Some folks swear by a 5/16 8 point socket, of coarse I dont have one, so I want to make sure b4 i buy anything. Looking at adjusting the 2nd gear band on a 72ish C6 ... As you know its a square end bolt, I dont own the correct square end socket either, so any direction would be groovy
View 1 RepliesWant to replace the rotors on my '97 2wd truck. What size socket do I need for the spindle nut? Can't seem to find that information with a search. I popped off the dust cap and test fitted a couple of sockets after removing the cotter pin and cap that locks the nut in place. 1" too small, 1-1/16" a little loose, so I'm thinking this nut is metric and I want a 26mm socket?
View 3 RepliesWhat size socket is used to remove a lug nut on a 2000 F350 4X4?
View 6 RepliesWhat is the proper socket size for the oil filter housing?
View 2 Replies1999 F250 CCSB Lariat 5.4, 2 wheel drive. I plan to replace the Driveshaft Center Bearing in the next few days. What size is the Nut that I have to remove to remove the yoke next to it so I can press the bearing off?
View 4 RepliesWhat size socket I need to remove the driveaxle hub bolts from this car? I can see the bolts are considerably larger than the socket I have for my Ford Tauruses, and I would like to eliminate the guess work before I go to carquest to get the proper socket. Unfortunately bringing the car to the store and trying sockets until I get one that fits is not an option, since the car is not running right now.
View 3 RepliesBought a used 1997 Lariat Supercab 5.4L last week. It was missing its front drive shaft so I want to install one.
I just ordered a used front drive shaft online but I now need the bolts that connect everything together. New drive shaft has all the flanges, etc.
What is the pitch/length of these bolts? The part number for the bolts is N800594-S100 (AB-308-D). I believe there would be 8 of them, 4 on each side.
I thought it might be easier and cheaper to just buy bolts from an aftermarket supplier instead of OEM from Ford.
I need to take the tranny (automatic) off the old engine (BEW).
What are type/size are the bolts connecting the tranny to the block?
The 2 bottom ones I got out using (assuming) 10mm (?) triple square.
What size (socket/tool) and type (triple square, torx, allen) are the others?
At least once a week, only the FM band appear on my factory nav. My sat 1, sat 2, and fm2, and am1 band all dissapear. I have to turn the car off and back on to get everything to work again.
The cars currently in the dealer for an other issue and they are looking into this one also. Seems not much is going to happen as it's unduplicabale. I even showed them the videos I have take of it happening. Call VWOA and they said they will look into it.
I had the sirius module replace once, new firmware twice, and in the dealer another time and they couldn't replicate the issue.
I just had new tires put on my rx330 and had an unbelievable combination of errors occur. The tire store put on 215/65 r17 tires on the front and 235/65 r17 tires on the rear. I know this sounds impossible but that's what happened. So I ended up with a substantial mismatch in tire sizes front to back.
Unfortunately I didn't discover this until 2 weeks later after driving around 225 miles half of which was high speed highway driving. Before the tires were changed the car ran straight without any pull to either side. Now it pulls to the right.
The tire store has offered to replace the tires with the correct ones and to compensate me for any damage to the transfer case, viscous coupling unit or transmission.
So how do I determine what level of damage occurred if any? Would all the damage be evident already simply driving the car. Alternatively, would the damage be a reduction in the operational lifespan of the drive train leading up to a "surprise" future failure?
The tire store has asked for an estimate of the repair costs which will be evaluated by an appraiser.
I don't want to identify the tire store until after a final settlement has been reached. However, it is a popular nation wide tire retailer.
My excursion's trans is slipping on the 25hp tune up high in the RPM band and shutters when up shifting. I have dropped to stock most of the time, but I know i am on borrowed time.
I had a JW trans in my e99, and there is no question on the durability and performance of the transmission. The price has gone up a lot, but that's maybe not the big issue.
I live in the mountains and spend a lot of time pulling and just driving in that 40 to 60 mph range over mountain passes. That is basically where I spend ALL of my time.
The distance between 3rd and 4th is driving me CRAZY! I have researched everything from swapping to a manual, to PCS controllers, to trying 4.11 gears, to overdrive units.
Swapping Manual: ZF6 is the obvious candidate, but I have read the swap is not probably something I have the skills or tools to do. I have also read that the performance of the ZF6 is sub par. But it seems like it would give me my 3.5 gear that I am looking for.
PCS Controller: Looks cool for a way to have control besides using the tree shift. Maybe a compromise on not swapping in a manual.
4.11 Gears: I get pretty excited thinking about the low end torque etc. I go off road almost every week, and like I said, I hardly go over 75 mph. But once in a while I do. Right now, the truck turns about 2300- 2500 rpm at interstate cruising speed. Looking for 4.10s rpm in that range to compare? Also, how bad of a fuel economy hit would I take? What is the cruising rpm of 4.10's between 60 and 65 mph, or in general what is the rpm change?
Overdrive Unit: I have always been interested in more gears, but I read about someone who installed one behind a 7.3 and didn't have they great of results. To the point where he said it wasn't worth it.
My wife and I were on a road trip today about 120 miles from home. During some city driving I noticed a rubber band popped out from just above and behind the steering wheel airbag cover. I had no choice but to continue driving and as I steered through some turns I noticed it not only came out more and more but then started to get twisted up around the steering column. We were able to make it all the way home without an issue but the steering wheel is making a noise due to the rubber band/gasket whatever the heck it is which is now all twisted up behind the wheel, however I am unable to see it anymore.
I am not going to drive the car until I am able to get it in next week to the dealer and my car only has 7000 miles on it, it's a 2013 Sonata GLS.
I know it will all be covered under warranty but my biggest concern now is making sure the dealer is able to hear what I am able to hear since the rubber thing is no longer visible.
I have a 2000 Camry, 4 cyl. It was in an accident on the front right before I bought it. I took it to Sears for alignment and 4-6 adjustments were made to pull it to within spec. One evidently is not correctable (the caster). After I bought it and after the alignment, I replaced the sway bar link, as the upper ball and socket was very loose. The problem I am trying to solve now is when I turn at low speed, I get a sound like a plucking of a large rubber band. (BUNG) I jacked and blocked up both sides and turning both ways all the way made no sound or play, and nothing is touching like the wheel well plastic or other parts. Then, I lowered the front right (where the accident was) to put weight on it, and it no noise when turning. When I lowered the left side also, there was still no sound. No sounds or shaking at 50-60 mph.
View 5 RepliesAny newer model with aftermarket water separators? If so do they perform better than stock?
View 4 Repliesis there a diffrent spark plug socket too take out the plugs on the 5.4 3v motor cause i tried a socket i thought would work but i wouldn't go in the spark plug hole like what gives
View 4 Repliesi just purchased an '01 expedition with the 5.4. I was told #5 spark plug blew out. Upon examination, it appears to be #6, second from the front driver side. Anyway, as I was looking, it just didn't look right. There was a spark plug socket stuck in the well, with the plug still in place. How to get the socket out? I can get an extension on it and it will turn, but it's tight. But I can't pull the socket out.
View 9 RepliesChanged check engine bulb. Changed bulb socket too and check engine light still won't turn on in on position nor when I start the truck. Its a 1999 explorer.
View 1 RepliesHave a 2005 F350 4x4 SRW 5.4L with roughly 90k miles and I am replacing the original plugs. Broke three out of seven which was expected and have them replaced. You probably noticed I wrote 7 plugs above. The 8th plug which happens to be the #8 plug is giving me fits. I can't get a socket on it. The socket spins smoothly by hand with no ratchet over the plug but no upward movement. I cleaned the base of the hole thinking it might have some debris preventing it from hitting bottom. From what I can see after cleaning and blowing it out, the base of the hole is clean and there plug appears to have something for the socket grab onto. Out of curiosity, I have tried smaller and larger sockets in both 6 and 12 point with no luck. Is it possible the plug was set too deep in the head from the factory?
View 13 RepliesI need to replace my FRONT side marker socket.
This is the small 194 bulb socket, NOT the parking/signal socket.
There IS some sort of clip that, for the life of me I can't figure out.
I have a 1997 Explorer XLT. The high beam have not worked since I got it and now living in Virginia they are needed to pass inspection. When turned on (pushed forward) lights go out, high beam indicator comes on. When flash to pass (pulled back) lows stay on and indicator comes on. It does not have auto lamps.
What I have done:
Replaced MFS
Verified power from GRY/ORG wire on MFS when turning high beams on.
Verified power across fuse #33 when switch turned on.
Had bulbs tested, Good.
No power on high beam wire at the bulb socket.
The only thing I have not checked is what several people have referred to as a "splice" I think someone referred to it as S111? Where this is physically located or am I going to have to start the chore of tracing the wires?
Checking out my 2007 gasser this weekend an found that my third brake light does not work....no power to the socket. The cargo lights on either side of it in the same assembly work fine so I believe the ground to be intact. My question is does this light have it's own fuse? if not where should I start looking for the solution to my problem?
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