Ford Transmission :: 4r44e - No Reverse After Changing Rear Spark Plug On Passenger Side
Nov 28, 2013
After changing the rear spark plug on the passenger side of my wife's truck ,the reverse went out. Its a 2000 4x4 ranger with a 3.0, and I think the 4r44e trans. Any way she said the check engine light came on and it was running rough. I determined that it had a bad plug changed it and she ran fine. I put her in reverse to see if the motor was still stumbling.
I could her the trans shift to reverse and the motor stayed running smoothly. When I took my foot off of the brake she was barely moving, like it was in 4 low. I stopped to see if there was a vac line that might have been pulled off , or any wires unplugged. Nothing. I started her up and put into reverse. no sound no anything it was the same for neutral. you cant hear any click nothing. I drove her and the forward gears are fine od works drive to 2nd has a engine brake feel. and 2nd to 1st has a engine brake feel.
I have never had a issue with this truck till I changed the spark plug. I think that it is a coincidence that that happened or I unplugged something. Any other way before I pull the pan off.
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I own a v10 and am getting ready to assist a buddy out with his 05 5.4l. He wants me to change the spark plugs out. I have changed the spark plugs on my 04 v10. I think this is the year for went to the 2 piece spark plugs. Also what torq setting should I torq them to? Should I also use anti seize with them or no? Does the gap need to be set on the plugs? I dont have a book to go buy.
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The passenger side rear plug was rusty. I noticed a small loss of anti-freeze during the past year also. Could this be a lower intake gasket? Have not noticed any anti-freeze in the oil nor any exterior engine leaks.
I recently drove it for 150 miles. Sometimes after start it would miss, other times not. Looking for the type of diagnostic to be done.
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Had the plastic under belly off my car to install the HPA puck, and I noticed a coating of oil on the oil pan around the rear passenger side as well as at the drain plug. The car is getting a new pan and plug under warranty, just wanted to give everyone a heads up. My car is lowered, but i have never bottomed it out. As long as your are under warranty its worth taking a look at. You might as well get the passat subframe bolts to get rid of the subframe clunking at the same time.
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Have a 99 ranger 3.0 4x4. No forward unless put in low range and higher rpm to get to go forward, reverse is fine, fluid looks and smells fine.
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So, last weekend the GF said she had been hearing a tick in her 2006 4L Ranger. I crawl up under it and see the right rear spark plug and wire vibrating and could tell it was loose. I jack it up, take the right front tire off, pull the liner back, and finally get a socket on the plug to tighten it. I tighten it by hand first the then the finale snug down with the ratchet.
I notice it snugged up but I just felt it was trying to slip so I stopped. Well, it lasted two days and now has fallen out again. It appears the head is stripped. I am going to pull the plug out tonight and see if I can see where the threads are stripped. I assume I will find material on the threads of the plug.
My question is, is there anyway for me to make a temp fix till there is time to pull the head and repair it properly? I saw NAPA used to have a kit for the Triton engine but when I went to their web site I couldn't even find that anymore.
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I removed all the spark plug wires for testing/cleaning and install new spark plugs, but stupidly forgot to mark the wires where they came off at the Coil Pack. yes, Now I cannot find a diagram for the Driver's Side wire positions at the Coil Pack.
(The Passenger side wires are 1-2-3, starting from the front of the engine, simple enough); The Coil pack itself has numbers stamped on it, so I have the Passenger side done correctly.
But the Driver's Side wires are not in a Sequence of 4-5-6, instead they are 4-6-5 (or something like that), and I can't remember their positions at the Coil Pack. Looking for a drawing showing the Driver's side Wires as they connect to the Coil pack?
Example:
Front Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (Front, Center, or Rear?)
Center Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (F, C, or R?)
Rear Driver's side plug wire connects to which coil pack position? (F, C, or R?)
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2000 Ranger 4R44e transmission.Hard shift from 2-3 gear and when i run about 35-40 mph and brake then acelerate it downshifts hard . Whats wrong with it?
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Ok I've got this 98 Ranger with the 2.5L and the 4r44e automatic. The engine is used and has about 100,000 miles now and is it a good state of tune - so I think. The transmission was a remanufactured I bought a few years ago that was built with the shift improver kit, Kevlar bands, extra planetaries, 4wd pan, and external cooler. It's now got 92,000 miles on it and it's been serviced every 30,000 with a fresh 4wd filter and Mercon V fluid. It's outlasted the last 3 transmission I've had in my Ranger. I've got 315,000 miles on the body. For awhile it was randomly losing power while driving like it wouldn't shift, almost like it dropped a couple cylinders, then as you kept your foot on the gas it would recover and rev up and shift.
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Reverse into my garage up my slight incline of a drive does same. Slip rev....slip rev... No gear noises.
Tried to check fluid level...(that's what it sounded like to me) but sealed system.
Taking it in for warranty check/work.
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2nd, high idling. Around 2000rpm's. I am guessing its because of the right side not working for smoother idling?
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2007, 6.2l Yukon Denali ... Last week I had to change the headlight lamp on the passenger side. I had to remove the air filter box to get at the darned thing. I put everything back together and everything seemed to be working just fine. Except for one little detail, the gas mileage dropped from 15 to 16 mpg to about 13 to 14 mpg. This doesn't sound like much, but, when I towed our travel trailer the mileage dropped to 9 mpg (from around 13mpg before I touched anything). What I might have done to create this situation???
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We just replaced the #5 injector. Went to take for a test drive and the 4 glow plug caps on passenger side popped off and leaking oil while driving. Pushed them back on and they popped off again. They shouldn't be under pressure should they.
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My 2002 Prius went through a car wash recently, and every since water has been dripping into the passanger side of the car. The water is from the air conditioning condensor and also, I believe, from rain. I believe the drainage hose is clogged... but can't find it. Can you tell me how I resolve this problem? By the way, my Prius has 215 k miles and is going strong.
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