I have rebuilt my transmission but it keeps burning up reverse high clutch plates. It has burned up two sets so far. I am thinking that it might be something stuck in the valve body.
View 4 Replies79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
2000 f150 182000 makes a rumbling noise from rear end mainly when turning at slow speeds. Thought it might of been axle bearings so replaced them this weekend to no avail. I have the 9.75 limited slip rear end but what I found out this weekend is that the axle bearings are for 8.8 , the 9.75 bearings was to big.
So does this mean I have 9.75 ring gear with 8.8 axles ? I have been using royal purple 75-140 with no friction modifier because royal purple says its it there.
But after doing some research Im going to go get some friction modifier and see if it works . So my question is how much of a pain is it to replace the clutch packs? What if I wanted to just put a different differential in and do away with limited slip ? Or go with a different aftermarket limited slip diff. ? what are my options , etc.
2000 F150 Lariat, XC, 2WD, 5.4L, 4R70W
I don't know if this all started right after I got back from towing a 3500# lathe + 2000# trailer back from Texas a couple weeks ago or if there might have been some slight symptoms before. I do know that this really got bad a couple days ago and I haven't driven the truck since then.
So, here's what is happening. I noticed a few days before that when I would back out of a parking space, the truck didn't seem to go right into reverse. It was as if it was in neutral, but as I was reaching to jiggle the gearshift lever, it would engage and I could back out just fine. All forward gears, and shifting, have been fine all along, including lockup. I kind of wondered if the shift linkage had somehow moved and was on the edge of being in the right spot, so I was going to have a look at it one evening soon. Then a couple days ago, I went to back out of a parking spot at work and it wouldn't go anywhere.
Just acted like it was in neutral. Put it in drive and it engaged just fine, then back to reverse and nothing for a few moments before it finally engaged. Then, as I was backing up, it acted like you might expect a limited slip that was not slipping to behave. But, that was right before I put it in drive and went home. After I got home, I tried it out some more and found that in reverse, it just wouldn't go anywhere unless the truck rolled a little bit. I don't know if the rolling really had anything to do with it or not, but the driveway is on a slight incline, so it happened, and then the transmission would engage. But, when it did start to back up, even straight, at first it acted like it was under a load, then when it started to move, it bucked really badly. Put it back in drive and all seems fine.
There are no codes set. Trans fluid is full, and doesn't smell or look bad. I've searched for reverse shudder, and other stuff, and there are threads about the TC, about no reverse at all, and a bunch of other stuff, but nothing like this that I found.
After driving, i smelled something horrible burning. When I get home, I get on my creeper and roll under to look for anything suspicious, and I find this. It is not where the drain plug in the pan is, it's in front of that. I checked the temp when I was driving but it never got high. I really need my transmission to not explode on me right now, I have a lot of driving to do.
Here's a gallery where there are some pictures....
Photo Album - Imgur....
I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
View 6 RepliesI can smell transmission oil burning through my engine. Is it because my modulator is faulty, or do I even have one? Do I have a solenoid instead? How do I get to the part, whichever one it may be?
View 3 Replies2000 ranger, 4.0L 5spd 4x4
Recently my buddy's 2000 ranger's clutch stopped working, it wouldnt disengage. I checked the reservoir and it was empty, checked below and between the bellhousing and engine was soaked. I filled the reservoir up and attempted to bleed the system with my vacuum bleeder and it barely got any fluid out. Ordered a new slave cyl and just put it in today. You could see how wet the old one was when I took it out.
So today when I finished installing everything, I filled the reservoir and bled the system, lots of fluid coming through, everything seemed good, however the clutch still feels extremely light, and won't disengage. I looked at it through the inspection cover and there is maybe a 1/4" of movement total. I don't get why this thing is not working! How can you tell is the clutch master cylinder is bad?
1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L 5 speed transmission. I am a little confused I can not get the transmission to engage the clutch, I replaced the clutch 3 weeks ago, now I have no pressure in the pedal, I have bleed the system 5 attempts with clean solid flow of fluid. What else can I do to fix this or trouble shoot from here?
View 6 RepliesI've got the clutch pack rebuild kit for this diff and I'm trying to figure out how to do this without all the special tools. I found this post from a guy who did the job:
Sterling 10.25 Trac lock rebuild
This is a great post, but I can't figure out what he's doing with this "all thread" (is this just threaded rod??) to get the spider gears back in. How does this compress the spring plate in the clutch pack? I don't get it.
Just installed new clutch and everything good except pedal doesnt comecall way up now have pull up with foot, ans grabs rt off the floor, i assume just need to adjust? Make adjust rod longer?
View 10 RepliesI have an 86 f350 with a 4 speed manual transmission, I am trying to figure out how to check transmission oil and rear end, and clutch.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford F150 4x4. I only have reverse gear, when you put into drive you have to rev up truck and then it will kick into gear & as long as you keep a little pressure on throttle it will stay in gear & shift fine if you let up on throttle it seems to go back into neutral & you have to start the the process all over. What is my problem? I have changed fluid & filter.
View 2 RepliesI ran into an issue on my rebuild. I have a 1978 F-150 Ranger 302 V8 2WD Automatic. (Just to makes things easier) back to the point. I had the reverse go out completely on the tranny, and have not had any luck what so ever finding another I could buy.
View 5 RepliesI have 2001 E350 Van. One quirk.... When I put the van in Reverse, the engine drops to very low RPM and nearly stalls. This does not happen in Drive.
Transmission is out for repair now for other reasons (for a damaged pump). What can cause this near stalling? What do I look for as far as cause & repair?
I rebuilt my 4r100 myself. 1st time I re-installed it, I had no 2nd gear. All other gears worked fine. Drove it less than 2 miles.. slowly..
Took it back out, found i built the Intermediate Clutch wrong. Fixed. At the same time, found a stuck valve in the accumulator VB, Fixed that, at least i think I did. all the valves snapped back under spring pressure.
Put the trans back in, Drove forward, all forward gears work. Drove 10 miles normally, w/ some time spent in all speed ranges. Temps good, outside temp was 73F
M1 = i get good engagement and engine braking
M2 = I get 1st and 2nd, seems normal
OD = Normal shifts, 4th is a little soft, but always was.. TCC lockup good
OD (Cancelled) = Normal 1-2-3, with lockup in 3rd Worked the button multiple times, shifts down, and back up normally.
N = No movement, no creeping.. Normal.. as far as I can tell.
R = No reverse, or is binding in reverse, not sure. worse when up to temp.
P = Normal, no learching or creeping.. No stalling.
The OD light never blinked, so I don't think it is electronic..
Since M1 works and holds with engine braking. L/R clutch and seals are ok. Forward clutch is ok since i have ALL forward gears, No slipping that I can tell. no creeping in Neutral, so the clutches are not fried.. New fluid is still perfect. I'll have to re-pull the pan to see if there is anything on the magnet. I think it could be some stuck valves in the VB also.
98 ford expedition 4.6 2wd, 4r70w only reverse works. Here's the low down on what happen.
First off the truck overheated a little then was cooled off and coolant added. about a week later it wouldn't go forward so i told my wife to check the tranny fluid it was low barely on the dipstick, fluid was added and she was on her way. this past weekend the truck sherd all 5 lugnuts on the driver rear wheel. fixed that but went to drive it away and the tranny was slipping a little. added 2 quarts to fill and on the way again. 3 days later went to drive it to my dads shop to find out where the fluid is going, its slips again, added 2 quarts to fill just to drive 6 miles.
It drives fine until i get to my destination we have to stop to open a gate, i put in neutral to roll back to open the gate and no forward gears, only revers. i drive backwards to the shop about 300' and the tranny is empty again. looks like the fluid is going into the radiator which i'm sure caused the overheating a couple weeks back. no water is getting into the tranny. I've changed the filter and fluid and radiator, but still no forward gears only reverse. could there be an easy fix, electrical part maybe or mechanical or do you think its trashed and need replacing.
I got a 2004 F150 that won't go into reverse. All other gears work, including 4 wheel drive. I checked the linkage and it is working.
View 1 Repliesif a 2002 4x2 ford ranger was towed into a shop because the clutch failed is there anyway the #2 syncro or anyother internal part of the transmission could be damaged while the service department repalced the clutch?
View 1 RepliesI have a 92 F150, 2 wd, 4.9L 6 cyl, 4 speed with OD, hydraulic clutch. Awhile back I noticed the clutch starting to slip. Eventually it was slipping so much that I took it in for repair. When I went to pick it up, the mechanic showed me that the clutch disc was in fair shape, but the throw-out fingers on the pressure plate diaphragm were bent inward. As I recall it was more of a rounded bend as apposed to a sharp bend. What could cause that to happen?
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 f150 with a 4.2L V6 and a 5 Speed M5R2 manual transmission, I recently got a rebuilt trans for my truck. I installed it with no issues, while my truck was still on jack stands I tested it out, it shifted into every gear no problem but after I took it off the stands and pulled it out of my backyard, when I take off in 1st its fine with the clutch being slowly released, but as soon as I let go of the clutch the truck just buckles and some times tries to flat out stop.
I'm not sure if I have a Clutch issue, Transmission issue or axle issue, when I tried it out on jack stands I had the stands supporting the rear on the axles so some of the weight of the truck was and the rear axle and it didn't buckle then so I wouldn't think it'd be the axles but when it was on the ground it'll buckle. I even had someone move the truck forward and release the clutch slowly until in was fully releases and looked underneath and saw the axle buckle upward,
What the issue is it only does that when the clutch is released or if I'm lucky enough to release it without buckling once I go to shift to second and press in the clutch the whole truck just comes to a complete stop without the engine stalling. I thought maybe it was a clutch issue and that maybe I put the clutch plate backward(which I'm pretty sure I didn't)but even if I did, I wouldn't even be able to shift it into any gear, at least that's what I think. I bleed the clutch before taking it out so I don't think that could be the issue either.