Ford Transmission :: Auto Trans Jump From Drive To Neutral?
Oct 19, 2012
So I drive a 79' f-150 and my truck when I take left turns, start on a steeper incline or give it too much gas my automatic transmission tries to jump from drive to neutral. This only happens initially; if I'm on the free way and at a higher rate of speed it doesn't do this but it seems like when I give it any more than a little gas it tries to jump into neutral (it has once) it doesn't or hasn't really done this on right turns I don't know if that makes sense or not.
Why it may be doing this and if so what I might be able to do about it? I do have a book for my truck and I have done some small things but I don't really know a whole lot.
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I bought it for cheap. not shure what tranny is in it. So when you you put it in od it will take off and shift fine all the way to od. getting going and drive it a few miles and it will slip out of od into to neutral. I can put it in drive and it does fine. I did lose all forward gears earlier tonight though. First time it did this. OD is the only gear it slips out of. it willl re engage below 40 mph. But I usually just shift to drive and go on.
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On my 2.5 SE auto, it feels like the car shifts into neutral at stop lights. Is this the case? If so, is this cause for concern. I know on my old Volvo S60, they removed this feature because it was causing premature wear with all of the extra shifting into and out of neutral.
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Daughter driving truck truck quits moving, I get there no drive and no reverse, has low and 2nd manually.
drive truck home, flush trans and cooler, road test all ok. this was 3 weeks ago.
This morning did it to here again, no drive and no reverse, she drove it home using manual low and 2nd.
I get in and when put into drive it feels like it tries but doesn't go all in, same with reverse. pulled it into low and vola I now have drive and reverse again
I'm thinking a we may have a bad or going bad shift solenoid. What I need to know is, is any of the solenoid valves on when in reverse are they the same as when in drive?
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I have a 94 E350 with the 5.8 and E4od trans. The main issue I am having is the thing will just go into neutral driving down the road. It only happens for about a second. The engine revs up and I back out of the throttle and it will hook back up. It sometimes does it as it is shifting up through the gears. It also sometimes does a real hard 1-2 shift and sometimes downshifts when there is really no need. I took it to get the codes read today and there was nothing.. It is so frustrating and I baby the thing all the time because I don't want to be hard on the throttle when it loses drive.
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My 02 trans with 189k miles on it has lately started not going into park completely. Every once in a while it will feel like it is in park, but when i get out of the truck it starts to roll away, and the park pawl can be heard ratcheting. The shift tube screws are tight, as is the tube itself and the shift lever. Does this sound like the trans will have to come out?
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A friends son just bought a 94 powerstroke. auto trans. it will not shift out of first unless you let off throttle. but once in second it shifts fine, until you stop and go back to first. I am thinking bad or sticking second gear solenoid, but do not want to give bad info.
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The car has about 53k miles. The problem has persisted since probably 20k miles. The whine is only after the trans warms up and is in drive or reverse, not in neutral. Whine is while the car is stationary or moving at low speed. The whine doesn't seem to change due to gear it is in. It does not change frequency with engine RPM. It does seem to diminish the more load the transmission is under.
Whine is probably not an accurate description, it sounds like a noisy pressure relief valve. Had Hyundai service look at it and all they said was all pressures in the transmission are normal. They could not find any cause.
It sounds like a bunch of small ball bearings running in a loop and can hear each one impact. Sharp raspy impact type sound.
You cannot hear it from the interior but it is quite pronounced while in the garage or if you hear the car coming down the driveway.
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I'm wondering what transmission fluid is the best to use for my 73' f100? Also wondering if changing the Fluid would stop the tranny from slipping. When i start her up reverse works great pops in every time quickly, but when i go into drive nothing happens like its in neutral?? after awhile of sitting and pressing on the gas a few times it pops in gear but very slowly and in stages.
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When taking off the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift the truck will go into a neutral state for 2-5 seconds. when this occurs, the rpms will rev since your foot is on the accelerator. Once you let off the accelerator the rpms come down and the gear will catch. I have had the truck in the shop a few times without any luck. part of the problem is no codes are thrown so the dealer has no clue what to look for. This is extremely dangerous when in my case i pull out on a 6 lane hwy with 55mph speed limit. Ford more or less said to pound salt until a code is thrown or until something else happens. this nearly caused a nasty wreck 2 weeks ago.
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I drive a 1998 Ford Contour, the transmission goes into neutral on takeoff in drive, you can manually shift through the gears and get going, but not from drive.
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While driving the other day the automatic transmission in my 2003 Santa Fe slipped into neutral. I pushed the car home wherre it currently sits. I checked for error codes and found none. There is a grinding noise when I shift from any gear into park.
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My wife's 2004 V6 Camry is not happy. As you accelerate from a stop, the automatic transmission will go from first gear to second, and then sometimes just drop spontaneously into neutral. Because you are in the process of accelerating, the engine RPMs increase until you take your foot of the pedal. In the short trip to the dealership for testing, the problem seemed to reset itself when the car was fully stopped. Other times it just reengaged with the transmission on its own without stopping.
Each time the transmission disengages, another strange thing happens--the instrument panel goes bonkers. The speedometer needle drops to zero, but the tach keeps working. The ABS, check engine, and brake lights turn on.
The dealership had the car for several days and has only been able to scan codes indicating the ABS system and the rear wheel speed sensors. I'm skeptical--especially since the repair estimate is nearly $4,000! I'm taking the car to an independent shop tomorrow for a second opinion.
I can follow up with more details from the dealership's diagnostic report, but for now, all I can say is that the car has almost 100,000 miles and we haven't had a bit of trouble with it until now. I replaced the transmission fluid about 10,000 miles ago.
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For a few months now I have been hearing a tap clunk type noise coming from under the car when I shift the auto trans into drive and reverse. Also sometimes when the car is slowing when driving I hear the tap sound as it shifts into first. I drove in by my local dealer and they listened to it and said Elantra transmissions can get noisy there is nothing wrong. They told me I have plenty of Warranty left so if something happens I will be covered.
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I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
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Quick question. I have a 1992 Ford E-350 Box Truck and during a recent highway trip the transmission slipped and I lost Drive (3rd). The van drives fine in 1st, 2nd, reverse, and overdrive. When it's in D, it wont move at all from a stop. I'm able to get it in to overdrive by starting in 2nd, accelerating to about 35mph, then shifting it in to D. If I accelerate enough after shifting to D, I can usually get it to shift in to OD. The fluid is full and clean.
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B1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driving for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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My 2011 Hatchback automatic has developed a whine in park, neutral and drive. ATF fluid level ok and changed by dealer every 25,000 miles. Seems to be coming from under the car. Could it be the transmission oil pump? If so, does it mean removing transmission to replace? I don't think it's the fuel pump. 62,000 miles.
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220,000 miles, auto transmission slip in drive, reverse ok. What needs to be fixed and what will it cost?
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Eco Transmission. Neutral at stop lights save gas compared to Drive?
I almost feel like when I'm stopped in Drive it's actually in neutral. I'm curious if being in Neutral at really long red lights would save gas?
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I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
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