Ford Transmission :: 4R70W Tranny Making Shuddering Sound While Downshifting?
Apr 20, 2012
I have a 2002 F150 Super crew with a 5.4 and a 4R70W tranny. The issue I am experiencing is when the truck is driven where the tranny has shifted through all it's gears and cruising at say 55 mph, when depressing the accelerator pedal it either downshifts of something unlocks making a shuddering sound which sounds like when you run over rumble strips on the side of the road. The shuddering only happens for maybe a second at the most. If I am on the accelerator pedal when it up shifts or locks back up it makes the shuddering sound again. The harder the unlocking / locking or downshifting / up shifting happens the harder and longer the shuddering is.
This shuddering happens at the very last transmission function which happens in the transmission during it's normal operation. Other tan this issue the tranny shifts and operates excellent.
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When I am going into or downshifting to second gear in my GLI it makes a thud sound after I let out the clutch. It doesn't always happen and it does it if I just throw it down and if I don't have a perfect rev match. It just started a few days ago.
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I have an '05 Chrysler 300C AWD with approximately 65k miles. The transmission makes a distinct clunking sound when downshifting and I am seeking advice about the cause and solution. For example, I live on a hill and when I slow down at the bottom of the hill the car will downshift and there is a clunking sound. This happens frequently when I am slowing down. In the past year the transmission quit 3x, in all cases the car would start and operate fine but would not go into gear - it would idle but nothing would happen when I put it in gear. The first two times the dealer kept the car for several days and made various adjustments and the car eventually worked again. The third time the Torque Converter was replaced, but the clunking noise continues.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Elantra GLS... Few months back I refueled my tank with degraded fuel (of course i did not know about it and some refueling stations in our country mix oils) and the problems started to arise with my car.. initially it all started with jerks and cracking sounds from the engine.. I then took it to the dealership and cleaned everything except the injectors but the jerking and cracking problem was solved.. but it still had a pickup problem.. whenever i tried to accelerate from 40km/h to above, the transmission seems to give a jolt make a clicking sound when downshifting.. and the acceleration compared to before has degraded.. I took it to the dealership again and their answer was drive it for 300 km more everything will b fine.. but i have driven the car for 1000 km more but the problem is not solving.. I don't know.. my warranty period is over.. in our country they only provide for 12000 km or 1 yr warranty.. now i have checked online and it seems Elantra transmission has bugged a lot of ppl..
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Working on a 2004 E-250 van. [URL] ....
I went through this transmission completely, its back in the van and I get no 1-2 shift.
when I first put it together, I missed the hole in the flex plate for the torque converter stud and started tightening the bell housing bolts down, I heard loud "POP" and realized what I had done. maybe I damaged the pump?
forward and reverse engagement is firm, both give a nice bump when it goes in gear. This tells me the forward clutch is working, but the intermediate clutch is not applying to make second gear happen.
I have done all the easy stuff I can think of, replaced the shift solenoid and put in a new 1-2 accumulator piston. I guess i need to air check the intermediate clutch piston again and make sure its applying. this a 2004 model trans, so it has the new style pump and intermediate piston.
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98 ford expedition 4.6 2wd, 4r70w only reverse works. Here's the low down on what happen.
First off the truck overheated a little then was cooled off and coolant added. about a week later it wouldn't go forward so i told my wife to check the tranny fluid it was low barely on the dipstick, fluid was added and she was on her way. this past weekend the truck sherd all 5 lugnuts on the driver rear wheel. fixed that but went to drive it away and the tranny was slipping a little. added 2 quarts to fill and on the way again. 3 days later went to drive it to my dads shop to find out where the fluid is going, its slips again, added 2 quarts to fill just to drive 6 miles.
It drives fine until i get to my destination we have to stop to open a gate, i put in neutral to roll back to open the gate and no forward gears, only revers. i drive backwards to the shop about 300' and the tranny is empty again. looks like the fluid is going into the radiator which i'm sure caused the overheating a couple weeks back. no water is getting into the tranny. I've changed the filter and fluid and radiator, but still no forward gears only reverse. could there be an easy fix, electrical part maybe or mechanical or do you think its trashed and need replacing.
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I have a 2005 ford expedition with 91000 miles, it has the 5.4 w/ the 4r70w transmission.
For some reason when my truck tries to shift into 4th gear, the RPM's climb to approx. 3000 rpms (meanwhile the truck is not gaining speed) and slowly drops down to about 1000-1500. once the rpms drop down fourth gear eventually engages and I can go about my business as normal as long as I do not let my mph drop too low.
If I turn O/D off, the truck drives perfect, minus not having overdrive.
If I come to a dead stop and put the truck in 2nd gear, with O/D on the truck drives great and it has good engine braking so I am assuming that the band is holding.
I took it to a transmission shop to have some diagnostic checks done, they told me that fourth gear was barely engaging and that they would have to tear apart the transmission to diagnose it further, I told them not to disassemble the transmission.
So I changed out the torque converter (which I assumed was "fourth gear") and changed out all the fluid, the fluid looked a little burnt but there was no debris in the pan but there was some silver material on the tranny pan magnet, and installed a new filter. and the problem still exists.
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I've been making steady progress tearing down the transmission from my 2002 E-150 but have reached a point that I can't continue. The ATSG AODE manual says to "Rotate the shell assembly to align indent with overdrive anchor pin and then Remove forward sun gear." This is the step right after removing the intermediate stub shaft.
Well, the stub shaft came right out but the shell will not rotate, move, or do anything. It certainly cannot be removed. How to get this out?
Background: The trans is being worked on due to a failure that prevented it from being driven and it actually stalled the engine when shifted into any forward gear. It would idle in park or neutral. It would also still allow the engine to run in reverse but the van would still not move. I was able to push it into the garage in neutral.
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I have a 98 expedition with a 4.2 liter 4x4 and what I believe to be a 4r70w transmission (u code on the door sticker)
The original transmission went at 105k miles and was replaced with a new factory ford transmission by a ford dealer 3.5 years ago. The new transmission only has 10k miles on it.
Now the new transmission only has reverse. reverse works like normal but no forward gears. the idle will change when i put if in gear, but will not move, acts like it is in N . There is no strange noises.
It's hard to believe a new trany is shot already, no towing, or off road use.
My question is : is there ANYTHING that can go bad that would cause this? The trany fluid is clean and clear bright red, and no burnt smell.
I want to check everything I can before calling a tow truck to have it looked at. I will have it repaired if needed, but I don't think I want to replace another tranny.
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I just put a rebuilt 4r70w in my '97 expedition and it shifts good but in 4th gear when I let off of the accelerator it starts to shudder until it shifts to 3rd. It acts like it is freewheeling then catches on and off. My thoughts so far is that I don't have the digital transmission range sensor positioned right or the overdrive servo isn't working properly.
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I have a 90 Cutlass Cruiser SL and it is shifting real hard going down to first. Other gears are fine. Checked motor mounts, ok. Also stutters at higher speeds in OD but when I kick it down to drive it quits. She has a lot of miles but I can't afford a new car.
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I have a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer with a 4R70W trans behind a 5.0 liter. Vehicle sat for about 5 months. Went out to put it back on the road, and now the trans seems to be stuck in a forward gear no matter what the selector is in, park, reverse, neutral. Dropped the pan and replaced the filter and replaced what fluid was drained. no difference,.
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Situation is I have a 92 F150 2WD donor truck. 5.8l will be going into my 80 F150 4X4. E4OD transmission is long gone, but I do have a 4R70W from a 96 Explorer. Bolting it together is no problem, but there are differences in the transmission controls. E4OD uses a coast clutch, 4R70W does not. EPC, shift solenoids and TCC are compatible. I do not want to use a 5.0l PCM or add external controllers like the Baumannator.
Question is, can I control the 4R70W with the PCM that comes with the 5.8l?
I'm thinking I can ignore the coast clutch output, maybe tie it to +12 through a resistor if that makes the PCM happy. Baumann's controller appears to work with E4OD's as well as 4R70w's doing exactly this. Baumannator TCS Electronic Transmission Wiring Details....
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I have a 2007 e-150 ford van with only 38,000 miles on it, with i believe a 4r70w transmission. The problem started yesterday. Going in reverse, it would go, but as soon as you take the foot of the gas, it would stop immediately, plus very difficult until it would start rolling, I think this is called engine breaking. Also, in Park, revving the engine, the trans makes a very strange noise, and wants to creep up (move forward) with more gas you give it. neutral does the same thing. When i drive the van, it seems like it switches gears fine, and does not make any noise, but the OD light does not show when you press the button. I did check the fluid, nice and red/pink color no smell at all. No leaks under the car, and the trans is totally dry all around. I do not show a check engine light on. This morning my friend came over with his scanner and hooked it up to my van's plug. It showed no codes of anything wrong. What might be wrong with the trans? My friend seems to think it might be a solenoid problem, I sort of think it might be a shifting problem, but i am no mechanic.
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Its a 2004 f 150 5.4 2 wd auto, I think is a 4r70w, when I first start out in the morning I get a trans malfunction on the dash and the od light flashes, if I shut the truck off and restart it goes away for the rest of the day, when it does this the speedometer doesn't work right, vss?
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Yesterday I had a flashing O/D light come on for about a minute, a quick scan shows a P1747 code indicating a short in the EPC solenoid circuit. Poked around the harness this morning and found this:
I'm guessing transmission fluid shouldn't be there. Do I have to replace the whole internal transmission harness to solve this? How much of a job is that?
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The problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
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I have a 1993 Escort with a manual transmission. It runs great and is pretty dependable. Lately it has been making this wierd noise. It's like growling. Yeah. Wierd. I think my car is angry with me. The growling noise is most noticeable when I downshift. When I stop the noise is gone. Also, when I am accelerating the noise is not present. I hear the growling when I'm coasting in neutral too, though it's not as loud as it is when I downshift. How can I make my car happy again and stop the growling?
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One day I was driving my truck 96 f150 4x4 Eddie Bauer edition and the over drive light started flashing and the truck got jerky going up hills. I got home and hooked my code reader up and (p0708) it said transmission range sensor. I replaced that the next day and drove it around town for about 30 minutes and parked it all seemed to good. But the very next day I started down the road and the transmission was slipping very bad after I turned around after a few hundred feet I barley made it back to my house. I checked my transmission fluid it's full and doesn't smell burnt or anything, I double checked the alignment on the neutral safety switch I just installed and it still in line. So I'm thinking my transmission is going out...
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2000 F150 Lariat, XC, 2WD, 5.4L, 4R70W
I don't know if this all started right after I got back from towing a 3500# lathe + 2000# trailer back from Texas a couple weeks ago or if there might have been some slight symptoms before. I do know that this really got bad a couple days ago and I haven't driven the truck since then.
So, here's what is happening. I noticed a few days before that when I would back out of a parking space, the truck didn't seem to go right into reverse. It was as if it was in neutral, but as I was reaching to jiggle the gearshift lever, it would engage and I could back out just fine. All forward gears, and shifting, have been fine all along, including lockup. I kind of wondered if the shift linkage had somehow moved and was on the edge of being in the right spot, so I was going to have a look at it one evening soon. Then a couple days ago, I went to back out of a parking spot at work and it wouldn't go anywhere.
Just acted like it was in neutral. Put it in drive and it engaged just fine, then back to reverse and nothing for a few moments before it finally engaged. Then, as I was backing up, it acted like you might expect a limited slip that was not slipping to behave. But, that was right before I put it in drive and went home. After I got home, I tried it out some more and found that in reverse, it just wouldn't go anywhere unless the truck rolled a little bit. I don't know if the rolling really had anything to do with it or not, but the driveway is on a slight incline, so it happened, and then the transmission would engage. But, when it did start to back up, even straight, at first it acted like it was under a load, then when it started to move, it bucked really badly. Put it back in drive and all seems fine.
There are no codes set. Trans fluid is full, and doesn't smell or look bad. I've searched for reverse shudder, and other stuff, and there are threads about the TC, about no reverse at all, and a bunch of other stuff, but nothing like this that I found.
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When I am going about 55 my transmission sometimes starts downshifting and then up shifting again for no reason.
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