Ford Transmission :: 4R75E - Vibration While Downshift 4 To 3 Specially Noticeable Going Uphill
Sep 7, 2017
The subject: F150, 2007, 5.4L, FX4 version. It has only 80K miles and was very light used by my sister. It seems to me come with a 4R75E ....
Recently I notice a strange vibration every time tranny downshift from 4 to 3, specially noticeable going uphill. Some times can be feel when tranny shift from 3 to 4th...
A friend in my town comment to us, this is a very common condition here because there are just small streets and avenues so that truck shift very frequently betwen 4 to 3 and then back to 4th...
Sounds like a excessive wear on a bearing thrust ??
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Hauled my in-law's pop-up camper across the great state of South Dakota this week and noticed that when downshifting from 4th to 3rd it would occasionally flare a bit on the downshift. it was a real quick 100-200 rpm flare when it did it. it would not always flare, though, so it took me a while to figure out a deciding factor. (I had time, as it was about an 8hr haul with kids). what I finally noticed is that if the trans temp was below 180F, the downshift was solid - no discernible flare. but if the temp got north of 180F, then it would flare a bit and never seem to "learn" it's way out of the flare until the temp dropped below 180 the ambient temp was between 95-104 on the trip, and the trans seemed to run between about 170-190 depending on how hilly the terrain was. it didn't downshift a lot. I could pull most of the hills in OD, even if it had to unlock the converter. is this a sign of anything?
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2006 f150 4x4 4R75E trans slipping in forward gears, reverse is ok. I dropped pan and it was clean. I dropped valve body and found OD servo shaft clip broken, the large snapring was I fine and in place. It allowed the inner shaft to float up and down. Would this cause my forward gears to slip or do I have a bigger problem?
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I have the 4r75e transmission. Last week I was driving for about 20-30 mins when my transmission fluid started to boiled and came out the dipstick tube. I let it cool off then took my time and drove it home. I know my transmission is not shot because I am getting full power on the transmission. After I got home I checked the fluid level and it's good, then I disconnect the transmission fluid lines on the transmission to see if I am having flow, but no luck...
I took my air hose and blew the lines out and they were clear. I also blew into the transmission thru the ports where the lines were connected. I started the truck up and the fluid came out with full force about 1-2qarts came out before I shut the truck off. I was all excited and I connected all the lines And started the truck to go for a test drive but my gut told me to disconnect the line to see if I am still having a flow and as suspected no flow...
I took off the lines that connected to the transmission and still no flow. I blew the air into the transmission again and started the truck up and bam I have flow again for about 20 seconds... I shut the truck off and I decided to connected the lines back to the transmission and I disconnected the lines about 12" away from the transmission to put a clear hose that connected both lines to make a loop.
Started the truck and there was no flow, I disconnected the 5/8 nut on the transmission and blew the air into the transmission. Started the truck and only got a few dribbles. I check the fluid level and it's still good. I am stuck and don't know what to do... What part of the transmission send the hot fluid out to the cool. The valve body? The main pump? The solenoid???
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Have towed or driven Class C MH for years, now have 2014 F150 Ecoboost. Pulls great.
Question: while towing up long incline, engine got hot, shot message through dash saying truck would shift gears to ovoid overheating. I have read I should lock out 5 and 6 on slow steady climbs. If I am in tow mode and want to downshift, how do I do that? I know I can shift entire thing to 2nd gear - but I assume that is not what we are talking about here. On this particular climb it was hot (100 out) and I was blocked in left lane going slower than I would have liked. RPMs were low.
Looking for detailed description of process. I also regularly use Tow/Haul. Sometimes on decline I will downshift to 2nd or 1st and not use brakes at all going down.
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Just recently, my '93 transport 3800 has started making weird sounds when engaging transmission , forward...and specially reverse. This is not a transmission problem. It sounds like there is increased torsional movement of the engine/transmission unit and it made me take a look at the engine while would shift in drive and reverse....it does lean much..impressive ..but in fact I do not remember having tried looking for that before...so I cannot compare.
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I have a 2003 Camry LE with 1MZ engine and U151 5 speed auto trans. 138,000 miles The problem is that the trans makes a very noticeable downshift clunk when stopping.
With light driving you can feel what seems to be a 2-1 downshift just before stopping. With aggressive driving and rapid stop the clunk is felt either when stopping or actually after the wheels stop turning depending on speed and hard braking. If you stop aggressively it actually feels like someone hit you from behind. It literally shakes the car.
TRANS FLUID is full and clean. There is no smell or burnt appearance. The trans tests good in forward and reverse stall tests. Neutral to drive/reverse engagement is also quick and firm.
Here is the fun part. The condition does not exist when cold. After the engine and trans warms up it starts happening. Also, after presenting the condition with a hot trans, I can shift it out of drive and into 3rd and have no problem at all no matter how I drive. To make things more interesting, I can erase the trans learned values with a scan tool and the trans shifts normally for a couple of days before the condition returns.
We are concerned that there may be damage done if this condition continues.
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My 08 3.0 tdi is back in the dealer again, 8 months of ownership and it's been off the road 8 weeks in total now. Started with a warbling whining noise from under the car, that is only noticeable under load up hill in 5th, it worse the steeper the hill and more weight in the car, can also be made to do it on the flat whilst towing my boat.
Dealer initially diagnosed a failed bearing in the gearbox and it was replaced under warranty at 59500mls - lucky escape for me. Unfortunately this did not cure the problem and after months of further inspections and enquries the diff was also replaced - to no affect! Much hand wringing unsued from the embarrassed and fed up dealership and they decide to replace the propshaft - still to no affect
I now have a new problem with the air conditioning - the condenser has corroded through under the paint next to one of the mounting lugs, not what you expect on a vehicle of this quality - this is going to be a substantial bill for something that shouldn't have failed on a vehicle that not even reached it's 3rd birthday!
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Going up hills, I noted the eco lite remained lit during the downshift mandated by cruise control to maintain preset speed. However, during ascent with cruise control off, and slight decrease speed (no downshift) the eco light will go off. Kinda counter intuitive, that slowing down during ascent would be less economical than maintaining set speed during climb.
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I just recently bought an 06 Santa Fe with a 2.7l v6. It was a rebuild. It had been hit in the left wheel. The lot put a new fender, suspension parts, axle, etc. It only has 25k actual miles.
We took it on a 100 mile trip today. I noticed if I am going up hill and it has to downshift, it feels like it looses power. The car continues to slow... Like the tranny is slipping. I stopped at Walmart and found the tranny fluid wouldn't even register on the dipstick. I bought Valvoline max life tranny fluid that matches the sp3 specs in the manual. I had to add almost 3 quarts before it was full. I think they may have forgot to add fluid back to replace what leaked out after they replaced the axle It didn't seem to work though when I continued to drive. After I stopped and let it cool about 30 minutes, it did seem a little better.
I guess my question is should I replace the tranny fluid? If so, what should I replace it with? Is there anything else what could be causing this now?
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Have a 1997 2wd F-150 XLT auto trans with 305,000 miles that has developed at vibration that is most noticeable at 55-60mph. It seems to start at about 35, but at 55 you can feel it in your seat. When it's vibrating shifting into neutral doesn't change anything.
Drive shaft u-joints: two rear replaced not too long ago (5+ years?), front joint by transmission seems to move freely, but isn't excessively sloppy, carrier bearing okay. Have done the following with no improvement:
Re-balanced all tires, no problems noticed during the balance;
Replaced first right and then left rotor and wheel bearings, no change.
Several mechanics have driven it and made different pronouncements, it's not: transmission, rear-end, tires, u-joints or carrier bearing. One mechanic ran it while up on his lift and didn't see a driveshaft balance problem. Last suggestion was that the left wheel bearing were "on their way out", so they were the most recent change. It's drivable, but not fun and it produces a lot of noise in the cab.
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We went to an out of town zoo over the weekend and the exit is going up a short but steep incline. When going up I get this very noticable shutter, vibration coming from underneath but thats the only time it does it. This is the 3rd weekend in a row weve been there and its done it everytime. Is there anything I could check? Normal driving is non issue, and going up this incline were only going like 5 mph or so. Im stumped.
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Just got my 2014 SCREW 6.5bed with eco boost. Truck has a high frequency vibration very noticeable at 45-55 MPH. So bad the rear view mirror is blurry. Took it to the dealer and they said the e-brake was dragging and fixed that and said the vibration was gone. Not gone. Did some searches and found a number people reporting vibration issues possibly related to drive shaft issues.
Took this video of the slip yoke at the T-case idling in first gear, sent it to the dealer and they said that's normal. I don't think that looks normal. Does that looks normal?
Slip Yoke at T-Case ...
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I just purchased my brand new 2014 F150 4x4 STX 5.0L single cab short box about a month ago. I noticed when I drove it off the lot that it had a slight vibration at low RPMs. I boiled it down to brand new stuff working out all the kinks and running around for the first time, bought a brand new jeep in 2005 and it made interesting noises and had funny vibrations for a while, but this is starting to get annoying. I have a very noticeable vibration at low RPMs both in park and while driving, more noticeable at speeds between 35-45 with RPMs anywhere from idle to 1500 or so.
I have not had it at the dealer yet, I want to be armed with a little bit of knowledge when I go in an talk to them if possible. I know how stealerships work and since it seems similar problems are somewhat common in these newer F150s, I don't want to get the "oh it's common in these trucks and perfectly normal". In my opinion a brand new truck should run smoother than melted butter on hot flapjacks, especially one that only has 1400 miles on it.
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I had the ball joints and u joints swapped out in my Ex a week ago and something's been bothering me. I get a vibration when cresting 65mph that I can't pinpoint. It's not violent and it doesn't appear to be in the steering wheels as it's straight and not jerking at all. It doesn't really affect anything that I can tell either... it's not the vibration from out of balance tires or cupped tires, it's just enough to be annoying... and a concern.
I can't tell if it's coming from the front or the rear either... just seems to be a hum that I can feel that wasn't there before the repairs where done. Where to start?
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I've got a 2002 F350 DRW 7.3 truck I'm having a little concern over. It started this summer, when under very heavy pulling I was getting a very noticeable vibration between 20 and 25 mph. I did not think much of it, as it only happened under extreme conditions.
Now I'm getting the vibration all the time, and it's started another band which is 40 to 45 mph. It's much worse if you are very light on the throttle, if you're full throttle it's much harder to notice.
Truck has 154,000 miles.
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My current 08 duty was bought with what I believe to be a procomp 6" lift modified to an 8" lift. The 100 mile drive home after buying the truck showed a tiny "hop" in the rear. I ditched the 37s for some new 35s. Still a tiny hop, mostly noticeable while under a load like climbing a hill. I pulled the rear driveshaft and had it fully rebuilt with a new carrier bearing as well. Still gots the hop? The truck has a carrier bearing drop bracket but I think it may be insufficient for the lift.
The rear driveshaft still has a slight bend in the middle of where the two driveshaft pieces connect. Are the 2 piece driveshafts on your 8" lifted trucks sitting straight with each other or do they have this bend as well?? I am thinking if I get a bigger drop bracket it may cure this slight hop I have? Lots of lifted trucks where I live but they are dam near all shortbox with 1 piece rear shafts so I haven't been able to find one to compare. By the way, my truck also has pro comp rear traction bars..
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Been having loads of fun with my Excursion. I've completely gone through the rear axle, new Yukon 4.30 ring and pinion and "ALL" new Timken bearings. I set the pinion at 30 inch pounds preload. Back lash is 13 thousands. But now I have a gear whine during acceleration. Slight at first but more noticeable near 50mph. Coasting or decel is quite. But just barely touch the gas pedal and it starts to whine.
I know that the backlash spec is published as 6-10 but other sources state 12-15 thousands. So that's why it's set at 13. Gear pattern looked great to me. In fact most changes I tried had little effect. So is it just normal for a gear set to whine until broken in?? Should I reset the backlash down. I only have about 40 miles on it. But would like to fix before it's wrecks something.
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Vibration in my 2014 Prius v (lowercase for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase) Three. It happens at all speeds but is most noticeable between 68-72 mph. It is felt throughout the car. I am about to go to arbitration with the state (Florida). I had a Lemon Law arbitration hearing with the Toyota sponsored program (NCDS), and the claim was denied. He said he could feel the vibration but it was normal vibration for highway speed. It was quite obvious he knew the Toyota reps too.
Toyota's solution to the issue at the "final fix" attempt was to install new Michelin tires and Road Force them. After getting the car back, I also found they had lowered the PSI in the tires to dampen the vibration but can't prove it. I put the PSI up to what is printed on the door and the vibration came back and got much worse after the tires were rotated.
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The other day while putting on some highway miles on a smooth road I experienced some new vibrations. Not good vibrations, unfortunately. She is an 02 Leg Wagon with 115,000 miles. The vibration was low amplitude and relatively high frequency and was most noticeable at 65 mph or above. Although pronounced at the steering column, the vibration seemed to be throughout the car. Struts? Motor mounts? Imagination? I cant handle the truth?
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I bought 2012 Prius ii around 6 weeks ago. From day one I started noticing vibrations in the steering wheel most noticeable at highway speeds. I can describe this as high frequency vibrations that become very very annoying especially if you drive to work for an hour every day. This car has OEM Bridgestone Ecopia EP 20 tires. I took the car to the dealership twice already, they balanced the tires twice and road force tested it twice. They replaced front tires for me because based on the test results one tire was at 16 lb the other one at 19 lbs.
The new tires are at 8 and 10. They keep on telling me that this is by design and is a characteristic of the vehicle. However the Prius I test drove when I was buying it did not have this problem, otherwise I would never buy it. This vibration happens in any mode and I can even feel it at lower speed now though it is not as noticeable. I had a few people including Prius owners drive my car and everyone feels the vibration. With so many Prius models sold I highly doubt that everyone just accepts it as a feature.
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