Ford Transmission :: A4LD Not Releasing Lockup In Both 3rd And 4th
Jan 14, 2015
A4LD transmission NOT RELEASING LOCKUP in both 3rd and 4th? My 1991 Ranger 4.0 will get into lockup sooner than normal(comparing the recent past), and would stay in lockup long enough to make the engine shudder when I slow down to come to a stop. (much like holding 4th gear without putting in the clutch when you approach a stop.
It doesn't die out and does shift into the proper gear but only after the RPMs dive down to probably 400 and the vehicle shudders a bit. Received and replaced the throttle position sensor today, looking to do the vacuum modulator this w/e. Any other possibilities?
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For a while now my transmission has only been able to shift manually for about the first mile of travel when cold or if it sits for more than a couple of hrs.
I drove it that way for a while. Now it only shifts manually all the time and I have to shift from 2nd straight to overdrive. It won't shift to 3rd but stays in second gear until I shift to OD. Then I do have OD.
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I have a 1993 ranger 3.0L/6cyl/automatic/ a4ld. I replaced the transmission and torque converter with one from a salvage yard that has approx. 76k miles. I added tranny fluid and idled the engine for approx. 10 minutes in neutral, but the fluid has not begone to circulate. I pulled off the trans line at the radiator and there is no flow with the engine running in park. Where should I start with the diagnostics for this problem?
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So I have installed a 331 stroker with an AOD trans in an early Bronco.
The question is... What is the correct procedure for getting the lock up converter to function? How does it need to be wired?
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Vehicle: 1994 TripleE RV based on Ford E350 7,3 Diesel, 70000 miles.
My trans is skipping out of lockup for 1-2 Seconds and then goes back to normal operation with lockup engaged. I am shure that it is the lockup disengaging because the increase in rpm is not as much as between gears.
This happens appr once or twice every hour when driving at normal constant highway speed. It happens both in 3rd and in OD. There is no flashing OD lamp, and the OD button is working (I use this actively when going up hill to keep up momentum and rpm)
I am not able to find out what causes this. I have replaced the speed sensor on the rear axle, the rpm sensor on the engine and the brake light switch on the brake pedal. Replaced one item at the time to be able to determine if any of these items was causing the problem. But none of them made any difference, the problem is still there. I have also inspected the harness connector on the trans and it seems fine to me.
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How to release the shift knob and boot from the transmission stalk on a B6 Passat automatic?
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Have an 89 shorty, 3.0 with the a4ld tranny. Every once in a while, the other day being the worst, the tranny will not engage right away, not in D, and then not in R either... go back to D, wait about 20 secs, and it then acts fine.... but it's was a scarey 20 secs!
it only happens when it's cold, and hasn't been running... the fluid does need a change, and it will slip sometimes when it's warm in first gear, but not often. it's like a reddish brown color right now.
Is it time for a new tranny? or should I try to do a gentle flush on her first to see if that works... or just do a new filter and new tranny fluid for that... some people say it could make things worse, some say better....
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My R has been giving me some trouble lately. First I had some issues, I thought were clutch related.
-A loud clunk when releasing clutch pedal (only when engine running) and sometimes when depressing it too.
-Randomly changing clutch biting point when driving hard. So e.g. when revving through 1st and 2nd gear the clutch would bite much lower than usual. (This was so weird.)
-Whistling sound when changing from 1st to 2nd gear.
Replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and the TOB and bled the system several times. Also new solid DLI motor mounts and new oem dogbone mount.
There was some side-to-side play on input shaft that I was told is not a big deal. Also this gearbox has always been much louder than other cars Ive driven.
Now that weird changing clutch biting point is gone but other issues are still there. And now, because of the lightweight smf and the motor mounts the gears shatter and whine so much more on low revs and during engine braking. I know 02m s tend to do that but its so loud I am a bit worried.
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I have a 94 ranger with the a4ld in it. When I bought the truck the trans was shot so I took it out and rebuilt it including new pump and torque converter. Now after putting it back in the truck wont move. so i took one of the lines off of the cooler and there is no fluid moving...?????what should i do before i cut my losses and blow the damn thing up??
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Got a '94 Explorer 4WD that needs a new tranny modulator. Is there an easy way to get at it on the side of the tranny? The catalytic converter heat shield is in the way and I can't seem to get it out or gain access to the modulator area without removing the catalytic converter.
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Just picked up a 90 Ranger last night, 4.0 EC, good ole A4LD, from a recipt I found has 70K or so on rebuild, was driving it today and the TC unlocked, and now it won't lock back up. I checked fluid and it was a little low, topped it off and drove it, and it was the same thing. I'm kinda new to thease A4LDs I know they can have issues, but can be good too. Just want to know whats going on so I can fix it! No codes were found when I scanned it. Trans otherwise shifts fine, you can feel it go into OD but no lockup.
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Anything besides a worn out Torque Converter clutch that might cause the incredible amount of shaking when the transmission tries to lock the TC?
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2000 Explorer 4.0 dohc avd. 150k miles. The torque converter lock-up function has started to drop out. It can happen after some miles and will light a warning light in the dash that the manual states as "contact tech" or something like that. Everything gets back to normal with just a "blip" to "off-position for the ignition switch and might stay normal for all between 5 minutes to several hours. Seems to me it is an electrical issue. Dirt, sensors?
Runs and shifts fine other than this. Only thing I have noticed is that the temp gauge reads pretty low but I think this started earlier and I understand that the temp gauge has its own sensor. Where to start looking?
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Looking for the fuse that controls the overdrive torque converter clutch/lock up/engagement. Had a look in the owner's manual, didn't find anything. Pulled a couple fuses that I thought might be the one, no go.
I had found this fuse b4 but now a couple years later can't remember which one it is and can't remember where I found the info on what # the fuse was.
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When running up through the gears under normal acceleration I can feel almost a double shift in 5th gear. It doesn't occur using tow/haul so I assume it is the TC locking up. Everything else seems fine. Truck has 9k miles, mostly towing. 2016 6.2 ....
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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Have a 2004 hyundai accent and I think I am having problems with the torque converter locking up in a timely fashion. It typically takes 15 to 20 minutes when I am driving on the highway. Is this normal for it to take that long? My gas mileage is terrible (22 mpg last fillup) and I am thinking its related to this.
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My 2012 Hybrid engine will idle up after releasing the gas. The engine is sufficiently charged when this happens.
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The clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
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I have a 2000 X 5.4... There is a loud roaring noise when releasing gas pedal or stopped (doesn't matter whether its in park or drive)...noise stops when giving gas...the noise is almost like a bull horn...there are no engine lights on so can't get a code...
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Have been getting stuck and not releasing when brake is applied? I know there is a rod that connects and releases this for brakes or something but can it be replaced easy or just bypassed which I would prefer ?
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