Why does my C6 shift at 4000 RPM when the throttle is open? My motor produces peak torque at 5000 RPM, and peak HP at 6500 RPM.
I would like to have the lower gear until I exceed the peak torque at least.
I have a 2011 f150. I go to put it in reverse no problem after I'm done backing up and put it in drive. The truck does not go anywhere but it will race up to about 4000 rpm without even having my foot on the throttle. Put in park then back into drive same thing happens. Put it back into park turn the truck off start it again and no problems. It drives just fine. I've had it to the dealer they say it is not throwing any codes so there is nothing they can do about it.
View 4 Replies96 F150 carbed 300 with a C6/208 SAS44/9" with 3.55 on 35s.
I put a transgo shift kit in the transmission before putting it in the truck, it also has a small stall. At half throttle you can manually shift 1-2-3 with no issue at all. Under full throttle when you shift to second it won't go into second until you push the shifter into third. Then it'll go to second and spin the tires when it grabs second in dirt. This is all in 4lo, I was gonna switch to 2hi and try it but it's raining and I don't feel like crawling under it to change it. The truck is a mud toy so will spend 90% of its time in 4lo.
I don't have a vacuum line currently hooked to the transmission because I have the same shiftkit (transgo) in my 77 and no vacuum line on it either and it works fine.
The C6 in my truck is acting odd.. its into drive by 17 to 21mph under light throttle and under moderate throttle it slips occasionally when shifting, the 460 had a fuel spurting motorcraft on it, had to swap that for an edelbrock 1406 to drive it. The kickdown is there but setup for another truck. I don't know if the c6 has a vacume modulator or if its all controlled through the kickdown rod.. it does need a fluid an filter change that's gonna happen this week.. this trans just has me leery with the soft shifts.. its in 2nd almost immediately after takeoff....
View 6 Replies2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
View 10 RepliesSo I drive a 2008 R32/U.S. spec and I was in neutral when I pressed the throttle and it would not rev over 4000 rpms and was wondering why??
View 24 Replies2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
View 4 RepliesI have an '08 Camry purchased a week ago. When I accelerate rapidly and the rpm hits 3500 to 4000 I hear a metallic grinding noise. It is only while crossing this rpm range. Only on acceleration. I have had some luck replicating the grind and making it last longer by feathering the throttle and holding the rpm in this range. It does not happen at any other range and I can get it to happen in D or 4. Have not tried other gears. My thought is some sort of drive train issue but the dealer mechanic says maybe an engine mount or something else. Sounds too metallic to be a rubber mount to me.
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased a '13 FX4, i love the truck, the Ecoboost power is incrediable. Recently while passing someone it made a horrible grinding sound, the dealer advised that it was known turbo issue that should have been corrected before we took delivery of the truck. When we took it in the dealer called and said they have Ford corporate involed because when the truck reaches WFO the four wheel drive tries to engage. Said it might be soem sort of vacuum issue.
Specs : 2013 Ecoboost Screw FX4 short bed. No mods, 6500 miles.
I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
View 6 RepliesI got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.
The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...
Have a 99 Ranger XLT, 4 cyl, manual transmission with 191K miles. Was running good as ever last night but went to start it this morning and throttle's stuck open, causing truck to move forward when in 1st gear. Even with clutch in, near impossible to get vehicle in or out of gear. Managed to get it into reverse, but truck was having none of it. What is the cause or causes of my trouble? Or how much the repairs might cost? I'm on the road so no chance of doing this myself.
View 2 RepliesHave any other PP 6MT owners experienced strange throttle hesitation while shifting with a APR 1.2 HO tune? I know what turbo lag feels like, but it is almost as if the throttle position is not being read for 1-2 seconds after shifting.
No matter how hard/fast I shift, I can't get the tires to chirp, even shifting at high RPM. When I watch my speedo after shifting, the needle does not move at all until the delay ends, and of course it moves fast when the boost builds. But for 1-1.5 seconds after shifting, with the pedal to the floor, I would expect some acceleration, even not at full boost.
Even when not shifting, and going from no throttle to medium/full throttle, there is a delay with no acceleration and no significant noise/rev build.
I don't remember this being as pronounced before I was tuned. Also, I had GFB DV+ installed about the same time, but I would expect the DV+ to make this better, not worse.
My 2004 V8 clunks when shifting gears, causing the engine to oscillate right through the seat. It also happens when driving a steady speed, e.g., 10MPH in traffic, and you goose the gas or release the gas altogether. So far:
1. Replaced transmission valve body
2. Replaced stepper motor
3. Replaced rear propellor shaft and bearing
I think this started with a reflash of the trans to cure the death lag.
It's only in manual with about 30-50% throttle shifting around 3K RPM and only from 1st-2nd-3rd, after that it's fine.
View 23 RepliesWell recently i bought a 79 f150 4x4 with a C6. I have been going over the regular stuff like vacuum lines, fuel lines, etc. I replaced all vacuum lines because most were cracked or stiff or just falling apart. The problem I am having is that the tranny doesn't want to shift to 3rd. I replaced the vacuum modulator hoping it would work, but no go.
The old modulator had the adjustment screw pretty much turned all the way out, so I am guessing that was done to cover up another issue. The truck shifts smooth as butta from 1-2, but over revs and never shifts when going to 3rd. This happens manually and when it is in D. Could it be an intermediate band? I am new to the auto tranny world so I am trying to soak up as much info as i can.
Whenever I completely engage the clutch after shifting into 5th, there car bogs for a second if I give immediate throttle after shifting. It doesn't happen if I wait a second or when driving in fifth gear.
View 12 RepliesAbout, one month ago my car shut off while driving(pretty scary at the time). I pulled of the road and attempted to start it again. Everything looked good there, but as I was making my way home from work it started to act funny. It would not acknowledge me depressing the accelerator. When I got home, I ate supper, then went to have a look.
The car would turn on, but not acknowledge me pressing the accelerator at all, It did however go up to 30 mph at a snails pace as if it was coasting down a hill. I plugged in my code reader, and it read that the Throttle Body Valve was stuck open. I took it off and tore into to it a bit. I noticed the gears inside the TB itself were corroded and the butterfly valve was locked up.
I replaced the part, and tried to turn my car on with the new TB. All the dash lights are in working order, however upon turning the ignition to crank the engine, the whole car system shuts down. No lights no nothing, besides the car door open sound. The car will remain like this regardless of the key position until I have reset the batter(take off the terminals and put them back on) to which the process repeats itself.
The code reader says no codes are stored because I obviously reset the battery. So now am at a standstill.I believe the old TB froze up, because I had to run in through 3 ft standing water during a storm, and then deployed shortly after(I'm in the service) for a few months while letting the car sit.
We have a 98 Honda Civic that recently developed a problem with the throttle getting stuck open. With the engine off, the throttle will return to the idle position. However, with the engine is running, when the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine revs increase, but then do not decrease when the pedal is let off. The same thing happens when the throttle is manually opened (not using the cable) with the engine running. The valve for the air intake doe not seem particularly dirty. I cleaned the spring assembly which I initially thought was the problem. The car is sitting the the driveway with both of us moderately terrified of driving it?
View 12 RepliesEvery so often, my manual transmission Corolla will "overthrottle" during acceleration, especially shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears (and sometimes even 4th), i.e., the engine will race above the usual RPMs associated with each gear, just for a bit. This however, isn't consistent. I still need to check if the engine air filter is dirty, which I suspect could be a part of the issue.
The vehicle has ca. 124,975mi, and only started exhibiting this problem 2-3 months ago, and only in 2nd gear. Again, this issue is very intermittent, and sometimes I can go a week or two without any incidents at all. The regular maintenance (oil changes, cooling system maintenance, etc.) has been faithfully performed according the manufacturer's specifications.
I've been using full synthetic 0W-20 oil since it was new(2010 Prius. It is an early build). Last time I had an oil change was about a year and a half ago, oil has 8,000 miles on it. I ran the car hard today at wide open throttle around town. Never driven this way for the past 68,000 miles/5 years. All fluid levels are normal. When I went to check the oil dipstick after running the car at WOT a few times, I noticed a few flakes on the dip stick. Nothing big, just a 1-2 flakes very small flakes every time I reinsert the dip stick. Flakes are about the size of a single dust particle. It's 86 degrees out, which supposedly 0W-20 should protect the engine.
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