Ford Transmission :: Engine Bogging In Reverse - Replace ECU?
Oct 7, 2012
I have a 1993 F150, 302 with E4OD, I've replaced most everything I can think of to address the engine bogging in reverse (TPS, EGR, VSS, replaced the trans filter, tune-up and MLPS). It does not bog every time and seems to do it more when the engine is warm.
I pulled the ECU and opened it up. There was nothing obvious inside that looked burned, damaged, etc. Since it is almost 20 years old and the truck has 197K miles, should I go ahead and replace the ECU as well??
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I've got a 1994 F-150 with the 4.9 straight six. The transmission is the E40D.
In drive, it shifts silky smooth. In reverse, it acts like it's bogging down the engine.
I only recently got the truck. It's had a fluid and filter change, and is full on the stick when hot.
I didn't notice this problem until I replaced the engine thermostat. It was stuck open, so I replaced it with a 195 degree Stant unit.
Should I let the engine control computer re-learn this engine? I've fixed bad vacuum lines, too.
I've heard tales about the electronic transmissions. This one has 145K on it.
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My 1998 Mitsu Montero Sport (2-wheel drive)has an automatic trans with L-2-D options. You can manually start in "Low" and go to "2" and then to "Drive, or just drive in D as usual. It also has an AT button for (auto traction) and a button for overdrive mode. PROBLEM: The car stopped shifting properly in the Drive mode. Intermittently it does not shift down to low, so I have to manually shift to Low and then to 2 or drive, etc. Everything else works fine except occaissionally in the Drive mode. I was told the "Check Engine" error was to replace the Transmission solenoids.
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So last weekend I installed a transgo kit for my 4R100 transmission in my 2000 F250 diesel. I didn't really care about getting a shift kit, but I had problems with delayed shifts and figured the accumulator springs had broken. It turns out that was correct, the 2nd gear spring came out in 8 pieces.
Anyway, the transmission shifts great now, but when I put it in reverse it the engine jumps up 200 rpm and then it bogs down as it engages reverse forcefully. It also does this while selecting 1st from Park.
From what I'm reading it's the TC not unlocking and/or a fluid pressure/volume issue. I've also read the filter might have fallen off, I had a hell of a time keeping it in place. I've checked the the fluid level and everything is good there. My question is when I drop the pan, aside from the filter, what should I look for?
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I'm a new Ford owner and my 2012 F250 is my first diesel. Recently, my truck has been having a problem with the engine loosing power, bogging down, shaking-pinging, every once in a while, like 1-2 times a week. When it happens, I can barely get the truck to do 50 MPH. It sometimes happens when the "cleaning exhaust filter" message is displayed, but also happens when it's not displayed. I recently read on the internet about HPFD failures.
What may be happening to my truck? Could it need Cetane booster? Also, how about scheduled maintenance. The owners manual (diesel supplement) says to do the maintenance once the message center says to change oil soon. The dealers here in AZ are pretty much saying 5 months or 7,500 miles. On my other trucks (which were gas), I would stick to what the owner manuals said because I thought how could they deny a warranty claim if you're sticking to what the manual says.
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Recently I have encountered another issue. Truck started up fine, at first stop light and truck was bogging down, RPMs jumping up and down slightly and sounded like it was going to die. Light turned green, gave it gas, no response. Gas pedal was dead. After restarting the truck I was able to give it some gas until I came to the next stop light and this repeated. Eventually a few moments later I got a check engine light. Drove home this way, seemed to be working fine as long as I was actually driving and not stopped.
All the parameters looked ok except for the battery, that jumped up and down in volts as the engine sounded like it was bogging down then eventually died. New batteries put in approx 2 months ago. The check engine light is showing "P0299 turbo/supercharger underboost". I have attached an image of this check engine light according to my monitor.
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Here is the case. I drive a 150 mile trip once a week, mostly 60-65 mph highway. Well in the last 3 months it started randomly bogging down slightly with the cruise on. I can be going along and its like a strong gust of wind hits the truck from the front. It will make the engine bog then it like releases or frees up and the truck carries on.
I also noted on my edge evo (not programmed just plugged in for the gauges) that it shows the engine load shoot from about 30% cruising to about 80% when it have its issue then on the sort of POP release the load goes back down to the normal range. The entire bog down only lasts about 3-5 seconds and I can power out of it by pressing the gas. It may happen 15 times on the trip may only happen once or twice...very random...
Things I have tried
Replaced plugs and COPS
Replaced FPDM
Cleaned MAF and TB
Replaced Air Filter
Changed Oil
Fuel Filter changed in November
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2000 F150 Lariat, XC, 2WD, 5.4L, 4R70W
I don't know if this all started right after I got back from towing a 3500# lathe + 2000# trailer back from Texas a couple weeks ago or if there might have been some slight symptoms before. I do know that this really got bad a couple days ago and I haven't driven the truck since then.
So, here's what is happening. I noticed a few days before that when I would back out of a parking space, the truck didn't seem to go right into reverse. It was as if it was in neutral, but as I was reaching to jiggle the gearshift lever, it would engage and I could back out just fine. All forward gears, and shifting, have been fine all along, including lockup. I kind of wondered if the shift linkage had somehow moved and was on the edge of being in the right spot, so I was going to have a look at it one evening soon. Then a couple days ago, I went to back out of a parking spot at work and it wouldn't go anywhere.
Just acted like it was in neutral. Put it in drive and it engaged just fine, then back to reverse and nothing for a few moments before it finally engaged. Then, as I was backing up, it acted like you might expect a limited slip that was not slipping to behave. But, that was right before I put it in drive and went home. After I got home, I tried it out some more and found that in reverse, it just wouldn't go anywhere unless the truck rolled a little bit. I don't know if the rolling really had anything to do with it or not, but the driveway is on a slight incline, so it happened, and then the transmission would engage. But, when it did start to back up, even straight, at first it acted like it was under a load, then when it started to move, it bucked really badly. Put it back in drive and all seems fine.
There are no codes set. Trans fluid is full, and doesn't smell or look bad. I've searched for reverse shudder, and other stuff, and there are threads about the TC, about no reverse at all, and a bunch of other stuff, but nothing like this that I found.
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I have a 2004 gli and there r no lights an no codes but when I am driving the car shakes a little almost if the motor was bogging down a little. its nothing to major just a slight back and forth movement. I cant seem to figure out the problem it seems to go away during acceleration. Also one other thing is it seems to do it worse when its warmer!
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I have rebuilt my transmission but it keeps burning up reverse high clutch plates. It has burned up two sets so far. I am thinking that it might be something stuck in the valve body.
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I just purchased a 2013 ES 350, and I love the car!
Whenever I startup the car (engine hot or cold) and put it in drive or reverse,and lightly step on the gas to get the car moving, there is a weird stutter. Sort of like when your driving stick in the same scenario, but you let out the clutch a bit to fast and the engine wants to bog out, but your able to hit the gas just a bit more to keep it from stalling. If this were a manual transmission, I would disregard as we all know that can be a normal characteristic of manual transmission.
This being an automatic, I am worried that something could be off with the tranny or the engine.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Celica automatic transmission with just under 160k miles. It's always been a great car, very reliable and very few problems. A few days ago, it started having trouble starting (engine would turn over and not fire, usually starts after four or so tries) and then will bog down considerably while taking off from a stop until it shifts into second gear. No problem idling, not stalling.
Mechanic changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure, plugs, cam and ignition timing, catalytic converter - all okay. Thinks it might be the distributor but would take a few hundred dollars worth of work to diagnose, plus whatever expense if it is the distributor, and obviously more if it is not. Might it be the distributor?
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I'm having some serious trouble with a 2000 4Runner with the 5FVZFE V-6 with 165,000mi. The engine is bogging down/ sputtering and dying on startup, won't drive over apx. 20-30mph, doesn't seem to want to shift up or down, and won't rev past 3000rpms, stopped or driving. I've been a mechanic for awhile and never seen this issue before. But here's the kicker... I'm in bfe Afghanistan, have almost no access to parts (if I do it takes quite awhile to get them and even the easy stuff is hard to find), no diagnostic comp, and only the tools in my toolbox, air compressor, and solvent tank.
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I am having problems with my Prius. I have a 2011 prius with 145000 miles. I also have issues with the engine shakes initial idle and goes away with check engine light saying 2 & 4 misfire. Also I had a couple off issues where I was at a dead stop and when I accelerate the engine would feel like it Boggs and shakes from 0-20 mph then go away after. From 20-80 mph it's perfectly fine.
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Would it work? I saw this on CL 2000 Ford F250 6 speed manual 2wd transmission. It says it is for 2WD but I don't think that matters because the transfer case is what make it 4WD anyway right?
I don't love automatics. With a manual trans, some new gears and the dully conversion this thing would be like driving a giant sports car. Any computer related problems?
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I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
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Is it suggested for transmission cooler to replace the small stock one? I'm going to get towing stuff soon and just want to make sure I'm not smoking my trans. There's a few I've seen....
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Across Internet is lot of examples of using pump, usually drill pump or vacuum. It seam to me that drill pump would work good for that job. Pump that attach to battery have limited amount of power and vacuum pump is manual. Look like a excellent device for transmission fluid change. Clearly no drain screw at pan. I do not think I'm fan of disconnecting return line and live empty tranny.
For example here : [URL] .....
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 5.4 Triton motor with a Transmission Leak. I have drained the Transmission, replaced the Transmission pan gasket and filter. The auto parts store also had me purchase the Torque Converter bearings/seal along with enough transmission fluid and a bottle of Lukas Transmission fix. Do I really need to replace the bearings/seal if I have everything else already ?
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I am trying to replace the MG2 on my 2002 Prius. I have to lower the Engine to get access to MG2. I have already lowered suspension member (sitting on ground with rack on top of it but still connected on sides), removed the torque rod and moved the inverter enough to get access to the LH engine mounting nut. My plan is to start lowering the engine from LH side to get access to MG2 without removing anything else. Is this going to work or should I remove more things?
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Took my 2003 Honda civic hybrid to a budget tune and lube. They said that I needed my fluid changed, I agreed, they changed it (did not flush it). It has 95k on it. Later that night the car broke down, I took it to honda they're telling me that I need a new transmission, there are pieces of a chain in the fluid that they drained. Supposedly the budget tune and lube used a CVT fluid called "Full throttle" honda is telling me that you cannot use anything but honda fluid and the tune and lube is not taking responsibility. Could this have destroyed the transmission?
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