Ford Transmission :: AOD Seems To Stay Locked Up In Either Drive Or Reverse
Jul 29, 2015
91 F-150 4x4 with AOD. OD,D,1st gear. The truck will idle fine, but when I put it into gear it seems like it is locked in in either drive or reverse. Its hard to stop at lights or stop signs and boggs the engine down and has no low end power. When in neutral it is fine. I have replaced the torque converter with a new one, no change. I replaced the valve body with a constant pressure body as well and still no change. Is there anything else that could keep the thing locked up? The smaller inside overdrive shaft looked good and slid in and out easily. Is there any kind of solenoid in the AOD that would cause this or if vacuum has any role in this problem...
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Last night I backed up out of a parking space and when I put it in drive it wouldn't move. It seemed like the transmission was locked up. What happened? The truck was running fine. It's a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0 with auto transmission. Getting it serviced? I'm tempted to go to a dealer. What the problem is? Repair costs? The fluid looks good - no burning smell.
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79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
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So there I was, a very proud owner of my new Touareg driving down to DIA (Denver airport) to pick up my mates from England and show off the new motor, After I pick them up I push the gear lever button in and try and move it out of drive - it jammed solid. The button would not come out after I had pushed it in and the gear lever would only move from Drive to Neutral and I could not get the key out of the ignition. I had to get my mates to push it backwards while I had the car in neutral. Managed to drive it directly to McDonald Automotive in Littleton. They gave me a loaner car within half an hour and fixed the car by noon the next day. I guess the mechanism inside the gear lever was not assembled correctly from the factory.
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My truck does not go into reverse but thinks all positions of shifter are drive. I had some slippage and changed the filter and oil great for awhile then blame no reverse just forward I was told my torque converter was out I just don't know....
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I have a stock 1986 Bronco with a 351w/C6 and towing package. Recently it has started doing some things differently. It clunks when going into reverse or drive, but only when warm. It makes a weird clicking noise at low speeds. There is a severe vibration at around 60 mph when under power, but it goes away when I let off the throttle
This started in the last 500 miles or so of a 3000 miles move across the country. How do I go about diagnosing what exactly is wrong with this? I'm not having much luck with finding others who have had these same symptoms.
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I have a 94 E350 with the 460 and the E4OD trans. that has only 30K on it.
Last weekend I took it on a 250 mile trip (one way) and it ran beautiful until the final steep hill to our vacation house. It started vibrating when it went to down shift and wouldn't pick up any speed, the OD off light was blinking. When I pushed the OD button and it cleared right up. Ran beautiful until I tried to climb that same hill again (same thing happened). It showed the same symptom when I tried to back up a steep driveway during the same trip.
Now it no longer does the vibrating but now has harsh/firm up shifts. Downshifts are smooth though, but shifting into reverse and drive are bit clunky too.
The codes I pulled were KOEO 212 and 668. After I erased the codes the 668 didn't come back. But I did change the MLPS to the new updated one from Ford and its still doing it.
I also found the 40amp mega fuse under the hood was blown too, related? Could a 1/2 qt over filled trans. cause this now too? In NH I added some fluid thinking it was low because I could not get a clear reading on the dipstick but I think the level was up there.
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I been working on this unit and I running into this
no foward
no reverse
no foward in and gear at all
I have to check pump pressure
I'm changing fluid and filter
1994 F53 460 CID will not move in drive or reverse - iRV2 Forums
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Just finished putting a fresh 460 backed by a (1977) c6 in my '68 ranger and now I'm having (what I believe is) transmission problems. The truck will idle and rev properly in gear but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse the RPM's drop and it dies. I jacked the back end up and put it in both drive and reverse and the tire's spin, but if I try and apply the brake to stop them the truck will die. My suspicion is that the torque converter is locked up all the time. I have managed to get it in gear and give it gas and it'll drive and shift fine, until I come to a stop. My question, what would cause the converter to do this? It's the same transmission and converter that I pulled out a month ago and I never had any issues before...
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So here in Wisconsin for the last two weeks we have had nothing but ice. That being said, I have a '96 ranger 3.0L, automatic transmission, 4x4. 4 wheel is inoperable at the moment, that's a different story. Here's my question: with the ice, there has been a lot of tire spinning at high RPM's, the other day, I was again stuck on the ice and rocked back and forth had some pushers, thought we were getting somewhere but I went to shift gears and all of a sudden had nothing. No Reverse, Drive, OD, L, 2. Did I blow my tranny? There was no noise or grinding, but the OD light seems to blink. Is there something I can check or look at?
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I have a new issue that started last Friday. When I put the truck in gear and let it begin to pull itself, drive or reverse, it has a strange jerking or slipping deal. It doesn't happen every time but when it does you can feel it in the drivetrain. I took it to the shop that did the motor work and they ran a diagnosis(while I watched) on the motor and its turns up nothing. It runs perfect, shifts like it always has, but just has this jerking/slipping thing when I let off the brake and it starts to pull itself.
If I go from brake to throttle its fine. I had the rearend diff worked on to fix the leaky ring and pinion seal and the differential cover sealed at the dealer last month. I searched and don't see anything like what I am experiencing. Could my tranny be giving it up now? It has never been overworked and never overheated. I had the full fluid service done at about 70k and now it has about 130k on it.
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I was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
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I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
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Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty that blew a front seal on the transmission two weeks ago. I sent it to a shop and they replaced the seal, and torque converter. However when they put it back in it will not engage in drive or reverse. After working on it several days we replaced the transmission with another one from a service company. This replacement came with a 90 day warranty. However once it was installed it does the same thing and will not engage in drive, or reverse. I am not sure what is going on but with two doing the same thing it makes me thing maybe electrical or something else.
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I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
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My future mother-in-law has a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. Last night night when she tried to put it in gear, the car would not go in reverse or drive. She recently had a tune-up on her car a month ago and everything seemed to be working fine. I think the transmission is dead. Does that sound right?
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I have a 2015 Lexus rx 350 it is not all wheel drive. When I put the transmission in drive or reverse I have what I would call a double engagement. It feels like it is going into gear twice. It does not slip it shifts smooth.
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2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
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I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
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