Ford Transmission :: 4r100 Won't Shift Replaced Valve Body
Aug 23, 2015
I recently purchased a 2000 Expy 5.4 with AWD. The issue is when in Drive it is only in 1st. I can manually shift it to 2nd. If I get it up to 40 and shift it back to drive it just reeves if I am going 30 and do that it throws it back in 1st.
So I searched a lot of the forums, I asked the previous owner some questions. Been 80 to 90k since the last tranny fluid change. Said he tighten the shift cable when it first noticed it was not shifting right and then it started to shift hard (squeal the tires). I ordered a rebuilt valve body assembly, came with plate, solenoid, accumulator and valve body. The supplier indicated this was the fix for my symptoms.
I dropped the pan. A bolt from the solenoid was in the pan. No magnet. The oil smelled more like axle grease, but did not really see signs of metal sludge in the pan or filter. Dropped all the components, yeah that accumulator plate is not for the faint of heart, I found all the rubber fortunately.
I found a couple decent pictures showing where they go in the tranny, the plate pictures were missing to many of the 'other' holes to use that as a guide. I saw a comment to use petroleum jelly to hold in place, I used that trick and it seemed to work. Put everything back together, torqued all the valve body nuts and bolts to 8 ft lbs, figure that is approx. 96 inch lbs and in the 80 -100 recommendation, new filter. Added 8 qts of oil back into the pan.
With it still on the stands started it up and went thru the gears down and up stopping in each one. Set it down and went for a test drive. Same exact behavior. Drive is first, can manually upshift to 2nd, put back in Drive at a slow speed and it goes to first, at a high speed it acts like it is in neutral. What I missed, do I have a clutch problem, or ?????
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I just finished replacing the Valve body gasket in my 99 ranger with the 4.0 liter v6 with the 5r55e trans. My problem now is that I have no gears i can shift it but the gears do not engage.. I did install the updated bonded separator plate and the tsb for the blow off valve with it.
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Looking for a pic or diagram or able to explain it well, of how the valve body engages the shift linkage/kickdown on a c6. I need a pic of the actual valve body itself and how it engages INSIDE the pan NOT externally.
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I have a e99 7.3. had the transmission rebuilt a couple weeks ago by a local shop. have been getting some hard shifts between 2nd/3rd when lightly accelerating. Took it back already but they couldn't find anything. I am planning on taking it back again but what it is so it gets fixed right. What is causing this or what it might be? Should I be worried about having this shop try and fix this?
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I've been getting a really "rough" gear shift between first and second, almost like someone hit my car from behind. All other gears are super smooth though. No error's on VAG COM or anything. I'm just a bit confused if an error's are thrown or is it something the dealer needs to identify?
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I bought it 4 years ago with 205K, swapped trans fluid.. 10k miles later (I don't drive it a lot ). I am throwing the code P0750 Shift A malfunction.. i figured id swap the solenoid pack since I am pretty handy and it was affordable.. but it didn't seem to do the trick.. it drove around the block good for 5 minutes before it started shifting weird and throwing a code again.. almost seems to be slipping... I still have to check fluid level again and scan the code again but any suggestions? I have an apt to go to the tranny shop this week and would like to avoid the big bucks if possible.
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Problems with my 2001 F250 4r100 transmission. Transmission will only shift to 2nd gear when throttle is feathered at @2500 rpm. All other gears shift perfectly. This problem is consistent.
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I have a 4r100 on in a 99 7.3 4x4. The shifting problem I have appears to be intermittant. it seems loose after warm up especially at the 4th shift overdrive and passing gear. possibly due to low presures ? sometimes (lately more often than not) hunts back and forth between 4th and o.d when passing or hill climbing. Under normal driving it shifts somewhat firm with 4th being an exeption.I have changed my crank position sensor filters and fluids which had turned dark and improved slightly. When I pulled the pan and replaced the filter the pan was spotless. No residue or signs of plates or debris. There is about 100,000 miles on the tranny and 350,000 on the truck. Questions: Is there a tcm for this transmission and if so could it cause these problems? I'm considering a purchase of an unlocked 1705 superchip to change the shifting but unsure if this will work for my issues...
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I started my Subbie and all the lights just start going crazy on my dash. So I pulled of the road and started freaking out, Never had a hint of a problem. So I pulled in AutoZone and they ran the codes and now I'm being told I have to replace the brain to my transmission WTH? I don't own a DODGE!!! Had 3 different dodges and the tranny went on all. So I wont own one because of transmission problems. Now my Subaru has been parked since it can only get worse. Is this normal? All the error codes are...
P0700 Transaxle Control System (MIL Request)
P2762 Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Range/Performance
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Replaced Troque Converter, Truck runs engine runs fine transmission won't shift out of 1st gear.
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I have a 98 camry with code p0755 - shift solenoid valve#2 malfunction.-What are some of the most common causes. How to test it ,the issues that cause this and what to do also after replacing it if bad? Also are these to be replaced in pairs with both 1st -2nd shift and 2nd to 3rd shift .
If I have high miles on it will adding the 2 -3 quarts of new fluid give me issues as to mixing with the old and part breaking up in transmission(I've heard a lot happens when u replace very old fluid with new or flush it fully)..will be replacing filter also but not the rest of fluid still in transmission at this time. Looking for a link a pic. of the exact location on transmission inside pan .of it(looks similar to other shift solenoid near it )...
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Iv heard a few things about changing the valve body. I tow a trailer so was wondering on pros and cons of changing this. And also what brands are recommended.
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The other day I was driving i was driving down the road when suddenly my truck wouldn't shift out of first gear, then the truck died and the motor wont turn over either. Acts like it is locked up. Its an 01 with v10 and 4r100.
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I have an 04 Excursion v10 with 170K on odometer. I am having trouble with transmission shifting into 3rd. When I take off it shifts fine to 2nd, but it will not go into 3rd as it should. I can back off throttle and re accelerate a couple of times and then it will shift fine all day long. The OD light is not blinking but I did scan for codes and there is a soft code P1741 - there is no light on dash illuminated. Just wondering if this sounds like a valve body problem or shift solenoid. I am out of town and can't ohm test solenoids til I get home.
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Had my trans rebuilt in August because of a lagging reverse and loss of shift pressure. Had it rebuilt and beefed up a little and I've had problems getting the trans to be like it was new and seven years ago. I had enough of my head gasket oil leak and loosing my job recently so I bought a trans pressure kit and hooked it up today, all I can say is I now have another problem to get corrected. I'll list my pressures and I took videos so I'll upload them to YouTube and link it that way.
Park - 85psi
oem - 50-65psi
R - 25psi start then slowly rises to 60psi
oem - 70-100psi
N - 85psi
oem - 50-65psi
D - 82psi
oem - 50-65psi
2 - 20psi then slow to 80psi
oem - 50-65psi
1 - 50psi then slow to 100psi
oem - 70-100psi
My WOT pressure at 1-2 and then 2-3 shift is 170psi, I cannot find OEM spec online yet but I believe I was told it should be over 200psi....
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I have an 01 f250 with a 4r100. Trans has not been slipping at all and yesterday it started a rough shift between 1st and 2nd. (3-4K Rpms) At the same time 4th gear stopped engaging. Shifts out of 3rd but does not go into 4th. I can hit my od button and it will shift back into 3rd and start pulling. Still no slipping just doesn't want to change 1-2 or engage 4th. I have done a full trans fluid change including new filter and tc. Old fluid looked fine with no metal flakes or garbage in it. So all new fluid still same problem. I was thinking of changing my shift solenoid.
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My 4R100 transmission just went out in my 2001 X with a 6.8 Triton in it. I am wondering if a transmission from a 5.4 is the same exact thing since it is more common.
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I have 2001 E350 Van. One quirk.... When I put the van in Reverse, the engine drops to very low RPM and nearly stalls. This does not happen in Drive.
Transmission is out for repair now for other reasons (for a damaged pump). What can cause this near stalling? What do I look for as far as cause & repair?
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I rebuilt my 4r100 myself. 1st time I re-installed it, I had no 2nd gear. All other gears worked fine. Drove it less than 2 miles.. slowly..
Took it back out, found i built the Intermediate Clutch wrong. Fixed. At the same time, found a stuck valve in the accumulator VB, Fixed that, at least i think I did. all the valves snapped back under spring pressure.
Put the trans back in, Drove forward, all forward gears work. Drove 10 miles normally, w/ some time spent in all speed ranges. Temps good, outside temp was 73F
M1 = i get good engagement and engine braking
M2 = I get 1st and 2nd, seems normal
OD = Normal shifts, 4th is a little soft, but always was.. TCC lockup good
OD (Cancelled) = Normal 1-2-3, with lockup in 3rd Worked the button multiple times, shifts down, and back up normally.
N = No movement, no creeping.. Normal.. as far as I can tell.
R = No reverse, or is binding in reverse, not sure. worse when up to temp.
P = Normal, no learching or creeping.. No stalling.
The OD light never blinked, so I don't think it is electronic..
Since M1 works and holds with engine braking. L/R clutch and seals are ok. Forward clutch is ok since i have ALL forward gears, No slipping that I can tell. no creeping in Neutral, so the clutches are not fried.. New fluid is still perfect. I'll have to re-pull the pan to see if there is anything on the magnet. I think it could be some stuck valves in the VB also.
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I am trying to install the pump back into my 4R100 after changing the seals in the pump. When I try to push the pump into its location in the transmission, it will not go in all the way. It is about 3/8" out too far. Shouldn't it bottom out where the paper gasket goes at the rear of the pump without torquing down the bolts? When the pump is out, if I look at the coast clutch, it is not even level with the housing where the pump should bottom out to. It sticks up about 1/16". Add that together with the part of the pump assembly that sticks out in the back and I get about 3/8" total which is how much the whole pump assembly is from bottoming out. I took out the coast clutch assembly and did not see anything binding. It felt like it bottomed out where it should. It felt like it was seated correctly.
I don't want to just torque everything down and ruin something. Is the coast clutch supposed to compress some during assembly/installation of the pump? If so, would I expect it to compress about 3/8"? Also, I can turn the input shaft freely when the pump is out. Under 'normal' circumstances, if it was put together correctly, should I still be able to turn the input shaft by hand, or is there too much resistance with all of the clutches and everything?
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About, one month ago my car shut off while driving(pretty scary at the time). I pulled of the road and attempted to start it again. Everything looked good there, but as I was making my way home from work it started to act funny. It would not acknowledge me depressing the accelerator. When I got home, I ate supper, then went to have a look.
The car would turn on, but not acknowledge me pressing the accelerator at all, It did however go up to 30 mph at a snails pace as if it was coasting down a hill. I plugged in my code reader, and it read that the Throttle Body Valve was stuck open. I took it off and tore into to it a bit. I noticed the gears inside the TB itself were corroded and the butterfly valve was locked up.
I replaced the part, and tried to turn my car on with the new TB. All the dash lights are in working order, however upon turning the ignition to crank the engine, the whole car system shuts down. No lights no nothing, besides the car door open sound. The car will remain like this regardless of the key position until I have reset the batter(take off the terminals and put them back on) to which the process repeats itself.
The code reader says no codes are stored because I obviously reset the battery. So now am at a standstill.I believe the old TB froze up, because I had to run in through 3 ft standing water during a storm, and then deployed shortly after(I'm in the service) for a few months while letting the car sit.
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