Ford Transmission :: Clunks When Going Into Reverse Or Drive But Only When Warm
May 1, 2014
I have a stock 1986 Bronco with a 351w/C6 and towing package. Recently it has started doing some things differently. It clunks when going into reverse or drive, but only when warm. It makes a weird clicking noise at low speeds. There is a severe vibration at around 60 mph when under power, but it goes away when I let off the throttle
This started in the last 500 miles or so of a 3000 miles move across the country. How do I go about diagnosing what exactly is wrong with this? I'm not having much luck with finding others who have had these same symptoms.
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We brought our 09 SEL 4motion in for service (10K) and i had them look into a clunk when moving from Park to Reverse, it doesn't happen all the time and seems more common in the morning. It almost feels to me that the transmission is trying to engage too fast, like I'm hitting the gas and putting it into reverse. Anyway is this something that has popped up?
Also, they drove the car 40 miles for a 10k service which all I asked was about the terrible Sirius sound quality and that it "links" way too much. XM never seemed to do this in rentals I've had, nor sounded as bad (like a crappy internet MP3).
So I called and their answer is sort of acceptable that they feel they don't drive the cars enough to get the problem to occur, which in the times I've had problems with other car that required driving they didn't, but 40 miles to check the radio? And since it wasn't driven nicely the wife and I noticed the gas was very low.
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91 F-150 4x4 with AOD. OD,D,1st gear. The truck will idle fine, but when I put it into gear it seems like it is locked in in either drive or reverse. Its hard to stop at lights or stop signs and boggs the engine down and has no low end power. When in neutral it is fine. I have replaced the torque converter with a new one, no change. I replaced the valve body with a constant pressure body as well and still no change. Is there anything else that could keep the thing locked up? The smaller inside overdrive shaft looked good and slid in and out easily. Is there any kind of solenoid in the AOD that would cause this or if vacuum has any role in this problem...
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My truck does not go into reverse but thinks all positions of shifter are drive. I had some slippage and changed the filter and oil great for awhile then blame no reverse just forward I was told my torque converter was out I just don't know....
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I have an 08' 4x4 with the 5.4. When i back out of a parking spot for example the rear end "Clunks" when i but it in drive and give it gas to move. Also does the same when your driving fwd, put it in reverse and try to back up. I had a 98' 4x4 ranger that had the same noise under same circumstances and it was recalled and repaired.
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I have a 94 E350 with the 460 and the E4OD trans. that has only 30K on it.
Last weekend I took it on a 250 mile trip (one way) and it ran beautiful until the final steep hill to our vacation house. It started vibrating when it went to down shift and wouldn't pick up any speed, the OD off light was blinking. When I pushed the OD button and it cleared right up. Ran beautiful until I tried to climb that same hill again (same thing happened). It showed the same symptom when I tried to back up a steep driveway during the same trip.
Now it no longer does the vibrating but now has harsh/firm up shifts. Downshifts are smooth though, but shifting into reverse and drive are bit clunky too.
The codes I pulled were KOEO 212 and 668. After I erased the codes the 668 didn't come back. But I did change the MLPS to the new updated one from Ford and its still doing it.
I also found the 40amp mega fuse under the hood was blown too, related? Could a 1/2 qt over filled trans. cause this now too? In NH I added some fluid thinking it was low because I could not get a clear reading on the dipstick but I think the level was up there.
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I been working on this unit and I running into this
no foward
no reverse
no foward in and gear at all
I have to check pump pressure
I'm changing fluid and filter
1994 F53 460 CID will not move in drive or reverse - iRV2 Forums
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Just finished putting a fresh 460 backed by a (1977) c6 in my '68 ranger and now I'm having (what I believe is) transmission problems. The truck will idle and rev properly in gear but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse the RPM's drop and it dies. I jacked the back end up and put it in both drive and reverse and the tire's spin, but if I try and apply the brake to stop them the truck will die. My suspicion is that the torque converter is locked up all the time. I have managed to get it in gear and give it gas and it'll drive and shift fine, until I come to a stop. My question, what would cause the converter to do this? It's the same transmission and converter that I pulled out a month ago and I never had any issues before...
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So here in Wisconsin for the last two weeks we have had nothing but ice. That being said, I have a '96 ranger 3.0L, automatic transmission, 4x4. 4 wheel is inoperable at the moment, that's a different story. Here's my question: with the ice, there has been a lot of tire spinning at high RPM's, the other day, I was again stuck on the ice and rocked back and forth had some pushers, thought we were getting somewhere but I went to shift gears and all of a sudden had nothing. No Reverse, Drive, OD, L, 2. Did I blow my tranny? There was no noise or grinding, but the OD light seems to blink. Is there something I can check or look at?
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I have a new issue that started last Friday. When I put the truck in gear and let it begin to pull itself, drive or reverse, it has a strange jerking or slipping deal. It doesn't happen every time but when it does you can feel it in the drivetrain. I took it to the shop that did the motor work and they ran a diagnosis(while I watched) on the motor and its turns up nothing. It runs perfect, shifts like it always has, but just has this jerking/slipping thing when I let off the brake and it starts to pull itself.
If I go from brake to throttle its fine. I had the rearend diff worked on to fix the leaky ring and pinion seal and the differential cover sealed at the dealer last month. I searched and don't see anything like what I am experiencing. Could my tranny be giving it up now? It has never been overworked and never overheated. I had the full fluid service done at about 70k and now it has about 130k on it.
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I was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
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I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
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Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty that blew a front seal on the transmission two weeks ago. I sent it to a shop and they replaced the seal, and torque converter. However when they put it back in it will not engage in drive or reverse. After working on it several days we replaced the transmission with another one from a service company. This replacement came with a 90 day warranty. However once it was installed it does the same thing and will not engage in drive, or reverse. I am not sure what is going on but with two doing the same thing it makes me thing maybe electrical or something else.
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I have a 2004 Camry 4cyl with and Automatic Transmission. 193,xxx miles. I bought the car with 165,xxx miles. From time to time the transmission would take a little longer than normal to shift from 1-2 or 2-3. It has also had an issue with locking up the torque converter at speeds around 50 MPH which seems to bog the engine some. An adjustment of the foot on the gas pedal fixed both of these problems. (I just let up a little or pressed a little harder)
Well on friday it did something weird. It now clunks very hard when shifting into reverse. Also when in drive it seems to be in 3rd gear. The engine revs very high before the car starts moving but then it seems to run fine once moving and up to road speed.
I have heard that the Transmission may be controlled by its own Computer unit. Is that true? How do I get codes from it?
I have run my scan tool through the OBDII port and get no codes at all.
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I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
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My future mother-in-law has a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. Last night night when she tried to put it in gear, the car would not go in reverse or drive. She recently had a tune-up on her car a month ago and everything seemed to be working fine. I think the transmission is dead. Does that sound right?
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I have a 2015 Lexus rx 350 it is not all wheel drive. When I put the transmission in drive or reverse I have what I would call a double engagement. It feels like it is going into gear twice. It does not slip it shifts smooth.
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2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
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I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
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