I have 2001 E350 Van. One quirk.... When I put the van in Reverse, the engine drops to very low RPM and nearly stalls. This does not happen in Drive.
Transmission is out for repair now for other reasons (for a damaged pump). What can cause this near stalling? What do I look for as far as cause & repair?
I rebuilt my 4r100 myself. 1st time I re-installed it, I had no 2nd gear. All other gears worked fine. Drove it less than 2 miles.. slowly..
Took it back out, found i built the Intermediate Clutch wrong. Fixed. At the same time, found a stuck valve in the accumulator VB, Fixed that, at least i think I did. all the valves snapped back under spring pressure.
Put the trans back in, Drove forward, all forward gears work. Drove 10 miles normally, w/ some time spent in all speed ranges. Temps good, outside temp was 73F
M1 = i get good engagement and engine braking
M2 = I get 1st and 2nd, seems normal
OD = Normal shifts, 4th is a little soft, but always was.. TCC lockup good
OD (Cancelled) = Normal 1-2-3, with lockup in 3rd Worked the button multiple times, shifts down, and back up normally.
N = No movement, no creeping.. Normal.. as far as I can tell.
R = No reverse, or is binding in reverse, not sure. worse when up to temp.
P = Normal, no learching or creeping.. No stalling.
The OD light never blinked, so I don't think it is electronic..
Since M1 works and holds with engine braking. L/R clutch and seals are ok. Forward clutch is ok since i have ALL forward gears, No slipping that I can tell. no creeping in Neutral, so the clutches are not fried.. New fluid is still perfect. I'll have to re-pull the pan to see if there is anything on the magnet. I think it could be some stuck valves in the VB also.
A friend just bought a 99 Navigator, with what wikipedia says is the 4R100. Previous owner allegedly rebuilt the trans but used the old converter
It was apparently slipping a bit, or something, when he got it. Then on the way to my place so I can drive it and see what I think, it started making nasty grinding noises once he hit 4th gear. He got off the highway and made it to my place just fine.
Put it reverse to turn around in my driveway and it started the grinding noises again. Forward gears initially had some grinding as well after that, with no forward motion. Now there's no grinding, and the engine free revs in any forward/reverse gear
Fluid is full, still red, but smells nasty.
I don't suppose the three feed bolts above the valve body being loose would cause this? I imagine he's looking at a rebuild, which neither of us really want to do.
Early 2000 F250
Originally the truck would not go into any forward gear, but had reverse all day long. So I had a rebuild kit ordered (new bushings, seals, frictions, steels, a washer and flat bearing kit, a sprak kit, and the od piston)
After rebuilding it, taking my sweet time double checking everything, it will now go into forward gear but not reverse. So I dropped the pan. The small 3 bolt plate was torqued to spec. When I got to the third bolt in the smaller section of the valve body (upper valve body) I heard a click like maybe a valve returned to its place but I'm not sure. I removed the valve body and accumulator and all the valves were free and had tension. When I had it apart the first time one valve stuck for a split second but I never could get it to stick again.
Finding nothing there I uninstalled the tranny and took the barrel apart all the way down to the L/R piston and could not find anything wrong.
After the build and me running the truck for about 10-20 min there was metal on the magnet (part of the reason I took it all back apart) however I could not find anything worn or chewed up. Could have been the tc I prefilled with 2 quarts in stead of filling all the way.
When I initially rebuilt the 4r100 I took apart the pump to replace the bushing and seal but did not take apart the valves. I've heard the pump is directly related to reverse but I'm not sure. Could something gone wrong in the pump when I took it apart? How would I know? If I new all parts of the reverse system I could then test them.
A few days ago, I was trying to back up with my 5th wheel (12,000lbs) and in reverse the transmission was shuddering combined with a noise. So I stopped and since than, the reverse is shuddering when I accelerate.
If I put it in reverse and let it in idle, everything is fine. The forward gears without problem.
Temperature always between 140 and 160, never overheated.
F350 Dually Crew cab, 7.3, 1999, 215,000 km, superchip,
Never overdone it with the power. Fluid level ok, no burned smell at the fluid, still red in color.
I don't know why... It seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problemo, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral.
There was no banging, no clunkin, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened. I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more.
Next I did the obvious and checked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new. I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
I am on a tight budget and working on my back. I am willing to take the tranny out and bring it into town. Personally I think it's electronic but I don't know ...
Why THis thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings?
Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue? I really want to avoid removing the tranny at all costs so if there is something I am missing let me know and if you think just yank it out I will.
my parents have a f350 which now has no reverse. it has a reman sticker on it, 230k on the truck but no idea on mileage on the tranny. shifts 1st through 4th fine, no slip. Tc lockup works just fine. No codes found with my solus scanner. When shifted in reverse it will move back about 2 ft if revved above 2k and then nothing. Am I looking a trans rebuild or is there something I can check and repair with in it the truck?
View 4 RepliesInstalled rebuilt transmission 1 month ago. Have noticed reverse has started to go away. Feels like it is slipping or tires are losing traction with a lot of vibration in the steering wheel.(tires are not slipping that's just the way it feels).. Does it worse when trans is up to temp. I suspect feed bolts but want opinions.(Mark K.) All forward gears seem fine with no issues. I have never been under the pan deep enough to access the feed bolts.
View 3 RepliesI have an 04 Excursion v10 with 170K on odometer. I am having trouble with transmission shifting into 3rd. When I take off it shifts fine to 2nd, but it will not go into 3rd as it should. I can back off throttle and re accelerate a couple of times and then it will shift fine all day long. The OD light is not blinking but I did scan for codes and there is a soft code P1741 - there is no light on dash illuminated. Just wondering if this sounds like a valve body problem or shift solenoid. I am out of town and can't ohm test solenoids til I get home.
View 4 RepliesHad my trans rebuilt in August because of a lagging reverse and loss of shift pressure. Had it rebuilt and beefed up a little and I've had problems getting the trans to be like it was new and seven years ago. I had enough of my head gasket oil leak and loosing my job recently so I bought a trans pressure kit and hooked it up today, all I can say is I now have another problem to get corrected. I'll list my pressures and I took videos so I'll upload them to YouTube and link it that way.
Park - 85psi
oem - 50-65psi
R - 25psi start then slowly rises to 60psi
oem - 70-100psi
N - 85psi
oem - 50-65psi
D - 82psi
oem - 50-65psi
2 - 20psi then slow to 80psi
oem - 50-65psi
1 - 50psi then slow to 100psi
oem - 70-100psi
My WOT pressure at 1-2 and then 2-3 shift is 170psi, I cannot find OEM spec online yet but I believe I was told it should be over 200psi....
My 4R100 transmission just went out in my 2001 X with a 6.8 Triton in it. I am wondering if a transmission from a 5.4 is the same exact thing since it is more common.
View 12 RepliesI am trying to install the pump back into my 4R100 after changing the seals in the pump. When I try to push the pump into its location in the transmission, it will not go in all the way. It is about 3/8" out too far. Shouldn't it bottom out where the paper gasket goes at the rear of the pump without torquing down the bolts? When the pump is out, if I look at the coast clutch, it is not even level with the housing where the pump should bottom out to. It sticks up about 1/16". Add that together with the part of the pump assembly that sticks out in the back and I get about 3/8" total which is how much the whole pump assembly is from bottoming out. I took out the coast clutch assembly and did not see anything binding. It felt like it bottomed out where it should. It felt like it was seated correctly.
I don't want to just torque everything down and ruin something. Is the coast clutch supposed to compress some during assembly/installation of the pump? If so, would I expect it to compress about 3/8"? Also, I can turn the input shaft freely when the pump is out. Under 'normal' circumstances, if it was put together correctly, should I still be able to turn the input shaft by hand, or is there too much resistance with all of the clutches and everything?
How to install a temperature gauge for the 4R100 transmission in my 1998E350 w/ V10 engine Van? what's the normal temperature for this transmission?
View 8 RepliesI have a e99 7.3. had the transmission rebuilt a couple weeks ago by a local shop. have been getting some hard shifts between 2nd/3rd when lightly accelerating. Took it back already but they couldn't find anything. I am planning on taking it back again but what it is so it gets fixed right. What is causing this or what it might be? Should I be worried about having this shop try and fix this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 7.3 with 308657 miles on it. After changing the trans fluid, filter and checking the center support bolts for proper torque I'm still having the same problem as before. When put in drive it doesn't seem to want to pull itself much until I throttle up to 1500rpm or so, then it grabs and goes. It acts similar in reverse but the rpms aren't as high. There was a coating of something inside the pan and on most of the parts along with the magnet being covered. What to look at to narrow down my problem?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 E-350 Van that has a 7.3 and 4R100 in it. The OD light has been blinking, but I can not read any codes. I have tried multiple scanners (Snap On Solus, AutoEnginuity software on laptop with the Ford enhanced package, just to name a couple), and none of them are coming up with any codes for the transmission.
I have a TS 6 position tuner and monitor on the motor, and while going up thru the gears, it appears that the transmission shifts from 1st to 2nd fine, and it feels fine. The 2nd to 3rd shift tho is another story. It seems that the transmission is going into 3rd and immediately locking the converter. Depending on which power setting it is on, it is violent enough to chirp the tires (while it sounds fun, it cant be good). It shifts into and holds overdrive fine.
Today I was 160 miles into a 250 mile drive and things were going well. I was cruising at about 75-80mph and approaching a fairly long hill of moderate grade. As I climbed the hill, my rpm was dropping, as expected before a downshift. The downshift never happened. I kept pushing more pedal and eventually, at maybe 40mph, it downshifted, but still no power. Engine being held at around 2500 rpm. No power no matter how much I pushed. Down hill I was able to resume speed but as soon as the next uphill, same thing, no power, no shift. Pulled over, it was raining hard. Checked for wet fuse box, control modules, pcm, wiring harnesses, everything dry. Checked all fuses. Disconnected battery in hopes of forcing reset, no change.
Checked trans fluid, it was clean, red, full, and unburnt. No visual wires broken or chafed. No odd smells or sounds. Nothing noticeably hot. Truck hits 45mph max on flat ground. I limped it this way for 20 miles. If I push my foot to the floor to really force a downshift, engine will rev freely up to redline with no resistance once it downshifts. If I let the rpm drop down, it will catch and lock back in. Now when I come to a stop the truck has a very lopey and rough idle and will stall once I come to a complete stop. It will stay running if I give it gas. In neutral and park the engine still has a lopey idle and is rough. Will possibly die at times. Sounds smooth and perfect when you rev it in neutral or park. Reacts as it should with no hesitations. No check engine light and no flashing OD light. Will shift into all gears, just moves through them with no power. Let truck sit for 3 hours, issue remains.
I have a f150 2002 with a 5.4 and 4r100 (yes im sure), and a week ago my torque converter started getting stock (locked) when i came to a stop making the engine stall (it took a couple of minutes before my engine got warmed up). I checked the codes and got 0740 and 0743 which relate to the tcc solenoid malfunctioning. To make sure the tc wasn't physically stuck y cut the purple wire that signals the solenoid to lock the converter, the truck ran fine and as expected the tcc never locked.
So I thought I narrowed it down to the solenoid pack, which I bought (300 bucks ouch) and changed it yesterday. Today again the same thing started happening and the truck is throwing me the same codes, so I am a bit frustrated. I don't wanna go ahead and buy a torque converter without knowing the real cause, what could it be? I didn't see any melted wires down there but could my long tubes be shorting that wire out randomly in an unseen place? or could my tc be bad?
I recently purchased a 2000 Expy 5.4 with AWD. The issue is when in Drive it is only in 1st. I can manually shift it to 2nd. If I get it up to 40 and shift it back to drive it just reeves if I am going 30 and do that it throws it back in 1st.
So I searched a lot of the forums, I asked the previous owner some questions. Been 80 to 90k since the last tranny fluid change. Said he tighten the shift cable when it first noticed it was not shifting right and then it started to shift hard (squeal the tires). I ordered a rebuilt valve body assembly, came with plate, solenoid, accumulator and valve body. The supplier indicated this was the fix for my symptoms.
I dropped the pan. A bolt from the solenoid was in the pan. No magnet. The oil smelled more like axle grease, but did not really see signs of metal sludge in the pan or filter. Dropped all the components, yeah that accumulator plate is not for the faint of heart, I found all the rubber fortunately.
I found a couple decent pictures showing where they go in the tranny, the plate pictures were missing to many of the 'other' holes to use that as a guide. I saw a comment to use petroleum jelly to hold in place, I used that trick and it seemed to work. Put everything back together, torqued all the valve body nuts and bolts to 8 ft lbs, figure that is approx. 96 inch lbs and in the 80 -100 recommendation, new filter. Added 8 qts of oil back into the pan.
With it still on the stands started it up and went thru the gears down and up stopping in each one. Set it down and went for a test drive. Same exact behavior. Drive is first, can manually upshift to 2nd, put back in Drive at a slow speed and it goes to first, at a high speed it acts like it is in neutral. What I missed, do I have a clutch problem, or ?????
I've got a 2001 E350 van with the 5.4 triton and 4R100 transmission in it. Has about 130,000 miles on it. I was doing some work under it a couple of days ago and noticed a rattling noise coming from the front of the bell housing. I can't hear it sitting in the vehicle or standing next to it but it's pretty scary sounding with my face under the inspection cover.
Shifting is smooth no noticeable problems there. Tranny fluid looks good, not burnt. After further investigation the noise is only present in park or neutral. In drive it goes away. In park it takes a few minutes of warm up for it to begin starting as a light tap tap, eventually working its way up to a clatter once warm. I know the 99 4r100 had some TC issues that sounded like this. It sounds like it's in front of the TC so I'm thinking the flex plate maybe?
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I have a 4R100 diesel trans. with a missing chunk by the inspection area. Is it still safe to run?. The aluminum there is quite thin....