Ford Transmission :: C6 - Randomly Delayed / Flared 3rd Shift Point
Oct 18, 2016
In my f100 the c6 had low miles on a rebuild and sat for probably 10 years, I have put around 14k miles on it since I got it. I have had a issue with it having a random delayed/flared 3rd shift point. If I am getting on it and miss letting off the throttle to let it shift. I have kept a eye on the fluid since it leaks all over the place, its about 1/2 quart for 2k miles and use type f. A week ago it stopped auto shifting into 3rd and have been manually shifting it to 3rd, when doing that it will then auto 3-2 and 2-3.
I got a superior R servo since I was unsure what I had and did not spend a lot on it, what is this r servo i pulled. The fluid that came out the servo housing had a lot of metallic shavings and smelt burnt, I also think the spring was installed backwards. I got 3rd back and in due time I will see if I still have delayed/flared 3rd shift, it has always had a hard 1-2 and 2-1 shift. This c6 has a transgo shift kit and I have a B&M kit in a valve body sitting from a wide band build I never completed. left superior and right unknown...
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2014 F250 automatic- 35k miles... just started having an issue. Noticed when the transmission is cold, the shift from 2nd to 3rd is almost delayed. It's enough of a pause you can feel it then it shifts. Weird thing is it only does for the first 3 stop signs leaving my house. Once the trans starts getting some temperature to it, it shifts perfect. I checked the fluid while hot and it showed a little low. I drove it after adding fluid but will have to wait till it's cold to see if it's any better... Think it was the fluid? But why just 2nd to 3rd gear only?
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2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.
Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.
Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.
Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.
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Ok I've got this 98 Ranger with the 2.5L and the 4r44e automatic. The engine is used and has about 100,000 miles now and is it a good state of tune - so I think. The transmission was a remanufactured I bought a few years ago that was built with the shift improver kit, Kevlar bands, extra planetaries, 4wd pan, and external cooler. It's now got 92,000 miles on it and it's been serviced every 30,000 with a fresh 4wd filter and Mercon V fluid. It's outlasted the last 3 transmission I've had in my Ranger. I've got 315,000 miles on the body. For awhile it was randomly losing power while driving like it wouldn't shift, almost like it dropped a couple cylinders, then as you kept your foot on the gas it would recover and rev up and shift.
Then sometimes randomly at stoplights it would shake at a stop and have no power at take off until it hits 30-40 mph. Sounds like a converter, is what I thought. But now it's doing it more often but not the shaking at stoplights as much as randomly losing power while driving normal speeds. Last night I drove it about 50 miles after doing a fresh filter and fluid change and this time it did it so much it threw a code up P1131. Even though that's a O2 sensor code, could it be hidden by a transmission valve body problem? One transmission shop said it could be a valve hanging up just by me describing it to him. Could this be ignition or fuel related or is it all tied in with the transmission problem, if it is even a transmission problem?
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As would be expected things deteriorate on a 16-year-old truck. My alarm has, on a few occasions, decided to annoy anyone around by activating for no apparent reason. This has happened in various conditions (in the parking lot, in the driveway, right after I've driven it, or sitting half the night). I chalked it up to aging circuitry.
Now I've picked up something new. Over the last few weeks my truck may or may not arm. It seems to be a flip of the coin. I'll drive to the store and I push the button on my remote and the truck goes "beep"..."beep". 10 minutes later I drive home, park the truck, push the remote, and the truck goes "beep"...and that's it. My alarm light is blinking two quick flashes when this happens.
Since this has started my truck has begun randomly having a delayed start. I'll disarm the truck, turn the key, and nothing happens for about 1 second or so (seems longer) then the truck starts normally.
Both of these issues started pretty close to the same time. I would normally go straight for a starter issue but I don't know if these might be related. I'm the second owner so have absolutely no idea about the Ford anti-theft system, how it's connected, or what the blinking lights mean.
I'm considering disconnecting the anti-theft system to see if that makes a difference but, as stated, how it's connected, what I might disable, or how it works. Was there any documentation published on it?
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I have a 2002 F150 Supercrew 4.6L 2wd truck. Just added a set of 32" tires to it. Trucks runs and drives great, so thing I don't like is that around town in traffic it shifts into OD to so. Is there a way of changing the OD shift point?
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I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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I have a 1991 bronco with a 351w and the e4od trans.. The transmission is shifting late and hard and sometimes when i let off of the gas to slow down it shifts between gears up and down by itself... The only lights on the dash that are on is the Rear Anti-lock brake light and the speedometer is not working either.. Where to start the trouble shooting to fix it?
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I bought a used VW 1.8T with Tiptronic Transmission ~88,500 miles, so I don't know what is normal and what I should be concerned with (I'm a stick shift person, bought this to be the family car). I particularly notice what seems to be a delayed shift when going up hill RPMs go up to ~4k before the shift. Is this a late shift?I've been reading a fair bit of online fora about the need to change the ATF + filter + clean the pan every 30-40k.
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hey there, new to your forum , been reading alot here , i have a 1999 f 250 super duty, frame was rotted, so i found a 2003 frame with motor , trans , transfer case & both axles , put my cab on it with the 1999 pcm , having trouble with low power on take off , shudders , poor shift points , at highway speeds , turn signal on , the speedometer will pulse same as blinkers, new head gaskets , timing chains , replaced trans with the old 1999.
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'95 LeSabre, 250K, runs great. Check engine light on randomly and signs point to a computer malfunction causing the light to come on. Is it true that only a dealership can replace the computer, not an indy mechanic? How much for the repair? Will it run ok w/o a new computer?
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I changed the transmission (automatic) in a 94 Honda accord EX 4 cylinder and now it delays when starting. What I mean is if you stick the key in and try to start it normally it will just keep turning over. However if you wait about three seconds with the key in the ON posssition it will start right up like normal. Otherwise it drivers normally. I noticed the fuel pump isn't kicking on right away to prime the rail, but I didn't touch the fuel system when I changed the tranny out.
Transmission has the proper amount of OEM Honda fluid. CEL is on but I don't know how to check the codes on this OBD1 vehicle.
I am suspecting either a weak fuel pump or I missed something during installation. I double checked to make sure everything was plugged in properly on tranny.
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I bought my '07 Passat 2.0T Wagon as a CPOVW 6 weeks ago. It had 4700 miles on it. I complained about the transmission having a delayed engagement when shifting into reverse and drive. (it drives normally however with positive shifts and is very enjoyable) I was told it was normal and not to worry. (could it be designed-in to soften the engagement?).
This week I noticed a light "thunk" in the right front when re-applying power while coasting below 40 MPH. I never noticed it before but I usually strive for smooth driving so that may be why. I've had other Aisin Warners but they were in Volvos. I got out of a '99 Volvo Cross Country because I didn't trust the driveline. Am I going down the same road?
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I have an 02 F250 V10. Ive always wondered about the transmission gauge. It seems to always point to the middle of the gauge range. This weekend I was pulling my car hauler up and over the Ozark mountains, and when I stopped for fuel I noticed the transmission was vomiting fluid underneath the truck (and on my exhaust creating a nice smoke bomb for everyone around me). The gauge indicated normal temps. It kind of gave me a sick feeling. I have ordered the 6.0 Trans cooler from Rock Auto and a new temperature sending unit. Do the trans temp gauge is supposed to move or is it pretty much useless?
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My transmission has been shifting rough and seems "delayed" in shift response.
I can only go from gears 1-3 without revving up to 3500-4500 RPM's before it will go ino 4th.
It does not hold RPM in 4, 5, or 6 and instead goes down to the normal idle spot.
I had it diagnosed and the codes are
P0761 Shift solenoid C Performance or stuck off
P0781
1-2 shift error
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This is on my 7.3PSD. I've observed that the 1-2 gear shift drops about 1,000 RPMs and takes a good half second or longer to do so when given a lot of accelerator pedal input. And then the 2-3 shift is a very quick and harsh shift.
If I am accelerating gently the 2-3 shift is as unnoticeable as the 1-2 shift is quick. Is the slow 1-2 shift causing the trans to protect itself and affecting the 2-3 shift? And if so, what do I do to resolve all of this? I changed the trans fluid a week ago and there is no change.
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I've had this happen twice: Foot on Brake, press start, car powers up. RED Triangle with exclamation point on dash. Message on MFD screen says something like "Transmission not properly engaged, move vehicle to level area and press Park"
I can't move it anywhere because nothing but the electrical system works. I can't even turn it back off.
Toyota tells me have it towed. They send "their guy", who is also the area AAA guy. Tow truck driver says he can't tow it because it won't go into neutral. So he jumps it...car shuts off when power is pushed. Push power again. Car starts fine.
Drive to Toyota. They keep it all day, do all kinds of diagnostic tests, tell me there's nothing wrong. I ask if it's the battery, they say it tests fine, but they'll replace it if I want (of course they don't keep it in stock and have to order it).
The car did the same thing this morning, but I was able to turn it off & restart. (That makes it #3)
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Replaced Troque Converter, Truck runs engine runs fine transmission won't shift out of 1st gear.
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I have a Ranger that I have put a 302 engine with an FMX transmission in...everything seems to be working correct except the transmission will not shift in to 3rd gear... don't know alot about transmission.. could this be a linkage adjustment issue?
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My 03 Jetta is having transmission trouble. It will shift from 1st to 2nd but wont shift to 3rd. It is an automatic 2.0.
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I just rebuilt the 390 in my 70 pickup and the c6 came out with it. I didn't touch the trans besides putting a new front seal on it, but now that I have the truck moving again, I don't get high gear. First to second shift is decent, even though I had to wire the kickdown down so I could drive it until I could get the holley kickdown extension. But I can give it full goose and the trans just won't give me 3rd. Even if I shift it manually it won't give me 3rd.
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