Ford Transmission :: Cruise Control - Shift Or Lock / Unlock Trans On Ever Slight Downhill
Aug 9, 2013
Just picked up an Excursion with the V10 and 4R100 (2001). Drove it in to work to day and while on the freeway cruising on cruise control about 60 it seemed to shift or atleast lock/unlock the trans on ever slight downhill you encounter on a city freeway. Just light humps in the road. Does this seem normal? RPM's would be just shy of 2000 then I'd hit a small decline and would shift to 1600 or so then back up when it leveled out.
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The cruise control on my 2013 works as I expected.
However the cruise control on my 2016 Sonata does not.
When driving at highway speeds (65 to 70 mph) in cruise control and the shifter set on "D" (drive) the transmission will down shift to 4th speed whenever I go down hill.
This might be intentional as a way to keep the car from exceeding the set speed, but I have never heard of this and it would seem to place more wear an tear on the transmissions.
Do the down shifting is engineered in or if it is a service problem that I need to have addressed...
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B1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driving for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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2010 Elantra. The other day I noticed that while driving with cruise control on, on the way home from work, pressing the brake pedal didn't turn the cruise control off. I felt the brake work, but the engine started revving like I was holding down the accelerator so I took my foot off and manually turned the cruise control off with the On/Off button. I didn't think much of it at the time other than it hadn't done that previously. Then, when I got home I couldn't put the car in park. The shifter wouldn't move past Neutral up to the Reverse or Park position. Using the shift-lock release push button I was able to put it in park. I'm not sure if the two issues presented here are related, but they both occurred for the first time on the same day. I was hoping it was a random occurrence and it would be better today, but things haven't changed. The brake and accelerator have continued to work just as before and the car feels no different driving it.
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I drive a 2005 Ford Explorer (automatic) with 84k miles on it. Recently when I was driving on cruise control at 35 mp/h down a hill and applied the breaks to make a turn, the engine completely shut off. The lights came on, the power steering went off, the engine had shut off. I pulled over, turned the key off, turned it back on and it started no problem. I drove it for 3 days without problems (and without using cruise control of course), then I took the car to a shop. They ran diagnostics on it, test drove it, but couldn't find anything wrong with the cruise control or the transmission. I don't think they tested this driving downhill as the shop is not in a hilly area. Tonight, I went down the same road again, 35 mp/h in cruise control, slowed down for the same turn, and the engine shut off again exactly the same way it did before. What this could be?
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I like to drive with cruise control engaged but I find I can't do that in my new (well, 182K 2005 6.0L) Excursion. It's holds speed just fine, but if I top a rise and start going downhill - basically when no effort needed to maintain speed - it starts chugging and shaking the whole truck real bad. It feels and sounds bad, can't be good for it (or so I've assumed in my head). It's a real staccato feeling as if fuel is being applied less than a second, stopped, reapplied. Is this something unique to the diesel (my first diesel), an issue with the cruise control (vacuum, electronic?), or what?
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My 2001 F250 with 5.4 gasser surges when it rolls downhill when using the cruise control. It does not do that when it is going up hill or on flat level highway. Why it does that? This is only when I use cruise control.
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Twice now, while going downhill hill (steep grade on freeway) my Prius has revved up to over 4,000 RPMs with the cruise control set at approximately 65 mph. The noise of the engine was my tipoff and I immediately had to turn the cruise control off. This just doesn't make sense to me! Seems like this could be a potential problem for those of us utilizing cruise control!!!
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra and have noticed that my cruise control doesn't slow me down when I am going downhill, is this normal?
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2012 Prius with 10K miles.
One of the features I really like over the '06 Prius is the ability of the cruise control to hold the set speed on downhills (until the battery fills up and it switches to compression braking "B" mode, but that's a different topic).
After taking it in for the 10K mile service, it no longer engages regenerative braking on downhills with cruise control set. This is on the same hills where previously it would hold speed.
Did Toyota do a software upgrade that disables this feature?
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Curiosity question. I've noticed that on a downhill of a couple miles, especially in "braking" mode or with the cruise control on, the motor/generator and engine are used to keep the speed down and the battery gets charged to the very top quite quickly. That's good!
On a really long downhill, will the motor/generator still be used for braking and the excess electricity discarded to keep from overcharging the battery?
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B1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driveing for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. There has to be a wire harness or ground that I am missing some where that is bad?? The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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I have a 2003 screw 4x2 with the 4.6, 148,000 miles, and I'm not sure what kind of transmission. Recently when the truck would shift into second it would hesitate and I would feel a slight grind, but it only did it when it would shift at 2000 rpm, if it shifted at 2500 rpm it would shift fine. I checked the fluid level, it was full, it smelled okay, looked *fine.
After pulling a boat (19 foot bass boat...nothing too heavy) it started to shake violently when I'd take off from a red light. So I dropped the pan and changed the filter, The fluid was dark red and smelled a little burnt. I put 4qts of fluid in it along with some Lucas transmission fix. The shake during take off is gone, and the grinding while shifting into second got a lot better but didn't go away completely.
However, now the grinding into second has has gotten worse again, and if I make a right turn from a red light it grinds and feels like its slipping until it shifts. I am not sure why making a right turn would affect it but its definitely worse when i turn right, left turns are fine. I'm guessing my transmission is going out and I just need to get it rebuilt...
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1997 F250 HD 7.3L It is a May build so is mainly 1996 parts. Came from the factory with auto transmission but PO did manual swap. Truck had factory cruise control but never worked after the swap. I found clutch safety switch missing so installed that and now it works as far as truck only starting with clutch in and other pins ohm good but it didn't fix the no cruise issue. All the diagrams I can find are wrong so I am stumped.
Horn works and steering wheel brushes appear to be functional.
Brake switch has 12V in and out so I think it is ok.
Brake switch on master cylinder has power in and out so I believe it is ok.
All brake lights work since I read that diagrams don't show it but they are somehow tied into the cruise.
I believe the issue is in the clutch safety switch (CPPS) wiring as I only have power on one wire however my colors don't match my Haynes or online diagrams. Also, no where can I find if this circuit runs on hot 12V or ground. Some wrong diagrams show hot 12V coming in on the light green wire from the brake switch but others show a hard ground on the red/Blu wire.
Most diagrams say I should have red/LtBlu, Red/LtGrn, LtGrn, Gray/Yellow. I actually have Red/Blue, White/Red, Tan/Blue, White/Brn. The White/Brn has power coming into the switch.
The connector for the automatic transmission column shifter is disconnected and the shifter was removed. I read that this needed to be jumpered to the tan/blue wire after a conversion on the CPPS but only on 2002 and up trucks so I don't think this affects me. That plug is for overdrive cancel.
Looking for a good diagram for a manual shift, diesel cruise control circuit that shows my color wires on the CPPS? I have had this truck 2 months and have fixed everything except this and will be making a long trip soon so cruise would be nice to have functional but I am stumped.
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I drive a 2008 Elantra and had a mouse chew the wiring harness from the output speed sensor on the transmission to where the wires diverge from the Engine harness. It was still able to drive but the transmission stayed in third gear, the cruise set light stayed on and the check engine light came on.
I had noticed sluggish shifting before this happened and assumed the speed sensors needed replaced so I purchased the input and output sensors (42620-39200 & 42621-39200) and that is when I noticed the wires missing. I've checked the harness for other potential mouse foolery, took the old connector to the output sensor soldered wires to it and reconnected them to the engine harness. On a test drive after rewiring and replacing the sensors the car still stays in third and the set light is still on however the check engine light is not on anymore. At this point I'm clueless what to do next besides drive it to a dealer.
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2002 F250 SD 5.4 V8 here....cruise control doesn't work!!
-I've checked fuses 27 and 34. Good.
-I've done the self test. All lights flash with no codes given.
-I've replaced the pressure switch at the end of the brake manifold. All good.
-Horn works.
-No ABS lights or check engine lights on.
When I press the ON then SET...the guage illuminates on the dash and there's a slight 'thump' from what seems to be the area of the cruise control box under the hood (I'm driving so I'm assuming it's it).
Am I missing something here?? Can it be anything other than the box itself?
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248K miles. At hwy speeds, acceleration is great. But when "gas" is slightly relaxed without moving foot (e.g. downhill or level not acceleration) experience slight hesitation. Happens in and out of cruise control. What might cause this? Fuel pump?
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Just started two days ago... My '01 Rodeo stutters and then the Check Trans and Cruise Control Lights come on and go out about 10 seconds later.
It seems like it only happens when at lower speeds between 10-30 Mph and when first starting out on a drive.
Vehicle Info : 2001 Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L Automatic 2WD with 108k Miles
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A friends son just bought a 94 powerstroke. auto trans. it will not shift out of first unless you let off throttle. but once in second it shifts fine, until you stop and go back to first. I am thinking bad or sticking second gear solenoid, but do not want to give bad info.
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Is there an easy way to do this...???
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This is an Auto/4z4/4.6 V-8. It's Skidding or a Clutch is not holding at times when shifting up or down while on Cruise and slight hills.
someone suggested changing oil and filter about two years ago. I did that and it didn't change a thing. $145 that time.
I'd like to know if its the clutch in the torque converter, or the Transmission? If I have to change something out, should I get both?
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