Ford Transmission :: Connecting Can Of Transmission Flush To Cooler Lines?
Jul 7, 2015
I bought an aerosol can of transmission flush to flush out the cooler lines in my Ranger before I put the "new" transmission in.
Well, the can says it has a 5/16" female fitting on the tube "to fit most common transmission cooler lines" but my truck has what I believe are 5/8" fittings (the tube nuts on the cooler lines were a 5/8" hex). The fitting on the can tube ALMOST threads over the flared end of the tube, but not quite (I just want it on there so stuff won't spray all over).
Went to the parts store, found an 5/8" female flare to 1/2" male flare and that was the closest I could find. I'll take it home tonight and see if it fits. They had almost nothing for a 5/16" flare.
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06 6.0 How do I remove the trans cooler lines from under the truck? I've got the lines hanging free they're unscrewed from the transmission and trans filter but I can't seem to snake them out to replace them. How is this accomplished?
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Can I change these out to hydraulic hoses with clamps that are rated for the fluid. Mine are rusted and starting to leak.
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I have a transmission cooler attached to my transmission. The lines that connect it are leaking around the crimp fittings. I figured if i just cut the fittings off and used 3/8 fuel line, would i be ok. I am afraid that i might get some air into the lines and mess my transmission up...
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Looking for any good videos of flushing the transmission out of an 1997 F150. I'm having a hard time locating the input and output lines to the radiator. I don't know which it is top or bottom one...
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i have a 2010 Prius IV with 56810 miles, should i do a transmission flush ? and how many qt go back into the unit ?
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My 2006 has 108,000 miles. An independent shop said one can not flush the transmission as you can not put torque on the wheels. A dealer says they have a machine to do it. Who is right? Can one flush and fill the transmission?
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Truck has never been flushed. Would you try and back flush through oil cooler or just do a regular flush according to the procedure in the tech folder?
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I just had my oil cooler and EGR cooler replaced, and I'm now consider doing a coolant flush with Restore/Restore+ to ensure the coolant system is clean. I know this might be backwards and perhaps should have done the flush first, but schedule and such did not allow. I do have a coolant filter.
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Bought the Camry new in May 2006. Besides the oil hose leak (which a recall fixed), it's been a perfect car.
Fast forward to the present. I needed a brake job, so my master mechanic buddy installed front and rear powerslot rotors and akebono performance pads and flushed my brake fluid. No problems with the brakes.
A few weeks later I wanted to treat my car to a 90K full transmission flush (it's first transmission service). I had it flushed at a local toyota independent shop. They used WS fluid. A few hours later, my transmission which shifted perfectly fine before the flush started shifting weird. I thought the computer had to relearn my wife's driving style. When she brakes hard (if she's going 50 and the light turns yellow and she brakes hard, her car slows down normal, but right before it comes to a complete stop is when the car shakes. She said it started right after the transmission flush.
A few days later when she was at a red light, the car check engine lit up with a check battery (she thinks that's what it said on the screen). When the light turned green, it wouldn't accelerate, but it would roll forward when you let go of the brakes. When she got to a safe place to park/stop she turned off the car. A few minutes later she turned the car back on and it was fine.
I told that to one of my buddies who had something similar happen to him in his 06 Mustang GT, the Ford dealer cleaned his throttle bottle and maf sensor and he was on his way. I had my throttle body and maf cleaned. Now with new brakes, new brake fluid, a flushed transmission, a clean throttle body and maf, I thought everything was good.
On the freeway , the car would not shift to 4th gear or higher. So I exited the freeway, drove the surface streets to a independent Toyota shop. Left the car there all day, they could not find anything wrong. So, right now everything is back to normal except the shaking when you are almost at a complete stop, which started AFTER the transmission flush, what that might be?
To describe the shaking problem, imagine I'm driving 45-50, light turns yellow, I slow down, 50-20 is fine, maybe even 50-15 is fine, but the car shakes right before it fully stops.
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OK, replacing the radiator in my 07 Mountaineer. Watched the U-tube video and purchased the sprecta model recommended. Instead to messing with the release on the lines I opted to remove the nut from the radiator. Easy enough, everything going well until I find that the new fittings on the Spectra are a different size. Now I have to remove the lines from the old connect. Bought the Lisle 39660 tool for Ford lines. I've been fighting with them most of the afternoon. I cannot get them off, tool slides in all the way, won't budge. How to get them off, I don't give up easy....but, all my knuckles are banged up.
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So I rebuilt my transmission earlier this year and its been working great, but I've yet to install a better cooler on it. I do quite a bit of towing with it, most of which is my boat. I've searched a lot on the forum here but cant decide on how to set up a better trans cooler.
I want a cooler that's going to handle cooling my trans on steep hills and such, but I don't want to completely cover my a/c condenser (I really like cold a/c ).
I've considered adding a couple of the frame mount coolers in-line and keep the factory cooler, I'm just not sure how well it would work.
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I have a 2002 Kia Rio Cinco, (named Simple Jack) with about 150k miles on it, that I have been bringing back from the dead. I've replaced the shocks and struts, brakes, wheel hubs, wheel bearings, part of the brake line, the timing belt, motor mounts, fan, valve cover gasket (needs to be redone because my mechanic got sloppy), spark plugs & wires, windshield and wipers, and the radio. I sound proofed the interior, pulled the seats and carpet out and power washed them. I am also doing some body work on it. Normally, I am pretty good at troubleshooting the problems, but not-so-much doing the actual repairs. I tend to panic, and get paralyzed by the fear that I will break my car worse than it is.
The first was about doing a transmission fluid flush. I got the filter and the transmission fluid and while my ex-mechanic was breaking my car the last time, I asked if he could do the flush. He said he would not do it because the transmission was too old and it would break the transmission if he did it. Since the fluid looked dirty and probably had not been changed for a while, his logic was that the parts had a layer of dirt on them that would be flushed away with the fluid change. This would interfere in the operation of the transmission because the parts would no longer be able to make contact with each other.
At the time, this made sense to me. However, after some less than stellar repair attempts, I have some doubts as to the validity of his claim. So I am asking you all if this makes sense.
The second question is a problem with rattling. I had purchased the tie rod ends, front stabilizer and bushings for the suspension. I asked my mechanic to change all the parts when he did the front shocks and again I asked when he did the front wheel hubs. He said that I didn't need the crap. So my car has a weird rattling when I drive. It sounds like it comes from the top of the engine, but at speeds around 60mph, I have some vibration in the steering, too. I am concerned that something may be wrong with the steering or maybe it's just the alignment. However, I think the rattling may be independent from the vibration. I have not been able to determine the cause of this and my plan was to just keep replacing parts until it is fixed. I figured I will have a new car by the time I am done. What I can check next? Should I do the tie rod ends? The bushings? The CV joints? I know I need a new mechanic.
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I am adding an auxiliary trans fluid cooler to my C-6 in my F-250. Should the fluid route thru the aux cooler first then the stock rad cooler, or thru radiator cooler to aux cooler? Which stock hard line is fluid FROM the C-6 (HOT), and which is the return line (cold)?
Vehicle is 78 F-250 4x4 crewcab, 400/C-6
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I have a 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac v-6. This truck has been the bane of my existence since I bought it back in September, but I finally fixed all of the issues I was having and it's been great. But, today I discovered that during the most recent work, the transmission cooler line ( Ford part # 7L2Z7890A) was left unsecured against the tensioner pulley. Needless to say, today a hole appeared that gushed tranny fluid everywhere.
I have two questions please- First, need to find the hose diameter so I can do a quick fix insert long enough to drive 1 hr. home? Second, I read online that there is a fluid fill point on the passenger side of the transmission case, is this correct and do I need to be aware of anything else to add enough fluid to safely drive the 80 miles home?
I haven't lost enough fluid that my driving is becoming sluggish and hesitant, but I can tell it is very low.
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My 97 AWD Aerostar bumps in and out of gear on very hot days. I've had the transmission fluid and filter changed. That repair worked, but it still shifts hard when very hot. I tow a boat. I always push the shifter button in to deactivate the OD when towing. I talked to friends who recommended an auxiliary transmission cooler. I looked on the van where one might be installed. I have a factory transmission cooler (oem factory installed).
The cooler is in front of the radiator. I don't see any room to add an additional cooler. The van has 145,000 miles. The van runs and shifts fine most of the time. The problem has happened only on very hot days. What I can do to prevent transmission problems. I've read that the AWD 1997s use a five speed transmission. 1997 was the first and last year the five speed automatic was installed in the AWD Aerostar.
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My girl has a 2008 Escape 3.0L FWD auto trans. Is it possible to install a transmission cooler? She wants to pull a small trailer/camper.
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I have a 02 f350 4x4 6 SPD one of my transmission lines has went bad is there anywhere that sales them.
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I have a 2001 E350 van with the 4R100 Transmission. It had a severe and sudden leak develop in the trans cooler. The driver noted trouble getting the vehicle into gear, into reverse, but ultimately drove it about 25 miles until it stopped unable to go up a hill. Once stopped, the leaking fluid was obvious from smoke & fluid over the back of the vehicle.
It was towed to a local shop (not a transmission shop). They put 9 quarts of fluid in and started the engine hoping to see the transmission functional but only leaking from the cooler. Instead they found it not operational and no fluid coming from the leak. They assume the pump is ruined to the point of not pumping fluid at all.
Is it likely that the front pump is the only damage? Can I pull the unit swap the pump & put it back in service? What else (if more damage is likely) would a transmission repair shop find? What about a used transmission?
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Transmission oil cooler line, lower one, is leaking. I think to use pvf, black ones, brake line instead of new transmission oil cooler line. I did replaced upper one with new transmission oil cooler line before a few years and it is rusty already as those line are only zinc plated as opposed to plastified brake lines.
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Is it suggested for transmission cooler to replace the small stock one? I'm going to get towing stuff soon and just want to make sure I'm not smoking my trans. There's a few I've seen....
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