Ford Transmission :: 4r100 - Rattle Noise In Park And Neutral
Apr 20, 2017
I've got a 2001 E350 van with the 5.4 triton and 4R100 transmission in it. Has about 130,000 miles on it. I was doing some work under it a couple of days ago and noticed a rattling noise coming from the front of the bell housing. I can't hear it sitting in the vehicle or standing next to it but it's pretty scary sounding with my face under the inspection cover.
Shifting is smooth no noticeable problems there. Tranny fluid looks good, not burnt. After further investigation the noise is only present in park or neutral. In drive it goes away. In park it takes a few minutes of warm up for it to begin starting as a light tap tap, eventually working its way up to a clatter once warm. I know the 99 4r100 had some TC issues that sounded like this. It sounds like it's in front of the TC so I'm thinking the flex plate maybe?
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My Dad has a 01 f150 xtended cab 5.4 auto. Some of this info is second hand. He had driven it on a trip about 50 miles,when he started it to return he said it did not want to engage, put it in gear and nothing happened. Messed with it a bit and got it to go. was fine for about 30 miles or so. Then it started to make noise. I trailered it home and drove it a couple hundred yards to the shop. It sounds like a very large, very dry bearing, also seemed to catch/lock up then clunk.
With the wheels off the ground you can kick it into neutral and while the wheels are still rolling it quiets down. Also it does it sometimes while in neutral. When it is in park it sounds like stuff is still turning. At fist I thought wheel bearing or rear end until it made noise in neutral and park. The noise in park is not loud, just sounds like things are turning. It is full of fluid. The tranny has always worked flawlessly and still does even with the noise. Where to start looking? Transfer case?
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I have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.
When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.
I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.
Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.
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I have the 4r100 transmission how do I bypass the safety switch? Also what are your thoughts on starting the engine with the transmission out? I know to bolt the spacer plate to the engine.
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Looking for your collective expertise
2007 E350 with 5.4L and 4R70W trans. 107K miles and the fluid has probably never been changed ( my mistake - thought it was 100K interval - finding out from my reading that is def not true ). Anyway, following is recent development (last couple days):
Symptom #1: In Park/Neutral there is a whine. As soon as you put it in P or N, the whine 'spins up', stabilizes, and does increase with engine RPM.
Symptom #2: Hesitation (albeit minor) when starting from stop in D and R, with _very_ minor shudder. Sometimes feels like it's struggling a bit to move its own weight just until it's rolling.
Symptom #3: Shudder when accelerating in OD. No shudder when I turn off OD. It does not stop when applying brakes (a test suggested elsewhere). Also, the shudder does not happen when applying gas while braked in D at standstill. Only at highway speeds (enough to be in OD).
This all started at the end of a trip (90 miles or so in 85-90 degrees) when I was pulling a utility trailer (maybe 2000 lbs loaded). Not sure if related, but traction control warning went off a couple times. I think I have a axle seal leak that may be triggering that.
Otherwise shifts fine (no change in shift behavior or smoothness). Things seem to be worse when it has heated up. Should I start with a fluid change? Wasn't sure because there are comments out there saying don't do it or the tranny will just fail faster (I am skeptical).
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I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
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A few days ago, I was trying to back up with my 5th wheel (12,000lbs) and in reverse the transmission was shuddering combined with a noise. So I stopped and since than, the reverse is shuddering when I accelerate.
If I put it in reverse and let it in idle, everything is fine. The forward gears without problem.
Temperature always between 140 and 160, never overheated.
F350 Dually Crew cab, 7.3, 1999, 215,000 km, superchip,
Never overdone it with the power. Fluid level ok, no burned smell at the fluid, still red in color.
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My 2011 Hatchback automatic has developed a whine in park, neutral and drive. ATF fluid level ok and changed by dealer every 25,000 miles. Seems to be coming from under the car. Could it be the transmission oil pump? If so, does it mean removing transmission to replace? I don't think it's the fuel pump. 62,000 miles.
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This is on my 99 v10 Superduty. What I'm hearing sounds like high pressure fluid passing through a restriction. I only hear it when in drive or reverse while sitting still. The noise goes away once I get moving a couple of miles per hour. It just started making this noise within the last week.
I change the fluid every other oil change (about 6000mi on the last change) and am using M1 Synth in it. I only drive 10min between work and home so it probably barely gets warm. I don't know yet if it there hot. I'll have take it up the hill and back to see if it is temperature related.
Other then the noise it still drives and shifts fine. But it is pretty loud sitting at the drive through window. I'm going to drain it and change the filter this weekend and see how the fluid looks. Any thing else I should look at or other possibilities? I crawled under it last night and I think the noise is coming from the TC.
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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Getting a loud rattling noise from the front of car in Park or Neutral? As soon as I put the car in D/M. I have heard that the transmission is noisy in neutral, but just want to double check.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe and there is a loud grinding sound when the car is in park and neutral. This noise doesn't happen all the time but i would say 50% of the time. When there is the noise it does go away when i put the car into drive or reverse.
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I have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
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I just recently picked up a 87 F250 with a 6.9 and a ZF5 trans. The PO replaced the clutch, and mentioned that he replaced the clutch fork too
Since I bought the truck, I've had some nasty rattling noises. It rattles when in neutral, and stops when I put the clutch in. The noise also comes back on occasion when decelerating at highway speeds, in 2nd as soon as I stop accelerating, and at low speeds in 3rd.
What is causing this?
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I have an 04 Excursion v10 with 170K on odometer. I am having trouble with transmission shifting into 3rd. When I take off it shifts fine to 2nd, but it will not go into 3rd as it should. I can back off throttle and re accelerate a couple of times and then it will shift fine all day long. The OD light is not blinking but I did scan for codes and there is a soft code P1741 - there is no light on dash illuminated. Just wondering if this sounds like a valve body problem or shift solenoid. I am out of town and can't ohm test solenoids til I get home.
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My 4R100 transmission just went out in my 2001 X with a 6.8 Triton in it. I am wondering if a transmission from a 5.4 is the same exact thing since it is more common.
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I have 2001 E350 Van. One quirk.... When I put the van in Reverse, the engine drops to very low RPM and nearly stalls. This does not happen in Drive.
Transmission is out for repair now for other reasons (for a damaged pump). What can cause this near stalling? What do I look for as far as cause & repair?
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I rebuilt my 4r100 myself. 1st time I re-installed it, I had no 2nd gear. All other gears worked fine. Drove it less than 2 miles.. slowly..
Took it back out, found i built the Intermediate Clutch wrong. Fixed. At the same time, found a stuck valve in the accumulator VB, Fixed that, at least i think I did. all the valves snapped back under spring pressure.
Put the trans back in, Drove forward, all forward gears work. Drove 10 miles normally, w/ some time spent in all speed ranges. Temps good, outside temp was 73F
M1 = i get good engagement and engine braking
M2 = I get 1st and 2nd, seems normal
OD = Normal shifts, 4th is a little soft, but always was.. TCC lockup good
OD (Cancelled) = Normal 1-2-3, with lockup in 3rd Worked the button multiple times, shifts down, and back up normally.
N = No movement, no creeping.. Normal.. as far as I can tell.
R = No reverse, or is binding in reverse, not sure. worse when up to temp.
P = Normal, no learching or creeping.. No stalling.
The OD light never blinked, so I don't think it is electronic..
Since M1 works and holds with engine braking. L/R clutch and seals are ok. Forward clutch is ok since i have ALL forward gears, No slipping that I can tell. no creeping in Neutral, so the clutches are not fried.. New fluid is still perfect. I'll have to re-pull the pan to see if there is anything on the magnet. I think it could be some stuck valves in the VB also.
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I am trying to install the pump back into my 4R100 after changing the seals in the pump. When I try to push the pump into its location in the transmission, it will not go in all the way. It is about 3/8" out too far. Shouldn't it bottom out where the paper gasket goes at the rear of the pump without torquing down the bolts? When the pump is out, if I look at the coast clutch, it is not even level with the housing where the pump should bottom out to. It sticks up about 1/16". Add that together with the part of the pump assembly that sticks out in the back and I get about 3/8" total which is how much the whole pump assembly is from bottoming out. I took out the coast clutch assembly and did not see anything binding. It felt like it bottomed out where it should. It felt like it was seated correctly.
I don't want to just torque everything down and ruin something. Is the coast clutch supposed to compress some during assembly/installation of the pump? If so, would I expect it to compress about 3/8"? Also, I can turn the input shaft freely when the pump is out. Under 'normal' circumstances, if it was put together correctly, should I still be able to turn the input shaft by hand, or is there too much resistance with all of the clutches and everything?
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How to install a temperature gauge for the 4R100 transmission in my 1998E350 w/ V10 engine Van? what's the normal temperature for this transmission?
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A friend just bought a 99 Navigator, with what wikipedia says is the 4R100. Previous owner allegedly rebuilt the trans but used the old converter
It was apparently slipping a bit, or something, when he got it. Then on the way to my place so I can drive it and see what I think, it started making nasty grinding noises once he hit 4th gear. He got off the highway and made it to my place just fine.
Put it reverse to turn around in my driveway and it started the grinding noises again. Forward gears initially had some grinding as well after that, with no forward motion. Now there's no grinding, and the engine free revs in any forward/reverse gear
Fluid is full, still red, but smells nasty.
I don't suppose the three feed bolts above the valve body being loose would cause this? I imagine he's looking at a rebuild, which neither of us really want to do.
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