Ford Transmission :: 4R75E Flair On Downshift?
Aug 5, 2016
Hauled my in-law's pop-up camper across the great state of South Dakota this week and noticed that when downshifting from 4th to 3rd it would occasionally flare a bit on the downshift. it was a real quick 100-200 rpm flare when it did it. it would not always flare, though, so it took me a while to figure out a deciding factor. (I had time, as it was about an 8hr haul with kids). what I finally noticed is that if the trans temp was below 180F, the downshift was solid - no discernible flare. but if the temp got north of 180F, then it would flare a bit and never seem to "learn" it's way out of the flare until the temp dropped below 180 the ambient temp was between 95-104 on the trip, and the trans seemed to run between about 170-190 depending on how hilly the terrain was. it didn't downshift a lot. I could pull most of the hills in OD, even if it had to unlock the converter. is this a sign of anything?
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The subject: F150, 2007, 5.4L, FX4 version. It has only 80K miles and was very light used by my sister. It seems to me come with a 4R75E ....
Recently I notice a strange vibration every time tranny downshift from 4 to 3, specially noticeable going uphill. Some times can be feel when tranny shift from 3 to 4th...
A friend in my town comment to us, this is a very common condition here because there are just small streets and avenues so that truck shift very frequently betwen 4 to 3 and then back to 4th...
Sounds like a excessive wear on a bearing thrust ??
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2006 f150 4x4 4R75E trans slipping in forward gears, reverse is ok. I dropped pan and it was clean. I dropped valve body and found OD servo shaft clip broken, the large snapring was I fine and in place. It allowed the inner shaft to float up and down. Would this cause my forward gears to slip or do I have a bigger problem?
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I have the 4r75e transmission. Last week I was driving for about 20-30 mins when my transmission fluid started to boiled and came out the dipstick tube. I let it cool off then took my time and drove it home. I know my transmission is not shot because I am getting full power on the transmission. After I got home I checked the fluid level and it's good, then I disconnect the transmission fluid lines on the transmission to see if I am having flow, but no luck...
I took my air hose and blew the lines out and they were clear. I also blew into the transmission thru the ports where the lines were connected. I started the truck up and the fluid came out with full force about 1-2qarts came out before I shut the truck off. I was all excited and I connected all the lines And started the truck to go for a test drive but my gut told me to disconnect the line to see if I am still having a flow and as suspected no flow...
I took off the lines that connected to the transmission and still no flow. I blew the air into the transmission again and started the truck up and bam I have flow again for about 20 seconds... I shut the truck off and I decided to connected the lines back to the transmission and I disconnected the lines about 12" away from the transmission to put a clear hose that connected both lines to make a loop.
Started the truck and there was no flow, I disconnected the 5/8 nut on the transmission and blew the air into the transmission. Started the truck and only got a few dribbles. I check the fluid level and it's still good. I am stuck and don't know what to do... What part of the transmission send the hot fluid out to the cool. The valve body? The main pump? The solenoid???
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I just bought a 2010 F-150 with 60,000 miles. I have noticed that as I slow to a stop the transmission feels like it doesn't down shift. The RPM stays at 1000 and only drops to about 550 rpm when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Feels like the brakes are fighting the engine to stop the vehicle.
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I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
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My 93' Ranger XLT extra cab 2wd, 4.0 engine and A4LD auto tranny with 126,600 miles has a rough downshift into 2nd gear about 15 or 16 mph. Down shift to 1st is real smooth and upshifting thru the gears is smooth. I just put a new modulator valve on it and upshifts smooth out, they were getting to be hard shifts before changing that valve. I do not know if there is any adjustment that can be made to smooth out the rough downshift when slowing down to a stop for red light. The U-joins are in good shape and new carrier bearing assembly on driveshaft and no extra play in the rear end. A band adjustment maybe or just have to live with it.
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I have an 2011 6.7 that has a h&s tuner. Lately my transmission seems to be confused about what gear it should be in when I'm driving about 45mph. It will sometime downshift hard. I have a early build 2011 and heard that it could be a solenoid problem with the transmission.
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I have a 1998 C class RV that the downshift from overdrive is sloppy and slow when the button is pressed to release the OD or to put it back into overdrive mode. It seems to pause and then kick in or out of OD. Is this a common problem with E4OD transmission? What will fix it, fluid change? Solenoid replacement?
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So my 92 4.0 automatic has always been kind of a slug since we've bought it with 101,000 miles on it. It's been tuned properly and fuel pump, filter, and regulator been replaced. It runs pretty good but when you're going highway speed or even like 45-50 and stomp the gas it doesn't feel as if it's downshifting. The transmission looks like it may have been replaced or maintained, it shifts good, pulls good. Fluid is clear and clean, no leaks, no burning. I see that it has a vacuum modulator valve but don't know where it hooks up to. I can barely see it behind my catalytic converter. It will have to be removed to change it for sure. But I'm trying to see where the vacuum line goes from that modulator valve. I see the valve but I didn't really notice a vacuum hose coming off of it but again my view was obstructed by the catalytic converter. Would it cause hesitation problems if it was bad or not even hooked up?
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I have an 2011 6.7 that has a h&s tuner. Lately my transmission seems to be confused about what gear it should be in when I'm driving about 45mph. It will sometime downshift hard. I have a early build 2011 and heard that it could be a solenoid problem with the transmission.
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1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
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I have a 2004 f250 5.4l w 4r100 and it seams to loose its gear or down shift only when i take a hard right turn. I took it to a trans shop and it shows no codes and at this point I am very confused...
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97 f350 5.8L E4OD Transmission. This truck will not downshift when you come to a stop. You must manually shift it all the way through and then it does fine. What is causing this issue? It will kick down into passing gear. What is wrong?
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I have a problem with a bmw 1996 7 series transmission.When I start driving the car all gears shift fine, but when I come to a stop it won't downshift to first gear,i have to put the car in park and then in drive again and it run ok until I come to a stop again.
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2011 Sonata Limited ... I have just under 60k miles and did a tranny drain and refill at 24k and 55k. Just had the brake light switch replaced. For some reason when cruising with the car in overdrive, if I let off the gas to decelerate and ease into the gas again, I get a real hard down shift and shift. So every time I get on the gas again it is either kicking out of overdrive or downshifting and shifting back immediately. 99% of the time it is a hard thump. When I have the cruise set I do not notice this at all. It does it in ECO or out of ECO. This is new and I started noticing this after the brake switch replacement.
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I have been a long time Lexus owner (ES and 3 RXs), but I am new to the GX. I just got a 2014 GX-40 w/ Premium Package.
The GX has a lot of the same features my previous RXs had, but of course has some improvements (smoother ride, quieter, better stereo sound, real 4WD).
1) The RX had a console that had the USB connection in it. I found it very handy to just leave my iPod plugged in there. I just had to switch the Source in the radio whenever wanted to listen to it. Since it was in the console, it was out of sight from thieves. On the GX, my iPod won't fit in the small area where the USB ports are. I don't know if an iPod touch would even fit, and they have much less music storage anyway.
2) The GX obviously weighs more than the RX, and it has a V8 engine. Some portions of the power band in the GX seem to be peppier, but overall, the GX feels a little more sluggish. Sometimes I manually downshift the transmission to pass a vehicle, etc. Are there any other alternatives?
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So the problem is that I have a jerky downshift 3-2 and 2-1 that can be felt by everyone in the car (car pushes forward on downshift) until the car warms up. When the car is warm I can feel it slightly at times and feel a clunk when shifting down 3-2 and 2-1. On up-shifts at times the shifts are shaky from 1-2 and 2-3. I have brought this forward to my dealership as well as another one. They all performed software updates and reset the adaptive learning. However every time I got my vehicle back after this procedure I found the A/C was on full blast. So the initial drive by the tech after the reset was learning while the A/C was on. Would this be causing the weird shifting I experience while the A/C is off. I seem to notice a better shifting when the A/C is on but this may just be me trying to reason why my transmission is behaving this way. I drove other 2015 Sonata's and they have much better shifting than my car and no hard jerks on downshifts.
Both dealers have felt the downshifts and have come back and simply said "We've done all the updates and reset and learning. This may just be a normal characteristic of the car." I told them that a brand new vehicle in this day and age shouldn't be shifting poorly when compared to an older vehicle with 300,000 km (my old Honda Civic which are prone to transmission failures). They responded casually saying you can go and get a second opinion from another dealership if you like. I am furious with their responses and just left it at that. I need to know how to get this resolved and if this is indeed something I should expect from my Sonata.
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Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
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My daughters 2006 Infinity G 35 transmission hesitates to downshift when lugging at 35mph. Is this a trait of this vehicle or a problem with the tranny or anything else?
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This last month I have been noticing that either when I am coming to a stop the transmission down shift hard.... and when moving from a stop it gives two bucks like a standard does when u let the clutch out to fast... so i went into do my oil change and asked them to look at it.... guess what its getting a new tranny..... makes me want to trade it in when i get it fixed....
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