Ford Transmission :: Clicking When Shift To Drive And Moving
Jan 26, 2013
Initially thought I had a clicking valve but the clicking occurs only when I shift to drive and take off. Now I think it may be related to the transmission. Clicking goes away after truck warms up. Checked the spark plugs and all were light brown no black oil.
Generally speaking, is there anything in the trans that would be able to click when the truck is moving? This sound has been around now for about 6 months so I'm stumped. Also checked the ujoints etc....can't find anything wrong.
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I am using my son's truck this week, 2012 F250, 120,000 miles or so. I left it running in the drive while I got something from inside the house. Guess it was idling approximately 10 minutes. When I put it in reverse the transmission would not shift and the truck didn't move. I killed it, re-cranked it and it went in reverse.
As I was driving down the road the transmission would change gears up and down for no reason. I stopped the truck, and put it in park. I would put it in drive and the transmission sounded like it wanted to slip. I put it back in park and the transmission would not engage. I then killed the truck, re-cranked it, and it drove fine for awhile and started doing it again,
I kill the truck, re-crank it, and we go down the road.
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 2.3 lt engine and a 5R44E Transmission. Has 120,oookms (75,000 miles) I have an issue.
Here is what was happening: Would not shift into Drive...took a long time to do so.... and had a 2 to 3 gear flare.
Here is what I did: Replaced the valve body gaskets. Improved a lot. The 2 to 3 shift flare has gone. The delayed shift into D is mostly gone BUT still takes 15 to 20 seconds to shift into D. Once in gear no problems shifting. Does not slip and NO OD light flashing.
What do I need to do to fix the delayed shift issue.
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I have a 93 f250 4x4 with a 5.8 liter with 69 thousand miles.. the problem I'm having Is if I put It in drive it won't shift out of first but if I manually shift it from 1st to 2nd to drive it works but shifts very hard. Sometimes it will shift in drive but It shifts really hard. I don't know what It could be. We just put the transmisson back into the truck due to having to change a broken flywheel. It just don't Seem like it has any power...
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Just made it back from out of state hunting trip,driving to get new tires. And heard a bump sound , Driving about 40 mph and tack jumped from around 1800 rpm to 4500. Engine' smooth and parameters good . However will drive in low and 2 nd gear approximate 25 mph. When select drive will not shift into high without slipping an rapid rpm increase. Currently 135k service record's and general appearance were well maintained....
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'02 Taurus SES, 3.0L Vulcan, AX4N, 140K miles.
The car drove normally the other day, but now the transmission won't shift into drive. Actually, I've been able to get it to shift to drive by easing back on the accelerator, but it will shift back to the next lower gear as soon as you attempt to get back on the gas.
I dropped the pan today to check for metal fragments and found nothing out of the ordinary, just the normal graphite-like sludge around the magnet, maybe about 1/16" or so thick. This leads me to believe that the transmission has not (as of yet) begun to consume itself.
The OBD II is throwing a code of 0750, which is SHIFT SOLENOID A MALFUNCTION. Don't want to deceive myself in thinking this is something simple, but could this fix be as straightforward as going in and replacing the shift solenoid?
I did a little investigating (not sure if I came up with the correct info, though) and found some info regarding testing the solenoid coil resistance. Disconnected the trans harness and took some continuity readings between the pins. Here's what I was able to obtain.
PIN 2 to PIN 1 3.6ohms
PIN 2 to PIN 6 15.6ohms
PIN 2 to PIN 8 16.6ohms
If my test method is correct, these readings are showing that the coil associated with PIN 1 is weak.
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My 1999 Saturn SC2 won't shift in drive. If I put in 3 it shifts and when I get going faster I can put in D. Once it gets warm it shifts in D. What causes this and how to fix it?
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When I shift the car to drive it revs up to 3 or 4 rpms but only goes about 10 to 15 mph. It doesn't produce power like it should.
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I have the mods listed below in my signature. When I shift gear and have almost completely released the clutch to move up into the next gear I get a clicking noise and feel from my transmission I think or maybe differential. This is with traction control off and is only noticeable at lower rpms like a low rpm shift from 1st into second.
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While in drive, transmission does not shift into the first gear (once in motion transmission shifts between 2-5 without any issues), but all 1-5 gears available while in Tiptronic mode. The check engine light is not on. Is it a transmission problem or a control/wiring issue?
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1991 Honda Auto trans, 247k miles. We now have the third transmission in the car and it still does not shift into over-drive-4th. Odds seem poor that all 3 were actually bad.What now?
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I always thought the clicking sound I was hearing in the morning was coming from the engine. Then I realized the sound doesn't start until the car is in gear, either reverse or drive. After a few minutes it will go away but until it does, it is a noticeable sound. I still have a warranty. I am wondering what this could be.
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When backing up in reverse I come to a stop and shift into drive. About 60% of the time it slams into gear (Drive). It feels as if someone rearended me. It's a 2012 Chrysler Town and Country with 40K miles. 2 dealers worked on it, reprogramed the computer and replaced 2 seloniods and the problem is still there. What is wrong but said thats typical on that 6 speed. What to do next?
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I have had a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter 4 cyl Automatic for about 5 or 6 years now. I have noticed the whole time I have owned it that when I start the car and shift from Park to Drive I hear a clunk and the with the hood open the engine pivots back and forth one time more than it is supposed to. This only happens from park to drive, it does not do this from park to any other gears, and once the car is in drive everything is normal. The car has no shifting problems at all, no slips or clunking while driving or hitting the gas real fast on take off.
I changed the all three mounts on the car yesterday. Upper engine mount (still in decent shape), lower dogbone (tore to hell), and Transmission mount (decent). I really haven't noticed it get any worse over the years I just know its not right. I have never changed the fluid or the filter since I owned the car, and most likely it has never been changed in the cars life. Could a dirty filter, and dirty fluid cause this problem? Or could the linkage need adjusted or replaced?
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Ok so my transmission feels loose, too much play between the coast and drive side of the gears. Makes enough noise now that my wife complained about it so I'm looking into taking it to the dealer. I pretty much expect them to pass this off and do nothing, but its getting worse especially in the last couple of months.
Noticed a lot of play in there gearbox? Can you hear the gears make noise as they shift from coast to drive side?
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I've had my truck start making a nice CLUNK from the vicinity of the rear axle when starting moving from a standstill. (and it's a pretty decent thunk sometimes, you hear it AND feel it). I called and made an appt to bring it in and have it checked out (also having the first oil change done and gonna see if they can figure out why the automatic headlights are almost always on even on a bright sunny day) ...
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I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
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I recently purchased as used 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 with 77K miles. I am having an issue with the shift on the fly, I had a vacuum leak that was causing the auto hubs to make noise on occasion but it has never allowed me to shift from 2wd to 4H while moving. I have replaced the IWE solenoid and repaired the vacuum leak but it still will not engage while moving. The light for 4H comes on but the hubs will not engage. The dealer where I purchased the vehicle is not a ford dealership and whey have been trying to solve the problem but to no avail.
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This is on my 7.3PSD. I've observed that the 1-2 gear shift drops about 1,000 RPMs and takes a good half second or longer to do so when given a lot of accelerator pedal input. And then the 2-3 shift is a very quick and harsh shift.
If I am accelerating gently the 2-3 shift is as unnoticeable as the 1-2 shift is quick. Is the slow 1-2 shift causing the trans to protect itself and affecting the 2-3 shift? And if so, what do I do to resolve all of this? I changed the trans fluid a week ago and there is no change.
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L with 190,000 miles. My wife was driving it and the vehicle stopped moving. Sounds like the torque converter whining and will not drive in any gear or 4wd.
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I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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