Ford Transmission :: Fluid Flooding Out In Rubber Plug Area?
Jun 29, 2006
Transmission started pouring out transmission flud the other day. was pulling a small trailer with my HD... I crawled under and it is coming out in the rubber plug area. So what is the worst. I had recently replace all the fluid and filter. Another question I have located a used EOD4 that was supposed to have been rebuilt 20k or so ago. and special requirement to pull the trans and to replace it in my truck. Or is the repair to the leaky trannny something to consider.
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Dad gave me an 87 Ford ranger a couple weeks ago. I love it. Everything works except I'm having transmission leak issues when I drive her more than 30 miles or so.the symptom is fluid puking out inspection plate area. I checked coolant lines today and unfortunately they are working great. I've had a couple suggestions recommending replacement of the front seal our front pump seal (is there a difference?)
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About 2000 miles ago, I had the transmission on my liberty serviced. I had the pan dropped, the fluid drained / refilled, and the filter replaced. The work was done by a jeep dealer. The jeep ran fine with no rough shifting or error codes - in fact, I drove it 500 miles this weekend without incident. This morning, I backed out of my garage and found a big puddle of red fluid on the ground.
I warmed the vehicle up, and checked the transmission fluid level. It appeared to be low, so I added some (about 1/3 a quart). I then looked underneath the jeep and observed red fluid leaking from the transmission pan area. I ran my finger around the bottom of the pan and ended up with more fluid on my hand.
The fluid is clean - no discoloration or burnt odor. What might my problem be? Could it be an improperly sealed trans. pan? Something else?
The jeep is an '03 and the transmission is original to the vehicle. Bought it with 83K and have done fluid / filter changes at 90K, 120K, and 153K. Currently at 155K.
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I was just under my 2000 F250 7.3l crew cab truck and noticed a small diameter rubber hose dangling from my front drivers side brake housing area. It is attached near two other cables which are similar to cables on the passenger side. I don't see a similar hose on the passenger side. The hose is completely deteriorated and broke off up higher towards the engine. I cannot see where it goes. What it may be?
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About two weeks ago I changed the haldex fluid at 61K. I just drained the fluid and then filled it with the new stuff from the tube. I did not open the check plug. (I changed the fluid and filter at 40k and didn't open the check plug then either.)
Early this week I noticed a wet spot on the garage floor. There was a fluid drip coming out of the rubber stopper near the rear driver side jacking point. Last night I pulled the rubber plug and cleaned the fluid residue as much as possible. Today, I drove the car to work and put a clean white frisbee under the car to catch any drips. There were just a few drips in the frisbee at the end of the day. I compared the drip to the haldex fluid that was drained out a couple of weeks ago. It appears to be the same, but I'm not sure.
I'm dreading what it might mean if the haldex system is leaking, and I don't want to drive the car with low fluid. So I jacked the car up on all four corners, opened the check plug and a 1-2 ounces of fluid drizzled out. From what I can tell by the wet spots on the garage floor, less than an ounce has dripped out so far. (Also, I started the car and put it into 1st gear and all four wheels spun...so at least I know the haldex is still working.)
If the system had too much fluid, could it have blown a seal someplace..
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I used to have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0. Loved the truck but sold it because I didn't have a place to store it.
So I bought a 2000 E.B. Explorer! I love it thus far, I was doing a tune-up and now I hate it. I was changing the spark plugs and one of the spark plugs had a lot of rust around it. As I was chipping the rust away so I could get a socket around it coolant started to come out right below the spark plug
I have attached pictures too.
I don't know what this could be. I have done my research, anything from the lower intake manifold gasket to a cracked head. Need info about this type of leak? its no where near any gaskets, I have a friend that says I could have hit a coolant chamber but I wasn't banging hard at all.
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My car is in the shop and has a leak at the Power Steering Pump. The rubber O-ring on the Power Steering Pump Solenoid Valve (p/n 4417030120) is leaking fluid. The Solenoid Valve is ok, just the Rubber O-ring is bad, but it looks like you have to buy a complete new Solenoid Valve to get the O-ring (a lotta bucks).
I did find a Lexus Power Steering Pump rebuild kit online at, but I can't see if it includes the solenoid valve o-ring or not. Have to replace their solenoid valve o-ring?
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Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
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5.8L C6 .... I can't get a good reading on my transmission fluid level. When the truck is cold the level is well above (2") the checkered area.
When the truck is hot, I can't read the dipstick. It either has a little bit of oil well above the checkered area, or there isn't enough in the transmission to register.
How to get an accurate reading?
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In the "Old days" I could pull the one-and-only coil wire and trigger the starter motor to rotate the converter so the plug was at the bottom. How do ya do this with COP engines so the engine does not start?
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I have a 4bbl intake on my 390, and an edelbrock 750/w manual choke on it. #1407. I can drive this truck just fine for the most part, it has good power while using the primary two barrels. (I think the ones always in use are the primaries?) Anyways if i open all four up, pedal to the floor, but at about 45+ mph, the engine runs no problem, although it seems to drop rpm slightly once the 2nd two barrels are opened.
BUT, if I am shifting, like today example 2nd to 3rd, and floor it from the shift, it popped and died out, flooded. Happened to me twice today within an hour. the first time it flooded I'm not sure why it happened, but the second time was as stated above. Is the carb just too much and floods when floored like that? Anything I can do to eliminate this? accelerator pump setting? If I have too i'll end up buying a 600 eventually, but stick with the 750 for now...
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Noticed a small oil spot on my drive way where i park my truck the other day. Got up underneath and saw it was leaking from a rectangular rubber grommet on the front of the transmission bell housing.
What could be causing this? Have heard a few different things, turbo line leak, turbo pedistals, HPOP leak. Seeing what Super Duty Nation thought of the problem. Going to the dealer sometime this week.
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Ok so I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC .. The girl that owns it went out and started it to warm up and went back in the house , when she came back out it had died and wouldn't start .. I hauled to our shop and started diagnosing it .
It has spark
has fuel
Timing is good
Fuel pressure regulator is good
Crank sensor is good
About 62 PSI fuel pressure
No CEL
Seems to be getting WAY too much fuel and fouling plugs !
Replaced ECM ...same thing .
Used NOID light on injector wire and I have never seen one get so bright !
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I have an intermittent brake noise, which sounds like rubber rubbing against rubber. There is no discernable effect on the brakes, pulling, etc. My mechanic can find noting wrong with the brakes.
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I got home yesterday around 5 pm, and after 5 1/2 hours, noticed a buzzing noise from the battery area. It was 50 degrees out, so I don't think it needed cooling? Anyway, I plugged it in for a minute and the sound changed, then unplugged and after a few minutes the sound shut off. Never experienced this before, so long after shutting down. No sound this morning and charging now, no problem so far.
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My engine is running rich, flooding? My truck is a 1986 F-150 302 EFI. The engine idles rough, black smoke and soot comes out the exhaust pipes, and black soot on spark plugs. Symptoms seem to disappear if I throttle the engine and hold it, but as soon as I release the throttle the symptoms reappear and in most case causes the engine to die. These symptoms have just started a week ago. What the problem is.
Fuel injectors are cleaned and rebuilt. New plugs and wires. All new fuel pumps and filters. New air filters. New fuel pressure regulator. New dual function reservoir. New 3-piece timing set. New O2 sensor. New EGR Valve and sensor. New idle air control valve. New distributor, cap, and rotor. New ignition coil. New high volume oil pump. New alternator. New pcv valve. New knock sensor and air charge temp. sensor.
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I've noticed a gurgle type noise coming from within the dash board (it seems) while my T is idling at a traffic light. When I accelerate from a stop, it seems to go away. I'm thinking it's coolant running through the heater box. I have a V-8.....
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Just fired up my 2002 SC430 (115k miles) for the first time this year, so it's stood for over six months. Connected fresh battery, checked all fluid levels etc. Runs fine and purrs like a kitty BUT I'm getting a loud intermittent squeal (like you might get with a sticky pump or a slipping belt). Almost like a loud "meow" in duration & tone. So loud it can be heard from 20' away. Sometimes once per minute or two, sometime several times in a row then silence for a few minutes.
This is from the area where the Brake Fluid Reservoir is (on Right Hand Drive SC430 this is right by the Windscreen on the left hand side of the engine bay as you look at it from the front of the car (may be reversed on Left Hand drive models). Directly in front of the Steering Wheel.
(ABS) check light is on. Also "VSC" & "VSC off" check lights on (probably related to ABS being in check and VSC button does nothing to clear those lights). Also getting the buzzer alarm from the dash. Pumping the brake pedal and driving the car forward/back 10' several times on the driveway doesn't clear this.
Now, this may be that the Brake Pads have bound to the Discs (Rotors to you left-pondians). I may need to pop the wheels off and free up the Pads in that case.
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Ive been using synthetic 5w-20 for about 7k miles on my 09 corolla s, has hit 100k. Was looking under the engine and small amount of oil on the drain plug. I had the drain plug replaced about 15k miles ago and not sure if thats where its actually leaking from.
Should I switch to high mileage oil? Ive used 5w-30 high mileage awhile ago to go with the good ol oil consumption with this year engine and didnt like the dip in mpg's and felt like the car couldnt run as well as it should. I switched to synthetic to take better care of the engine after using high mileage for about 6k miles.
Question 1 - Should I switch back to high mileage?
Questions 2 - Should I use Lucas oil leak product? (I use the gas cleaner)
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I have an 03 escape 3.0 4wd that seems to be flooding out. When I start the truck the rpms go up to 4 then it drops down...then drops to nothing and will choke off. If you drive it sometimes it will cut off when driving but this just started happening and after turn the truck after you can smell gas... It not my daily driver I use it to drive on the beach...
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Here's the scoop, was driving down the freeway the other day, car is a 2001 PT Cruiser going about 65-70 MPH when all the sudden it felt as if I had hit something, a loud bump sound which came from underneath the engine, then an immediate reduction in speed and acceleration. After that, I was trying to accelerate the car, the RPMs were revving like crazy but the car would not go more than 15 MPH, while the RPMs were revving and revving, almost as if I was in park.
Got the car to the side of the road, opened the hood and found that the top of the dipstick (transmission) had blown off and shot transmission fluid all over the engine. Unsure of why this happened but sure that was what the loud sound was before the drastic drop in acceleration.
After that I had the car towed to my house, now it will start, but not drive in reverse at all, i'm afraid to try driving it to inspect it further but that's pretty much where I am at right now. There's 117k miles on this car...
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