Ford Transmission :: E4OD Coast Clutch Resistance Check
May 16, 2014
Last weekend my 95 F350 developed an issue where it feels like something in the transmission is dragging in reverse and it moves forward in neutral. This happened suddenly. One minute it was working fine and the next it was acting up. I found some info that leads me to believe that it might be the coast clutch solenoid causing the problem. Today I tested the resistance of the coast clutch solenoid through the PCM connector. I used pin 55 and pin 37 to test it. The resistance is supposed to be between 20 and 30. I got 0. My meter read the same as putting the leads together.
Am I correct in thinking that I need a new solenoid pack or at least a coast clutch solenoid?
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1994 E4OD Transmission.
Transmission was slipping terrible after vehicle warmed up. After feeling around for thoughts, it was suggested by numerous people that the transmission needed an overhaul.
Upon Disassembley the clutches were found to be excellent. They are actually thicker than the new ones in the kit. By .015" actually. Quite impressive considering they are 20 years old.
So now, I have kind of lost direction. If the original clutches are thicker than the new ones, and don't show signs of wear. What does that mean?
The fluid is pretty good, and there aren't fragments of metal. Nor is there any metallic shimmering to the color. It doesn't smell burnt or rotten either.
I have drained the torque converter and filled it with gasoline. I am going to spin it and hopefully knock any sediment loose.
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My tranny slips in drive and od when it is warmed up.It's fine for a few miles when it is cold.Did a quick search and it seems like it might be a bad mlps.
My question is, Will a bad mlps act up all the time or just when it's warmed up? Will a mlps and connector from a 91 tranny work on a 95 tranny? Don't really want to throw money at it if it will need a rebuild.
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I have an 86 f350 with a 4 speed manual transmission, I am trying to figure out how to check transmission oil and rear end, and clutch.
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I just came across a deal on a 93 E350 motorhome for dirt cheap. It has a whine at 50 mph and believe its the rear end. The whine is under throttle not coast.
There is a tag on the axle housing that reads :
4:10 a diamond shape 2US AC
760553
Is this a Dana 60? Looks like a Dana.
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I have a 5-speed transmission pickup (’04 Ford Ranger EDGE SuperCab). Clutch pedal feels "normal", No resistance when shifting gears. Will go into gear with ease, except for 2nd gear (grinding noise), must push clutch to the floor and still grinds; but only 2nd gear. In 1st gear, my truck will slowly creep forward as if unable to engage and not having any kind of pulling power. Even when shifting to 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, it barely maxes out at 30MPH (top speed unless vehicle is on a slope or slight decline then I can get up to and over 40MPH. Checked brake fluid level, it’s ok. The fluid’s at max. Clutch is relatively new (April 2014), with only about 13,000 miles on it, if that. It must be cylinder issue. Is there any way to tell whether it's the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
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I have a co-worker that is having trouble with his 06 passat. He explained that the clutch pedal has no resistance and is on the floor. The dealer he took it to is saying he needs a new clutch and pressure plate claiming that the "pedal doesn't have pressure on it is because the clutch discs won't engage" which sounds backwards if you ask me. Anyway, what could this be? Where could we start tracking this down?
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My 95 psd recently started shuddering on takeoff... Pretty sure its the torque converter. It has a full ATS tranny with 5 star t/c and all the goodies installed by the previous owner (warranty not transferable). Its only got about 25k on the trans but they have been far from easy miles.
Symptoms: If I hold the brake and keep the truck stopped while holding the throttle its totally smooth, not until the truck starts moving that the shudder begins. It shudders worse the more power i put to it. Does it in first gear and second gear takeoffs. Goes away at about 10 mph or once the speed catches up with the rpm.
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I have a 2001 Volkswagen passat glx and last week I jumped in and hit the clutch and it fell straight to the floor with no resistance and i barely touched it.... What this means and if i can fix it myself instead of taking it to the dealership ?
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I have an E350 1992 7.3l Diesel, with E40D. The transmission slips in the 3rd and OD position. Every time, if I want to accelerate it slips for a few seconds and then the drivetrain is correct connected. The shifting into another gear works properly, the transmissions slips by changing from free-wheeling into accelerating ( for example: at speed 90km/h and no changing the gear).
I have recognized that the oil temperature is getting higher now. That may an indication for additional losses in the transmission. What do I have to check?
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I have seen a few threads about E4OD's and there valve issues just want to narrow down to a valve issue or if it needs a rebuild. I can shift threw all gears i just have lag going into 3rd. also when putting it in reverse it takes about 5 seconds to finally drop into reverse. This is also accompanied with P0782 2-3 shift malfunction.
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A while back I picked up a 1994 Bronco with a bad tranny for a flip. I recently picked up a 1993 E4OD that seemed to work well with low miles to throw in it.
I got it in the Bronco but it does not work right. If you put it in drive if feels like it's taking off in 3rd or 4th gear pull the shifter down one notch and it feels like 2nd gear pull it down again into 1st and no change. It bangs into reverse really hard. When up shifting manully it bangs pretty hard. No kick down at all under any circumstance and no converter lockup. I can't tell if it's in OD or third gear when at highway speed. OD button on the shifter has no effect but the light does go on and off.
I'm not an automatic tranny guy at all but it seems like an electrical issue. I was not able to drive the truck with the original tranny other than reverse (no bang) but the PO told me it was fine till it started slipping. I did test drive the donor truck and the new tranny worked correctly in it.
Being new to the process I need more detail and some of the basics. I'm comfortable with electronics and have the test equipment I just don't know the procedure. I'm guessing a bad connection/wire or something not compatible between the 1993 tranny and the 1994 truck.
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1994 E350 Club Wagon 351w, E4OD Transmission. New MLPS, New VSS, New TPS, New Fluid, New Filter, 5 year old Torque Converter.
The Transmission dribbled a little bit from the front pump seal a couple weeks ago, I checked the level, it was a bit low. Topped it off with Lucas, the dribble stopped. I drove it successfully for another week. I took it on a 10 mile trip, and 5 miles in, it started slipping above, 35mph, I let off the accelerator, and the transmission "Caught up" and I drove 35mph the rest of the trip. I let it sit over night.
The next morning it acted as if nothing were wrong. I drove it some more, and the same thing happened. I parked it, and revved the engine up a bit, and it tried to MOVE in park, I put it in neutral and revved the engine, and it lurched as if it were still in 1rst gear.
This time I let it sit for 24 hours, and after work I successfully put 20 miles on it without missing a beat. It was shifting right, good solid connection between the gas pedal and the road, and I thought the problem was fixed, as the temperature the day before was -20, and it warmed up outside to 30 degrees above.
I parked it for a couple hours and went to go do the errands, and it wouldn't make it above 15mph. It even struggled to do that much. I put it in reverse, and it held great, no slipping at all.
Let it sit until the next morning, and it was better. I pulled the Codes, and it gives me a 63(7) TOT High, and a 62(9) Torque Converter Clutch. It may or may not be relative, but Cruise hasn't worked in about 6 months either. What am I missing here? What could possibly causing this trouble? Fluid is up and new.
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My rig is a 1995 F-250 Powerstroke 4x4 with 150k on the clock and an E4OD. It has been well maintained and no major work performed aside from glow plugs recently... That was fun! But that's another story...
The issue: Irregularly and randomly over the last year or so the truck has had a problem going into drive. I'll hop in, put it in Drive and nothing. It's like its in Neutral. It is also the same in 1 and 2. If I put it in Reverse, I can feel it engage and the starts to go in reverse. When it has this drive issue, the only thing that I can do to make it go is to give it some fuel and idle it up. Then it slowly engages and its fine.
Last night it did this... But this time when I could only get it to go by putting it in first and then giving it fuel... It slowly engaged.
Overall its done this maybe five or six times over the last year and doesn't seem to be getting worse. Sometimes it will go for a month with no issue.
This has happened when its warm or cold so I'm not sure heat is an issue. About 10,000 miles ago the transmission was flushed / full service. Oh, and the ATF level is exactly where it should be. My biggest fear is that the transmission needs a rebuild. One local shop quoted me $4200 to rebuild it. What I'm looking for is to know if there is a simpler and cheaper fix. I'm not really interested in a rebuild, unless that is the only option.
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I gotta 93 f150 XL it has a 4.9L and a T18 borg Werner trans. I replaced the clutch,throw out bearing, pressure plate and pilot bearing and after reinstalling trans I am unable to go through my gears.
If truck is off I can shift into some gears sometimes but not without a lot of resistance. Also some gears will let me in easy, then fight me as I try to back into neutral.
Truck starts right up but if I start in neutral I can't shift into any gears and get a lot of grinding when I try to put it in gear.
If I start in gear it drives in the gear but I have to force back into neutral. And then I'm stuck in neutral again.
It is a hydraulic clutch and fluid is full and there are no visible leaks. I am 100% sure clutch disc is facing correct way as I triple checked it while installing.
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Last night I was driving home and decided to show off at a light. I punched it pretty hard, but it wasn't anything outrageous.. anyway, as soon as I shifted to second, my clutch pedal gave out and dropped to the floor without resistance. I coasted it to a gas station, luckily.. When I lifted my foot the pedal rose back slowly. I tried pumping the pedal, didn't work. I looked for leaks, but none were found. I turned it off, put it in first and tried starting it, and it turned over and jumped/jerked forward, a lot like it did right when I shifted into second and it went out. So I'm assuming that its not the entire clutch cause it wouldn't have engaged the engine. It's not a leak. pumping it didn't work so it's can't be a pressure issue.. what is going on? is it my master cylinder, or maybe my slave?
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My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
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Just went to leave my apartment and I get at the first traffic light and put it into neutral. Light turns green and I try to put it into first and it won't let me... In fact I cannot shift into any gear while the car is started. Put the flashers on and I am stumped. There was also more resistance in the clutch pedal as soon as this happened.
I turned the car off and tried wiggling it into any gear. For some reason while the car is off I can put it into any gear. So I had to put the car in first gear and start it and limp it home. I had to rev the engine to about 2,800 - 3,000 RPMS in order to get the car to bite and take off. Shifting into any other gear while driving was a hassle and it felt like there was a lot of resistance.
Just did some quick Vwvortex recon and some people are saying that it is a broken pressure plate? Pressure plate welds itself to the clutch? Or possibly a throwout bearing? Also what Transmission is in a 2003 Passat 1.8T Engine code AWM.
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I just rebuilt my E4OD transmission in my 1996 F250 7.3L it has all new clutch packs torque converter and a shift kit. When I first put itback together it would not shift out of second cleaned mlps and shifts threw all the gears now. I took it out on the road to test it and this thing ran great shifted smooth and quick could not askfor any better but when Trans temp gets around 140-150deg it shifts hard and od light flashes. I have ordered a scanner to read the codes but won’t be in till later this week. What I could check in the meantime.
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I have been hoping this problem would go away but it hasn't. I drive a 1991 350 diesel with Banks turbo and transmission module. When we first bought the truck it was only a few thousand miles before we had to have the tranny rebuilt. It was fine for about a year or two when we installed the Banks turbo and then after about five thousand miles the torque converter flew apart and ruined everything inside the tranny.
After this second rebuild it seems to be doing pretty good all except for it wanting to shift in and out of overdrive for no reason. I can have the cruise set on anywhere from 50-65 and when I start up a VERY slight hill it will downshift to third. I know that this engine has plenty of torque to maintain its speed up these small hills without downshifting so something isn't right. On this last rebuild our mechanic contacted Banks about the trans command and they told him to wrap the exhaust pipe with insulation to keep some of the heat off of the module under there and that seemed to work some.
(It shifts better than at first except for going in and out). Another thing that might be interesting is when it was first rebuilt this last time it had a problem with jerky shifts and the tranny light would come on. Our mechanic had to replace some sort of sensor in the tranny that kept breaking. He did this about three times and since he wrapped the exhaust it hasn't happened again. I hope I made everything clear for everyone to understand.
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having never been into an E4OD, I have a quandary. I have an F-350 with a 460 engine with the E4OD trans. the trans works fine, but wouldn't go into park. I pulled the pan and tail housing and found that the thrust washer behind the park wheel had broken and dropped down to obstruct the pawl from engaging. I have no problem in tearing into a C-6 on back, but the E4OD, I'm not so sure. I had considered just pulling the trans and replacing it with a used one. I can find all kinds of trannies, but NOT the '89 to '91 that I'm told is what is needed because of the electronics. I have been told that the '87 to '97 will work but I have to swap out the electronics? is this so, and how much of a mess is that to do? OR, someone told me that it is possible to use the 4X4 trans by putting on my tail housing? doesn't sound right to me, but what do I know? any pointers????
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