Ford Transmission :: 5R110W Direct Clutch Started Slipping In And Out At 40k Miles?
Mar 30, 2010
Having problem with 5R110W direct clutch. My nephew had his 2005 SD f 250 6.0 be told that 5R110W direct clutch problems. He was towing a trailer in tow mode and it started slipping in and out, so he took it to a dealer and they said that it was the direct clutch that was causing the problem and needed to be rebuilt, he only has 40000 miles on it but they said that it is out of warranty. What do you guys think that he should do?
View 12 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2003 F-250 Super Duty 6.0 4WD that has about 202,000 miles on it. I bought the truck with 83,000 miles on it and have never serviced the Torqueshift 5R110W Hi-Torque transmission. No new filters, no new fluid. In the interest of gettting the most life out of the truck I am trying to be a bit more proactive with maintenance. Does a flush/power purge will precipitate transmission problems? I am even concerned that dropping the pan and changing the filters and topping off fluid may cause problems. There are no problems presently and the dealership can't tell me that the've ever performed a transmission service for the previous owner via OASIS. Can I get away with a filter change and fluid top-off at a decent interval without incurring a condition that will require the transmission to be pulled and rebuilt?
View 10 Replies
The clutch started to slip on my 2006 Matrix at just 32K miles.Only going up hills ~3500rpm, near the engine's torque peak.The previous owner must have dogged it in the 8,100 miles they had it.Unfortunately no way to know that time bomb was there.
Got the car back today. (Excellent indie shop in College Park MD)The flywheel and pressure plate had blue color from overheating.The flywheel had to be resurfaced.The friction disk was not worn down much.The pressure plate springs apparently were weakened from the heat.I can really feel the difference.
View 19 Replies
Well the clutch started slipping finally, not sure if it was the weather change on the drive from here to PA but I slip 5 and 6th wot 4-5k rpms. Have some coin set away because I knew it was going to happen sooner or later did some searching and I'm curious to here the verdict on the RSR clutch how many miles and how its holding up as well as whatever else you are running. Will probably keep the car 2+ for quite a while so not really worried about 3+ power.
View 24 Replies
I'm a new owner of a 04 gti 1.8t. The car has been modified with a ko5 turbo @ 20psi, apr tune, 3" turbo back exhaust, hks bov, and a FMIC. The car is amazing, but with my luck after only a few days of owning the car the clutch started slipping.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2012 gti with a short ram intake, downpipe, and apr stage 1+ tune. I got the tune first and, as expected apparently, the clutch started slipping at lower rpm when I start to get on it. I'm ready to do my clutch. That being said, would it be in my best interest to change the flywheel or can I run the stock DM flywheel?
View 2 Replies
My son bought a 2008 Fit new. At about 16K miles, the clutch suddenly started slipping. He barely made it to a dealer and it was replaced at no charge. Recently, the clutch suddenly started slipping again at ~32K miles. Before you say he's hard on a clutch, he drive a 95 Civic with no clutch troubles for over 140K before selling it to buy the Fit. He took the Fit to another dealer (he's in a different state now) and was told the clutch is OK, they drained some fluid out. Would excess fluid cause a problem -- after 16K miles?
View 4 Replies
Three weeks ago: clutch started slipping
Two weeks ago: pulled the glovebox handle off just by opening it
Yesterday: curbed one of my barely 4 months since fresh powdercoat BBS RC's
And I've been developing a lovely "What the ark is getting ready to fall off in the front suspension?!" noise for the past few weeks, too.
View 20 Replies
I'll start out by stating that I failed to get new transmission fluid, which definitely caused the issue. So let's go back to December 26th. Check engine light came on, and I assumed it was for the oil (which has never happened before, suspicious). So I changed the oil, and took it for a test spin. Well, a mile later, I was going up a hill, and the clutch started slipping. Yes, I know, it's an auto, but I know the feeling of a clutch slipping... no power, engine revving up, jolting forward when slip stops. At this point, I drive it home without much incident, a few slips and I part it but don't drive it again. Checked the engine, and transmission fluid was out. Filled it back up, seemed to take care of the problem of slipping, but now there's a new problem...
The new problem is the following. Every once in a while, going uphill or applying full power in first gear, the clutch will slip. Also, this happens 99% of the time, first gear to second gear is a bit of a jolt, not much more than normal, but it's noticeable. And the transmission is kind of loud too, first gear sometimes sounds like there's a marble in there. Is this a rebuild? Will it work itself out?
View 3 Replies
I was towing my 20' boat and had a 4000 lb camper on back going up a grade in 85-90 degree heat when the tranny started dumping fluid. Got to the top and let it rest for 2-3 hours and refilled and was fine for the rest of the trip. This happened last summer. Truck is only driven about 1000 miles a year. I believe this is the E40D.
This year it will run smooth until after about 20 miles and then begins slipping in Drive and OD. Seems to work fine in 1 and 2. It shifts very hard and runs higher rpms before doing so. Slipping then seems to be sporadic and may not slip for quite awhile but it still shifts very hard.
View 5 Replies
I know my clutch is not going to last forever and I do think Ive gotten my share of use out of it but i want to know if there is a way i can determine just how much more life there may or may not be. Although I have not looked into it yet, Ive just learned to read these awesome forums before jumping to conclusions.
I have a 2000 f150 4.2 v6 with about 180.000 miles and i am starting to lose my pedal, not much left anymore. I think. Am I able to see the clutch plate via the inspection cover?( i know stupid question). if so , what do I look for.
View 3 Replies
My wife has a 95 chrysler town and country. We got it used. Six months and after we got the transmission started slipping around 30 or 35 mph. It was like the van would just go into neutral, take your foot off the gas and it would work properly when the gas was reapplied. I took it to two tranny shops. Both said there was nothing to do but wait for it to die. Four years and 25000 miles later it is still running. while the slipping problems seems to have stopped, it developed a new quirk. Every 4 or 5 months when entering a freeway, it will not shift into overdrive. Hence 5000 rpm at 55 mph. I'll exit the freeway. Get to a safe spot. Turn the car off and restart, the problem will be gone and if i drive on the freeway it will shift normally. It has a few other issues ac, struts etc. If the tranny is going out why fix these things? On the other hand if there is still life in it, maintaining is cheaper than replacing..
View 3 Replies
My son changed the oil in our 97 Lexus. (It has about 185K miles) The transmission started slipping same day.
View 3 Replies
My 1997 Hyundai Elantra's Auto transmission started slipping. I changed filter and fluid and found that 2 bolts had fallen from filter and the remaining 2 bolts were loose. It will not go in reverse and only drives without slipping much when Over Drive is turned OFF. Do you think Transmission is shot?
View 9 Replies
I have a 1999 Passat Sedan, V6 with automatic transmission, 62K miles. The Transmission has started slipping from 1st > 2nd, particularly up hills. Took it to my local mechanic who referred me to the AAMCO next door. They changed out the fluid and filter. No luck; still slipping. They want to do a transmission repair (soft parts) for $1650 with a 12-month warranty. For what it's worth, the TCU was replaced last spring (sunroof drain clog > flood > destroyed TCU and a lot more). Everything was working OK this spring after the repairs.
View 10 Replies
So I took my car in for the recall last night and also told my service advisor that my transmission has been a bit jerky lately. Kind of felt like the clutch was slipping when you start going from dead stop, and clunk here, clunk there.
After their diagnostics it seems to be the Mechatronics unit, apparently about 50% of our cars had the issue. The part would have to be ordered from VW due to it being made per VIN and is on back order. They didn't have the reacall parts in stock so I had to leave my car there. Stuck in a bright red Jetta now.
View 24 Replies
I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2002 Camry i4 with 158k miles. The transmission on it suddenly started slipping one day last week. My wife drove it in the morning and came back to say it was slipping and lurching a bit. I drove it in the afternoon around the block a few times to check it out, all normal. In the evening, wife took it out again and it dies 3 miles out. When I showed up, I was able to get it crawling at 5-10mph, but the engine was at near redline. So definitely slipping. Got it towed back home. The next morning, I back it out of the driveway and then up the driveway again just to see, and it seems fine.
This leads me to believe the issues is only when the transmission is warm. Transmission fluid is at a normal level. Dark red and smells bad, so due for a change. Is it too late to save the transmission?
Over the weekend, I drained and filled the transmission fluid with new T-IV (not a complete flush) to see. Drove it around the block a few times and no slipping, but I can hear a faint hum/whine, similar to when in reverse gear but softer. I can't say for sure if anything improved, I would have to drive it til warm to reproduce last week's conditions. I was too nervous that it'll die completely again and I'd have to push it home. The hum was enough for me to say, yes something is still wrong.
I called local mechanics to get quotes and advice. The ones that work on transmissions say a rebuild is required at a cost of $2000. Others say replace the transmission with used (new would be too expensive). Waiting for quotes on that. One guy suggested that the transmission computer would've failed to cause transmission to fail, so rebuild of both the computer and transmission is necessary. Does that make sense? Seems questionable to me.
What indication is it that the transmission would only slip when warm? Is rebuild or new transmission really my only option?
View 5 Replies
My transmission has started slipping as car shifts into 2 and sometimes 3rd gear. It races and is not engaged, so there is no power for the few seconds (sometimes longer) when this happens. Car has about 216,000 miles - and it's time to also replace tires. As I look at the estimated bill, I'm having to decide if it's still a good investment to do the work on the car. I love the car and there is no rust or other problems.
View 7 Replies
We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2006 GMC Yukon XL and its transmission started slipping at just under 60K miles. My local repair shop (who I trust) suggested a transmission shop that they work with a lot. Since I tow a trailer with the vehicle it seems reasonable enough to go with their suggestion to rebuild the transmission using upgraded “heavy duty” components and install a transmission cooler, which I had them do. If you are interested in seeing what they installed, I have uploaded the repair tag at [URL] ....
Right after we got the car back we took the trailer on a trip and very soon the “Transmission Hot” warning light came on. I happened to be driving very close to the transmission shop at that time so I stopped by and they replaced the transmission fluid with synthetic fluid and said that would remedy the situation. However, very shortly after leaving the shop the warning light came on again. At the time I asked the owner of the shop if the heavy duty transmission might just run hotter than the original and he told me that it should not. Well, I brought it back in and he disassembled and reassembled the transmission and even moved the placement of the transmission cooler but, long story short, the transmission hot light still comes on.
Then he changed his tune told me that the heavy duty transmission should run hotter, contrary to what he told me originally. He went on to tell me that there was no way to adjust the temperature sensor that controls the warming light so he convinced me to install a supplemental temperature gauge for the transmission. He said that the sensor was set at the factory to trigger at 180 degrees and that the transmission was likely just running a few degrees over that. So, we made a deal that he would install the gauge and if the transmission temperature stayed below 190, which he said was a safe number, then I would pay for the gauge, but if the transmission ran over 190 degrees, he would cover the cost because that would indicate that there was probably something wrong with the transmission.
He did the work but now he has once again changed his tune and is telling me that it is no problem for the transmission temperature to run as high as 250, which is 60 degrees higher than what he told me originally. So, the question is,
1) should a heavy duty transmission with a cooler run at a higher temperature than standard transmission and
2) how hot is too hot for it to run?
View 19 Replies
