Yesterday I had a flashing O/D light come on for about a minute, a quick scan shows a P1747 code indicating a short in the EPC solenoid circuit. Poked around the harness this morning and found this:
I'm guessing transmission fluid shouldn't be there. Do I have to replace the whole internal transmission harness to solve this? How much of a job is that?
One day I was driving my truck 96 f150 4x4 Eddie Bauer edition and the over drive light started flashing and the truck got jerky going up hills. I got home and hooked my code reader up and (p0708) it said transmission range sensor. I replaced that the next day and drove it around town for about 30 minutes and parked it all seemed to good. But the very next day I started down the road and the transmission was slipping very bad after I turned around after a few hundred feet I barley made it back to my house. I checked my transmission fluid it's full and doesn't smell burnt or anything, I double checked the alignment on the neutral safety switch I just installed and it still in line. So I'm thinking my transmission is going out...
View 4 RepliesIts a 2004 f 150 5.4 2 wd auto, I think is a 4r70w, when I first start out in the morning I get a trans malfunction on the dash and the od light flashes, if I shut the truck off and restart it goes away for the rest of the day, when it does this the speedometer doesn't work right, vss?
View 2 RepliesI have a VW golf 2010 with original rims and tires. Suddenly the tire pressure light came on I checked the pressure of each tire and they are fine, but the light keeps flashing for 1 minute and then is on. I checked the manual and it reads malfunction in the system. I took it to the dealer in my country but they they told me they won"t bring this model here so I am out of luck. How to reset this light or what to do.
View 24 RepliesWorking on a 2004 E-250 van. [URL] ....
I went through this transmission completely, its back in the van and I get no 1-2 shift.
when I first put it together, I missed the hole in the flex plate for the torque converter stud and started tightening the bell housing bolts down, I heard loud "POP" and realized what I had done. maybe I damaged the pump?
forward and reverse engagement is firm, both give a nice bump when it goes in gear. This tells me the forward clutch is working, but the intermediate clutch is not applying to make second gear happen.
I have done all the easy stuff I can think of, replaced the shift solenoid and put in a new 1-2 accumulator piston. I guess i need to air check the intermediate clutch piston again and make sure its applying. this a 2004 model trans, so it has the new style pump and intermediate piston.
98 ford expedition 4.6 2wd, 4r70w only reverse works. Here's the low down on what happen.
First off the truck overheated a little then was cooled off and coolant added. about a week later it wouldn't go forward so i told my wife to check the tranny fluid it was low barely on the dipstick, fluid was added and she was on her way. this past weekend the truck sherd all 5 lugnuts on the driver rear wheel. fixed that but went to drive it away and the tranny was slipping a little. added 2 quarts to fill and on the way again. 3 days later went to drive it to my dads shop to find out where the fluid is going, its slips again, added 2 quarts to fill just to drive 6 miles.
It drives fine until i get to my destination we have to stop to open a gate, i put in neutral to roll back to open the gate and no forward gears, only revers. i drive backwards to the shop about 300' and the tranny is empty again. looks like the fluid is going into the radiator which i'm sure caused the overheating a couple weeks back. no water is getting into the tranny. I've changed the filter and fluid and radiator, but still no forward gears only reverse. could there be an easy fix, electrical part maybe or mechanical or do you think its trashed and need replacing.
I have a 2005 ford expedition with 91000 miles, it has the 5.4 w/ the 4r70w transmission.
For some reason when my truck tries to shift into 4th gear, the RPM's climb to approx. 3000 rpms (meanwhile the truck is not gaining speed) and slowly drops down to about 1000-1500. once the rpms drop down fourth gear eventually engages and I can go about my business as normal as long as I do not let my mph drop too low.
If I turn O/D off, the truck drives perfect, minus not having overdrive.
If I come to a dead stop and put the truck in 2nd gear, with O/D on the truck drives great and it has good engine braking so I am assuming that the band is holding.
I took it to a transmission shop to have some diagnostic checks done, they told me that fourth gear was barely engaging and that they would have to tear apart the transmission to diagnose it further, I told them not to disassemble the transmission.
So I changed out the torque converter (which I assumed was "fourth gear") and changed out all the fluid, the fluid looked a little burnt but there was no debris in the pan but there was some silver material on the tranny pan magnet, and installed a new filter. and the problem still exists.
I've been making steady progress tearing down the transmission from my 2002 E-150 but have reached a point that I can't continue. The ATSG AODE manual says to "Rotate the shell assembly to align indent with overdrive anchor pin and then Remove forward sun gear." This is the step right after removing the intermediate stub shaft.
Well, the stub shaft came right out but the shell will not rotate, move, or do anything. It certainly cannot be removed. How to get this out?
Background: The trans is being worked on due to a failure that prevented it from being driven and it actually stalled the engine when shifted into any forward gear. It would idle in park or neutral. It would also still allow the engine to run in reverse but the van would still not move. I was able to push it into the garage in neutral.
I have a 98 expedition with a 4.2 liter 4x4 and what I believe to be a 4r70w transmission (u code on the door sticker)
The original transmission went at 105k miles and was replaced with a new factory ford transmission by a ford dealer 3.5 years ago. The new transmission only has 10k miles on it.
Now the new transmission only has reverse. reverse works like normal but no forward gears. the idle will change when i put if in gear, but will not move, acts like it is in N . There is no strange noises.
It's hard to believe a new trany is shot already, no towing, or off road use.
My question is : is there ANYTHING that can go bad that would cause this? The trany fluid is clean and clear bright red, and no burnt smell.
I want to check everything I can before calling a tow truck to have it looked at. I will have it repaired if needed, but I don't think I want to replace another tranny.
I just put a rebuilt 4r70w in my '97 expedition and it shifts good but in 4th gear when I let off of the accelerator it starts to shudder until it shifts to 3rd. It acts like it is freewheeling then catches on and off. My thoughts so far is that I don't have the digital transmission range sensor positioned right or the overdrive servo isn't working properly.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer with a 4R70W trans behind a 5.0 liter. Vehicle sat for about 5 months. Went out to put it back on the road, and now the trans seems to be stuck in a forward gear no matter what the selector is in, park, reverse, neutral. Dropped the pan and replaced the filter and replaced what fluid was drained. no difference,.
View 3 RepliesSituation is I have a 92 F150 2WD donor truck. 5.8l will be going into my 80 F150 4X4. E4OD transmission is long gone, but I do have a 4R70W from a 96 Explorer. Bolting it together is no problem, but there are differences in the transmission controls. E4OD uses a coast clutch, 4R70W does not. EPC, shift solenoids and TCC are compatible. I do not want to use a 5.0l PCM or add external controllers like the Baumannator.
Question is, can I control the 4R70W with the PCM that comes with the 5.8l?
I'm thinking I can ignore the coast clutch output, maybe tie it to +12 through a resistor if that makes the PCM happy. Baumann's controller appears to work with E4OD's as well as 4R70w's doing exactly this. Baumannator TCS Electronic Transmission Wiring Details....
I have a 2007 e-150 ford van with only 38,000 miles on it, with i believe a 4r70w transmission. The problem started yesterday. Going in reverse, it would go, but as soon as you take the foot of the gas, it would stop immediately, plus very difficult until it would start rolling, I think this is called engine breaking. Also, in Park, revving the engine, the trans makes a very strange noise, and wants to creep up (move forward) with more gas you give it. neutral does the same thing. When i drive the van, it seems like it switches gears fine, and does not make any noise, but the OD light does not show when you press the button. I did check the fluid, nice and red/pink color no smell at all. No leaks under the car, and the trans is totally dry all around. I do not show a check engine light on. This morning my friend came over with his scanner and hooked it up to my van's plug. It showed no codes of anything wrong. What might be wrong with the trans? My friend seems to think it might be a solenoid problem, I sort of think it might be a shifting problem, but i am no mechanic.
View 14 RepliesThe problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
I have a 2002 F150 Super crew with a 5.4 and a 4R70W tranny. The issue I am experiencing is when the truck is driven where the tranny has shifted through all it's gears and cruising at say 55 mph, when depressing the accelerator pedal it either downshifts of something unlocks making a shuddering sound which sounds like when you run over rumble strips on the side of the road. The shuddering only happens for maybe a second at the most. If I am on the accelerator pedal when it up shifts or locks back up it makes the shuddering sound again. The harder the unlocking / locking or downshifting / up shifting happens the harder and longer the shuddering is.
This shuddering happens at the very last transmission function which happens in the transmission during it's normal operation. Other tan this issue the tranny shifts and operates excellent.
I have a 1998 expedition 4.6 4x4 check engine light on od light flashing sometimes checked it and got p1747 code i was told epc solenoid or short on trans wiring. I already dropped the trans pan, looking for a step by step easy way to diagnose and find the short or if i need to replace any of the solenoids. I have voltmeter and taste light....
View 3 RepliesHad to change the UVC harness on my 2001 7.3. Truck fell out. Trailered it home and changed the UVC harness on the passenger side. Truck is running great, but now the OD light is flashing. Can't read transmission codes, but was wondering if something from the bad harness could have caused this? Any thoughts?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 ford ranger, it's on it 3 automatic transmission. Each transmission has had the same problem. The OVER DRIVE OFF light starts to flash, and when it shifts from 1st gear into second it shifts really hard, and shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd. When you turn the truck off and start it back up the OVER DRIVE OFF light does not come on. The second transmission lasted almost 30,000 miles. The 3rd transmission only made it 24 miles before the light started to flash. The 2 replacement transmissions have been Ford crate transmissions, installed by a Ford dealer. I have looked around on the Internet and no one has a answer for how to fix it, other then it's time for a new transmission. I think it's a computer issue, but the Ford transmission guy says its not ...
View 6 RepliesFlashing TPMS for 1 minute, then steady = TPMS malfunction. The problem seems to be that the TPMS controller somehow resets itself wrong at some random point and begins looking for 5.5 bar (~88psi) instead of 2.6 bar (~37psi).
Here's the instructions for the fix:
I went into the adaptation I found in the Ross Tech wiki here : [URL] ....
All I did was enter the security access code (01503) then changed the values for each channel to 2.6 which equates to about 38psi. Once all of them were set to 2.6 bar, I saved and exited. Started the car and now I no longer have the TPMS error.
YES, the security code works for the 2010 GTI.
My 2002 mustang with 97k miles just had what has been described to me as a severely overheated transmission. The O/D OFF light was flashing and I noticed some faint smoke and a terrible odor from the burning transmission fluid. I was told by a nearby transmission specialist that it would cost $2500 to rebuild the transmission and put in an external cooling device (which he said was necessary).
View 8 Repliesworking on a 2000 F-150 (5.4L & 4R70W). the truck was towed to me with the complaint it would not go forward.
I found 6 transmission trouble codes set. I cleared the codes and was able to drive the truck for about 30 miles. It shifted perfectly and had all 4 forward gears, codes did not come back. I parked the truck to check the fluid level (it was full) waited about 15 mins and went to move the truck, As soon as I turned the key and started the engine the CEL came on and the OD light started flashing, the transmission would engage in forward gears but would just chatter when you tried to accelerate.
I checked the codes and found P0743, P0750, P0755, P1747 and P1760 set. I tried clearing the codes again several times and come back instantly when the key is turned on.
I doubt all the electrical solenoids in the transmission have failed at the same time. I suspect the internal connector and/or harness maybe faulty. what is the best course of diagnosis on this? where so I start?