.. I did install the updated bonded separator plate and the tsb for the blow off valve with it.
View 6 RepliesIv heard a few things about changing the valve body. I tow a trailer so was wondering on pros and cons of changing this. And also what brands are recommended.
View 5 RepliesSo I just got 42dd shifter bushings and im having some issues!
Installation was no problem but once you complete the install you are supposed to re-adjust the linkage. First you have to lock the shifter in place, both in the cabin and in the engine bay (as shown in this Diesel Geek video: [URL] .... )
The only trouble I'm having is that i cannot locate the locking pin as shown in this integrated engineering picture: [URL] .....
About, one month ago my car shut off while driving(pretty scary at the time). I pulled of the road and attempted to start it again. Everything looked good there, but as I was making my way home from work it started to act funny. It would not acknowledge me depressing the accelerator. When I got home, I ate supper, then went to have a look.
The car would turn on, but not acknowledge me pressing the accelerator at all, It did however go up to 30 mph at a snails pace as if it was coasting down a hill. I plugged in my code reader, and it read that the Throttle Body Valve was stuck open. I took it off and tore into to it a bit. I noticed the gears inside the TB itself were corroded and the butterfly valve was locked up.
I replaced the part, and tried to turn my car on with the new TB. All the dash lights are in working order, however upon turning the ignition to crank the engine, the whole car system shuts down. No lights no nothing, besides the car door open sound. The car will remain like this regardless of the key position until I have reset the batter(take off the terminals and put them back on) to which the process repeats itself.
The code reader says no codes are stored because I obviously reset the battery. So now am at a standstill.I believe the old TB froze up, because I had to run in through 3 ft standing water during a storm, and then deployed shortly after(I'm in the service) for a few months while letting the car sit.
I've been getting a really "rough" gear shift between first and second, almost like someone hit my car from behind. All other gears are super smooth though. No error's on VAG COM or anything. I'm just a bit confused if an error's are thrown or is it something the dealer needs to identify?
View 5 RepliesCar is 2000 Corolla with 60k miles that sometimes has a low idle (sometimes) when driven for the first 15 minutes early morning. Especially when accessories turn on, the RPM drop suddenly to 600 and recovers to 623 then back to 650rpm. After 15 minutes, everything works fine (normal 650 rpm)....my guess is the IAC Valve/throttle body needs cleaning.
What exactly do I need to tell me mechanic? That both the IAC Valve and throttle body needs to be clean? Also, after "cleaning it using a spray"....should he wait till the "spray dissipates"? What happens if it goes inside the engine?
I have a 2009 Camry which has the well known very bad vibration at idle when in drive at a light. My Ultragauge shows the RPM are very low when it vibrates. Sometimes it drops to around 425-450 rpm when at a stop light in drive (automatic car). Then it sometimes moves up to around 625-675 rpm and that is when the vibration completely disappears and it is nice and smooth. This issue is intermittent but happens everyday.
Most people think it is due to a bad engine mount and spend money doing that and get no results.
I have done a lot of research and feel it is due to a dirty throttle body and IAC valve and want to test my theory. I will post results once I do the job. What is the easiest and most thorough way to clean both?
My 94 e4od does a few things. It doesn't seem to engage positively all the time. It doesn't grab well in manual 1st, but does in D. I had the FIPL reset at the dealership and he said he never saw a FIPL needing to be set so far one way. Also it has overheated a few times. Either the TC doesn't lock up correctly or its just not all the way in gear (if thats possible) I changed the fluid but it did it again recently.
Also the speedometer is jumping around like a nut case, the abs light is on...sometimes, when I have the headlights on and put my right turn signal on it feels like the TC locks up. Oh, yeah the lights are all jacked up in the back. The left turn signal light also has a small amount of voltage when I put the headlamps on (my test light lights up dimly) I thought it might be the multi function switch so I removed that and cleaned the connections. Nothing changed but I dont think that was it. I have troubleshoot this all day and I don't have too much of a clue to whats going on.
'96 Explorer 4.0l V6 4X4... 214,000 miles. So, I'm having some transmission slippage and was wondering what can be done about it. You see the mileage and the only thing done to the trans was a drain and filter/fluid replacement at 120,000 miles.
Here's what's going on... When cold, in the morning, I put it in drive, trans engages, I move maybe 20 feet and it disengages. I wait up to 20-30 seconds and it engages and slips right back out. I wait, engages, move 50 feet and it disengages. You get the picture. After doing this 4-5 times it will engage and I can drive a 100 miles with no problem. Seems like it need to build up pressure or warm up before it will drive normally. I've checked the fluid and it is at the correct level. I guess my question is, would I be wasting time and money to replace the filter and fluid again or is it just warn out?
I've read when a trans starts slipping after it's warmed up means it needs a rebuild and mine is the opposite.
1996, f150, 300, 4x4, 5 speed, 296,000 miles... My pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch engages and about a half inch, maby less, of travel back out the clutch disengages. I think it is about time for a new clutch. My question is what is the best clutch to put in my truck?
while i have the transmission slid back to replace the clutch i am planning on replacing the slave cylinder while im in there as well. Any particular brand better than the next on that item? Are there any other items that I should think about replacing while i have the transmission slid back to do the clutch?
1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
I own a 1971 Ford F-250 Custom with the 4 Speed Synchronized Warner T-18 transmission. When I put in the clutch, once it engages, it makes a very loud whirring noise. I'm not concerned about the noise as much as possible issues with the transmission itself.
View 1 RepliesI recently changed the clutch in my 1967 F 250, all was golden. This was about 5 months ago , just the other day when going from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a clang and popping feel. the truck was making similar noises before the clutch blew out causing me to change it last time.
View 1 Replies05 F-350 6L .. Automatic Transmission
When I got the truck I noticed it would slam hard into reverse. Ever since it is taking longer to engage reverse gear and now I have to rev it to 1000 rpms for it to engage with a hard SLAM.
I also noticed that if I do a fast take off, there is a knocking sound coming from drive shaft/differential area (like knock knock knock knock knock then goes away). Then a slight vibration ending at around 30 kph (~20 MPH). There is also some oil leaking from the transmission. I added some mercon sp yesterday - it was a bit low.
My guess for the knocking and vibration is the center support bearings and U-joints. Transmission??? One thing I know I am going to be banging away at that shaft but the transmission problem really scares me.
V10 - When you shift into tiptronic to brake going downhill, the engine first revs up and then the transmission engages. Sort of an automatic double clutch!
View 2 RepliesI just purchased a used a Lexus GX470. The transmission seems to do something fairly consistently that seemed unusual to us, but we are new to this car so I'm not sure if it is normal, abnormal, or a sign of something big to come.
When starting from a complete stop, upon removing your foot from the brake, there is a noticeable mini-surge in the engine as the transmission engages, and the sensation seems to repeat when the transmission is disengaging as you brake to stop.
Does this sound normal? From searching on google, I have read that there are issues with "hard shifting" but this does not seem to happen with shifting...just when the transmission engages or disengages, and it isn't a big 'bump' as much as a mini-surge. I have also read where it could be related to something electrical such as the air conditioner.
The car is under warranty, but the service department notes no error codes when they scanned the engine.
1983 chevy c10I bought this old truck about a week ago and I noticed a few things right from the start. Engine revs kind of high before the transmission engages (about 1,200+ rpms).at highway speed the truck shakes and vibrates really bad at times. the steering wheel doesn't vibrate so I dont think it`s ball joints or tie rods.The truck barely goes backwards when in reverse, the engine revs high (over 2000 rpm) but the truck barely moves backwards.It almost feels like the emergency brake is on.
yesterday the truck (transmission?) started slipping and then it stopped working. I was stopped on the side of the road and this old guy stopped.I told him what happened and he said it was probably the transmission but he knew a way to get it working again long enough to get me home. He picked up a handful of sand from the side of the road and put it in the transmission dip stick hole and then poured half a bottle of brake fluid in.He said the transmission is gone anyway so the sand and brake fluid wont do it any more harm.The truck ran again but not far enough to get me home I had to get it towed. Now I am wondering if it really was the transmission and not just the torque converter. I guess it doesn't matter now because the transmission is probably toast now.
When cold starting the transmission shifts into reverse perfectly, then after backing up the car and shifting into drive it hesitates for 4 or 5 seconds before it engages the forward gear.
2008 Accent 4 door automatic 77,000 KM