Reverse works great....engine revs and barely pulls in drive. Not sure yet if it actually changes gears. I am planning on replacing tranny. I have a few questions :
1: Could it be something more simple like a selonoid or ???
2: What all trannys will fit? this is the 2wd 5.4 liter xlt ...
Just made it back from out of state hunting trip,driving to get new tires. And heard a bump sound , Driving about 40 mph and tack jumped from around 1800 rpm to 4500. Engine' smooth and parameters good . However will drive in low and 2 nd gear approximate 25 mph. When select drive will not shift into high without slipping an rapid rpm increase. Currently 135k service record's and general appearance were well maintained....
View 2 RepliesIn Drive the engine revs but wont accelerate more than 25mph. D1, D2, and reverse work as usual. Fluid is dark, but no debris, no burnt smell. Should I change the fluid & filter? The shop said that would make it worse.
View 1 RepliesI have a 05 expedition and when it goes to shift from 2nd to 3rd the engine revs up and shifts hard all other gears shift fine. What can this issue be and is it a easy fix?
View 1 RepliesRecently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesThis is my first experience with auto tranny trouble so I'm a bit out of my depth. It started a few days ago. When you put it in gear and step on the gas, the engine revs, but no forward movement. If you keep giving it gas and rev it up, it will eventually grab and off you go. This happened around town after I took it to work last week when I went out for lunch.
When I drove it home, it slipped in and out several times in town, then by the time I got out of town (maybe 5 minutes driving) it evened out and didn't slip the rest of the way home (a 45 min drive). My assumption is that once it warmed up a bit that stopped the slipping. I checked the transmission fluid when I got back from lunch, and it was a little high. I drove it again today a week later and same thing only I didn't drive it long enough for it to warm up and stop slipping like it did the other day.
Other details: The truck is a 4x4, extended cab, v6 Ford Ranger with about 175k miles on it. I've had it about 1 1/2 years and its performed great up till now.
My 2005 FX4 is throwing the codes PO722 and PO720. When it threw these codes it barely pulls in reverse. Are the codes the cause of the reverse problem?
View 9 RepliesI have a '05 V8 T-Reg (loaded with Air, NAV, and the like) and have the local VW dealership perplexed. The problem is when I am going up a hill and slowing down. While downshifting the T-Reg lunges forward while moving from 4th to 3rd gear or 3rd to 2nd. The car jumps forward and the engine revs. If I don't have my foot on the brake I would smack into the person in front of me.
Initially, the dealership (Day Imports, Monroeville, PA) determined it was the valve stems and replaced them (after keeping the car for 4 days). The problem came back and now (going on 6 days in the shop) they cannot find a solution. They tried a new shifter plate but the problem still exists. I'm waiting to hear back from the service manager about what VWoA should try next.
The T-Reg has 72k miles on it...
I have a 2000 ranger 3.0,automatic 4x4.The truck will not go forward in drive 1 or in drive. If I start out in second gear it will shift through the other gears. What the problem is?
View 6 RepliesMy truck is a 2004 (new body style) 4.6L XL Supercab 4x4, trans code A, which I believe is the 4R75W transmission. I bought the truck used last year with 110k miles on it and it still only has 115k now. I think the problem with the trans was there when I bought it (it's highly intermittent) which may be the reason why the PO traded it in, because the truck is in excellent shape and has clearly been well cared for in all other regards.
The problem only occurs after having let up off the accelerator pedal for a while and coasting, then getting back on the gas without coming to a complete stop, like one might do coasting downhill or coming up to a light that turns green before you come to a stop. When that happens it feels like the transmission has shifted into neutral and the engine revs up freely for a second or two and then suddenly engages and clunks / slams into drive. This doesn't happen every time that I attempt to reproduce it, and it went for the entire summer without doing it once. But, now that winter is coming on in New England I find that it is doing it again once in a while. The problem seems to happen whether overdrive is engaged or not.
I've checked fluid level and condition and both are fine. Nice bright red color and no burnt smell. The transmission works well in all other ways except for this one issue. With the exception of this problem it seems to be engaging, driving and shifting perfectly, with no slipping, even when giving it a good romp, with or without 4x4 engaged, or even carrying a heavy load, causes no problems.
To me, this seems like a control problem of some kind, doesn't it? If it was mechanical or hydraulic I wouldn't expect it to only occur after coasting for a while.
I recently bought my '05 Elantra from a small dealership and I'm starting to see a problem with it. If I shift into reverse and then go back into drive, the car doesn't go forward at all. I have to mess with the gear shift a bit to get the car moving. I'm pretty sure it's a bad linkage. The dealership I bought it from said it desperately needed motor mounts when they got it so they replaced 2 of them. I'm sure the problems are related. I can't find any information on replacing it myself though.
View 1 RepliesI think I added too much oil to my integra. When I start it up the tail pipe blows out smoke and the car barely revs. Will this damage anything? How many quarts and what kind should I use for my next oil change?
View 9 RepliesI just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Nissan Altima that I just barely got and it has started to show signs of trouble.
Sometimes when I put the vehicle into drive and step on the gas the car will not move and instead the engine will rev.I'll put the car back into park and then into drive and it'll work fine.
I checked the ATF, which was incredibly low and refilled it. The engine oil was also very low, which was refilled. The problem still persists. So I decided to add a bottle of Fuel Injector Cleaner to the gas tank.
I took the car for a short drive and nothing happened aside from the fact that the Check Engine light now comes on and off. The car also idles between 1000-1500 rpms.
I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and when I first got it, it revved too high well now it revs too low, when im at a stop light it revs at just barely above 0 RPMS and the engine will cut off. it just ate shutting off yesterday. I took my car back to the dealership to get it fixed and they said "there's nothing wrong with it" well now I just passed my warranty and it starts shutting off on me.
View 2 RepliesI just got my Golf 7 (1.4 TSI 122PS 7Speed Dry DSG). I love the car but I have an issue making my driving a lot more stressful in tight traffic and parking. I just wanted to ask if this is an issue specific to my car or something happens to all Golfs.
When trying to take off with a very little throttle pressure, car starts to pull away very slowly at the beginning and then it jumps forward in a much higher speed even though I do not increase the throttle pressure. It even happens if I lift my foot from the throttle before jump happens. Because of this I cannot make very slow maneuvers because I cannot simply go very slowly and consistently. I am a complete rookie when it comes to cars but it feels like turbo coming into play after a certain engine rpm causing this. For the record this happens both in D or R.
I know I can creep using the brake but I heard that is very bad for dsg so I am trying not to do that. Also I cannot do that while Auto hold is on and I don't want to turn it off since it is a very handy feature in stop & go traffic which is usual in where I live. Also my steering wheel does not center itself automatically so I am doing it manually.
I recently purchased a 2005 Camry XLE V6 (100K miles). Its in great condition and no issues except I am observing this:
-> When I come to stop (like at a stop sign), just before coming to complete stop, there is a slight forward jerk. When I come to stop slowly and smoothly, there is no problem.
the faster I come to stop the more severe is the jerk. I tried to search for answers on the web, one possibility is bad solenoid in the transmission.
Before I got my GX someone posted they had to press harder on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving forward. My truck idles at 550 rpm and the vehicle will barely move forward even with NO brake. Just resting my foot on the brake will hold it easily.
View 6 RepliesSo my wife was driving my EX today... she heard a noise and then the truck would barely drive. I went and checked it and i lost the exhaust pipe between cat and muffler (right below the second row) I also found 4 bared wires that had been ripped apart.
Exhaust broke loose and wrapped around drive shaft and ripped the sensor wires apart and threw the pipe somewhere? So I am assuming that there was an oxygen sensor located on that portion of exhaust that is now lost.
I thought no big deal I will just drive to a muffler shop and get it fixed, but the Ex would barely move. So i guess i will have to tow it, how I can get the truck to run missing the pipe and sensor.
My questions are:
Is that an oxygen sensor that goes into the exhaust pipe?
If so, can i just buy the sensor and pigtail, wire it and then drive to get exhaust fixed?
Is there a way for me to drive it without wiring in a new sensor instead of paying for a tow?
2004 6.8L limited....
So this doesn't begin until I put it into a forward gear, but after about 30 sec of smooth running, I will get a sudden momentary loss of power, then a surge, which repeats and intensifies as the van lurches forward until the engine finally stalls. Throwing it into N in the middle doesn't work. Babying the gas had no effect. It happened both at higher(2.5-3K) revs and at lower (.8-1.5k).
After killing the battery starting and restarting it just to keep it moving, I had it jumped, at which point I sat with it in P for 20 min to charge the battery and in all that time, it ran fine. I'd love to hear some possible diagnoses. Don't know if I should have it towed from where it's sitting, or try to drive it to the shop, or if it's something I can repair myself (think 1-star difficulty).
My mother has a 2003 Ford Taurus. I really hate this car, but she wants it fixed. It sputters in drive when your taking off and it barely goes up hills. There is no sputter in idle or park. I put on new fuel filter and spark plugs on it and cleaned the idle air control. What should I try next?
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