Ford Transmission :: 2005 - Started Whining While Driving Or Sitting Still?
Sep 8, 2012
have this in the 04-08 f150 section but I think it is transmission related now.
My F150 has started whining while driving down the road or sitting still. It gets louder as the RPMs increase. I have also noticed that the transmission has started taking longer / slipping going into 2nd gear. I also smelled the transmission fluid and it has an "odd" odor to it. It smells almost burnt but the fluid color looks good. Could the transmission going out cause this noise? BTW, I have an edge tuner and have the transmission settings maxed out at 25 on the shift firmness. Could this cause an issue? Here is a vid of the noise.
05 f150
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My F150 has started whining while driving down the road or sitting still. It gets louder as the RPMs increase. I have also noticed that the transmission has started taking longer / slipping going into 2nd gear. I also smelled the transmission fluid and it has an "odd" odor to it. Could the transmission going out cause this noise?
Here is a vid of the noise : 05 f150 - YouTube....
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I have a 89 f-150 xlt with what i believe is the m5od (4 speed with O.D) transmission and the 5.0 motor, the trans has been whining since I've owned the truck and it started popping out of reverse on me a couple months ago, now i have to slam it into gear to make it go anywhere even when I am going down the road! The clutch is fine but the trans is hanging up, anyways i have a granny gear transmission a buddy of mine gave me out of an 85 f150 that had the inline 6 if i take the bell housing off of my transmission can i put the internal slave cylinder on that transmission? Will it work or will i have to find a way to put an external slave cylinder on it?
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Why my transmission is acting up. its recently started humming/whining when accelerating. it sort of sounds like the power steering when you turn your wheel to far on an older car. it recently started happening (3-4months ago) and I am not to happy since its pretty much a year old. Is it covered under the limited lifetime warranty? it has 28000 miles on it, v6, automatic, and its the xle version.
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2005 Sport Trac 4x4... So, my fiance purchased this new off the floor before i met her (or else she wouldn't have bought it). Had a motor issue which required a new motor after 90k miles.. Anyways, while driving on a normal road, i dropped the rear window and hear this whining noise. Checked the transmission fluid and it was a little low, nothing major. Topped it off with Mercon V... No effect. Where do i look next. It does not have a tow package. Do i check the transfer case, or rear differential?.I am thinking differential because the transfer case is more upfront to where the noise is. you cant hear it with front windows down. Only the rear sliding window or rear passenger's windows.
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I posted awhile back about a loss of power and hard shifting in the transmission. I thought I had it fixed, well I kind of did...... Replaced the IWE that had locked in solid. I replaced both, added some transmission fluid, new front brakes, and a new belt back in July/August. Truck was fine for a few thousand......
Well it's back. Now I have a noticeable whine in the cab. I haven't pin pointed it yet. It is only audible when the truck is running from 35-50 mph. It is not RPM dependent, it doesn't change when I take it in or out of four wheel drive. It isn't there when the truck isn't moving.
The truck has 61,000 on it. I bought it with 35,000 on it because I wanted a vehicle that wouldn't nickel and dime me. Something I could climb in and not worry about making home.
Well here I am less than 30,000 miles later and I have had issues with the fuel controller under the bed, brake calipers sticking, IWE's, new shocks, broken front coil spring, recall for the airbag, tie rods, ball joints, power window regulator, and now what appears to be a transmission.
I come from a long line of "FORD" guys, but I am seriously considering something else. This 04-08 model has to be one of the worst pickups ever built by ford.
Are the newer ones any better? Other than routine maintenance a vehicle shouldn't have to be touched before 61,000.
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I am having problems with my 97 F150 6cyl. A couple of months ago, I noticed the truck after sitting for a few days without being started would not crank. After some trial and error, I found that turning the ignition switch on and off several times did the trick and the truck would crank right up. I was thinking this might be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue but, I'm not sure.
A couple of days ago I was going to drive the truck and did the ignition switch deal as usual and the truck cranked up but, there shortly after while just idling the motor died. I have tried and tried to crank it and it want start back. After thinking on it, I don't know if this is a fuel problem or not, or maybe even the ignition box.
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So i have a 2005 Sonata GLS and it has been giving me issues. A week or so ago, the 'check engine' came on so I took it to the shop to have it fix. Problem fix, no more light popping up. Now two days ago, the car all of a sudden started stalling and hesitating while I was driving. I kept pressing the gas and the car will accelerate to 40 before slowing down to 20 and the acceleration will then drop as well. I had a mechanic look at the issue and he said it was the throttle position sensor. He changed the sensor and its still acting up. He said to buy the carburetor cleaner and it worked fine for a hour until we drove it again. The problem is still not fix.
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This is an update on an older post I took the truck to a repair shop and had it checked. They said 5 of the 8 glow plugs were not working and #3 injector was bad.. They replaced all glow plugs and the #3 injector I brought the truck home and parked it about a 20 mile drive home running fine when I got home. When I started it the next afternoon it was missing just as bad as before the work was done. After it gets warm runs ok best I can tell. What it could be? If the orings on the injectors are bad would it run ok when it warms up? Going to take it back to shop but not sure they know whats wrong by the way the mechanic talked. What to do next they have checked the wiring or at least said he did. It does ok when the oil warms up new hpop and I have checked the oil level and it was ok the hpop and eng. What else to do?
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My 2004 Accent transmission with 145k miles all of a sudden started slipping while driving. It would be fine until i needed to slow down and then step on the gas again. It wouldn't catch right and it would slip. At first the pull of the slip was very slight and at times now it is very rough. My check engine light does not turn on when it slips slightly, but only when it has a really rough slip will it turn on. I had it checked at the local advance auto parts and i was told it has a 4th gear ratio that is off. The only thing that confuses me is that when i turn the car off and on it resets and works fine, that is until it slips again. If i drive carefully it usually wont slip. Could it be an electrical problem?? I changed my speed sensor when my car had about 132k miles because it went out, i replaced my ignition coils, new spark plugs/wires, tranny oil change, and filter change.
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1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
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I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6L Automatic.
Yesterday it started acting up on the freeway. I was driving about 50 during traffic hour when it started revving. I got off the freeway and moved to 35mph on surface streets, the revving continued at lower speeds but much worse (4-5k rpms going 10-15mpg). Doesn't seem to do it in idle or park. If i shut the car off it'll drive fine for a while then start acting up but when I was driving, after awhile, it did return to normal.
What could cause the problem? TPS? Transmission? Sensor of some sort?
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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When my Excursion sits for a while, the transmission slips a lot at first till it builds up pressure. Is this a problem? It seem fine other than this.
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I have a 2011 F250 that I bought new. It's been the best truck I have ever owned. It now has about 105K miles (170k Kms). Lately the turbo has started whining at low speeds and idling. Is this something I should be concerned about. I talked to a diesel mechanic (not Ford) and he said this is fairly common in some vehicles.
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I have a 2005 STX with the 4.6L, 4WD, AT.
The engine has started to make a loud whining sound recently. I replaced the belt and tensioner since it was original and had 93,000 miles on it. The sound is still there.
The sound increases with rpm but doesn't change when you turn the steering wheel.
The engine starts and runs smoothly with plenty of power.
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I have a 2011 Ranger with four wheel drive, a manual transmission and 34000 miles on it. The transmission gets very stiff after sitting for a while. At the worst I can't get it into first or reverse at all without hunting through all the other gears to find one it will shift into to get things moving. Is this normal for this vehicle or should I worry?
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I have a 2005 Escape with about 95k miles that won't crank after sitting in the sun on a very warm day. It's intermittent and might be OK for weeks.
This isn't when the engine is hot - it's when the air temperature is in the 80's+ and the black car is parked in the sun. This is the 1st warm weather we've had in several weeks and right on que, it didn't start this afternoon.
The battery is good and there is not voltage to the solenoid when cranking. I've used 2 sets of keys and replaced the PAT sensor ring hoping it was something anti-theft related.
Today, I switched out each under-hood relay (moved them to other locations) and still nada. Luckily today it's DOA in my driveway but may start later.
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I have a 2005 Elantra where my transmission went. The tranny had a harsh upshifting when driving, also had it in the shop four times because it was hard to get into Park or Drive. Shop said they never could find a problem.. Did some checking on internet, the Accent and Elantra shared the same transmission I believe, and found a TSB describing trans axle solenoid problems from 1999 to 2006. I am going to fight this as I don't think I should have to pay for a factory defect.
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I have a 2011 F-150 with the v-6 automatic. The truck has just under 45,000 miles on it. Couple of times I have started it up in the morning to head to work, and when I put it in gear(fwd or reverse) it seems to slip at first. It does it just the one time, then it will be fine. It only happens in the morning after sitting for the night and when it is cooler(Arizona here so hasn't gotten much cooler than the 50's at night so far). I need to take the truck in for another issue, but thought I would ask on here first.
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I have a 1997 Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC, 110,000 miles. When I start it in the morning or after sitting for a few hours, the idle is very rough. Most of the time it wont even stay running. My first thought was a vacuum leak. I found four leaks and repaired them, including the EGR valve control and the EGR solenoid. One stem on each was broken off. I bought these parts from the dealer and then tested the vacuum, which I now have vacuum pressure. The check engine light is on and doesnt read the "system evap emission control pressure sensor low" (vacuum leak) anymore, but it now reads "system too lean (bank 1) and system too lean (bank 2). I cleaned the IAC valve and have ran several bottles of injector cleaner through. My mechanic thinks it is the IAC, but when you disconnect the plug on it, the car will barely idle, so it must be working at least a little. I have seen suggestions for a fuel filter, which I am going to replace, but I am really lost here.
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