Ford Transmission :: C6 Slips In Drive But Works Fine If Manually Shifted
Jun 13, 2012
I have a 78 f100 2wd, 300 inline 6 and I've put 2 c6 transmissions in it. The transmission shakes real bad in reverse. When you put it in drive and try to take off it wants to quit pulling but when you put it in first gear and shift up to 2nd it works perfect. My plan was to just junk the C6 and switch to a manual trans but I don't know what trans I would swap it with.
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2002 f150 7700 with 5.4 triton and 4r100 tranny started chugging under acceleration and now stalls when put in D, 2 or 1. park and neutral are fine and reverse works perfectly.
Now when I put it in drive it chugs and stalls immediately... 1/10 times it will keep running but chug violently like its running out of gas. will get worse and stall if you press the gas. i can light the tires up for a block in reverse however.
Changed coils 1 2 and 3, IAC, bank 1 knock sensor, camshaft position sensor
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I have a problem with my transmission slipping. It seems to happen most often when I have shifted from park into drive and am going uphill. I don't really notice a problem with it when I am on flats or even at red lights. It can drift backwards for 10-15 feet before "catching."
I don't feel any problem when I am going faster or in higher gears. 1999 Ford Explorer SOHC 6 Cyl 4.0...
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I have a 2006 F250 Lariat super Duty / 6.0 L engine / 143000+ miles / once started and transmission shifted into drive it takes 5 seconds or more for it to engage hard or if I build up the RMS then it jumps into gear hard, after it gets going it feels like I am driving on a washboard until it get warmed up good 10 mile or so. Is it the transmission filter and if so which one, I understand there is a small one on the outside of the transmission if so where? I can't find it.
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B1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driving for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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I think I've joined the ranks of the no overdrive in our Monte club. Bought the car last summer, 184K on the odometer. Previous owner was original owner. Said trans was always strong. Took the car for a spin Saturday. Previously, no OD issues. It's cold out. Pulled up to a light to get out onto main road. Right turn on red. accelerated normally, but noticed a long hold in 1st before shifting into second. Never saw it before, so was paying attention at the next light, which was right away. Accelerated again, and again a long hesitation going from 1st to second.
Next light is right away again. Light turns green, car shifts normally and I drive it about 10 miles. No issues. I paid particular attention to it going into overdrive, and it did. Arrive a junk yard. Got the part I wanted. Spent about an hour in there. Came back out and started home. Car shifted ok, but did not want to go into overdrive. Thought to myself, well, maybe it's cold. Drove some more. Nope. Never wants to go to overdrive anymore. It does shift from 1-2-3-4 ok. I've heard about the stripped spline in the output shaft, but I was wondering if there is another controller somewhere inside, or outside of the trans that could be causing this issue. When I am in OD and in 4 gear and driving at about 50 MPH and I shift it to D, I feel it shift into 3rd. I plan on getting it diagnosed, but was wondering what you all are thinking.
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I have a 2003 F250 with a 5.4L V8 automatic transmission with 64,000 miles. The truck runs and drives well, but occasionally while driving, it acts like it shifts into a higher gear, slips a bit, then downshifts and runs fine. The duration of this "acting up" is about 1-2sec. It seems to do it when going up a slight grade at cruising speed about 40-50mph. (Not towing when it does it) It doesn't do it all the time. I'm planning to change the filter and fluid but am doubtful that will work. The fluid color is nice bright pink and does not smell unusual.
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I am not the sharpest tool in the box. I was driving my 1979 f250 with a full load of fire wood going about 45mph when I shifted it from drive to reverse (I thought I was in 1st) the truck mad a loud whining sound then refused to go on. Now when I shift it in gear it feels like it wants to move and if I revved up high it will rock back and forth. A friend jacked up the rear end with the wheels off the ground the tiers spun in all gears including park and I was told they could stop the wheels by hand with the car in drive. He then took the cover off the rear end and found it to be low on fluid but no signs of damage. What I broke?
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I have a 97 ranger 2wd 4.0 with 5R55E. Drives fine in 1st and second. Slips in drive and rev.
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Was going to leave the other morning and put it into reverse and nothing happened. Tried every other gear and works fine. Reverse is the only thing giving me problems right now. Tried doing some research on my own, because I can't afford a tranny rebuild. I was hoping it was either the solenoid or low/reverse band. I don't know about the band, because it works fine in low2 and low1....
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One of our trucks, 2004 F350 Powerstroke, my company truck, recently the last snow even we had, my tow haul mode would pop on and off almost evertime I shifted from drive to reverse while plowing. I didn't want it on, it just kept poping on and off. Thought maybe the button was stuck, but it moved like normal. My other thought was there is a loose connection in the shifter or column causing it to go on and off.
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I have had my 2010 Prius since August 2009, and have never experienced this til now.
I had pulled into my driveway and was talking on the phone using my factory-installed bluetooth speakerphone. When I power the Prius off while doing this, the call is in limbo for like 30 seconds before my phone's internal speaker picks it back up, so I put the car in Park and sat there talking.
I talked for about 10 minutes. Suddenly, the car started creeping forward and I hit the brake pedal. The car had shifted from Park to Drive.
No harm was done, but from now on I'm going to engage the emergency brake too.
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I got a new truck bed and decided it was time to finally fix my rear lights. Both blinkers work but only one brake light. It has really got me stumped. Also the rear running lights don't work and never have. When using a multi meter I get continuity between the running light positive and the common negative but only when the rear light harness is plugged in which means the short is somewhere on the way back or under the dash? Any tips about tracking this stuff down.
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I just picked up an 05 6.0 Limited and love it, but I can't figure out the overhead temperature gauge. It shows -40 degrees no matter what, but if I hit the outside temp button on the climate control, it shows the (mostly) correct temp. I verified that the temp sensor in front of the radiator is still there and hooked up, and it seems to me that Ford wouldn't go to the expense of using separate sensors for each readout, so I'm guessing that the problem is in the overhead unit itself. All of the other functions (compass, mileage, range) work just fine. I've seen several threads about the overhead dying completely as chips rattle loose. Is it also common for just specific functions to go out as things start to shake apart?
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About 9 months ago heard a strange noise when shifted into 4 wd , sounded like driving over those grooves on the side of the highway to keep people awake.
Had to pull over to stop , as it would not go back into 2wd with the noise still going.
Then it stopped , after shutting truck off and restarting.
Then earlier this year after trying to do it again in 4wd had bad clunking noise and was hard to get back in 2wd , I can here the shift motor engaging and the dash reads in 4wd, seems its not engaging fully in 4wd and not going back to 2wd, its a very bad clunking noise, shakes the whole truck.
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I have a 1999 ranger 3.0 4x4 automatic the truck has a delay when put into drive sometimes it slips at take off unless I force it to downshift and stay in first and from second to third gear it shifts very hard at around 3500 rpm would an oil and filter change. I do not have the cash for a new trans and I can't afford a new truck. I love my little ranger...
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I just had a 97 Ford Ranger with a 3 speed overdrive transmission in my garage that we replaced the transmission because it was not shifting down into first gear, not even manually!. The new transmission is doing the exact same thing as the original.
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I was reading yesterday where someone was wishing for a tuner that would allow you to skip 1st gear. I realized today that you can do that in Manual mode and was even surprised to find out that it would even let you start in 3rd. Driving around without a load, 1st gear does seem a bit of a nuisance. You can't really get on the throttle until you get 2nd! Playing around with it a bit, starting in 2nd, and even 3rd around town was really nice and I didn't miss the shifts. The other thing I noticed that when in manual, it will down shift based on speed, but not throttle position, so if you're going fast enough, it will maintain that gear without downshifting as you apply more throttle. I'm assuming that Ford put some thought into this and won't let you shift in a manner that will cause damage. It would be nice, however, if it would bypass 1st if not in Tow/Haul mode and not make you do the manual shift thing.
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape 4x4Automatic with 97K on it. It has just started slipping in Drive. It will go in reverse just fine. If i put it into 2 or 1 it will take right off then I can move it into D but only with the OD off. If it is on the engine revs and you don't go anywhere. I have no lights flashing or bells going off. The fluid is clean and doesn't smell burned. Is my transmission toast? Is there a chance I can have it fixed cheaply or even do it myself?
Here are the symptoms once again.
Moves in Reverse.
Revs in D with OD on or off
Moves in 1 or 2 with OD on or off
When you get it moving you can put it into D with OD off and get 3rd gear. If OD is on It just revs.
When you come to a stop in D with the OD off and try to take off again it just revs. You have to use 1 or 2 to get moving again.
Will the car make it 300miles home so i can have it looked at?
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I have a 77 ford f100 I am restoring. I have two factory am/fm radios. I bench test both with antenna male plug all the way in, and the fm works fine on both radios. The only way to get am to work, is to slide the male antenna plug all the way out till it is just touching, then if I jiggle it, the radio plays.
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