Ford Transmission :: E4OD Streaming Fluid Now Not Shifting Into Any Gear
Jun 12, 2014
My son was driving my F250 (big mistake) when as he says he noticed it was leaking transmission fluid. As he was driving it he noticed fluid coming out then it just stopped working.(motor was running but transmission would not pull in any gear) We towed the truck home and let it sit for about a week. Now it will start but when I try to shift it into gear it will run through the gears but there is no action. It will not engage into any gears.
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Trying to fix my 97' F-250 5.8, e4od. The e4od won't shift out of first gear half the time. It is fine when I manually select 1 or 2 when the problem happens, no check engine though. The fluid looks great and doesn't have an odor. Here is a video of it failing to shift...
YouTube....
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I have seen a few threads about E4OD's and there valve issues just want to narrow down to a valve issue or if it needs a rebuild. I can shift threw all gears i just have lag going into 3rd. also when putting it in reverse it takes about 5 seconds to finally drop into reverse. This is also accompanied with P0782 2-3 shift malfunction.
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This has been a problem since I got the truck. It's a 1996 F150 5.8 4x4. It's got about 140,800 miles on it; had about 139,000 when I picked it up. Not sure if the trans has been rebuilt or not. I'm the 3rd Owner. It doesn't matter what temperature it is outside or how far my foot is down on the pedal... Just about every 1-2 shift is accompanied by a little kick/jolt. Going slow..(coasting, about 15mph) and it shifts into 2nd, usually the jolt is harder than hell!
Same goes for when I'm going about 25mph and I put the pedal to the floor It downshifts then comes back up to 2nd gear and wow. It jolts, shakes and shudders. Sometimes (rarely) I don't feel anything when it shifts. But it ONLY and always happens 1-2. not 2-1 either. Furthermore, when I go to put my truck into Reverse it kind of slams into it, with a clunk noise. All fluids have been changed recently and I also put "Lucas Oil Transmission Fix" in it and that didn't seem to change anything. What is going on internally?
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I have a 1997 f250hd that shifts into 4th at about 25mph and lugs the motor down, then shift back to 3rd (maybe its 2nd and 3rd). It will keep shifting back and forth until you get up to speed, or if i'm in town i will put it in second.
No codes but the tranny fluid is dirty. I changed the filter the other day but didn't have time to flush it as it was getting dark and the line into the tranny was pretty rusted and starting to strip. Also there was no burnt smell. I'm planning on taking it in to have it flushed this week.
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I bought a '93 F150 4x4 this past Sunday. It has the 5.8 and E4OD. Yesterday when I started it up and drove to the tire shop for some wheel balancing, it shifted VERY hard with each shift, so hard that it concerned me. I know very little about transmissions in general, and this one specifically, aside from it being electronically controlled.
This afternoon, I drove it again and it seemed to be shifting more "normally" without shifting anywhere nearly as hard as it did yesterday. What I should check first? I bought a filter kit and will change the filter/fluid (including torque converter) as soon as I'm able.
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I have a 94 E350 with the 460 and the E4OD trans. that has only 30K on it.
Last weekend I took it on a 250 mile trip (one way) and it ran beautiful until the final steep hill to our vacation house. It started vibrating when it went to down shift and wouldn't pick up any speed, the OD off light was blinking. When I pushed the OD button and it cleared right up. Ran beautiful until I tried to climb that same hill again (same thing happened). It showed the same symptom when I tried to back up a steep driveway during the same trip.
Now it no longer does the vibrating but now has harsh/firm up shifts. Downshifts are smooth though, but shifting into reverse and drive are bit clunky too.
The codes I pulled were KOEO 212 and 668. After I erased the codes the 668 didn't come back. But I did change the MLPS to the new updated one from Ford and its still doing it.
I also found the 40amp mega fuse under the hood was blown too, related? Could a 1/2 qt over filled trans. cause this now too? In NH I added some fluid thinking it was low because I could not get a clear reading on the dipstick but I think the level was up there.
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The trans in my motor home has made a growling or slight grinding metallic noise after it shifts into 3rd gear. It only does it for maybe 3 seconds and it doesn't seem to affect the operation. Only way I can describe it is that it grinds, and shudders then goes away. I have towed my race car all this year and it has not caused any issues at all. I am planning on driving out west next year and would like to figure out what the deal is before I hit the road. Also if a rebuild was in order what improvements can be made during a rebuild?
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I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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My truck was noticeably sluggish when it shifted into overdrive or would refuse to shift into it all together, so I decided to change the filter and fluid in it. After this maintenance task was done, and I test drove it, I noticed the problem was still there. It also seems now that it has trouble shifting in all gears. When I tried to "manually" shift it through all gears, the transmission would hold it in the previous gear, buck, shake and then shift at a higher RPM.
Not only this, but if I floor the pedal, the truck doesn't want to drop to a lower gear to increase RPM. It only bucks and carries on until I let out of the gas. I also noticed that when I rev the engine in park, the engine does not want to go past 4,000 RPM, and I hear a "grinding" noise at about that range. In the past, I could red-line the engine in park/idle no problem. Does the auto trans have the ability to "hold back" the engine or do I have deeper engine problems?
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My tranny slips in drive and od when it is warmed up.It's fine for a few miles when it is cold.Did a quick search and it seems like it might be a bad mlps.
My question is, Will a bad mlps act up all the time or just when it's warmed up? Will a mlps and connector from a 91 tranny work on a 95 tranny? Don't really want to throw money at it if it will need a rebuild.
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Have a 2000 expedition with 84,000 miles. Tranny seems to shift hard from first to second gear. Its been 24,000 miles since my last dealer tranny service. Thinking of getting a new service now before the recommended 30,000 manual recommendation. Whats happening?
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Recently changed the transmission fluid in my 2011 Elantra. Used the fill plug to check fluid. Small steady stream was coming out. Closed it up and took it for a ride. Was shifting very rough. Put more in and it felt better. Was wondering if there is a better way to check the fluid? I've heard that the dealer may have a sensor, is this true?
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My 94 F150 has been actingup lately with the 4r70 transmission not shifting into 3rd gear or above. I replaced the MLPS sensor and re pinned the plug as per the instructions with the switch.The old sensor had the plug on the side, same type of plug, but wires indifferent spots. Truck wouldn't start like that, so repinned to match the instructions. I couldn't get the neutral mark to 100% line up as there is not enough adjustment, but it is very close.
The old plug had
32-298-140-33
57-199-359-463
I switched it to
57-359-199-463
33-140-298-32
Then tried
463-359-199-57
33-140-298-32
Truck still won't shift to 3rd, overdrive off button doesn't light up and itwon't start in neutral. I tested the ground at the connector and it lights up atest light connected to the pos bat cable with no issues.
Back up lights won't work, but flicker as going from R to N, so I suspect that is due to the fact I couldn't get the marks to line up 100%, but i'm not worried about that now.
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I have a 2012 elantra limited about 9 month's old with about 14,000 miles on it.
About a week ago I began noticing a burning smell. I first chalked it up to being 1,000 over the 3k mark for an oil change. However I then started to pay attention when I parked if there was any sign of fluids leaking. At first I didn't notice any or seemed like one or two drips. Well tonight I noticed a larger puddle that was def not water.
The other symptom is that it's been shifting up at higher RPMs. Tonight when I got on the freeway I was trying to speed up to 65 but the rpm gauge had me at over 4,000 rpms with normal acceleration...I was not gunning it. I also could not get the car to go past 60 at first, all the while the rpm increasing still, until I let off the gas then hit it again and seemed to trip it to shift and was able to get to 65.
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I have a 1986 Ford Bronco straight six 300 4 speed manual NP 435
She grinded a bit when shifting from a stand still but nothing terrible for an old rig but leaked oil bad from the rear main seal so I took out the tranny/t case to put in new clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and rear main seal. When I put it all back together shifting into 1st would grind like CRAZY. So would reverse but not near as bad. So I took it all back apart inspected everything even torqued the clutch to specification. Put it back together and same result. So I replaced the slave/master cylinder thinking the clutch wasn't pushing enough bench bled it and still no luck.
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I have a 2005 2.5 vw jetta.
It has 150,000 miles....the cars been working just fine untill DEC of last year. I had the dealer check the transmission fluid and they said it was low....so they flushed and refilled the transmission oil...they didnt see any metal but that didnt fix the problem.....
Now i have the car not shifting correctly ....theres a delay when shifting in all gears but it is intermittent, sometimes it shifts hard and sometimes you can just baby the throttle and it wont shift as hard.....once on the freeway the car runs fine......but when coming to a stop you can feel the downshifting.....
I figured it has something to do with the valve body....my concern is the dealerships have quoted me 2000$ to replace the valve-body....the cars paid for and was wondering if i should just move onto a different jetta or fix this one?
If i fix the valve body will this jetta have the same issue later? Also i do have the vacuum pump leaking engine oil....not much can this be fixed while doing the valve body job???
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I just had a 97 Ford Ranger with a 3 speed overdrive transmission in my garage that we replaced the transmission because it was not shifting down into first gear, not even manually!. The new transmission is doing the exact same thing as the original.
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My 1992 F-250 7.3 4X4 has a very intermittent issue with the E40D. Rarely, usually after a lot of around town driving (I don't know if that has any direct correlation), I will get a rough shift from 1-2. It will kind of bang into gear and make the whole truck shudder.
On one of it's episodes, it also did it in 2-3, however that only happened once and I haven't been able to make it do that again. I'm worried that it's something that I should address, if I can do so without just rebuilding the whole transmission. It doesn't slip and shifts fine most of the time, other than the occasional 1-2 issue.
To cut this short, does this sound like a 1-2 accumulator issue? Maybe just old truck syndrome? I feel like this is a dumb as hell question, but isn't it a bad idea to install a shift kit in an E40D with 126K miles on it?
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My 95 psd recently started shuddering on takeoff... Pretty sure its the torque converter. It has a full ATS tranny with 5 star t/c and all the goodies installed by the previous owner (warranty not transferable). Its only got about 25k on the trans but they have been far from easy miles.
Symptoms: If I hold the brake and keep the truck stopped while holding the throttle its totally smooth, not until the truck starts moving that the shudder begins. It shudders worse the more power i put to it. Does it in first gear and second gear takeoffs. Goes away at about 10 mph or once the speed catches up with the rpm.
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